2x4 Basics Bench Kit

[Arisaka99]

Been looking around and saw the kit on Northern, it's only like 65$. Says you just cut the 2x4's and plywood and it has the corners and legs. Anybody have one of these? Would I be better off just using 2x4's, 4x4's, and 3/4" ply? It'll be about 6' long and probably 2' feet deep with a shelf below and anchored into the wall so as to avoid wobble. I'll have an RCBS single stage, a LOADALL 2 and maybe eventually a MEC 600jr anchored in it. Suggestions?

[lead-1]

I don't have one but haven't heard anything bad about them. That being said, I went with a Simpson Strong Tie kit (KWB1). It has proven to be very sturdy for me, I have an RCBS single stage on it and a LEE 3 hole turret. This is the kit I used and at the time it was like $30 at Home Depot,

http://www.strongtie.com/products/diy/kwb.html


Here is mine, I went with 2' deep and 4' wide due to space being limited at the time,
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16305&d=1255233200

[Cmm_3940]

Been looking around and saw the kit on Northern, it's only like 65$. Says you just cut the 2x4's and plywood and it has the corners and legs. Anybody have one of these? Would I be better off just using 2x4's, 4x4's, and 3/4" ply? It'll be about 6' long and probably 2' feet deep with a shelf below and anchored into the wall so as to avoid wobble. I'll have an RCBS single stage, a LOADALL 2 and maybe eventually a MEC 600jr anchored in it. Suggestions?

why bother with the kit? 2x4's and drywall screws are plenty sturdy without paying extra for fancy extra bits you don't need.

[dragonrider]

You can also get the kits at Lowes or Home Depot, may even cost less.

[bedbugbilly]

I have never used a "kit" but have constructed many work benches over the years. If you are going to be using the bench to mount a press - I'd recommend using dimension lumber for the top such as 2 X 10 or 2 X 12. A 2 X 10 is 1 1/2" thick X 9 1/4" which would give you a bench top 18 12" wide or two 2 X 12 (11 1/4 wide) would give you a bench top 22 1/2" wide - or you could use a combination of widths. This gives you a sturdy top to bolt your press to and provides plenty of weight to the bench to allow you to size/resize stubborn cases.

If you want a "smooth" top - you can cover the 2 X dimension to with a thinner piece of plywood. I've made benches where I have used 2 X material and then put a "smooth" top on it by using left over laminate flooring (Pergo type) with a edge band of 3/4" pine around it. The bench I'm currently using I covered with "stick on 12" X 12" floor tile - you can buy these by the piece at Lowe's etc. in a pattern pleasing to you. It makes a nice smooth bench top - I can easily see a dropped primer, loose powder, etc. and it easily can be swept off with a whisk broom and dust pan - plus it cleans off easily with a spray cleaner.

All sorts of things you can do to "customize" a bench to fit your needs. Personally, I wouldn't waste money on a "kit" but if you don't have a lot of woodworking knowledge, it can make things easier.

Good luck and I hope you'll post pictures of what you end up with! Always nice to see how others do it! :-)

[crawfobj]

Solid core doors make a great workbench top and are inexpensive. I used a full size 1 3/4" thick door and it's held up great. Much cheaper than dimensional lumber. If it ever gets rough, I'll cover it with Formica.

[mdi]

I looked into the Strong Ties Kits when I got my shed, but there were none at the local hardware store so I built my own bench. Good idea and my research showed they are easy to use and strong. If there had been any available, I would prolly have used them.

A reloading bench is just a heavy duty bench that won't move around with a vigorus press operation. Nuttin' special just use heavy lumber, a good solid top and attach it to the wall (and/or the floor). My bench is about 24"x72"and about 36" off the floor. I used 2 slabs of 1/2" plywood for the top and 2, 2x4s sandwiched for the frame members. I wanted as much space underneath for storage so I used 4 HD angle brackets (no legs) rated at 500 lbs. each, attached to the wall. The bench won't move in a magnitude 8 earthquake...

