Building rifle

[Menner]

Ok I don't know if this is a special project but it is the first time I have tried this.
I have a Stevens 200 in 7mm 08 with a 22" sporter weight barrel and I have been experimenting with it shooting cast and have gotten mixed results.
But I am going to convert it to 308 with a 24" varmint weight Barrel. I have ordered a Barrel kit from ER Shaw 1/10 twist and a laminated Thumbhole varmint Stock. I have received the stock and the action fits the stock nicely I do plan on bedding the action never done that either.
The plan is to shoot in a cast Boolit shoot at Atglen Pa. they shoot out to 200 yrds and that was were I was falling short with the 7mm 08 anything that I should know/do Barrel should be here in a couple weeks. Any suggestion would be appreciated
Tony

P.S. I have a Friend that I shoot and cast with that shoots a 308 so molds and dies I have

[DCM]

You should get at least a no go gauge for the install.
One can use empty cases as a go gauge, but you need to make sure it will Not close on a no-go gauge.
If your rifle wont close on your cases it is no good to You, if it has excessive headspace it is dangerous to Everyone!
The Shaw kit may contain the headspace gauges you Need.

[DCM]

I put blue or green painters tape on the stock anywhere bedding compound may get to that is undesirable, modeling clay can be useful on internal stuff.
A good release agent is recommended if you ever think you might want to take it out of the stock for any reason.

[Menner]

Thank you what bedding compound do you use I seen everything from fiberglass resin to jb weld used and I have seen the blue tape used and planned on that and the kit is suppose to come with the headspace gauges

[Dryball]

Marine Tech or Brownells Accraglass are arguably the most used. Do yourself a favor...if you go with the Accraglass, get the paste (easier to work with). It seems like a daunting task but is fairly easy...go slow. Only take out about 1/16th from the action area and don't forget to bed 3 sides (only) of the recoil lug recess.

[waksupi]

Acragel. A couple strips of electrical tape on the front of the recoil lug to give you clearance. Inletting bolts from Brownell's makes the bedding job a lot easier, and more exact. You don't need to remove any wood, assuming the action isn't sprung in the wood. Just a skim coat is fine through the center of the action, mostly seals the wood. The recoil lug, chamber area, and tang are the important places for bedding.

[leebuilder]

Plus one on the no go gauge and proper bedding compound. "Bedrock" works good for me. Have used a few metal type compounds, the odd time it can crumble. I use neutral shoe polish for release agent.
Good luck.

[archmaker]

Be sure that the barrel is not bottoming out on the bolt instead of the guage. I did not use the ER Shaw, but a Shilen and when I got it, I had the devil of the time, I used the No-Go and it would stop, but it would also stop on the Go guage. Come to find out that my chamber was cut deep, and I had about .027" that I had to remove from the back of the barrel, I made sure the gap between the barrel and the bolt was proper, (and actually on mine a little 'tight') by using a small piece of aluminum foil. Made a small easily squished <technical term there :) > ball and tail and put the tail (looks like a capital L with the short part having the ball) in the chamber and then closed the bolt. Then dropped out the aluminum and measured my crushed ball, which gave me my gap between bolt and barrel, the standard for the Savage I believe (off the top of my head) is .010" and I have mine set to .005".

I acutally set mine up to headspace off a sized case (i had some fired cases when the round was too much headspace). Basically my full length resizer sets the shoulder back by about .001-.003" of an inch from the fired size.

Most important thing to do is take your time, and measure and measure and measure. One thing that is helpful is the blue tape on the barrel as 'witness' mark. The savage barrel is 20 TPI, so one full revolution is about .05" inch, a 10th of a revolution is .005". I used the tape to make sure the barrel did not 'turn' while tighnting the nut.

[nekshot]

my opinion here is like a nose, we all got one but for me I have had a 30-06 in the corral for 40 some years and never really had any love for it as I was stupidly chasing the new thing from magazines and then one day it hit just how good the 30-06 and its family of various sizes are. So my vote is 30-06.

