First Headspacing New Barrel

[Pirate69]

I have two 308 Winchester barrels that I am installing on 98 Mauser actions. Started the project today. Got a good lesson on the first install as I overshot and ended up with more headspace than I wanted. Knew what to look for with the second barrel and had the bolt handle bottom out after one additional reamer rotation from prior check. NoGo gauge stands the handle up proud.

Now to fix my mistake. I guess I need to lathe off the same amount from the ring touching the action face as I take off the end of the barrel. Is there anyone in the eastern part of North Carolina that would be willing to help me straight out this problem?

[LAGS]

Have you checked the first barrels headspacing with a " Field Gage" to see how truely far it is Over Headspaced ?
What you are going thru is why I try to initially set up my headspacing on my own rifles to be Snug , but still barely close on a Go Gage.

If the bolt wont close on a field gage, then it will still be safe.
Not Great, but Safe.
But if it doesn't close on a field gage, you can try , removing the barrel, then Re-torquing it.
The new Crush might be just enough fo get it to work on the No-Go gage.
But dont overdo it.

[Pirate69]

I have the Go and NoGo gauges only. Thanks for the suggestion.

[LAGS]

Since you don't have a Field Gage, You could do the old , "Put a Layer or two of Scotch Tape" on the back end of your No - Go gage, and find out what a Rough Guestimation is on the depth or headspace clearance.
I often do things like that while I am waiting for the new gage to be shipped to me.
At least that will give you a better idea of how much you overcut your chamber, and will help you decide on the corrective action needed.
I take it you do not have a Depth Micrometer to check the chamber headspacing with the barrel off and using the headspace gages that you have ?
Do not use a dial caliper, they are just not accurate enough for this kind of work.
Question ;
Did you Lap your bolt lugs , before you tried to headspace the barrel ? ( I take it you are rebarreling an old mil surp action .)

[Pirate69]

LAGS,
Yes I did lap the lugs and got about 80%-85% contact. Worked out nice. I have already placed tape on the back of the NoGo gauge and it indicated, "You Dummy". I am going to have to find someone in this area that has a lathe and correct. Well, it least I got the second barrel right. The first barrel was a cheap barrel. The second was a Shilen. Thank God for small favors. And thank you for your continued suggestions as to how to help me.

[LAGS]

@ Pirate69
There are no Cheap Barrels.
There are only "More Expensive Barrels"
Some of my best shooters where re-barreld with $39.00 barrels.
They probably wont last as long as some of my More Expensive barrels because you really do get what you pay for.

Good luck , and I hope you find someone with a lathe that lives close.

[Bodean98]

Newb here.

You might give this fellow a try:



Bolt & Barrel Gunsmithing
Bolt & Barrel Gunsmithing, LLC
3907 Hwy 72-221 E
Greenwood, SC 29649
864-993-2522
clemsongunsmith@hotmail.comwww.boltandbarrel.com (http://www.boltandbarrel.com/)


I don't know where Greenwood, SC. is in relation to you but it's worth a try. He is a respected member of another forum I frequent and comes highly recommended. He is well versed with Mausers as well.

[dave 45-90]

This is what you want....Mauser barrels face at 2 points...I wouldn't be without this for a rebuild...
http://www.gunbooks.com/mauser.html

[Pirate69]

Thanks to everyone for your input. I went by a local machine shop and they took off a few thousandths at the appropiate places. This allowed me to start over and get it right the second time. I was doing one light turn at a time, at the end, the second time around. Stopped just as the bolt totally closed on the Go gauge. Major room on the NOGO gauge. Threw it into an old stock and fired it. Everything looks fine. Seeing some light chamber marks on the extracted cases. May need to polish the chamber some. Will monitor and see. Any easy ways to polish a chamber?

[Der Gebirgsjager]

The way I do mine is with an appropriate length wooden dowel (about 18 inches in length) with a slot cut in one end. Take a small piece of 400 grit w/d abrasive paper (about 2-3 in. square) and fold it double and slide it into the slot so it looks like airplane wings. Take a cleaning rod with a cleaning patch and dip it into some clean kerosene and swab the chamber. Chuck the unslotted end of the wood dowel into an electric hand drill, dip the abrasive paper into the kerosene, insert the paper end of the dowel into the chamber and run the drill slowly at first with a little forward pressure to allow the paper to wrap around the dowel and enter the chamber, then run at moderate speed. It doesn't take very much or very long, maybe 30 seconds. Work the paper backward and forward a little while the drill is running. Remove the dowel and clean the chamber. This polishes the portion of the chamber that holds the body of the case. Don't try to force the running paper through the taper and into the neck.

[sprinkintime]

I have the Go and NoGo gauges only. Thanks for the suggestion.

Is a max gauge the same as a field gauge or is it a no-go? I have a Wheeler Eng. .223 Max Headspace Gage and just wondering? Thanks Sprink

[Pirate69]

Is a max gauge the same as a field gauge or is it a no-go? I have a Wheeler Eng. .223 Max Headspace Gage and just wondering? Thanks Sprink

Not sure if I can answer your question. I am familiar with three gauges per caliber: GO, NOGO and Field. Not sure where yours would fall.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I'd phone Wheeler and ask.

[deltaenterprizes]

You are right about removing metal from the barrel where it touches the receiver the same amount as you remove from the chamber end to correct the headspace, I have had to do the same thing on a couple barrels I have done,
Usually .010'' fixes the problem.

[Pirate69]

After a good cleaning after the first firing, the scratches disappeared. Much not have cleared out the cuttings good in the beginning. Happy now.