1851 colt Navy.

[ambergrifleman]

Anyone here have and shoot 1851 Navies ? I have a Cimarron/Uberti 1851 Navy Ordered, Should have in a week. :castmine::bigsmyl2:

[pworley1]

I have enjoyed having one for years. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I have enjoyed mine.

[docone31]

They are sweet. The more they are fired, the better they behave. At least mine did. They prefer a .454 ball, with 30gns of fffg. I make my lube, Beeswax, Olive oil, and Crisco. Never had leading issues. I also reshaped the grip. My Pietta has a swirl on the end that makes the pistol climb in my grip. I filed the brass frame, then the grips to match. I have large hands and that helps to grab it.
You will have a ball with it.

[Maven]

Although the OP doesn't say, don't the Colt 1851 Navy revolvers take a .375" or .380" ball (.36cal.)?

[pietro]

Although the OP doesn't say, don't the Colt 1851 Navy revolvers take a .375" or .380" ball (.36cal.)?

Yep - it's the "Army" models that are .44/.45 cal (My ROA loves .457" RB's)

My 6-shot .36 cal M-1851 Navy takes a .375" RB.

http://s26.postimg.org/5sryqwwl5/DSCN1993.jpg


My 5-shot .36 cal M-1862 Pocket Police takes a .380" RB.

http://s26.postimg.org/axqyos9rt/DSCN1828.jpg


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[swathdiver]

Anyone here have and shoot 1851 Navies ? I have a Cimarron/Uberti 1851 Navy Ordered, Should have in a week.

Your Uberti is going to use .380 round balls. The '51 Navy is arguably the best balanced, most natural pointer of all single action sixguns. Enjoy!

[docone31]

My'51 Navy is .44. It uses .454 balls. A real sweet shooter for sure.

[doc1876]

I have had 1851 Navys off and on for all of my shooting life, but for some reason can't keep a 51. I always enjoy shooting them. I have several 1860s in .44, and really like shooting them too. I just use the round balls in them.

[Hellgate]

Uberti does not make a 44 cal '51 Navy. Pietta does and ASM did. The Uberti grip is identical to the SAA/'51 Navy original grip so no reshaping is needed.

[StrawHat]

Your Uberti is going to use .380 round balls. The '51 Navy is arguably the best balanced, most natural pointer of all single action sixguns. Enjoy!

Until you use a Model 1861! By far, my favorite C&B revolver.

[Rojelio]

Uberti does not make a 44 cal '51 Navy. Pietta does and ASM did. The Uberti grip is identical to the SAA/'51 Navy original grip so no reshaping is needed.

Uberti did in the past, but, not any more.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb280/rojelio0/IMAG0473_zps013cc494.jpg

[Hellgate]

Rojelio,
Isn't that a Griswald & Gunnison rather than a '51 Navy? You are correct that Uberti no longer makes a navy style 44. We're both kinda right. Good pic showing the Uberti logo.

[swathdiver]

Until you use a Model 1861! By far, my favorite C&B revolver.

True! My Uberti '61 has been apart for so long I forgot how it felt in the hand. It has a stuck cylinder stop and trigger spring screw. One of these days I'll get around to putting some heat on it and get that sixgun back together! Soaking for months in ATF and Kroil didn't work.

[Rojelio]

Rojelio,
Isn't that a Griswald & Gunnison rather than a '51 Navy? You are correct that Uberti no longer makes a navy style 44. We're both kinda right. Good pic showing the Uberti logo.

Yep G&G. I forgot about the round barrel.:bigsmyl2:

[Omnivore]

amberg; It should be excellent (for a 300 dollar gun), though you may need to do some tweaking to get it shooting to point of aim. As was stated already; the Uberti 36 will prefer a .380" ball. The Accurate Molds 38-100C should do well in it too, and the Lee 36 conical would be another choice so long as your gun's loading window will accept it.