[DCM]

+1 on the Brownells acraglass gel, I use it with the appropriate dye to match the stock.
I also use the steelbed but only in areas that won't be seen.

[country gent]

For years I used bisonite steel bed as that was what was recomended for garands and m1as. very hard when cured but not as brittle as some fiberglasses are. A little harder to mix as its ont a 1-1 mix like acraglass or micro bed. I have used devcon plastic steel putty, marine tex the white does accept color nicely, and a few others at times. Some tricks to bedding are 2-3 layers of tape on front of recoil lug. Plug holes and recesses, any where it form a mechanical lock, with modeling clay. a good release agent if not using what comes with a kit it is wise to test it first. On a bolt action bedding studs are a plus. Have everything set up and ready to go any clamps pre set close to where you need them, towels, scrappers, aplication tools, a drop cloth before mixing bedding up. This gives alot more of the "working time" to use for the project. dont stress or bow the action when bedding or it will be when done also.

[Menner]

All sounds like good advice still have a couple of questions .
1 found the inletting bolts good call. assuming after you have set the action in with the inletting bolts remove them and use action screws to tighten for the bedding to cure. Ok here is a can of worms what do you do for torque on the action screws I have always put a good tension and run with that, but I have found that there are a lot of opinions about it. I do have a inch pound wrench I can see the advantage of consistent torque opinions vary what do you think?
2 Accraglass gel kits 4oz kits are on backorder they have one that says it is non flammable and they are in stock anyone know the difference would I be better off waiting for the standard gel kits?
3 I like the idea of the crush ball
4 good info on the 20 TPI thanks

Nekshot the 7mm 08 is a short action so the 30 06 is out
Thanks All more questions to follow I am sure
Tony

[country gent]

I leave the inletting bolts in place and iether surgical hose wrapped tight or a clamp and bar to hold. I have a clamp set up made for M1As that locks it in thru the mag well. Another trick on bolt actions ive found helpfull. With the action torqued in place find the gap between barrel and stock at the forend tip. Use this shim to help support and center barrel when bedding.

[waksupi]

All sounds like good advice still have a couple of questions .
1 found the inletting bolts good call. assuming after you have set the action in with the inletting bolts remove them and use action screws to tighten for the bedding to cure. Ok here is a can of worms what do you do for torque on the action screws I have always put a good tension and run with that, but I have found that there are a lot of opinions about it. I do have a inch pound wrench I can see the advantage of consistent torque opinions vary what do you think?
2 Accraglass gel kits 4oz kits are on backorder they have one that says it is non flammable and they are in stock anyone know the difference would I be better off waiting for the standard gel kits?
3 I like the idea of the crush ball
4 good info on the 20 TPI thanks

Nekshot the 7mm 08 is a short action so the 30 06 is out
Thanks All more questions to follow I am sure
Tony

What you are doing with the inletting bolts, is simply doing the bedding. Turn them in to stop before adding the bedding compound. Count the turns as you take them out, and as you put them back in, go back in exactly the same amount of turns. Don't use the finish screws for this. This way you should not torque the action.
On the bolt holes, before adding the compound, put a piece of scotch tape over them. This will help keep the bedding out of the threads. The thickness of the tape is of no consequence when tightening the bolts.
You DO want the Acragel. Here is some in stock.

http://www.amazon.com/Brownell-Acraglas-Gel-Misc/dp/B0028M5U4E/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420517153&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=acraglas

[pertnear]

...With the action torqued in place find the gap between barrel and stock at the forend tip. Use this shim to help support and center barrel when bedding.
EXCELLENT advice! This is what I do also, but I don't see it mentioned much in articles on glass bedding.


...On the bolt holes, before adding the compound, put a piece of scotch tape over them. This will help keep the bedding out of the threads. The thickness of the tape is of no consequence when tightening the bolts.
Good advice also, but I might add that after your glass bedding is done, re-drill the stock bolt holes & make sure the action screws are not too "tight" on the sides.

