Powder deteriorating plastic

[cs86]

I found a RCBS Charge Master combo on craigslist that a guy was asking $250 for. He said he had only used a it a handful of times and it was just collecting dust. I told him that I'd take it for $235 and he accepted. When I went to pick it up he said he didn't realize that powder would deteriorate plastic and had left the powder in the machine for probably months. I wasn't aware of this either, but the powder seemed to eat into the plastic and somewhat embed itself. It's not easy to get off and probably won't completely come off. I told him I'd still take it as it was fully functional and I'd have to try and clean the plastic and maybe get a new tube for the top. So he ended up telling me I could take it for $200. I'm super excited as I feel I still came out with a hell of a deal still. Has anyone experienced this? I usually clean all my powder feeds after I'm done and maybe let them set a few days if needed. Any suggestions to clean it up?

[mattw]

Rcbs will replace it.

[Edster]

Yep give RCBS customer service or pop them an email and they will pop a new one in the mail!!! Great customer service!!!!

[altheating]

I had it happen with surplus 10B101 powder in a brand new chargemaster. It sort of etched into the green plastic at the base of the clear plastic tube. The tube turned from clear to opaque.

[altheating]

Almost forgot. Anyone want to take bets on how long it will be before CS86 leaves the drain open on the charge master?

[bangerjim]

Yep. Many alloys of plastic will be attached to different degrees by nitrocellulose gun powder. Unfortunately, that is the type of plastic most loader makers use!!!!!!! Always dump your load!

Go figure!

banger

[cs86]

Almost forgot. Anyone want to take bets on how long it will be before CS86 leaves the drain open on the charge master?

I'm sure it will happen a few times before I learn. :?

Kind of sucks that the lesson learned had to be on a fine machine like this and not some cheapo equipment. I have left powder in a powder drop for awhile and learned that it discolored the plastic. Never long enough to make it start deteriorating the plastic. Glad I know now so I don't ever make the mistake.

Hows come the powder doesn't start eating the plastic powder containers? I wonder why the scale equipment isn't using that type of plastic...

[bangerjim]

It is all in the alloy of the plastics, my friend! Your powder bottles are #2 HDPE and will not be dissolved my MOST chemicals! Chem storage bottles are made of it.

The clear tubes used on loaders are made of plastics like polysulfone or other hard plastics that will be rapidly attacked if powder left in there.

They do not use HDPE for structural stuff like scales/pans/tubes/etc because it is flexable and will deform. Stiff plastics are used becuase they maintain their shape and take sharp mold forms.

Just remember to dump!

banger

[catskinner]

The late Skeeter Skelton wrote about an incident where he left powder in the hopper for a period of several days. It discolored the plastic and also affected the powder.

[Kevin Rohrer]

Double-base powders will do this. I have not yet had a problem with single-base powders.

[hickfu]

Well its a good thing I read this thread... I have never used a powder throw and just purchased a new Dillon 550b, I was going to leave the powder in the tube for loading 9mm... I guess I will dump the powder after each use.

[EDG]

Double base powders contain nitroglycerine and attack plastics that are not chemical resistant.
There are many, many plastics that are chemically resistant and will not be damaged by smokeless.
However these plastics are considered engineering materials and can be relatively expensive compared to plexiglass (acrylic)
PETE used in soda bottles is one of those plastics.
Ordinary polyetheylene and polypropylene are not affected.

[Gofaaast]

I had read that Tightgroup was really bad about this. I have run it through my charge master a couple times and removed it as soon as I was done loading. I rub it down with a dryer sheet to keep static to a minimum and I still had to use a shotgun mop that I dedicated it's use for this to rub the sides off after less than an hour. Never had this issue with any other powders once I used the dryer sheet. The high nitro content makes it bond to the plastic they use.

[44Vaquero]

I love how information seems to disappear and reappear every few years as newer members come and older ones drop out!

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?224354-Pictures-of-destroyed-Melted-Powder-hoppers-wanted&highlight=powder+hoppers

[bangerjim]

With the new improved search engine and the tons of stored info on this forum, anyone can easily find answers to just about any questions they may ever have.......as long as they TAKE THE TIME to look for it!! Many seem to be just too impatient and it is just way too easy to ask questions that have been answered over and over time after time in many previous threads.

Even searches directly thru google.com end up here! Not bad!

B4 I ever ask, I LOOK. And READ.

banger

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Yeah dont forget to close the drain.

[44Vaquero]

Bangerjim,

I am going to both agree and a disagree with you! I attempted use the "NEW ENHANCED SEARCH" and could not locate the thread that I started? I ended up using the advanced feature and added my user name to the search info! There were just too many posts with the words Powder and Hopper etc. YMMV

As a general rule I usually do search postings before I post a question. Again, sometimes my 'Search Foo" is not up to the task.

