Case prep order of operations

[SeabeeMan]

It's time for me to process the 3000+ 5.56/223 brass I've accumulated to start reloading for my new AR. I have about 3000+ mixed headstamp 5.56/223 brass that I need to prep, though. What order do you guys prep in? I have already de-primed with a Lee universal de-capping die, so the Berdan primed ones are already sorted out...and they took 2 decapping pins with them :mad:. Is there a more effective order to process these in or am I on the right track? Or does it even matter all that much and I should quit thinking so much?

1. De-prime
2. Tumble
3. Swage out primer pocket on all w/ Dillon 600
(even though some won't need it, will it hurt them to run through to save the sorting and to make sure I don't miss one that will jam up my progressive later?)
4. Trim to length, inside/outside deburr & chamfer, clean primer pocket
(all using Lyman Case Prep center and Lee case trimmer)
5. Sort by headstamp

[dragon813gt]

Here is my process for new to me brass:
Sort by headstamp/check for head seperation
FL Size/Deprime
Tumble to remove lube
Swage/trim/deburr
Anneal
US clean followed by a short tumble to coat w/ NuFinish

This is what works for me. After initial prep it's usually just checking for head seperation and load. Annealing is based on which cartridge and how many times it's been fired.

[Dan Cash]

1. De-prime
2. Tumble
3. Swage out primer pocket on all w/ Dillon 600
(even though some won't need it, will it hurt them to run through to save the sorting and to make sure I don't miss one that will jam up my progressive later?) Won't hurt a thing.
4. Trim to length, inside/outside deburr & chamfer, clean primer pocket
(all using Lyman Case Prep center and Lee case trimmer) I would invest in a used trimmer like a Forster and adapt it to power; faster and less frustration. 3000 is a bunch of brass.
5. Sort by headstamp If you are not going to go for bench rest or perhaps military matches, I would not bother with sorting. I work my way through a couple thousand mixed military and commercial brass in 5.56 and can't tell any significant degredation in performance shooting prairie dogs. 2 different ARs and a CZ bolt gun are the instruments of delivery.

[Idz]

I usually decap with the Lee universal and then wash everything so grit doesn't get in the sizing die. A good coat of spray wax for case lube and then size, trim, swage, deburr and anneal case mouth. Then into the tumbler to get a nice shiny clean case. I've never broken a decapping pin. I have the old style that uses a dowel pin and use a Lee Reloader press for de-cap so I have a good feel for the operation.

[SeabeeMan]

I do have a Lyman case trimmer (still manual) but the Lyman Case Prep was a Christmas gift. I'm going to give one of these a shot:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300905401209?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Should let me do all the case prep steps in one pop on the Lyman.

I was wondering about sorting the headstamps and was going to do some more research. This would be for coyotes at 250 yards max, but mostly plinking. I kept an eye out for head separation, neck splits, dents in the bodies, etc while I was decapping.

[Sensai]

I didn't see where you were sizing the cases, but trimming before sizing is a waste of time. The case length will be longer on a case once it is sized.:idea:

[SeabeeMan]

Good call, I didn't think of that. I guess I should tumble to clean, then lube/size and tumble again briefly to get rid of the lube. THEN move on to trim and fully prep.

[375supermag]

Hi...

I usually run my brass through the tumbler first.
Then I wash it with water, Lemon juice and Dawn dishwashing detergent.

After drying, I de-cap and re-size.

After another visual inspection, I re-prime and bell the case mouth(handgun brass).

When ready to load, I sort by make(unless reloading generic plinking rounds) and then charge with powder and seat bullets.

Every round goes into either a plastic cartridge container with a data sheet or into an ammo can (generic plinking, paper punching, just shooting for fun, etc loads) with the data sheet taped inside the lid.

The rounds that go into cartridge containers are test loads, hunting loads, a load I have determined to be viable as a self-defense load, etc. These are loads that I generally load less than 500 at a time, mostly .44Spl. .41Mag, .44Mag, and .45AutoRim. I rarely need more than 500 of these cartridges at any one time, but may load a couple different loadings, maybe a couple cast lead loads or a couple different jacketed loadings in each caliber.

The generic loads are generally loaded in batches of 1000 or more. Mostly 9mm, .38Spl, .357Mag, .45ACP and .45Colt. I also load smaller batches of these calibers in different cast, jacketed weights and power levels.

Separation of loads and complete data record sheets are very important.

[dragon813gt]

If you're going to swage the primer pockets you want to sort by headstamp beforehand. You will find there is variation in the different types and sorting first insures all pockets are swaged properly. In general sorting first makes all the other steps easy. If you don't plan on swaging or trimming then it's not absolutely necessary. Sorting 3k by headstamp is a little tedious but shouldn't take that long.

[SeabeeMan]

Some of these are pretty dirty and they need to get tumbled anyways before sizing, so they are going in now. I'll sort and then run them in batches, which I guess will save me some swaging. I'm sure these are going to mostly end up as plinking rounds, but I figure if I do the work in advance to sort and prep I'll have flexibility down the road with what the brass gets used for.

Is the test for a properly swaged primer pocket whether or not it accepts a primer?

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I do have a Lyman case trimmer (still manual) but the Lyman Case Prep was a Christmas gift. I'm going to give one of these a shot:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300905401209?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Should let me do all the case prep steps in one pop on the Lyman.