[Hardcast416taylor]

I got a copy of the Shooting Sports Assn. plans for building a bench with backboard shelving from a friend about 25 years back. I modified the plans for my own purposes and area where I would build it. I used 4x4`s for legs, 2x12`s for everything else. All wood was secured with 3/8 carriage head bolts and construction grade wood screws. I had a goodly supply of this wood, bolts and screws from a recent building project. The top is 2x12 with 3/4" plywood with a 1/4" formica sheeting on that. The bench I wound up with is VERY heavy and sturdy to the extent that "Jumbo" the elephant could probably tap dance on it! If I were to need to move, the bench would stay here!Robert

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

I built all my benches out of 2x4s and screws. The tops are THIN plywood. BUT, under each press, I use a 2x8 that spans the depth of the bench from front to back, under the plywood. This gets screwed into the frame and adds all the stability that is needed. I also attached my benches to the floor joists for added stability. Cheap and easy. If you can screw them to studs, all the better. I have 1 bench that is 16' long x 2' deep, one that is 8' long x 2' deep, and one that is on wheels that is 4' x 4' square. They all have a shelf underneath for storage. My advice would be to make your benches as big long as you can, while keeping them around 2' deep. I havent seen the need for anything deeper than 2'.

I reload and swage on these benches.

[joesig]

I built all my benches out of 2x4s and screws. The tops are THIN plywood. BUT, under each press, I use a 2x8 that spans the depth of the bench from front to back, under the plywood. This gets screwed into the frame and adds all the stability that is needed. I also attached my benches to the floor joists for added stability. Cheap and easy. If you can screw them to studs, all the better. I have 1 bench that is 16' long x 2' deep, one that is 8' long x 2' deep, and one that is on wheels that is 4' x 4' square. They all have a shelf underneath for storage. My advice would be to make your benches as big long as you can, while keeping them around 2' deep. I havent seen the need for anything deeper than 2'.

I reload and swage on these benches.
That's how you build a bench. You create a much longer lever to resist the deflection forces of sizing/swaging.

I anchor my presses over the legs (left, center and right) for support and have room between for other tasks.

Glued and screwed I doubt I have $50 in the bench.

If I have to move it, I put "runners" along the back and front set of legs. It rolls nicely on some 1/2 EMT conduit. Runners come off after the move.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Right. There is no reason to have the bench be super heavy or the top be super thick. Anchoring it is key. I think my top is 1/4" thick. I have taken my benches apart and moved them once already, and it was a breeze. My benches are here : Post # 1692 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?12392-Loading-bench-pics&p=3068839&viewfull=1#post3068839

[bear67]

I have built workbenches for mechanics shops, machine shops, cabinet shops and of course gun and reloading shops.. I usually just whatever material is cheapest for the project or already in my spare parts repository. I have never used the "kits", but lots of glue and long screws.

I weld up bench frames often as we have steel available in surplus materials. But my overall favorite for bench covers or tops is hardened Masonite. Glue a piece on and when it wears, just glue another on top of the first one. I have two woodworking benches that the tops are 3'0" x 7' O" solid core doors from a hospital totally covered in plastic laminate. Plug the hole and they cost $1 each. I am not cheap, but my wife says I squeak when I walk.

[Arisaka99]

So with the 2x8, are they running from the wall out toward you as cross bars, or perpendicular with the length of the bench?
I could get away with 1/4 or 1/2" for the top if I used 2/8 or 2x12's underneath as a second layer?

[dpoe001]

When i built my reloading bench i used a 2x8 x 10 (rough cut) piece of chestnut that was in the barn,then covered the top with 1/8" steel plate.It takes two men to move it. And my grand kids will be able to use it.

[Wayne Smith]

Chris, two by's typically run the long way. The problem with them is that the edges are usually radised so you get a grove where they join. If your father in law has a table saw you can rip these off, losing some width.

Mine that you have used is a sheet of cheap ply ripped the long way and contact cemented and screwed together. It is screwed to a ledger board that is lag bolted (1/4") to the studs. I have supports under the top and legs in front. The supports run from the legs to the ledger board. If there was enough overhead room you could dance on it, I've stood on it many times.

It all depends on your space and how you want to build it in or leave it free standing. For instance, my design would not be easy to install in a basement with concrete walls. You would have to drill the concrete and use expansion bolts, probably too easier to go free standing there. To get a free standing bench square and level for the amateur (you doing it yourself with no experienced help) one of the kits may be a good idea.

[MaLar]

I used a bench made from 2"X12" lumber, split it up pretty quick even with glue and screws.
I know have a solid core door as a bench. Got it as a lumber yards damaged door. Cost was like $20, but this was years ago. would still be a good idea to check. Cut the knob side off put some finish on it, and bolted every thing down using fender washers and have never had a problem. I used some steel wall mounts I made, but you could use a 2"X4" Frame.

[Wayne Smith]

If you use a solid core door don't cut off the door handle hole, just put it to the wall and use it to drop electrical cords through. I had to cut holes to do that.