Synthetic motor oil for resizing brass?

[GoodOlBoy]

I saw a video the other day where a fella was using synthetic motor oil to resize brass. Anybody ever do this? Does it work? It would be nice to have a alternative to sizing waxes, sprays, etc.

GoodOlBoy

[koehlerrk]

I've done it. Used some Mobile 1 10-30 on an RCBS lube pad because I needed to load some ammo and it was too cold in my garage to use my Hornady One-Shot. Anything below 40 degrees and that stuff sticks cases, and sticks them HARD!

So, Mobil 1 to the rescue... it worked, but cleaning it off the brass was a pain... the cases were slippery for a long time afterwards. Wound up wet-tumbling them with SS pins and hot soapy water. That said, it worked well, and the effort in sizing the brass was greatly reduced over any other lube I've ever used, full-length 30-06 sizing took about as much effort as bullet seating.

So, it can be done, I don't care for the mess, I'll just wait for a warmer day to reload, but that may not be an issue for you.

[rasto]

I do it all the time. I put few drops into a seal bag (spread over the bag) than put couple hundreds 9mm brass and shake well.
Only problem are sticky edges and powder.

[gwpercle]

Sure it works, it's a good lubricant, just leaves cases oily. I was in a pinch the other day and used automatic transmission fluid to resize some 303 British cases that must of be fired in the most maximum over sized chambered rifle on the planet. The wax sizing lube wasn't doing it but a smear of ATM made them go right in and out.
I'm sure the synthetic 2-stroke oil I use on my moulds would work too.
Gary

[bangerjim]

Too messy to clean off! Use the standard case lube or lanolin and alcohol mix. Cleans up much easier. That little tub of Unique brand case lube I have has lasted an awfully loooooong time!

banger

[michiganmike]

I've never tried motor oil or ATF. I have a 2 or 3 oz. bottle of Bonanza case lube. Clear bottle, amber colored, viscous liquid. It seems like I have had it forever. Can't remember when I bought it. A little goes a long ways.

[Hickok]

Alberto V05 for hair, works on lube pad or fingers, wipes right off easily, and cheap to buy.

[jcren]

Definitely want to clean it all off. Lock-up style semi's like a 1911 or my Taurus need a little case/chamber friction to function consistently. I polished the chamber of my Taurus first thing while cleaning up some obvious problems. Poor accuracy and soot stains with all tried ammo. Got educated and roughed up chamber with 600 grit, groups shrank and no blow-by except on very light loads. Oops!

[kens]

Alberto V05 for hair, works on lube pad or fingers, wipes right off easily, and cheap to buy.
Well, that is a soap product;
you could probably use dishwashing soap as well, and rinse with plain water.

[jcwit]

Well, that is a soap product;
you could probably use dishwashing soap as well, and rinse with plain water.

That you can, I've tried Dawn just for kicks.

[retread]

I tried the synthetic motor oil but found it to messy. I got some pure lanolin from randyrat for some homemade lube and tried that. Works great. I just put a touch on my fingers and rub every fifth or sixth case. What remains on your finders is enough for about 50 cases. Just wipe of with a rag with a bit of alcohol and your case is clean.

[pertnear]

I just sized about 1,000 nickel .38 Spcl case using WD40. I put them in a plastic tub & sprayed the lube on top then mixed thoroughly using my hand. WD is thin so go easy with it, don't over do it. They all sized easily without incident. I plan on a good cleaning after expanding the case mouth & before loading.

[Bzcraig]

For that matter any lubricant will work but as mentioned it's the clean up that's a pain. I use Lee case lube, easy to use, wipes off and doesn't degrade powder.

[Wayne Smith]

STP - it's what RCBS puts in the small bottles to refill their lube pad.

[dudel]

Sure; but why bother? If you're worried that one day you'll be sizing brass, and run out of case lube; then get a spare tin of Imperial or whatever you use and be done with it. I'm still on my first bottle of Frankfort spray lube. It's over 5 years old; and may last many, many more years than that.

You WANT to get the lube off the case, and you want something that comes off easily. Leaving the lube on the case puts extra pressure on the bolt face, and possibly the brass. On firing, the brass expands to the chamber. Lube left on, can cause the case to move back against the bolt creating additional pressure and possibly becoming partially unsupported. Further the if the lube is left on for an extended period, some get gummy. A gummy case puts additional pressure on the extractor and the brass.

Use whatever case lube you want. Oil from your nose works! Just use something that cleans up easily.

[w5pv]

I have used Marvel Mystery Oil for more years,more than a lot of you are in age,and have never stuck a case with it. Easy to clean after use.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Virtually any lubricant will work. It's more about how much you want to clean up afterwards.

I have even used WD40, as long as there is some kind of lube on the case it won't stick in the die.

The Lanolin/Alcohol like Dillon's or the spray on Hornady stuff is the least offensive stuff to use.

You could probably spit on the case and have it work in a pinch.

Randy

[Wayne Smith]

Virtually any lubricant will work. It's more about how much you want to clean up afterwards.

I have even used WD40, as long as there is some kind of lube on the case it won't stick in the die.

The Lanolin/Alcohol like Dillon's or the spray on Hornady stuff is the least offensive stuff to use.

You could probably spit on the case and have it work in a pinch.

Randy

Depends on the case, Randy. I actually size my 32S&W (short) without any, but that is a tiny case. I doubt any bottleneck case would work with just spit.

