darnitt, garand boolit engraving rifling

[labradigger1]

Cant win for losing lately, recently boughta h&r garand that is in cmp select grade from 1999. I have been loading lyman 311334's sprayed with pc and it is outstanding, lyman mould is only a single cavity and anybody with a garand knows a sc mould is'nt going to cut it.
Last week i bought a beautiful brass 4 cavity captive pin mould from noe.
If memory serves it was the 311299, 202 grain. I seasoned the mould through 3 heat cycles and began dropping beautiful boolit after about 6 sets. Now for the problem, my lyman mould cast the bore rider section at just under .299 and the noe drops them at exactly .300 as the spec drawing shows. I powder coat all ammo anymore for many reasons and the lyman works great with the long ogive and it has a .3050 bore rider section with powder coat, the noe is .302 with the shorter ogive and powder coat installed.
When the bolt closes on the noe boolit i get severe rifling engraving on the bore rider section just behind the ogive when powder coated and seated as far a sit will seat under the front driving band. Non powder coated boolits from the noe mould chamber great w/out engraving.
I am fairly certain with the floating firing pin in a garand this would be a terrible problem as the loaded pc'd rounds dont like to chamber all the way due to the engravin. I think it would fire out of battery.
Other than lubing and sizing the tradition way with the star or changing ogive design i am not seeing any alternatives.
Any other thoughts ir ideas what to do next?
ps, dont worry, i am not going to shoot the pc'd rounds in question
Lab

[Outpost75]

Garand firing pin is not floating, but is cam retracted by engagement of its tail in the web cut of the receiver. Firing pin should be flush or below boltface at 7-1/2° rotation.

[Multigunner]

Unfortunately the tail of the firing pin can become deformed if the rear of the bolt impacts the rear of the receiver, due to hot loads or excessive gas port pressure. The bolt itself can become pinged in to jam the pin in the forwards position. Condition of these parts is vital to safety.

[Scharfschuetze]

Perhaps a softer alloy might bring your nose diameter down a bit.

M1s shoot just fine with regular lube. I use the NRA 50/50 Alox blend with a fairly hard gas checked boolit with great success. No leading in either the bore or the gas system at 1,900 fps. Accuracy has been the equal and often better than M2 Ball ammo at any given range in several M1s.

[labradigger1]

Perhaps a softer alloy might bring your nose diameter down a bit.

M1s shoot just fine with regular lube. I use the NRA 50/50 Alox blend with a fairly hard gas checked boolit with great success. No leading in either the bore or the gas system at 1,900 fps. Accuracy has been the equal and often better than M2 Ball ammo at any given range in several M1s.

I have been thinking about that, i have cast 2 alloys for the noe mould,
First alloy is antimony and tin heavy and really fills the mould.
Second alloy was straight ww's with 2% tin and a few extra lino strips to each 10# pot.
Nose is still to large with both alloys pc'd to not engrave rifling.
I am using hollow point pins and need the full 2% of tin to get proper fillout at the noses.

[Scharfschuetze]

Another option might be to try NOE's K31 Swiss rifle mold. It has a smaller than normal bore riding nose for the short throated K31. I tried to buy one during their sale last week for my K31, but they were out of stock. While it means buying another mold, it might be a solution.

My favorite boolit for the M1 is the Lyman 311334. I enjoy slightly less than two MOA with it and it is not engraved (my barrels anyway) by the rifling.

[labradigger1]

Another option might be to try NOE's K31 Swiss rifle mold. It has a smaller than normal bore riding nose for the short throated K31. I tried to buy one during their sale last week for my K31, but they were out of stock. While it means buying another mold, it might be a solution.

My favorite boolit for the M1 is the Lyman 311334. I enjoy slightly less than two MOA with it and it is not engraved (my barrels anyway) by the rifling.

I love my 311334 as well but it is only a single cavity.
I am considering selling my new (almost) brass 4 gang and buying a different one. This option would be ok with me as i purchased this mould especially for the garand to powder coat. If i cannot figure something out it will be in s&s soon. I hope to find a solution as Al makes a brass mould that is just a work of art.
I will check into the k31 mould, thanks

[W.R.Buchanan]

If I was you, I'd just lube and shoot the boolits without the powder coating, which is what I will do if I had that mould..

Randy.