I was wondering about sorting the headstamps and was going to do some more research. This would be for coyotes at 250 yards max, but mostly plinking. I kept an eye out for head separation, neck splits, dents in the bodies, etc while I was decapping.

let us know how that works it looks like save a lot of time how do you hold on to the case

[Bayou52]

1. De-prime

2. Swage primer pocket

3. Wet tumble after swaging, as I use some oil on the swage stem to keep it from sticking. The wet tumbling removes all oil residue,

4. FL size,

5. Trim, chamfer and debur

6. Charge, bullet, seat, crimp with Lee FCD

7. Go to range and enjoy!

[FISH4BUGS]

My process:
Sort brass to remove all berdan cases into scrap bucket
Tumble clean
Lube cases with home made lube (8:1 - 99% isopropyl alcohol and lanolin)
Resize and decap on Dillon 550 with only sizer/decap die in toolhead
Trim on Forster trimmer with electric screwdriver attachment
Swage on Dillon swager
Chamfer and debur
Clean primer pocket
relube and load
tumble clean
case gauge every round
shoot
rinse and repeat
It takes you some time, but maybe I am just crazy but I enjoy case prep. It allows you to inspect each and every case along the way.
As someone said earlier, unless you are bench rest shooting or have a serious case of OCD, seperating by head stamp is not needed.
I do this with regularity with 223 and 308. It is the winter project for the most part. I do all the brass one step at a time. It is a great feeling when you get all the brass in a step done and then move on to the next step.
Two 5 gallon buckets - one holds the brass, the other gets the brass after each step. Alternate buckets.
I am working on last winter'as 223 as we speak. Load and shoot.
The only real improvement in this process would be a Dillon Power Trimmer....but they cost too much for my taste.

[SeabeeMan]

It locks the cutter and length gauge/stud in the collar which is turned by the case prep center. You put the locking stud/case holder in a hex bit handle and go to town.


let us know how that works it looks like save a lot of time how do you hold on to the case

[trixter]

Tumble, size (length, inside and out side deburring new Lee tool), then to the press for reloading. I am saving myself a lot of time now without all of the repetitive steps.

[DHC]

Here is my checklist:





Case




De-Prime



Clean (SS tumble)




Anneal (as needed)



Full-Length Size



Tumble (remove lube)



Trim (as needed)



Chamfer (as needed)



Turn Necks (optional)






Primer




Swage Pocket (as needed)



Uniform/Clean Pocket (optional)




Uniform Flash Hole (optional)














IHTH

[jaysouth]

My first step is to always wash the brass in citric acid/dawn/hot water. It reduces the amount of harmful residues that you will ingest in you lungs and adsorb in your body from handling. It will also make your tumbling media last longer.

I will be the first to admit that deprimed brass dries a lot quicker but you only cut an hour or two off your wait time by doing so.

[Outpost75]

Lately I've been processing several hundred pounds of USGI .30-'06 brass and I've learned a few things in the process.

First step is a light tumble in corncob to remove range grit.

Then decap using the Lee Universal decapper.

Sort out out for separate processing any pre-1952 dates, likely fired with corrosive primers, which require wet media cleaning

Cases with GI crimps post 1952 sorted by arsenal code, FA, LC, SL, WRA, WCC, TW, etc.

Lube with Forster sizing lubricant and FL size in standard die, but with decapping rod and expander plug removed. Separate decapping prior to sizing greatly eases and speeds up the process. (I expand case necks separately before loading).

Repeat light corncob tumble to remove sizing lube.

Bump-chamfer edge of primer pocket in drill press against 3/8" ball mill cutter. THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT prior to swaging primer pocket, otherwise, the swaging head will raise a slight "ring" around the edge of the primer pocket, which cases a false headspace condition. Removing the wire edge and LIGHTLY chamfering the primer pocket edges permits the swaging head to enter the pocket more easily AND gives metal displaced by the swaging head a place to go, mitigating the "false headspace" condition and ensuring a nicely radiussed primer pocket edge.

Primer pocket swaging is done on the Dillon 600 auto swager.

Trim to length and deburr under power.

Sort, visually inspect, hand prime, neck expand / flare with RCBS cast bullet neck expander with appropriate button for bullet diameter.
125970

[winelover]

I didn't see where you were sizing the cases, but trimming before sizing is a waste of time. The case length will be longer on a case once it is sized.:idea:

Unless you use a RCBS X- sizing die.

Winelover

[Sensai]

Winelover, you're right, but I thought that I read in the original post that he was using a Lee case trimer.

[winelover]

Winelover, you're right, but I thought that I read in the original post that he was using a Lee case trimer.

Not familiar with Lee Case Trimmers. Does the brass have to be unsized to fit in?:veryconfu

Winelover

[Sensai]

No, as with most case trimers, the cases should be sized before trimming. It's just because, as the case is squeezed down in diameter the case length increases. The mandrel that fits into the case mouth is usually the size of the sizing die expansion plug, or slightly smaller. Hope this helps.

[winelover]

The RCBS Power Trimmer, that I use, works just fine with unsized brass. YMMV

Winelover

[ballistim]

No, as with most case trimers, the cases should be sized before trimming. It's just because, as the case is squeezed down in diameter the case length increases. The mandrel that fits into the case mouth is usually the size of the sizing die expansion plug, or slightly smaller. Hope this helps.

I bought the Forster case trimmer over 30 years ago for this very reason as the pilots were sized to trim after sizing. Checking case OAL before & after on bottleneck cases is often surprising at the difference between before & after case OAL.

[dragon813gt]

The Forster that I use works fine w/ unsized brass as well. It's already been stated why you should size before trimming. The X-Die is it's own animal.

[cbrick]

The Forster can work with either sized or un-sized brass. It depends on which pilot you have, they make different size pilots. Standard I believe is for sized brass, both straight wall and bottle neck. I've got a couple of pilots that won't fit sized brass and I need to trim un-sized. Other pilots are too loose on un-sized brass and I need to size first.

Rick