I have an Uberti 1861 Navy, which I like a lot, and use the 38-100C in it with a full chamber of 777 or Swiss. The loading ram in my '61 was shaped for the nose of some unknown conical, and so it would bite into a round ball and often drag it right back out of the chamber after seating. I don't know if you'll have a similar problem with your '51, but the ram nose can always be reformed to the desired projectile using epoxy, same as a lot of cartridge reloaders have done with their seating die stems. I reformed mine to the nose of the 38-100C, so now it puts a flat spot on a ball, which is not a problem. At least now it doesn't drag any of the projectiles back out of the chamber.

Everyone's hands are different, but I like the grips of my Pietta '51 Colt and Uberti '61 Colt the best.

[Hellgate]

Swathdiver,
I had the same problem with my '61 Navy Uberti for about 10 years. Finally moved to a house with a workshop vise. I padded the vise and took the gun apart/trigger guard off and mounted the frame upside down in the vise. I sprayed the screw with penetrating oil and with a thin bladed screwdriver and small hammer I was able to twist out the screw as I went taptaptaptaptaptaptaptap on the top of the screwdriver as I torqued both ways on the screw. I will give a little twist to tighten before honking on the twist out just to loosen things up. Prior to getting the screw out I could never get to the innards to do a thorough cleaning so I just cleaned the rest and sprayed WD-40 into the works and called it good. After the 10 years I finally got to the innards and found tons of black mush and several cap fragments but no rust at all. Good luck on getting the screw out. If you break a hand spring you are screwed.

[dagger dog]

Cabela's had the Pietta 1851 Yank, on sale for $169.00 and free shipping. They recommend a 0.375" ball.

Does anyone know the warranty registration web site for Pietta, I'm having a hard time trying to find it ?

The Yank has a brass grip, frame ,walnut stocks, case color main frame, with a deep blue 71/2" barrel.

It has exceeded my expectations as far as fit and finish ,and is spot on timing with a great trigger it I'm chomping at the bit and ready to make some smoke.

Any tips for a first time cap and ball revolver shooter ?

[docone31]

Make sure, the caps fit well, make sure the cylinders are topped with lube. Definately fire caps prior to loading. The only dry chamber was when I left that step out. There was some crud blocking the cap pathway to the powder. That is a good pistol. Find the sweet spot with the powder. Play with the accuracy after you have fired some cylinders of loads. You can widen the hammer notch if needed.

[dagger dog]

"You can widen the hammer notch if needed". I will definitely widen that hammer notch ,with my bad eyesight !
Looks like a strip and detail is in order also.

Which caps 10's or 11's ?

[pietro]

"You can widen the hammer notch if needed". I will definitely widen that hammer notch ,with my bad eyesight !
Looks like a strip and detail is in order also.

Which caps 10's or 11's ?


AFAIK, the only difference between #10 & #11 caps is their depth - the #10 being shorter than the #11.

The #10 caps should fit any capgun with either short or long nipples, but the #11 cap will be too long for consistant ignition in a gun with short(er) nipples.


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[FALaholic]

So I picked up a 1858 Remington Army and I heard so much about the Colt 1860 that I picked up one of those as well. I like the Colt but man that Remington is much nicer IMO. I haven't shot either revolver yet.

[Tar Heel]

Ignore most of the well intentioned but incorrect advise provided above and go shoot your revolver after you READ the enclosed owners manual and follow its recommendations. Having shot these revolvers for the last 40 years and after thousands of rounds through them, I offer that lubricated patches between the powder and ball are superior to over-ball grease. Range data has proven that to be the case. Use the caps & ball size indicated in the owners manual - not what others may say.

So you know, the "Navy" was never produced in 44 caliber by Colt - ever. Pietta has produced one and it is very popular but has generated a lot of misunderstanding regarding the "Navy" revolver. You will certainly enjoy shooting it regardless of the caliber.

125038

[dondiego]

Tar Heel - Do you actually wrap the ball in the patch as per a patched round ball in a rifle or do you just seat the patch under the ball? Interesting.

[Tar Heel]

Tar Heel - Do you actually wrap the ball in the patch as per a patched round ball in a rifle or do you just seat the patch under the ball? Interesting.

Don't encapsulate like a rifle, just load powder, insert a FELT lubricated wad, set and seat the ball so the ball is slightly less than flush with the chamber face.