[gwpercle]

That STP type case lube has got to be the messiest lube ever devised. The old Lyman stuff that you smeared on a pad was like that...thick and greasy...yuck! As soon as I tried Lee Case lube I was hooked, so much cleaner to use.
Gary

[FLHTC]

Lucas is the best, much better than Slick50 and I've used them both.

http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-builder-lubricants/engine-break-in-oil-additive-tb-zinc-plus

[Hickok]

Well, that is a soap product;
you could probably use dishwashing soap as well, and rinse with plain water.This is the stuff you put on hair for control and combing, kind'a like "Dapper Dan" in "O Brother Where Art Thou."

[Garyshome]

Anyone ever use a Foster Graphiter?

[Garyshome]

I don't need lube on most of the pistol stuff [except for 9mm] Carbide dies are OK in my loading room!
Now rifle is a different story 223/556 is a PITA because of the amount that has to be loaded, any of the other hunting cal's I need so few of them it's not a big deal.
[I have a couple of K in 223/556 to be prepped yet]

[Blanco]

If it the mess your worried about try this.
I got a plastic butter tub and put lead bird shot in the bottom added some of my case lube and a bit of lacquer thinner. Stir the shot real good and dip the necks in shot for a light coat that wipes off easily. You will have to brush the lube out of the inside of the neck.

[ballistim]

Still have mine, works great for neck sizing, usually just use a q-tip with a quick swab of Imperial lube when f/l sizing, best stuff I've ever used.

[Slick Pilot]

Maybe there is something I am missing. Why would one need to lube a case for resizing in a carbide die? Once I found carbide, I never touched my non-carbide dies.

[jeepyj]

Maybe there is something I am missing. Why would one need to lube a case for resizing in a carbide die? Once I found carbide, I never touched my non-carbide dies.
I may be wrong but I say there mostly talking about rifle brass
jeepyj

[donald duck]

I HAVE USED SHALER RISLONE FOR YEARS, NEVER HAD A STUCK CASE. LUBE INSIDE NECK WITH Q TIP DIPPED IN RISLONE AND THEN WIPE AROUND OUTSIDE. I DO POLISH BRASS AFTER SIZING. dd

[gunfreak]

I bought a small bottle of pure lanolin with the intent of diluting it with the 100 alcohol but finf it didn't work very well as the cases seemed to almost get stuck. But I did use a little lanolin on the palm of my hand then take a few cases and roll them around in it.
That worked great, very safe.

[country gent]

I have used the Lee water souluable case lube occasionally, one nice thing with it is it works wet or even after its dried. A damp rag or quick polish removes it easily. I perfer the Imperial sizing die wax it has worked exceptionally well even for heavy reforming operations. We had swaging lubes for forming 2 piece cans that was water souluable and very similar to the Lee. It used to be the thing was to buy lanolin and cut it with alchlol to thin for case lube. While its not neccesary to lube for carbide dies I have found that a very light coat does decrease the force needed to size cases alot. An towel dedicated to lubing cases and a good lube will make short work of lubing large batches of cases. You have to pay attention when first starting to use the towel until it is impregnated with lube as it is easy to not get the proper coating of lube. I have used the same towel for 15-20 years now with Imperial and it does a great job. Spread it out on a flat surface working side up, pour cases on it ( I have a bath towel so a couple thousand at a time is doable) an appropriate amount of lube on the cases and pick up 2 corners of each end in each hand and agitate for a few minutes raising and lowering your hands. Pack the towel in a ziplock bag for storage when done. A towel damp with acetone or alchlol would remove it the same way I think, although it would need to be cleaned often. I have heard and seen guys tumbling cases with lube to lube them also. I thinl that STP with a little lanolin added might be an ideal lube. The industrial swaging lubes work very good but are probably overkill for reloading.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Depends on the case, Randy. I actually size my 32S&W (short) without any, but that is a tiny case. I doubt any bottleneck case would work with just spit.

Wayne: I was kidding? But really it depends on what you had for dinner.

Burgers and Fries,,, your golden!

Randy

[Freischütz]

STP worked but was hard to get off the cases and produced oil dents if I wasn't very careful about the amount used.

[rsrocket1]

The only reason I would use synthetic oil to lube my cases is if I were using synthetic oil in my car. I simply leave the bottles upside down over a jar to catch the last drippings from an oil change and use that. The advantage of synthetic oil is that the viscosity does breaks down slower than conventional oil after prolonged use. When lubing cases, there is no prolonged use so conventional oil drippings are just as good. And yes, I do use synthetic oil sometimes because I do use it in my car when I'm in the mood. Does it make a difference in the car? Hasn't yet. I've never had an oil related engine failure and I always change it regularly at 6-7,000 miles. It's just that sometimes I'll splurge and buy the more expensive synthetic Walmart jug of oil instead of the conventional jug.

Yes, mink oil, Dillon's lube (simply lanolin and IPA), One Shot and 90% of the homemade concoctions all work if used properly. Snobs will chastise you for not using the same expensive store bought lube they use, but if you are not getting stuck cases and you are enjoying the hobby, you can simply smile and say "thanks for the advice".

[MtGun44]

I have read that WD 40 is good for killing primers. . . . .

Bill

[magyars4]

I have read that WD 40 is good for killing primers. . . . .

Bill
I have heard the same thing and have used WD40 to kill some primed cases...but I am not fully convinced that it will be 100% effective

[vwpieces]

I have Imperial & lee case lubes but I still use Synthetic 0-20W on a thick felt pad for my rifle cases. It is very thin & effective. No build up & very little is needed. Also wipes off easily & leaves just enough to protect the brass & feed well. This is also my preferred gun lube. Will run all winter without issues & same in summer. Get a needle oiler from a hobby shop. One quart is a life time supply.