RCBS lube-a-matic 2 replacement handles?

[Cmm_3940]

I just got my new RCBS lube sizer set up, and no, I will never, ever, pan lube again after using the proper tool. :)

Something that occurred to me during my first session was that it really could benefit from longer handles with more leverage, both for the main lever, and on the compression screw. I was wondering what experiences people here have had upgrading the handles on the RCBS LAM-2?

[winelover]

Never found the need to lengthen the handle on the RCBS Lam II. It would be rather hard to do because of the welded "ears" on it. Could probably go with a piece of tight fitting pipe , used as a "pursueder". However, besides looking hideous, it would disrupt the balance and cause it droop in the resting position.

Many of us have adapted a socket to fit over the compression stem, thus allowing the use of a socket wrench handle.

Winelover

[Wayne Smith]

And if you need more than a socket wrench handle get a lube heater, your lube is too hard!
I don't need a persuader, but if you are somewhat handicapped and don't have normal strength it may be a good idea. If you have normal strength you need to look at why you need more power - are your boolits too hard, are you trying to size too much in one step??

[Cmm_3940]

When I get about halfway through the lube stick, It seems as if the lube plunger may be turning inside the lube cylinder rather than screwing down? It seems like I crank and crank without getting as much pressure as I should. There is a fair amount of resistance to turning, but I never feel it increase to a firm pressure like it does when I first start out at the top of the lube stick. Does this make any sense? How much should I need to be cranking per boolit? I'm lubing the Lee 452-228-1R with the two skinny lube grooves. The top groove fills before the bottom unless I crank the pressure about a turn and a half per boolit, which doesn't seem right. I have the sizer mounted on a 5/16" steel plate, with an old iron sitting on the plate behind the sizer. The sizer gets warm to the touch, but not hot.

[Cmm_3940]

The sizer seems to lube more evenly when I move the handle in a smooth, even motion without jerking. My thought was that a longer handle would help accommodate this. Now I'm wondering if the handle is fine, and my issue is with insufficient lube pressure?

[kevmc]

Also,
Ensure lube groove is aligned with holes in die!!
Compare boolit to die when removed from press, how far down is the nose compared to the top of the die....
Takes more pressure if only 1/2 of the hole is lined up.

[Cmm_3940]

Also,
Ensure lube groove is aligned with holes in die!!
Compare boolit to die when removed from press, how far down is the nose compared to the top of the die....
Takes more pressure if only 1/2 of the hole is lined up.

OK, this makes sense. When I run the top punch into the die without a boolit and lift it up, I don't see ANY of the hole above the bottom punch, just a bit of lube seeping around the edge of the bottom punch. I initially had the depth stop set lower, but had lube going all over the place. Now it sounds like I need to set my depth deeper and use MUCH less pressure. I still have a couple hundred
boolits to do, so standby...

[Mike W1]

Do yourself a favor and put a round ball knob on your handle. And then do the little socket adapter so you can use a ratchet instead of that darn slider.

[Mark Daiute]

Do yourself a favor and put a round ball knob on your handle. And then do the little socket adapter so you can use a ratchet instead of that darn slider.

I'd love to see a photo sowing how people have done this. The socket adapter, I mean.

[Mike W1]

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/HPIM1847.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/HPIM1848.jpg
Use a ¼” drive ½” 6 point socket with a slot cut in it to allow a bolt to go through
the top of the luber screw and you can eliminate that annoying double ended ball to
apply pressure. The ¼” drive socket wrench works much nicer. I cut the slot with
a metal angle grinder. And you’re not messing with the factory setup. Think I paid
$1.59 for the socket!

[MT Chambers]

I believe that swapping out handles on most of this equip. is counter-productive, if it allows you to put more stress on those parts that are made to perform at certain stress levels.

[Mark Daiute]

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/HPIM1847.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/HPIM1848.jpg
Use a ¼” drive ½” 6 point socket with a slot cut in it to allow a bolt to go through
the top of the luber screw and you can eliminate that annoying double ended ball to
apply pressure. The ¼” drive socket wrench works much nicer. I cut the slot with
a metal angle grinder. And you’re not messing with the factory setup. Think I paid
$1.59 for the socket!

Thank you.

[gwpercle]

Most problems stem from too much pressure. I finally learned just a little pressure every now and then got the job done without getting lube on the base.
Slip a cheater bar, longer metal tube or pipe over the handle if you need more leverage for that.
Gary