.223 to 300 BLK. To Anneal Or Not To Anneal

[BulletFactory]

That is the question...

I've done a bit of conversions from 30-06 to .308, learning just a little bit about annealing. Seems that as soon as you remove the shoulder, case neck trimming and annealing become necessary steps.

I have been watching videos about reloading this thing, and I dont see anyone annealing the cases. Is it needed with the 300?

Sorry if this has been asked and answered here, I haven't been reloading this year. So busy. I just discovered the 300 Blackout as a suppressed weapon, and I like it. I prefer the M-14 to the M-4 platform, they just fit me better. Always kinda wanted an AR, they are nice rifles, I just dont want to mess around with a jacked up .22. sry. :popcorn:

Thought about an AR in .308 but I dunno, no. But this 300BLK, I like it. All the benefits of the AR, but they actually use a bullet that will go through a cinder block. Plus, I can use the same rounds in the AR as I do the M1A!

[Omega]

Some do and some don't. I have plenty of brass so I don't bother, I have not run into any split necks yet but then again I have only run each case around 6 or 7 times so far. Use LC brass and you should be fine with or without the annealing, oh and I recommend a Sheridan slotted gauge; it will save all kinds of headaches.

[BulletFactory]

I like Hodgdon H-4895 in the .308, has anyone used that powder in this round?

[Omega]

I like Hodgdon H-4895 in the .308, has anyone used that powder in this round?
Not that I am aware of. Here is a good link to 300Blk general info: http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=86656

[GRUMPA]

I've processed perhaps over 1mil 300BO cases. Some of the ones folks send me for processing do in fact get neck splits after only a single use. Some folks say they never anneal the case and seems to work for them. Out of all the brass I process I would say at least 97% get annealed. What happens is a more uniform neck tension and believe it or not the primer pocket generally is the first to go out.

So here's the final story.....If your happy with non-annealed brass by all means go with it. If you notice erratic pressure signs, accuracy suffering, split necks, consider annealing the cases.

[HATCH]

I use 1680 powder.
And I use Grumpa's brass cases that have been annealed.
Haven't had any issues at all.

[Omega]

I've processed perhaps over 1mil 300BO cases. Some of the ones folks send me for processing do in fact get neck splits after only a single use. Some folks say they never anneal the case and seems to work for them. Out of all the brass I process I would say at least 97% get annealed. What happens is a more uniform neck tension and believe it or not the primer pocket generally is the first to go out.

So here's the final story.....If your happy with non-annealed brass by all means go with it. If you notice erratic pressure signs, accuracy suffering, split necks, consider annealing the cases.
Well there you go, seems like a better track record than I could ever produce.

[BulletFactory]

I'd be uneasy NOT annealing. It's such a habit.

[BulletFactory]

I like Hodgdon H-4895 in the .308, has anyone used that powder in this round?

I should have specified that I want a subsonic round. I was hoping to use the 168 gr SMK BTHP and H-4895 powder and bullet that I use in the .308. It would be nice to use the same round and powder in both.

[BulletFactory]

^ is that possible? Why or why not? It would help me get my head back into reloading again.

[Sgtonory]

4895 is going to be to slow for sub work. Try a magnum pistol powder or really fast rifle powder.

[BulletFactory]

Ok I believe you, but why?

I like to know how and why things work.