[bangerjim]

I have found if you cannot find something you want and you know it is here, go to Google directly and do a string search. Many times it will find it.......on this site!!!!!

Watch your plastic!!!!!!! :bigsmyl2:

[cs86]

RCBS emailed me back.

"You'll have to pick it out the best you can. I'll send you a new hopper no charge"

I'll have to do a search on how to get the junk out of the lower part of the unit. That's the part I wish I could have the plastic replaced. Now with a rough surface I'm going to be self conscious on whether I get all powder out each time I unload it. I'll probably be using mostly stick powders which will be easier, but I don't want powder mixing. I need to figure a way to buff it out. It's stuck in there pretty good. I'd post some pictures, but I can't seem to find the right cable for my camera right now. The guy was using some kind of flake powder it looks like.

[Walter Laich]

Well its a good thing I read this thread... I have never used a powder throw and just purchased a new Dillon 550b, I was going to leave the powder in the tube for loading 9mm... I guess I will dump the powder after each use.

from day 1 I always dumped my powder back in its container. The plastic will still become opaque, it just takes longer

[dragon813gt]

Forget about etching plastics. Leaving powder in a container in any besides the one it came in is a potential issue. It's a good way to forget which powder it is.

As far as the drain on the Chargemaster. I've yet to spill any powder unintentionally. Two simple ways to prevent this. Check it before pouring any powder into it. And more importantly, close it when you're done draining any powder out. If you close it when you finish it will be closed when you start the next time.

[altheating]

I have Velcro tags made for all my powder types. As soon as I fill the reservoir I attach the Velcro tag. $#|+ happens and sometime you get pulled away from the loading bench in a hurry. By doing this I always know what is in the measure.

[Dr.S]

Bangerjim,

I am going to both agree and a disagree with you! I attempted use the "NEW ENHANCED SEARCH" and could not locate the thread that I started? I ended up using the advanced feature and added my user name to the search info! There were just too many posts with the words Powder and Hopper etc. YMMV

As a general rule I usually do search postings before I post a question. Again, sometimes my 'Search Foo" is not up to the task.
new "old" questions keep the board moving anyway.
it seems participation is down at alot of forums i go to.
maybe money is getting tight or people think the govt is reading stuff.
most forums have a core group of 10 or 15 guys no matter what the topic though.
so dont worry the govt has yer number anyhow.

[44Vaquero]

johnf, Well I think it's safe to say/assume the government monitors these boards. With the number of firearms that I own and the 3 or 4 boards that I post on it's too late to worry about it! LOL


I think most boards have a natural ebb and flow based on the economy, politics, local events etc. You are correct about the core group, those 10 or 15 people keep continuity on a given form. On my Face book page 'Lee Reloading and Casting Equipment Group" it is a new person posting and mostly the same 15 to 20 guys that always have the right answer. You would think that with 7500+ group members the participation would be higher? It's not!

[Dr.S]

johnf, Well I think it's safe to say/assume the government monitors these boards. With the number of firearms that I own and the 3 or 4 boards that I post on it's too late to worry about it! LOL


I think most boards have a natural ebb and flow based on the economy, politics, local events etc. You are correct about the core group, those 10 or 15 people keep continuity on a given form. On my Face book page 'Lee Reloading and Casting Equipment Group" it is a new person posting and mostly the same 15 to 20 guys that always have the right answer. You would think that with 7500+ group members the participation would be higher? It's not!
well,theres only so much to talk about and its all been said before.
people are all gung ho about new stuff they get,then the newness wears off.

[Idz]

I've had powder (W231) in my Lee red hopper for over a year (I just add fresh powder on top) with no sign of damage. It may be the hopper, powder, or that in New Mexico my basement is the perfect cool, dry storage place.

[Dr.S]

I've had powder (W231) in my Lee red hopper for over a year (I just add fresh powder on top) with no sign of damage. It may be the hopper, powder, or that in New Mexico my basement is the perfect cool, dry storage place.
thats probably not a good idea,i dunno.Something might evaporate out of the powder.

[bangerjim]

Here is the desert SW it is dry as a bone compaired to most of you guys. But I NEVER leave any kind of powder in the hopper tubes.....EVER. I dump it when I am finished with the loading session. Easy enough to do. The hopper tubes do NOT offer any kind of envornmental or climate progection and powder could/will degrade. And eat up the tubes....depending on what they are made out of and the powder you are using, as said above.

Depending on your brand of loader and size of tube, you can make new tubes out of those plastic protectors they sell to go over fluorescent light tubes. Big boxes normally sell them.

banger

[5Shot]

Did that with some Lil'gun over just a few weeks of use.

