Mono vs. Foundry Type

[Echo]

Criminy - how does one tell the difference between? My guess is that the Mono- is bigger, like for headlines, while the Foundry is smaller, like sub-heads, but What Do I Know?

[RogerDat]

Foundry and Mono are both individual letter blocks. Foundry the block has a notch. Searching the site should turn up pictures of the notch. Letter size is no indicator.

[bangerjim]

RogerDat is right on. And do NOT confuse foundry and mono with LINOTYPE as sooooooooo many always do!!!!!

Linotype = "line of type". Literal! Complete words and sentences cast in one straight line of hard lead type.

banger

[lightman]

They are also made of different alloys. A quick search will get you the %.

[Echo]

Right. I've got the alloys, I know the diff between them & lino, I just have some that is mixed. The notch will tell me, and I appreciate the responses.

[cali4088]

Right. I've got the alloys, I know the diff between them & lino, I just have some that is mixed. The notch will tell me, and I appreciate the responses.

Ive actually had a couple thousand pounds of Monotype, foundry type around a year ago. I sold them to several people and even though BOTH types had a notch, the alloy %'s were varied. The best way is to take them to a Scrap yard and have them test them with their alloy analyzer. You would be suprised how they they differ from one another but may look similiar. Please keep in mind there was not ONE type of Monotype or ONE type of foundry type.

DO NOT THINK MONOTYPE DOES NOT HAVE A NOTCH, THEY DO.

[Echo]

Oh Mercy...

[bangerjim]

If you are really worried about it.......take the average of foundry and mono hardness's and use that. Bhn is only a wild guess anyway for most people.

banger

[MaryB]

Foundry left mono right

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd248/maryalanab/2013-07-18_01-29-37_824_zpsba4918b9.jpg

[mold maker]

Just a guess, but there may be a difference determined by Mfg. Such is often a ploy to require brand specific future purchases.

[RugerFan]

RogerDat is right on. And do NOT confuse foundry and mono with LINOTYPE as sooooooooo many always do!!!!!

banger

Yes, exactly. I made this mistake for a while till I learned the difference.

[garandsrus]

I would think that any type that was meant to be reused, instead of relented, would have a notch. I believe it is used for alignment purposes to make sure no letters are upside down.

i don't think you can tell the difference by looking at an individual block.

Melt about 20 lbs together into a batch and then take a sample into the scrap yard to get analyzed. The batch will be consistent.

[Echo]

Melt about 20 lbs together into a batch and then take a sample into the scrap yard to get analyzed. The batch will be consistent.
I'll do that - and cast up mini-ingots. In the past I've mixed mono- & WW's, 1/7, adding 1% Sn for my base aalloy, or 1/10 w/foundry - or what was called foundry. Oh me...

[bangerjim]

I have many hundreds of pounds of hand-set type from the 3 antique printing presses I own.

I have type that no notch.

I have type with 1 notch

I have type with 2 notches

I have type with 3 notches.

None of which will EVER be melted down for boolits. All will go to museums with the presses.

Like I said......don't sweat it......average it out.

banger

[RogerDat]

Treat it as you would any other "scrap" lead. Sort into piles of "like" material, melt the like material into ingots, get the ingots gunned if available. Your "batch" of notched and you batch of un-notched letters will probably be fairly consistent by type in your stash.

If precise gun testing not available test hardness (even pencil test) then cut small batch with plain as seems appropriate based on best guess of material. See how it casts, maybe re-melt and cut more or less based on results. Eventually you will zero in on what makes good ammo for your needs. It's a bullet not blood pressure medicine so not being exact on the formula won't be a fatal mistake. If it casts and shoots well.... it's a win.