what kind of lube

[VTX]

Was woundering what kind case lube you guys are using

[Adam10mm]

Hornady One Shot.

[xtimberman]

I generally prefer the wax-type case lubes - particularly when resizing cases in non-carbide sizing dies. I used Pacific Unique for years and now Imperial Sizing Die Wax.

I keep Hornady One Shot around too and use it for very lightly lubricating batches of auto pistol brass prior to resizing in carbide dies.

xtm

[shooting on a shoestring]

Case lube? Walmart brand Super Tech Engine Oil Treatment (STP knock off).

[Hip's Ax]

Another vote for Hornady One Shot, I use to buy a couple of cans at a time on every order or when it went on sale. When I got low this year I bought a full case of 12 from Wideners. For my centerfire match rifles I work in brass lot sizes of a couple of hundred to a thousand. HOS works quick and mess free when I use it with my Stalwart lube racks. After resizing they go in the tumbler for an hour to get the lube off. Done. Never stuck a case or dented a shoulder. I just finished 800 LC 5.56 last night.

I use Imperial Sizing Wax for reforming.

I bought Red Rooster Radical Reforming Lube a few years ago when I was making 6.5 Japanese from 308 brass and having a tough time, I don't care for it. Its sticky as heck. Luckily Graf's came out with 6.5 Japanese brass right then and I quit trying to make it from 308.

[easy ed]

I use Imperial Sizing wax wax for everything - Just a dab will do you.

[sundog]

+1 Hornady One Shot. I like spraying into the inside of the case mouth. Like the Hipster, I'll put a few on an order whenever they're on sale. For just a few cases real quick like, wire pull goop, with the fingers.

[brshooter]

I use liquid lanolin and 99% alcohol, ratio 1 to 5. Works great

[EMC45]

Imperial

[eka]

Imperial Wax for me too.

[Maven]

I use 3 lubes: For general resizing & case forming, the Hornady stuff that comes in a small tub (white lube with the appearance of, but stiffer than Crisco). For very light resizing, as with low pressure [rifle] loads, wire pulling lube (available by the quart at "big box" home centers; also good for lubing CB's before sizing in a Lee push-through die). Although I haven't used it lately, STP gets a thumbs up too.

[Patrick L]

I use either RCBS Case Lube II on a pad or the Dillon spray, depending on how much I'm loading and the situation.

When I plan ahead, I like the RCBS because its water soluable, and if I have time I size my cases, dump them in the kitchen sink and rinse, and then set them out to dry for a day or two. The Dillon is faster to apply, but I have to tumble it off after I size. I use that if I find myself needing to reload right now, which is rarely the case. I find an hour in the tumbler takes it off. I do like the convenience of the spray lube though. I wish someone would come up with a water soluable spray lube.

I know some lube advertise that they don't harm powder or primers, but I just don't want any lube on my loaded ammo.

[utk]

Bullshop's all new "BullSize". Wipes off with a paper towel or tumbler cleaning.

Link at bottom of page...

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Imperial wax- excellent stuff. Used to use Hornady one shot, but got tired of paying that much for something that ran out quick. One shot is good stuff, but the Imperial is better for me and goes farther. The Imperial is slower to use though.

[tommyn]

Lee is all I use. Have the imperial but prefer Lee

[Kraschenbirn]

Anyhdrous lanolin and 90% alcohol in a small plant sprayer. I keep both on hand, anyway (lanolin for use in BP lube and alcohol for cleaning small parts).

Bill

[454PB]

Boot waterproofing. Works as well as Imperial lube, but costs about 1/4 as much.

[utk]

A friend of mine uses liquid soap, the "all natural" type. Saponified Pine tree oil.
He has FL sized range-pickup 30-06's that wouldn't fit his chamber. Water soluble and nice smelling too.

Urban

[DLCTEX]

+1 on lanolin and alcohol Or STP on RCBS pad. Dale

[Lloyd Smale]

anhydrous lanolin applied with my fingers. Havent found anything any better or cheaper.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Anhydrous lanolin,straight i.e. not cut with anything. A little bit goes a very long way; I'm still on a 3 oz tin after many years. Also have tried White Lthium Grease; a two oz tube that cost a couple of bucks has lasted thru several thousand 06 cases and its still pretty full.