125041

[Tar Heel]

125043 125044 125045

Powder charged, wad seated, ball set over wad and rammed home.

[Tar Heel]

125046

Homemade lubricated wads for the 1860. I made them for the 36's too.

[Tar Heel]

125047
Homemade wad fixings of mutton tallow, pure felt, pearlized beeswax. You can purchase pre-lubed wads directly from sources like Dixie Gun Works, Track of The Wolf, and I'm sure Midway as well. Making your own helps if you shoot a lot and I shoot a lot.

125048

This is the kind of accuracy you can expect from your Uberti if, and I say if, you load consistently and use over-powder lubed wads instead of Crisco over the ball like most profess. While that is an expedient method, it gums up the works rather quickly and contributes to fouling. That target was shot offhand at 25 yards. 36 shots.

[Tar Heel]

Here are some videos shooting the Uberti 1851 Navy (London) revolver.

http://youtu.be/nghXjkCnbsY

http://youtu.be/8_wl_QrAbtU

http://youtu.be/Au_AUZiZlrk

Enjoy. When you get yours it will be SWEET!

[docone31]

Is there a cartridge that I can use to measure out 30gns? I have a spout, but it seems light. I also have the Lee Dipper kit, but have not seen Pyrodex or Black Powder data for it with fffg. I am pretty sure I am using 25gns now. Might stay with that, but it would be good to know.
I love my .44 Navy wannabe. A comfortable, good shooting, revolver. I almost prefer it to modern pistols.

[Tar Heel]

125050

A list of advantages to using over-powder wads instead of Crisco or other lube in front of the ball which gets blown off anyway.

[Tar Heel]

Is there a cartridge that I can use to measure out 30gns? I have a spout, but it seems light. I also have the Lee Dipper kit, but have not seen Pyrodex or Black Powder data for it with fffg. I am pretty sure I am using 25gns now. Might stay with that, but it would be good to know.
I love my .44 Navy wannabe. A comfortable, good shooting, revolver. I almost prefer it to modern pistols.

Seriously....get over to Track of the Wolf and order one of the Colt style powder flasks with switchable spouts. It's the way to go and well worth the extra bucks. Makes reloading a snap and provides consistency shot to shot. I bought a range of spouts which throw 20-25-30.....you get the picture.

125051

[docone31]

I have one of those, in brass. The spout is supposed to toss 30gns, but looks a little low. I have always had a way to check. My other measure starts at 60gns. I was hoping someone knew of a Lee measure, or other means to check. I can always order one from TOW. I just haven't yet.
At least I am not overloading it and the charges are the same. I use one toss of that, plus a .454 ball. It is pretty good with that load.

[Tar Heel]

I have one of those, in brass. The spout is supposed to toss 30gns, but looks a little low. I have always had a way to check. My other measure starts at 60gns. I was hoping someone knew of a Lee measure, or other means to check. I can always order one from TOW. I just haven't yet.
At least I am not overloading it and the charges are the same. I use one toss of that, plus a .454 ball. It is pretty good with that load.

I think it's all relative anyway. If I put my finger over the spout it's always lower. I have never actually weighed or measured it scientifically or accurately. Not like smokeless anyway. In the 36 it's about 25gr. In the 44's it's about 35gr.

Those measures are helpful and I have pretty much narrowed it down to two measures. I am thinking however, of cutting the charges back to conserve powder and make it last longer. More range time with the pound - if you will.

125073

[StrawHat]

I started shooting C&B revolvers in the 60s and was taught by competitors who used them for years prior to that. Many of the revolvers I shot were original. I was taught to load powder, than an oversized ball. No grease, no wad, just powder and ball. It has been a successful load for all that time. In replicas, I like to see a nice ring shaved off the ball when I seat it.

[docone31]

I just checked my Lee Dipper set. 1.9 is listed at 30.3gns of fffg. Since Pyrodex is loaded same as Black, that should work. Now, I have in mind to get the shorter barrel and loading ram, 5", to make it a snubbie.
I do love this platform to work with.

[Tar Heel]

I just checked my Lee Dipper set. 1.9 is listed at 30.3gns of fffg. Since Pyrodex is loaded same as Black, that should work. Now, I have in mind to get the shorter barrel and loading ram, 5", to make it a snubbie.
I do love this platform to work with.

