Need Help with Mixing Alloy

[modrifle3]

I am new to the forum, but I have a batch of wheel weight that I just melted down. I am sure there is some Zinc in it so I will try the sulphur cleaning method. I am trying to make Lyman #2 and in the past I just added Linotype to wheel weight to get the hardness to around 14.5. In looking at Lyman's site they say to add 50/50 solder to wheel weight to get #2.

Will this not leave the % of antimony low?

Here is the mix me and a guy in his 80s used in the past casting 45 SWC

10lbs wheel weight, 3 to 4lbs lino and a chunck of lead solder . . . he was a chef not a chemist. So it was flavor to taste.

Best I can figure here is what we were working with before the solder was added to up the Tin.

93.11% Lead
5.57% Antimony
1.32% Tin

If you drop in a pound of 50/50 solder, Tin jumps to 4.5% and lead to 90.23%

This mix appears to be Lyman #2 and I always produced beautiful bullets with this mix, with zero leading.

Based on experience I always assumed I was on the right track. Any veterans have any advice?


Also I melted down a batch of range lead that I collected out of bullet traps. I used a torch to heat the batch because the plated bullets don't really melt easily and you have to burn through the copper. I noticed that one of the batches has a rainbow/purplish hue to the top of it. What does this indicate? Its only the top, does this mean other metals floated to the top?

[RickinTN]

First off welcome to the forum. You are correct in that particular recipe from the Lyman manual is in error. When starting with WW alloy you would have to have a source of antimony to get the content up to #2 alloy. It sounds like the older recipe you mention is a pretty good one and should act about like #2.
A trick that I've learned here but have yet to use: When smelting jacketed bullets use a pair of channel locks or side cutters and crush the bullets. This will most likely crack the jackets and allow the lead inside to escape during your normal smelting process.
The only time I've seen the purple coloration you mention is on pure lead or close to it when the temperature is pretty high. I don't think it is anything to be concerned with.
Good Luck,
Rick

[modrifle3]

First off welcome to the forum. You are correct in that particular recipe from the Lyman manual is in error. When starting with WW alloy you would have to have a source of antimony to get the content up to #2 alloy. It sounds like the older recipe you mention is a pretty good one and should act about like #2.
A trick that I've learned here but have yet to use: When smelting jacketed bullets use a pair of channel locks or side cutters and crush the bullets. This will most likely crack the jackets and allow the lead inside to escape during your normal smelting process.
The only time I've seen the purple coloration you mention is on pure lead or close to it when the temperature is pretty high. I don't think it is anything to be concerned with.
Good Luck,
Rick

Thanks for the feedback!

My next step is to get my own casting equipment:

Lyman 4500 lube/sizer
Lee 20lb Pro4
Lyman 4 cavity bullet mold for 200gr .45 LSWC

[michiganmike]

Welcome from Michigan. I would suggest only one thing: try tumble lubing. That is how I began lubing my bullets. It was my method of necessity because my three sons were young and money was tight. But I have always enjoyed good results with tumble lubing including very satisfactory accuracy. So, I have stuck with it.

Recently I began using Ben's Liquid Lube. This consists of 60% Lee's Liquid Alox and 40% of SC Johnson liquid floor wax. It is very east to make, dries quickly and performs well. The money you would save by not buying the Lyman lube/sizer would buy a lot of wheel weights or other forms of lead. Some people don't like the time it takes, or feel it is messy. I've found that cheap store brand wax paper and a supply of inexpensive disposable blue nitrile gloves takes care of the mess.

To learn more, go to this link: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?259285-NEW-!-!-T-L-Liquid-Lube

Happy New Year,

MichiganMike

[Echo]

Plus One for TL - I found that it works just fine for my .45 and .38 boolits. Haven't tried it for rifle boolits yet, but will soon.
I have an old mixing bowl about a foot in diameter, with a central post (used for spin-drying salad greens) that I use for my TL efforts. It holds a couple hundred boolits, and provides some exercise when tumbling, but works fine. Tumble, dump on waxed paper, spread out, turn on small fan to hasten drying, and There You Have It!

[Defcon-One]

Here's what I use. Option #1 gets you the real thing! Option #2 gets you really close, depending on your WW metal!

Lyman #2 Alloy (5/5/90):

Option #1:
20.75 lbs. - Linotype
3.32 lbs. - 50/50 Solder
25.75 lbs. - Pure Lead

Option #2:
12.35 lbs. – Linotype
3.8 lbs. - 50/50 Solder
33.7 lbs. - Clip-On WW



I like 50 lb. batches for consistency, but obviously you can divide each number by 2, 5 or 10 to make smaller batches.

Rainbow/purplish hue to the top means too hot for too long!