Another clone...

[shoot-n-lead]

I have to admit, I like Ruger single action's a lot, but I am a real sucker for the Colt clones. I have a few and I am a threat to gobble up another when I run across a good deal on one. I love the size and shootability of these guns...and the value that the Italians represent. I ran across this one on another forum the other day and just could not resist it. It is a Cimarron Mod P in 44 special...it had been shot 50rds and is flawless. Can't wait to put some through it, myself

.126796

[35 Whelen]

I have that same revolver, same caliber, only a 5 1/2". All I really did to it was have the rear sight groove opened to 1/8" and replaced the front sight with a full thickness blade. Talk about a shooter! Enjoy it and let us know how it shoots!

35W

[dragonrider]

I might have to begin a search for one of those just to see one in the flesh so to speak.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

And yours has the superior black powder frame style cylinder base pin retaining screw rather than that ridiculous spring loaded two piece cross bolt style.

Very nice. I load and shoot lots of Lyman 429667 ww sized .431" lubed with Alox over 5.2 gr of Bullseye for 800 fps.

Once you settle on your load don't be shy about filing the front sight down to zero your point of impact. These guns often come hitting low and left, that's good. They are easy to zero. It's your gun, make it right for you. Shoot it the way you shoot it at targets the distance you want, either one handed or two. When filing sights, take your time. Do it at the range. Use a flat file and lay it on a flat surface. Turn your gun up side down and stroke the gun's front sight along the file stationary on the flat surface. Use a stack of targets or something under the rear sight to equal the height of the file on the flat surface. File and shoot, file and shoot until you are zeroed. It's easy. Don't plan on zeroing it in one day. A wise old gunsmith once told me; sometimes you just have to walk away. It's easy to take metal off, it's hard to put it back on. Once you are zeroed your front sight will probably be a little bit too wide for the rear sight notch, this is good. File the side of the front sight to zero for windage if the point of impact is close enough to not necessitate sending the gun in to a gunsmith to turn the barrel to zero for windage.

[35 Whelen]

Some things of which to be aware:

The cylinder pin set screw is a pain in the butt. I left the knurled thumb screw in mine because I Carr the revolver alot in the field but don't want to carry a screwdriver with me should I need to remove the cylinder. If you leave the thumb screw in check it habitually, same goes for the ejector housing screw.
The bullseye ejector piece is likewise less than desirable if you carry the revolver in a tight holster as it drags when drawing the revolver. I replaced my ejector rod with one from a pre-war model.
Regulating the sights isn't voodoo, but can be a problem with the tiny sights. If you have to remove too much from the front blade you're going to get down in to the thick portion which will cause the front sight to really fill up the little V notch rear sight. Even more reason to have that rear sight opened up!

35W

[shoot-n-lead]

Thanks guys.

I have a good bit of experience with theses guns and I have found that the advice that you have given, is spot on. As I said, I have a soft spot for these guns...I just like the way they handle. I like all of my Ruger's, but the colt type guns appeal to me on a different level. I have found that it takes SEVERAL sessions to get the sights right for me...just do a little at the time until I get them right. I was kind of thinking about going outside the box for a load for this gun as I have others that I use the standard type loads in. I was thinking about trying a little lighter bullet in this just to see how it shoots it. I wish that I had a light bullet mold so that I could give them a try. If y'all have any suggestions...I am all ears and this is an open platform as of right now...has not had a file put to it.

[bedbugbilly]

Very nice! I wouldn't have let that get away either!

I have several Ubertis - my last purchase was a 357 Bisley - they are certainly well made and I enjoy shooting mine a lot. Mine has the two step cylinder pin - while some consider them a "pain" - that can easily be fixed by shortening the cylinder pin so when in the outer slow, it doesn't keep the hammer from dropping all the way.

I was looking at the SAA today - I like the 4 3/4" barrel - just trying to decide on 44 spl. or 45 Colt. Enjoy and have fun - looks like a great revolver!

[Silver Jack Hammer]

I use the RCBS 210 gr boolit mold for light .44 Special. I bought this one because it has a pronounced crimp and my son uses this boolit in the '73 rifle with a tubular magazine. It works well for us.

Also, opening up the rear notch is a different animal than filing the front sight. The front sight is made of soft metal which is easy for the operator to zero. The color case hardened steel is a much harder steel. I wouldn't try to file it. I was in USFA and watched their process of opening up the rear notch, which is way above what I see my local gunsmiths able to do. I've got an order into a national gunsmith to open up a rear notch on a SAA, it's 14 month waiting period.

[shoot-n-lead]

I use the RCBS 210 gr boolit mold for light .44 Special. I bought this one because it has a pronounced crimp and my son uses this boolit in the '73 rifle with a tubular magazine. It works well for us.

Also, opening up the rear notch is a different animal than filing the front sight. The front sight is made of soft metal which is easy for the operator to zero. The color case hardened steel is a much harder steel. I wouldn't try to file it. I was in USFA and watched their process of opening up the rear notch, which is way above what I see my local gunsmiths able to do. I've got an order into a national gunsmith to open up a rear notch on a SAA, it's 14 month waiting period.

I use safe edge files to protect the finish in the event of an errant stroke and with slow deliberate strokes, the rear opens without a lot of hassle...and it really doesn't take much to make a difference.

[w5pv]

I like the clones,but I very seldom get past the minium starting load with any load that I shoot.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

The steel of the frame is so very much harder at the rear notch than the steel for the front sight. I have a high loading gate on a Colt SAA so I tried to file it down a little. After a lot of effort there wasn't even a mark on it. I was tired and the steel just laughed at me. I've never filed on the frame of an Italian but I'm sure there would be a difference from the Colt. A local gunsmith told me he cut the barrel off an Italian gun and was amazed how easy it went compared to a Colt. If the Italian frames are truly color cased then they would be harder than the barrel. My experience is limited to the Colt. The frames I saw USFA cutting the rear notch were frames imported from Uberti. They were cutting the rear sight from a V notch to a square groove with a machine.

Also shorting the male end of the cross bolt cylinder base pin retaining latch does not finish the job, you have to get a plastic washer and fashion it down to fit the screw inside the frame otherwise there will still have too much play. I suppose one could cut a few coils from the cylinder base pin retaining latch spring instead of whittling down a plastic washer. I labor over the whittling technique and works for me. This is, it fixes the pain in the rear problem created by the ill designed spring loaded cross bolt thing that Colt should have never gone to in the first place.

[shoot-n-lead]

I like the clones,but I very seldom get past the minium starting load with any load that I shoot.

I intend to use this gun for lighter loads...something in the 200gr range at a moderate velocity. It just depends on how well it will shoot the light bullets...sometimes, some guns will not group the light bullets well.