FWIW, I use Devcon Plastic Steel Putty 10110 as a bedding compound as the ultimate extra-hard, ultra-low shrink epoxy, but in reality, most any good epoxy will work. Acraglas gel is a fine product. You might consider the extra step of "pillar-bedding" while your going this far with it. For me at least, it actually makes it easier for me to get a stress free bolt up. Pillars do not need to be expensive or fancy. Craft stores have threaded lamp pipe nipples in various sizes or you can use most any aluminum or metal tubing of the proper diameter & fit.

[Menner]

Thanks Again I have got some great advice accraglass is ordered. I seen some where that on a savage action that the rear Tang should not be touching the stock when the action is torqued in place.

I also purchased this stock from ER Shaw and it is already pillar bedded or I would do this also
Thanks
Tony


Now all I need is my Barrel to get here

[Menner]

OK so I called ER Shaw today and they still did not have my Barrel in stock and could not tell me when it would be in ( supposed to be in by Dec 29th) so I called Shilen and talked to them and they said that it would be a 1-3 month lead time but they directed me to NorthLand Shooting Supply and said that they might have a barrel in stock. I called them and talked a guy named Jim so now I have a Criterion SS Hand lapped SS 26" 1 in 10 twist Barrel shipping tomorrow. Cost me about and extra $170 over the shaw but it will be here WED or THUR next week. All I need to order now is a Go Gauge to set the Head space I got the wrench, recoil lug and SS Nut from Northland. it's Probably more Barrel than I need for 200 yard shooting but I do need something to compensate for the dummy behind the stock LOL
Has anybody used the criterion Barrels and how do you like them?

[country gent]

If you go to a farm supple store ( tractor supply ) you can get big vetranary syringes. I mix the epoxy and put it in one of these, You could mix it in the syringe even thinking about it. This makes a great applicator for the epoxy and saves some mess. You dont need a needle just the spout on the syringe works great. Allows for a fine bead to be laid or if you cut grooves in places ( M1A/M14, Garand ) to pressure fill them quick and easily. The are only a few dollars and you can toss them when done. Get a medium to bigger one and the scale will allow accurate measuring when mixing. Bamboo skewers make decent stirring sticks and pop cycle sticks work well for spreading and applying epoxy. Tape off or pack any holes or areas that can form a mechanical lock with clay before appling release. 2 coats of release agent unless it shows you have full coverage visably. Johnsons paste wax, pam cooking spray will also work for release agent. Have clamps rags paper towels scrappers basically everything your going to need ( and extras) set up and ready to go before mixing the epoxies.

[waksupi]

Vinegar on a rag will clean up mess on the outside of the stock, and your hands. Don't wipe the bead directly over where the barrel and stock meets, trim that with an Exacto once it sets up pretty well, not totally hardened. The vinegar tends to turn the bedding white, so you don't want a white line left showing.

[Menner]

My new Barrel got here and let the transformation begin!
The first thing I could not believe what it took to get the factory barrel off I took a oak block and cut a hole in it and split it with the band saw put it in my vice and cranked it down and took a mallet to the barrel nut wrench and no go ended up moving the blocks so the vice held them just below the barrel and took a C Clamp and pulled the blocks until they were touching and it took a 3lbs hammer and a block of wood on the wrench to finally break free the barrel nut
after that everything went pretty much according to plan put the new barrel in the blocks remembered to put the wrench on the barrel new recoil lug and threaded the action on slipped in the go gauge had already removed the ejector closed the bolt and turned it up tight on the go gauge and backed it off just to the point that the bolt closed with just the slightest resistance and locked it in place then put in the no go and it would not close torqued it down to 90lbs and rechecked the gauges and all is good.

have not tried the aluminum foil trick yet but will tomorrow

Now my Stevens 200 wears a varmint thumbhole stock and a Criterion SS 26" Varmint profile Barrel in 308 with a 1 in 10 twist the weather looks like **** tomorrow so the breakin will begin Sunday
Tony


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[customcutter]

Very Nice, Hope it's a shooter