Refinish Slide and Frame

[crabo]

I want to refinish a couple of 1911 frames and slides with something durable and tough. I don't want a high polish blue. Any recommendations?

[Old Caster]

Check out Brownells Belgian blue. It is put on by making the gun part hot by inserting into boiling water and taking it out and applying the bluing that is kept in a bottle that is also in the boiling water with the opening above the water line. It will have to be done around 5 times and needs to be steel wool rubbed each time. The finish depends on how buffed the metal was when you started. If circle polished with 400 sandpaper, it will look fairly dull sort of like it was bead blasted with fine sand. If you would want shiny, the metal has to be final buffed. Make sure that after you are finished, the part is very well oiled. It seems to actually soak into the metal because it disappears quickly and the part will rust easily for a while if it gets too dry.

[lancem]

I got into Parkerizing a bit ago when I was building some Garands. Easy to do, minimum stuff needed. For doing something like slides and frames a stainless pot from walmart for less than $10 is all you need. I use a hotplate with my PID and have no worries of boiling it over. Here's a before and after on one of the Garands. PM me if you want my recipe.

[MtGun44]

I have used "armalloy" which is a particular hard chrome plating on several
1911s frames and a whole Browning HP. Very durable, seems like it never
wears at all. Get satin bead blast finish prior to plating. Both frames are
Wilson custom comp gun and the HP was done by Cylinder & Slide.

Bill

[country gent]

One thing to watch for with coatings on 1911s slides and frames is the "build up" of the mterial. some chromes hard coat coatings add thickness to the parts and slide rails may not fit correctly on the frames rails after coating them. Also a tight fitting barrel bushing may not turn into the coated frame. Bluing in its forms colors metal but dosnt add thickness to parts. Something to keep in mind. For a matte finish bead blast before blueing. Gives a nice dull finish that hold oils well

[MtGun44]

Hard chrome is extremely thin, all parts fit fine after plating.

Bill

[winelover]

Hard chrome, like Bill said.

125939

Or, Ceracote (available in many colors)

125940

Both have held up well.

Winelover

[crabo]

I have been thinking about this

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/gallery/

[osteodoc08]

Robar

[Petrol & Powder]

Another vote for Robar NP3 or NP3+, probably the toughest finish you can have on a gun.
http://robarguns.com/custom-firearm-finishes/np3-plus/

[Walter Laich]

some of those finishes would be worth more than the value of my guns

[Petrol & Powder]

some of those finishes would be worth more than the value of my guns

No doubt, but the OP said durable and tough....not cheap. ;)
I agree that the economics of the endeavor must enter into the decision making process.

[Moonie]

I've cerakoted one of my 1911's, I do like the look and the finish is tough and durable.

[John Allen]

some of those finishes would be worth more than the value of my guns

Walter I thought the same thing I got a nice old 38 tackle box gun that would be perfect for this except of course the amount of money my beater.