Pyrodex "P" works just fine in all my BP revolvers unless I booger something up. Goes bang every time with factory or aftermarket cones.

[dondiego]

Don't encapsulate like a rifle, just load powder, insert a FELT lubricated wad, set and seat the ball so the ball is slightly less than flush with the chamber face.

125041

OK, your method is what I currently use. When you said "patch" my mind went to PRB!

[heelerau]

I have a 1972 Uberti London Navy colt, have had it for nearly 30 years. I now understand why Hickok carried a pair. I points beautifully. I have been using it for cowboy action. I use fffg black, with a greased felt over powder wad, .378 ball. Little fouling.

cheers

heelerau

[Battis]

Lube sticks: make up a batch of lube with paraffin, beeswax, Crisco, etc.
Remove the barrel and plug the muzzle.
Pour the lube mixture down the barrel and let it set for a minute or two.
Push it out with a dowel.
Now you have lube sticks from which you can cut lube pills (over or under roundballs) that perfectly fit your gun.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m217/pohill/S4020206_zpsa0281c39.jpg
Original 1851 Colt .36 being fired.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m217/pohill/Picture105_zpse1dc762d.png

[pietro]

Lube sticks: make up a batch of lube with paraffin, beeswax, Crisco, etc.
Remove the barrel and plug the muzzle.
Pour the lube mixture down the barrel and let it set for a minute or two.
Push it out with a dowel.
Now you have lube sticks from which you can cut lube pills (over or under roundballs) that perfectly fit your gun.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m217/pohill/S4020206_zpsa0281c39.jpg





That's pretty neat :happy dance: - Thanks for posting your idea. :drinks:


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[Battis]

As far as cap fit...

From an old Colt Industries pamphlet:
"Percussion caps are now made in sizes from nine to thirteen. Ten and eleven are the best numbers for the small and medium-sized arms, and twelve for the larger sizes, although, as different-sized nipples are sometimes met in specimens of the same model, no hard and fast rule can be given. It is better to have caps slightly too large than too small, as large caps can be pinched together at the bottom enough so they will stay on the nipples, but small ones must be driven down on the nipple by the blow of the hammer, and this process frequently cushions the blow to the extent of producing a misfire."

[dcryder]

I have a remington 36 cal that I shoot a lot. A friend of mine who is a gun smith taught me to shoot the black powder pistol I have way back when. made a scoop for the powder load and on the backside of the scoop was another one for corn meal, both made to premeasure the right amounts of each into the cylinder then the ball with just a small touch of lube on top. so when all said and done the ball was just below the rim of the cylinder. And I have tried many other ways to do this but keep coming back to this powder/cornmeal/ball/lube for me the off hand shooting at 25 yards is a very tight group of a 1" to 1 1/2 might be something for you to try. Also seems not to be as messy either as I can get 18 shoots off before I have to clean the gun.

[bigted]

I started shooting C&B revolvers in the 60s and was taught by competitors who used them for years prior to that. Many of the revolvers I shot were original. I was taught to load powder, than an oversized ball. No grease, no wad, just powder and ball. It has been a successful load for all that time. In replicas, I like to see a nice ring shaved off the ball when I seat it.

hey bubba ... I been shooting these for awhile as well and always used the lard/Crisco over the ball to help lube the bore/cylinder gap/forcing cone.

you use NOTHING? I will have to try this as I think the loading would be so much faster.

another thing I have done is built paper "cartridges" using super glue and cig papers [zig zag]. when I load the powder into the tubes containing a glued on ball on the enclosed end ... I just rip off the twisted "tail" and pour in the powder as I insert the paper into the cylinder and push it so the ball is against the cylinder face and then ram it home ... will cut down my loading time in half easily. they are a hoot to shoot AND the paper is shot out the barrel each time so as to NOT have any smoldering embers to deal with. I have done this for my '61' in 36 cal as well as the '60' in 44 cal works very well but then again ... I use the over ball mess for lube.

so do tell more of your method of no felt, lube cookie, or over ball "Crisco".