[runfiverun]

that lanolin and alcohol is what dillon sells and the bottle ibought 4 years ago is almost
gone now. it does the every-day stuff any tough stuff gets imperial.

[hornsurgeon]

i started off using lee lube, but long ago switched to one shot and would not try anyting else.

[rmb721]

Imperial sizing wax and Hornady One Shot

[Bullshop junior x2]

Bullshops Bullsize, for me

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Where are you guys getting the Anhydrous lanolin locally at?

Dave

[osage]

Mostly Hornady One Shot.

[dromia]

Imperial sizing wax.

One shot for batches through the progressive press.

Usually neck size only on the progressive however so don't lube for it that often but One Shot has served me well when I do.

[utk]

Another case lube uses anhydrous lanolin and castor oil. Melt the lanolin in a double boiler and add castor oil. Don't remember the proportions now, will get back if I find the recipe...

Urban

[Shepherd2]

Imperial Sizing Die wax unless I'm loading on the progressive and then I use Hornady One Shot.

[Rick N Bama]

Imperial Wax for just a few or Dillon spray for a bunch.

Rick

[nicholst55]

Where are you guys getting the Anhydrous lanolin locally at?

Dave

I order it online from this place - reasonable prices, and they don't bend you over on shipping, either!

http://www.thesage.com/catalog/FixedOil.html

They also carry beeswax, jojoba oil, carnauba wax, and other ingredients of bullet lubes.

[Newtire]

Where are you guys getting the Anhydrous lanolin locally at?

Dave

I got mine at the local hippie food store-New Leaf Market

[1hole]

"Boot waterproofing. Works as well as Imperial lube, but costs about 1/4 as much"

Ditto. I use Kiwi's "Mink Oil", really a thick waxey product, from the shoe dept at Walmart and believe it is the same or virtually the same as Imperial. Works great. In some 40 years of handloading I've used many lubes and now only use the waxes. It's clean and easy to wipe off the excess when finished.

Lee's Allox stuff is good and so is the wire pulling lube but not as good as the waxes. STP - et al - is a good lube but MESSY and hard to remove with anything less than mineral spirits or some other such solvent. Ditto lanolin.

ChapStick lip balm works good, as does breast balm for nursing mothers (lanolin), so do the waxey power saw blade lube sticks marketed by Oldhams and sold in H'Depot but .... why bother with it? :-D

I now avoid all lubes that are derivitives of petrolum to avoid the potential for powder and primer contamination.

[Dale53]

When I was shooting IPSC Rifle and NRA Big Bore, I reloaded in quantity (1000 at a time). Ed Harris suggested using Lee sizing lube diluted 10/1 (water/Lee lube) in a .50 caliber ammo can with a proper sized french fry basket. Shake the liquid up before using (it'll settle a bit between uses), place the decapped cases in the basket and dip in the Lee mixture. Let drain, spread out on newspaper to dry overnight. It leaves a very thin coat of dry wax inside and out. Doesn't hurt the powder AT ALL when dry.

It has the great benefit of lubing the INSIDE of case necks so you eliminate expander drag (squeaking and lengthening of case necks, etc). Really works extremely well and wipes off with a paper towel after you are finished.

Thanks to Ed Harris for this MOST useful tip.

Dale53

[sundog]

Dale, that's kinda why I like Hornady One Shot - it gets inside the neck and reduces expander drag really good. I can see your way would be very efficient if doing lots of cases on a very regular basis.

[utk]

I did something similar: I emtied one tube of LEE Case Lube into a pump sprayer and added 4-5 tubes of ethanol. Shake well as the lube will sink to the bottom over time.
Spread out the cases on an old newspaper, spray - shake - spray.
The advantage with alcohol is that when it has evaporated the cases are immediately ready for reloading. If time is not a factor you can use water instead.