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triggerhappy243
12-21-2014, 07:39 PM
Something I never really looked into because I mainly shoot copper jacketed bullets. But I am now starting to shoot more lead. In my pistols and my muzzleloaders. So here is a question that probably has been asked a gazillion times. Is there a real lead solvent to really remove lead fouling?

30Carbine
12-21-2014, 08:06 PM
Hoppe's number 9...check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ud2M1gGlU he did a pretty good job of a controlled test. good watching.

btroj
12-21-2014, 08:10 PM
They don't really dissolve lead, they help it release from the bore.
I have dissolved lead in the past, with hot HCl/HNO3 mixture and time. Oh, that was a few bits of wheel weight, not in a bore.

scottfire1957
12-21-2014, 10:16 PM
I've heard mercury will do that.

GhostHawk
12-21-2014, 10:25 PM
Other than Mercury which can make lead soft and squishy, I know of no true solvent.

For cleaning, I've been using 4 parts of Dextron III ATF fluid with 1 part of GooGone (For removing labels, sticky ****) poured into a small jar with a tight fitting lid. Moisten a patch with that, run it in and out, then 3-4 dry. Then a wet one and walk away for an hour.

I had a Mosin that I had scrubbed with Hoppes till it looked clean, patch's came back clean.
One pass with the red and I had 4 dry patch's that came out gray. Repeated, same story.
After the 4 repetition they started coming out clean after the wet pass. Then I looked down the bore again and wow!
It wasn't just clean, it had SHINE. It had a dark bore when I bought it but after some 4 months of shoot and clean, shoot and clean, it got polished up.

I like that stuff for outsides of guns as well as cleaning revolvers, etc. You can wipe a thin layer off, work it, wipe it dry, but it seems to leave a super thin film that a month later makes everything just slip and slide.

Your mileage may vary, but it is the best I've found for removing lead.

Garyshome
12-21-2014, 11:41 PM
Ed's Red and Chore boy on the brush.

Outpost75
12-22-2014, 09:59 AM
If your bullet fit, alloy hardness and lube is correct you shouldn't get any leading.

If you do, that is a symptom that something is wrong.

You are more likely to get leading because bullets and lube are too hard, than from their being too soft.

Dan Cash
12-22-2014, 10:17 AM
Gum Turpentine soaked on a wet patch. Wet the bore well, wait 5 minutes and force a tight fitting turpentine soaked patch through the bore. Works very well.

Montana Extreme lead solvent: Follow directions on container works way better than turpentine. I swore by the turpentine and still do but won a supplly of the Montana Extreme at a rifle match and tried it after I got the bore clean with turpentine. More lead came out.

Freightman
12-22-2014, 10:57 AM
If your bullet fit, alloy hardness and lube is correct you shouldn't get any leading.

If you do, that is a symptom that something is wrong.
So true glad you said it! fit is king and super hard isn't necessary fit is.

You are more likely to get leading because bullets and lube are too hard, than from their being too soft.
True so true! fit is KING

GBertolet
12-22-2014, 11:15 AM
I like to use the Lewis Lead Remover tool or an old bore brush wrapped in bronze wool. Both get the lead out in no time without harming the bore. Years ago I had used mercury, which worked great, but due to cost, availability, and potential health risks, I stopped using it.

Expanding on what was said in earlier replies, the bullet alloys used by most commercial casters is quite hard. If the bullet is undersized for your cylinder throats it will not obturate (expand) to seal off the base of the bullet from the expanding gasses. These gasses leak by the bullet and flame cut the sides of the bullet, depositing the condensing lead vapor on the bore, and the passing bullet irons the lead in. Softer bullets will compensate, by expanding more in the cylinder, and will seal off the bullet base from the expanding gasses. A general rule of thumb is, if the leading is in the cylinder, forcing cone, or first inch or so of the barrel, it is due to an undersized bullet. If the leading is only near the muzzle, it is due to too soft of a bullet or inadequate lubrication.

Geezer in NH
12-22-2014, 06:28 PM
Elbow grease will work

John Boy
12-22-2014, 06:34 PM
50:50 mix of pure gum spirits turpentine & acetone or Marvel Mystery Oil

62chevy
12-22-2014, 06:43 PM
Elbow grease will work

Heaven forbid not that!

montana_charlie
12-23-2014, 02:08 PM
Elbow grease will work
Mix that elbow grease into your bullet lube ...

Toymaker
12-25-2014, 07:34 PM
Muzzleloaders shoot a patched round ball which should be pure lead, certainly no harder than BHN 10. Unless you tear a patch you won't have leading. Some shoot lubed bullets, i.e. Creedmore Rigby, which will lead if you kick the velocity too high with a too soft bullet. Clean well first to get the carbon fouling out. Then I've used a Birchwood Casey Lead Removal cloth with great success. In an emergency, the middle of a competition, a little well lubricated 0000 steel wool on a tight patch followed by Kroil and a good cleaning worked well also.
On a muzzleloader, plug the vent or nipple; on a pistol plug the muzzle; on a revolver plug one end - then fill it with mercury and prop it in a corner overnight. Next day carefully pour the mercury back into the container and clean the bejeezes out of the firearm. Then clean the bejeezes out of it again. If you use a bronze brush on a muzzle loader be SURE it is the type that has the wire looped through the holder.
Mercury should NOT be stored in glass or a container with a metal top. Use plastic, air tight, and store that container in another plastic, air tight container.

As to a true solvent for mercury - only concentrated nitric acid or concentrated sulfuric acid will work. And you don't want to mess with them, believe me.