My Smelting Pot

[TX BOOMER]

These are a few pictures of my smelting set up . What do you think ? Will it get the job done ? :Fire:


http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Polecat_2007/02180813011.jpg


http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Polecat_2007/02180813021.jpg


http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Polecat_2007/0218081302a1.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Polecat_2007/02180813031.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Polecat_2007/0218081303a1.jpg

[mroliver77]

Have you used it yet Boomer? I have my doubts about the valve setup working. You might need a torch to keep drain and valve melted. Nice looking outfit.
J

[grumpy one]

I'll be surprised if you can use a stopcock valve of any kind in that application, but I've been surprised before. Personally I wouldn't even try it because I'm confident it won't work and the valve will be ruined for nothing. You could call that a self-fulfilling prophecy, though: I wouldn't try it. Best of luck.

[454PB]

Yeah, ball valves use a nylon or plastic material, it won't take the heat for long.

[MT Gianni]

They make most with the ball out of metal. There is usually a plastic or nylon packing that will not do well in the melt. No idea how long it will go but I would empty the pot fully when I was done and look for an old brass water shut off valve with a wrench to turn it handy. Gianni

[TX BOOMER]

I was thinking the same thing about the valve, so I ask about it the other night. Kind of got the same reply as you'al gave me. So I did change it for a brass valve with no plasitc seats all brass. I will be using it in the next couple of days I will let you know how it works. :Fire:

[brshooter]

You might want to try a gas valve similar to the one used to shut the gas off to your furnace. You want the one that is not a ball valve because of the nylon in it. The one you want is the one with the square nut on top with a line to show valve's position. Note: they seal due to grease in them, so before using, disassemble, degrease, use a liberal amount of grafite to coat inside, reassemble and you are good to go. Like the other said lead will seal, so go with a large line.

[Blackhawk Convertable]

Just want to mention that the gas valves that you are talking about with the nut on the outside are no longer building code legal. If the nut loosens, you WILL have a gas leak. For your smelter pot though, it is the perfect valve to use. One thing I would do is lose the 6" nipple you have after the valve. That sucker is gonna be solid lead unless you use a torch to keep hot.

[grumpy one]

One thing I would do is lose the 6" nipple you have after the valve. That sucker is gonna be solid lead unless you use a torch to keep hot.

Even if you move it to before the valve instead of after it, there will be a whole lot of heat loss in a place that is likely to be prone to freezing anyway. Better to keep the pouring point as close to the pot as possible, and turn the ingot mould around when you pour the second row of ingots.

[KYCaster]

I used to use a similar set up on a wood fired pot that would hold 300+ lb. I tried the tapered plug gas valves first and they didn't work. When heated, the taper would tighten up and wouldn't turn...could never get the tention on the nut adjusted right.

I ended up with a rising stem gate valve. It worked well and I used it for several years to smelt many tons of alloy. The pipe on both sides of the valve will have to be heated in order to flow, but once running, will continue till empty.

Couple of things to be aware of...turning a hot valve on/off gets tedious and uncomfortable so you'll most likely end up sliding ingot molds under the running silver stream. Provide plenty of room to manipulate and store the molds till solid...I had a piece of 2X6 channel ~8 ft. long that would guide the molds, hold them while cooling and catch any spills.

Also, any moisture, spiders, dirt daubers in the spout will cause a violent tinsel event...stay clear of the end of the spout when you open the valve, you may get a high temp. projectile.

Looks like a neat set up. Good luck with it.

Jerry

[imashooter2]

Is that galvanized pipe for the spout? Zinc is bad news.

[brshooter]

Blackhawk, I know they ae illegal, but there are thousands still in service.
KYCaster, thanks for the heads up on the heat causing the taper to seize up.

[MT Gianni]

Just want to mention that the gas valves that you are talking about with the nut on the outside are no longer building code legal. If the nut loosens, you WILL have a gas leak. For your smelter pot though, it is the perfect valve to use. One thing I would do is lose the 6" nipple you have after the valve. That sucker is gonna be solid lead unless you use a torch to keep hot.

Blackhawk as a minor thread diversion, not a hijack, the main cause of a leak was not the nut loosening it was the grease used to seal the two brass surfaces migrating to the bottom leaving a small void to leak past. Tightening re-distributed the grease but so did turning them or as an end regreasing them. That came to an end because of liability issues.
They are only illegal for new use, older ones are grandfathered in. Gianni

[TX BOOMER]

No , iamshooter2 it is s/s .

Blackhawk Convertable , was thinking the same thing about the nipple . So I change it to a 1 1/2" nipple. Thougth I would mite put a 45 elbow on it to turn the flow down. :Fire:

[Bigjohn]

TX BOOMER; IMHO any smelter which has an outfeed pipe would be a problematic setup. The simplest way to get a bottom pour smelter would be with a system simular to the LEE 'Drip-a-matic' needle valve system.

From a previous thread here by Texas Flyboy, I believe you can buy the nozzle and needle from LEE as spare parts. These are the ones designed for their 20 pound pots. The nozzle just screws into place.

I have a mate in Adelaide who built a bottom pour pot and used a .303" striker/firing pin as the needle.

My pot has detachable handles which I use one to lift and the other to control the 'pour', as they are detached while it all heats up they don't get hot. The pot will hold about 30 to 40 pounds of metal in one sitting.

John