[too many things]

if it has a strong smell don't leave in the hopper Lyman says they have changed the plastic on theirs they sent 2 new ones but I have not tried them for long term

[cs86]

It's interesting on how the powder changes the property of the plastic. The powder seems to have softened the plastic to a point that I can push my nail against it and see an imprint. The outer plastic that wasn't against the powder is hard.

[bangerjim]

It is the exact same thing as pouring acetone into a styrene plastic bottle. It softens the inside where contact is and the outside remains hard.......until the acetone dissolves completely thru!

The outgassing of the powder attacks the molecular structure of the plastic tubes. HDPE is one of the few plastics that will not react to.......well.....almost any chemical. I store 3 different ionically STRONG acids in HDPE bottles. I have found no solvent that will attack it. Only heat!

banger

[DR Owl Creek]

I use a Lyman DPS 1200 (1st gen, with Turbo upgrade) to weigh out most of my powder charges. Some powders, particularly Hodgdon Longshot, will stick to the gray plastic removable reservoir base like it's glued on very quickly. You must empty the powder from the hopper as soon as you're done using it.

The (formerly) clear plastic hopper tube on my Hornady L-N-L AP press is now as dark as the lenses in a pair of sun glasses. I always empty it out as soon as I'm done using it too.

Dave

[Dr.S]

I use a Lyman DPS 1200 (1st gen, with Turbo upgrade) to weigh out most of my powder charges. Some powders, particularly Hodgdon Longshot, will stick to the gray plastic removable reservoir base like it's glued on very quickly. You must empty the powder from the hopper as soon as you're done using it.

The (formerly) clear plastic hopper tube on my Hornady L-N-L AP press is now as dark as the lenses in a pair of sun glasses. I always empty it out as soon as I'm done using it too.

Dave
All my hoppers are crystal clear except one. The 2" one that I move from measure to measure when I'm actually loading.After use i put the nice clean one back on .Nothing is as embarrassing as a dirty,nasty hopper.It reflects badly on you personally and I wont put up with it.

[trapper9260]

Yep. Many alloys of plastic will be attached to different degrees by nitrocellulose gun powder. Unfortunately, that is the type of plastic most loader makers use!!!!!!! Always dump your load!

Go figure!

banger


I found that out with my hornady scale and left the powder in it for a short time and call the company about it and they said that I will be ok for it.I use steel wool to smooth it and all and now no problems .Now i just empty it after when done for that day.

[silverado]

I honestly have a bad habit of leaving hp38 in my lee hopper. It is darkened a little after a few years of use, but not bad.

[wv109323]

Star loaders had metal powder hoppers back in the day. Bullseye powder would eat a hole in them if left in the hopper for extended periods.

[dudel]

HDPE is one of the few plastics that will not react to.......well.....almost any chemical. I store 3 different ionically STRONG acids in HDPE bottles. I have found no solvent that will attack it. Only heat!

banger

LOL. Just reminded me of the bathtub scene in Breaking Bad when Jesse has his first experience with hydrofluoric acid.

Even though I only keep one bottle of powder on the bench at any time, I always return it back to the bottle when done. Powders too expensive to use as fertilizer.

[lightman]

I've always emptied mine. The powder is not good for the hopper and sunlight is also not good for the powder. Its just too easy to empty it.

You'll like that Chargemaster. I'm not sure how to go about cleaning it up. Maybe a small sanding disc on a Dremmel or drill.

[MtGun44]

I keep powder in my Dillon 550 measures for years at a time, they sit on the bench
and are ready to go whenever I need more ammo. No problems, whatever Dillon
uses is better than RCBS's old plastic (may be different now, my Uniflows are
old) some powders stick to it.

For safety, I write powder type and quantity on the outside with a yellow china marker
and in the Dillon, drop a V-shaped piece of cardboard cut from a primer container
with the powder type, quantity and date last verified on it.

[captaint]

I had Titegroup eat the tube in my old Uniflow. Wasn't too bad. I just don't leave it in there now.

[prs]

I am always the odd ball. I used to take care to empty my powder measures' hoppers to avoid this very think. Then one day I forgot and left it full of a double based powder (SR7625) and it was months before I realized my mistake. No harm, no foul. So I started to not empty the hoppers unless I was going to be away for some extended time. Unique, Red Dot, SR7625, BullsEye, Promo, Green Dot, 700X, Tight Group, and Trail Boss have all been left for days at a time or much longer, no sign of damage. The red Lee plastic is like new. I have Promo in it now. Temperature may play a role, it is always about 68F in my loading room.

prs

[mold maker]

I have 3 older PMs. One RCBS container is so crazed and fogged you can't tell the powder level. The Lyman isn't as bad but still not clear by any means.
The second RCBS was replaced (free by RCBS) when furnace installers dropped a piece of duct on it. It broke cleanly where it wedged into the metal base. It too was badly crazed at the time.
This etching occurred long (70s) ago. I wasn't told until much later what caused the problem.