Rem.722 extractor install

[DANNY-L]

I finally found an extractor for my 300sav. on GB. Can someone tell me if they just snap in or is there more to it. Thanks

[SOFMatchstaff]

If the rifle is pre 1974, then you need a rivet, dont think the new style will interchange. Look carefully at the bolt for the small flush rivet, and a hole in the extractor you just got.

[DANNY-L]

It is a pre 74 (50 something) there are cut-outs inside the bolt but not all the way through. I haven't got the extractor yet,has to be shipped.
I've read arguments on this as to whether they are riveted or not but haven't found a direct answer. It appears that the extractor may have little protrusions on it that clip into the cut-outs I mentioned.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Is your rifle not extracting the fired case or is it extracting the case till the case mouth is out from under the front reciever bridge then drops the case? Mine does the latter. It is not a case of the extractor being bad, rather a case of the short case neck length. This was explained to be by a gunsmith I went to about the case dropping and not ejecting problem.Robert

[fouronesix]

DANNY-L,
The 721-22 extractor simply clips into the recess in the counterbored part of the bolt head- no rivet. Be sure to clean that area well before installing. The extractor is full length around the inside of the head minus the diameter of the ejector. That's the way the extractor nib indexes to the proper location. Be extremely careful when installing to prevent putting a kink or bend in the extractor. Each side of the nib is where it's most likely to kink or bend- not good.

[Artful]

http://cdn2.armslist.com/sites/armslist/uploads/posts/2013/05/05/1573217_01_brownells_remington_700_type_e_640.jpg

fouronesix (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?25058-fouronesix), then why do they sell one with a rivet? Remington made them both ways, with and without.
The rivetless ones have a rim (overhang) that holds the rivet under, on the end of the bolt.
So you're stuck with the riveted style upon replacement of same unless you modify the bolt.
Pacific Tool And Gauge sells a cutter for Remington type bolts for the late type extractor recess.
Probably not worth it for just one bolt.
Back in the day there was a fair number of conversions done to SAKO extractors.
http://i55.tinypic.com/126bmea.jpg

[DANNY-L]

Thanks all sounds like I'm good to go when it gets here. Mine when opening the bolt to extract it would leave the case either in the chamber or about an inch or so out of the chamber,I would have to tilt the rifle for the brass to fall out or bump the butt.

[fouronesix]

Artful,
The Remington Model 721-722 extractor is different from the "original style" Remington 700. The 721-722 snaps into a recess in the bolt head counterbore and is not riveted. The Remington 700 is riveted in. And yes both the Remington 721-722 and Remington 700 extractors can be changed to Sako (snap-in captured) or M-16 (pivot pinned) claw. But that requires some modifications to the bolt head- as pictured in the photo of the M-16 style extractor.

There's confusion because there is a "new style" rivet-less extractor for the 700 and some others.

[Goatwhiskers]

If you try to just push that snap-in extractor into place you'll probably kink it. Put the bolt in a vise vertically, lay the extractor on the end, and push into place with a dowel larger than the extractor, sometimes necessary to rap with a hammer to make it "pop" into place. GW

[DANNY-L]

Good to know thanks

[fouronesix]

Before installing, you can lightly chamfer the bottom edge of the extractor with some emery cloth or fine sandpaper. Also, with some emery cloth or fine sandpaper, remove any sharp edge to the bolt head counter bore. Both of those touch-ups can help ease the entry of the extractor into the counterbore and help prevent bending or kinking as it's pushed into place.

[flounderman]

The ejector is spring loaded and flips the empty when it clears the receiver ring. If it is pulling the case, the extractor is working. The ejector isn't working properly. Either binding from dirt or weak or bad spring.

[DANNY-L]

fouronesix (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?25058-fouronesix) thanks that should help really good.
flounderman (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?6952-flounderman) 9 out of 10 times it won't pull the case but maybe 1/4-1/2" but once in a while it'll draw it back halfway then let's go.

[DANNY-L]

OK here goes, I put in the new extractor which just snapped in. I made up some dummy rounds and checked function,It'll extract normally now but maybe 2 out of 10 it won't,it'll either not pull at all or maybe halfway. Any idea what might be the issue now.

[fouronesix]

No idea, but those things are persnickety. While in place, the actual nib or extractor tab should be held up slightly (away from the ID surface of the counterbore) by the tension of the two wings of the extractor- the ends being indexed to and fairly close to and on each side of the ejector. Without looking at it in hand, I'd say the one you got was already worn out or sprung.

You can try getting one of the newer model clip-in type Remington extractors but they require some modification before they'll fit into the recess in the 721/722. You'll see the difference by looking up the new part and looking at a pic. I think the procedure is explained in one of the volumes of Brownell's "Gunsmith Kinks". IIRC volume 3. ?

Or, may be time to consider having a Sako or M-16 type installed. Ughhhh, mo' money. But that will fix the extraction problem. A downside to those is the location of the extractor. Since they can only be installed next to the bolt lug, they will flip a cartridge slightly higher than an extractor that is in line with the lug. While the cartridge will positively extract, it can hit a low mounted scope turret cover or mount and do the "rattle plop" when clearing. A slightly higher scope mounting may solve it, or if it hits just the turret cover, the scope can be rotated 90 degrees left. You'll have to keep that in mind when using the scope adjustments.

It's really no problem for simple cross hair reticles. I've mounted several of my scopes 90 degrees left if for no other reason than to add clearance for loading plus having the insurance for clean extraction/ejection. Both of my dangerous game bolt guns are set up that way.

Added a couple of pics. Rem 721 bolt head with Sako type extractor. Remington 721 with scope rotated 90 degrees left to add clearance for loading and ejection.

[DANNY-L]

Thanks and the extractor I bought off GB as new old stock. It snapped in place good. I did notice that the extractor tab is out away from the recess a bit,I can push it in but it won't stay cause of tension from the ends of the extractor. It's like it should be bent just a whisker but not sure thats a good move. It's almost getting to the point of sending it down the road as is and under full description of this issue to let someone else have fun.

[fouronesix]

I hear ya about the frustration of it. It doesn't take much to "spring" one... then there isn't enough tension to grab and hold the rim. It costs between 100-200 to have a Sako or M-16 type extractor installed. If the rifle is in good shape and the bore is good and it shoots with proven accuracy it may be worth it to convert the extractor. Otherwise???

[DANNY-L]

The rifle is in good shape and worth it to have fixed. Accuracy I don't personally know because I haven't fired it although the neighbor friend I bought it from back in sept. has used it for years and said it has always done good by him.

[Hardcast416taylor]

This thread has convinced me to have the Sako type extractor done to my 722 .300 Sav. I am fed up with this rifle extracting the fired case halfway then dropping it on the other rounds sitting on the follower. I have already had a different extractor installed, still does the same thing. I like this rifle too much to peddle it down the road.Robert

[DANNY-L]

Can't blame ya there.