Am I the only one? Lube-sizer stem...

[Chill Wills]

I'm sure I am not the only person that has striped the 1/4" drive off the top of the lube pressure screw on a Lyman or a RCBS lube-sizer.

-We are talking about the top of the 3/8-16 stem that pressurizes the lube. The top of which has a male 1/4" hex drive.-

In the 40+ years of using them I have had the hex corners eventually wear enough to fail and cause the wrench to slip on a few.

RCBS is great about replacing the stem for free. Lyman charges a small amount. You just have to pull the old stem and replace it. The latest greatest RCBS lube-sizerII I think it is has an improved system that uses a hole in the top of the stem and a rod to drive the screw. I only have the older units from each company so I am not too sure.

That brings me to my point. That 1/4"hex is the Achilles heel of the unit. In thinking about building a better mouse trap I have some ideas. Most involve making a longer 3/8-16 stem so a system can be attached to the top that would not rely on the small 1/4 inch drive. I thought about adding to the top of the longer stem a jam nut under a 3/8" coupling nut. After snugging the two of them up tight you could use a box end wrench or drill the coupling nut for a setup like the newer RCBS units use to drive the pressure stem.

So as not to reinvent the wheel I thought I would ask what you have done?

-Chill

[btroj]

I bought a Star

[triggerhappy243]

I use a deep well 6 point socket and 1/4 inch ratchet. sounds like your lube needs to be a little warmer.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Air assist ?

I haven't ventured there, but I know others have talked about it.

[atr]

warmer lube YES....also you can actually crack the pot-metal casting of a Lyman when the lub is too cold and is forced....trust me I know because i learned the hard way.
atr

[Chill Wills]

OK, Thanks for the input but I think we are a little off track here.
I'm looking for modifications to improve the link between the 1/4 hex and the wrench.
Given enough use it wears.

I have a few ideas but I think there are some creative thinkers who have been down this path before. My quick and dirty solution is a longer threaded stem and a removable coupling nut. I am going to build one tonight to see if I like it.

[triggerhappy243]

I use a deep well 6 point socket and 1/4 inch ratchet. no modification required. a 6 point 1/4 inch deep socket ($2.00) grabs the entire hex shaft of that stem... add a 1/4 inch ratchet ($4.00) and spend more time casting and lubing.

[Chill Wills]

I hear you on the socket but I take the pressure off for each bullet and the ratchet does not fit that need at all. I think I am on the right track to get what I want. But, I also think others have good ideas too and want to hear them.

[Don McDowell]

Not the prettiest nor fanciest fix, but, one of those mini pair of vicegrips.....

[Chill Wills]

Not the prettiest nor fanciest fix, but, one of those mini pair of vicegrips.....

Ha! That is what I am replacing! It got down to that:shock: ..... :oops:

Now I am embarrassed Don. Busted. :bigsmyl2:

[triggerhappy243]

if it is an rcbs , call them for a free replacement. been thinking too. if there is any of the hex shaft left intact, napa sells 6 point box end wrenches too.

[Chill Wills]

if it is an rcbs , call them for a free replacement. been thinking too. if there is any of the hex shaft left intact, napa sells 6 point box end wrenches too.

Yup, Got one from RCBS this past week here new and ready to go in but I made a better one tonight and will run it tomorrow to see what still can be improved. That is the point of this thread. ......sharing Ideas from someone that has improved the pressure stem.

[triggerhappy243]

I have very little experience with different lubes. the lubes I have used, i never had to back off the stem... but i do keep the body warm enough so the harder lubes flow. hope your idea works, would like to see pics

[milrifle]

I don't know how you would make it, but I am imagining something like a socket with the 1/4" hex on the inside, but soft enough you could drill and tap it for a set screw. On top of this there would be the normal 1/4" hex male piece for the standard ratchet wrench to fit. You put this adapter on the Lyman stem and tighten the set screw against one of the flats. This adapter becomes the sacrificial piece, not the Lyman stem. Perhaps you could anneal a 1/4" hex drive 1/4" socket enough it could be drilled for the set screw? Just a thought.

[Don McDowell]

[smilie=w: Oh Mr. Wills my appologizies for exposing family secrets....

Howsomever, I'm wondering if you acquire a sufficient replacement stem, would one of these new ratchet wrenches in the proper size not be a suitable tool for adjusting the reservoir stem?

[Chill Wills]

Some back story: Years ago I acquired a lot of Lyman and RCBS lube-sizers and have set them up for every size bullet I commonly load for. I mostly pan lube everything now and rarely use them but that is a relevant statement because I shoot a lot; so the units do get used. Almost all the lube put through them is a very soft BP type lube. The one exception is the LBT Blue I use in some loads and I have a heater under that unit. Therefor trying to force hard lube through a lube-sizer is not an issue.
The new stem is on the left with threads running up 1.75" higher than the replacement from RCBS.

124502Noticing after about 4 decades of using the Lyman and RCBS units that the 1/4" hex is the fail point, I took the pleasure of seeing what I could do about. I understand you can get replacements but just want to mess with this....

The other night I built a new stem for the RCBS that was longer to solve a problem mostly unique to me. The problem is eventually the points of the hex drive on top of the stem round off. If this is a solution without a problem for you; I get it. It has been one for me. Simply using a threading rod won't work because of the 1/2" shoulder needed at the bottom to retain the stem in place.


Because after enough use the drive corners round off the 1/4" hex, something with more surface area than those tine corners would hold and last many times longer. I started by using a longer 3/8" threaded stem to make some useful working area available above the top of the current one. Then using two 3/8" nuts jammed together on a washer, I now have a much larger grip area on both the 3/8" threaded stem and the new larger hex. The hex went from 1/4" to the 9/16 hex jam nut (over kill):shock:.
124503
Not an elegant fix but serviceable. This is version I. I'm sure it can be refined. I have about an hour and a quarter time in it so far.

[Dusty Bannister]

That will work well until you have to remove the centering cap when refilling with lube. I just used the socket and ratchet since day one and have not worn one out yet. I use soft lube, and a drop light to warm the unit before use. The flow is easy, and less stress on the whole unit. I move this process inside in cold months. Dusty

[Chill Wills]

You can't see how to remove the nuts to fill the lube?
I work inside where it is warm and use a heater as needed.
Not sure your point? Maybe I missed it?

[triggerhappy243]

I am guessing the hole in the lube stick must be 3/8 inch.... or you would melt the lube stick into the sizer.

[texassako]

Only thing I would be worried about is the bigger surface to wrench on leads to a bigger wrench with more leverage and the increased chance to break out the bottom of the casting. I would rather replace a failing $6 part.

[Chill Wills]

I am guessing the hole in the lube stick must be 3/8 inch.... or you would melt the lube stick into the sizer.

Yes, the standard lube stick is 1.00" diameter and a 3/8" hole for the stem. Saeco sticks are 1.00" and no hole. No need to melt sticks. Melted lube can be poured into the sizer and is an easy way to fill it with your own lube or use bulk lube like SPG or Eagle.

[Chill Wills]

Only thing I would be worried about is the bigger surface to wrench on leads to a bigger wrench with more leverage and the increased chance to break out the bottom of the casting. I would rather replace a failing $6 part.

Yup, totally agree. I have a short handled wrench for it and as always, one has to feel what they are doing. The ham handed types are always breaking things.