ML boolits for sabots (??)

[soldierbilly1]

I am just curious, what boolit and what plastic sabot are they using for this? (50 cal rifle)
Are there any advantages to 'assembling' your own?
Just curious as I have had reasonably good luck with most of the flavors out there.
Better performance on game?????

Billboy

[Rick Hodges]

I buy the sabots from MMP ( HPH-24) and use .452" 300gr. Hornady xtp pistol jwords. Great performance at a third the cost. You could buy 250 gr. if you wish, or the flex tip bullets. The sabots are the same used in the TC packs ( they were Tc's supplier).

[duckey]

I have been using the following with mixed results, and I don't have all my data in front if me so ill tell what I remember.
370 GN soft lead maxi ball in a BPI Blue sabot cup, Feochi 2 3/4" hull with a 616 fiochi primer, under sabot cup is an RS12 BPI gas seal sitting on 26 grains of Clays, the shell is roll crimped. My first 5 shot group was at 50 yards and all but one hit in a 6" circle with one flyer, since then tests have been all over the place. I have other recipes I'll share when I have the info in front if me.

[rodwha]

Using your own cast boolits would reduce the cost of the projectile quite a bit, though the cost of the casting equipment would need to be figured in too I suppose...

I have a 285 grn WFN (.375" meplat) for my ROA that Accurate Molds made for me. My 1:48" twist ought to do well with them if I ever decide to give 'em a try, though I'd either have to hope they fit well enough in a .458 X .50 sabot or buy a resizing die to make them .452" as they drop at .456".

[quilbilly]

I have used the green sabot (MMP) with 429 SWC boolits for elk for many years (PRB for deer). They are very accurate with 240-265 gr plain base boolits in my TC's out to 200 yards and beyond. They leave the barrel at about 1600 FPS. Figure the cost of the bulk sabots at 20-25 cents each when bought in the 50 bags.

[Screwbolts]

IMHO, I have found that is a waste of time to use anything other than Harvester sabots, several in my family, including myself buy them by the case from Grafs and sons. I also have 3 molds for .452 diamater smooth sided projectiles. Many other have great results with boolitz w/ grease grove boolitz, but all of my shooting now, is with smooth sided boolits in Harvester sabots, and that is in Smokeless guns that I build for myself. I have bought and used a lot of MMP, but found harvester's to be the most consistent and reliable in all temperatures.

Ken

[tomcat388th]

I'm also using the 300 grain xtp .452 in a black hornady sabot in my cva optima have been pleased with the performance and accuracy with this combo.

[altheating]

I too have gone to Harvester Sabots. I have found that I get a better seal and better accuracy as well as more consistent velocities. Boolit choice is like any other rifle, shoot what your rifle likes best. Yes, assembling your own is much cheaper. One thing that I have found and see constantly is the fact that so many people have this notion that the best accuracy is with "2" pellets. I have converted so many people back to loose powder. I tell them to shoot a couple of groups with xxx grains of loose powder, keep adding more until your accuracy goes away. Then shoot the powder charge that shoots best.
Check for blown sabots (load to hot) brush between shots (get the crud out of that barrel), weigh your boolits (a few grains difference makes a big difference) use consistent seating pressure, use loose powder to taylor your load to the rifle. Oh yea, clean your rifle when your done shooting.
I too find that MMP sabots are to hard when it's real cold out. The Harvesters seem to stay more pliable.

[Squeeze]

126597Accurate 452-300s MMP-HPH-24 sabot

[johnson1942]

squeeze, that is a good looking mold and bullet. who made the mold? ive never had any trouble with mmp sabots. they shoot in any weather for me.

[rodwha]

Accurate Molds.

[Squeeze]

I like it because I can cast them from very soft lead. they group well for me. and you cant beat a big ole hunk of soft lead for stopping power. I have to pick shots a bit better so as not to do catastrophic damage to the good eatin parts :-P I may try to harden them up a bit more for next year. .45 hole in, baseball swath out. I lost a whole shoulder pretty much to exit wound this year. Most of my home turf shots are under 50 yards, with 15-30 being normal. I hunt thick bottomland swamp brush and briars mostly.

For target shooting, Ill shoot almost anything for long colt, and ususlly use MMP sabots. I shoot some harvester sabots, but really see no difference for brand preferance, to me its more about getting the proper bore fit, but for the majority of my guns, .452 pistol bullet in a HPH-24, or harvester crush rib is the combo. (there always has to be that ONE that likes a 3 petal, or .458/orange combo better).. but theres the mystery of life :smile:

[Hamish]

Harvester sabots, Lee 454-298 Improved Minie, 70 gr. Blackhorn 209, CVA Staghorn. 2-3" @ 100y.

http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/226848/lee-1-cavity-improved-minie-ball-bullet-mold-454-298m-454-diameter-298-grain

The MP 452-300 HP also flies very well.

[phaessler]

MMP sabots / Miha 434640 sized 0.430 no lube or check / propelled by 80gn BH209 or 100gn T7 / 1-2" at 100yds
CVA Kodiak Magnum w/modified breech plug.

Hits like a freight train every time.

Biggest discovery for me was a few years ago, watching and BP shooter load his muzzleloader and using a bathroom scale when seating the patched ball. Said he was able to obtain the best groups when the loading pressure pushing the ball down {while the buttstock was on the scale} was consistent. Actually force doesn't matter, as long as its consistent shot to shot. Been doing it that way ever since and I find it works.

[OverMax]

Have a fair amount of T/C Breakaway sabots left for two rifle calibers. 50 & 54 cals. Fire up those T/C 54 sabots occasionally with a 240 gr. 44 cal SWC cast sitting centered in the plastic pocket. C/O wheel weight having a touch of Linotype a dab of pewter (to help fill out the mold) seems to work for my needs. They do make a hole. <No doubt about that. Cheap shooting when someone can cast their own bullets. Much better performance experienced with a all lead projectile than with one of those j-word squeezed together factory thingy's. "That's for sure and for certain."

[Tackleberry41]

Most will say the advantage is cost. Its hard to find the mixed packs of sabots and bullets for under $1 a shot. But suddenly you put them in separate bags the cost plunges. A bag of 100 sabots might be $9, and a box of pistol bullets $20. But again they put them in a 15 rd pack and their $15.

Some bullets I wish you could buy separate, like the spitzer type shockwaves, but only way I have ever seen them is in the sabot packs.

[Odinbreaker]

I cast a 300 gr .429. 240 .429 I use the green harvester sabot. I cast a 255 gr 452 ise the black sabot I also cast a 400 gr 454 I use the orange sabot or re size to 452 and use the black. All shoot well I also use the 400 in my 54 cal 1x48 guns.

[Screwbolts]

I posted some photos of my smooth side boolitz and molds up in the Kaboom thread, all three versions,
Page 5. If anyone is interested.

Ken

[Screwbolts]

MMP sabots / Miha 434640 sized 0.430 no lube or check / propelled by 80gn BH209 or 100gn T7 / 1-2" at 100yds
CVA Kodiak Magnum w/modified breech plug.

Hits like a freight train every time.

Biggest discovery for me was a few years ago, watching and BP shooter load his muzzleloader and using a bathroom scale when seating the patched ball. Said he was able to obtain the best groups when the loading pressure pushing the ball down {while the buttstock was on the scale} was consistent. Actually force doesn't matter, as long as its consistent shot to shot. Been doing it that way ever since and I find it works.

Yes on the scale I use one all the time, my old analog scale stays right next to my loading bench. IMHO, consistency is very important. RB loads and all others.

Ken