Lyman 450 die retainer nut casting thread repair.

[yeahbub]

Recently, I was sizing some boolits which were sticky coming out of the sizer and after a while, the die retainer nut ripped out of the lubrisizer without even trying hard. This particular 450 always had threads in the casting which seemed to lack depth, engagement, and were prone to cross-threading on installation. I think they were marginal all along, but now they've ripped free and I need to fix it. I'm certain I'm not the only one this has happened to, so this has been tackled before and I need words of wisdom on how best to effect the repair. Words of wisdom, anyone?

[littlejack]

yeahbub:
I have the same Lyman 450. Have been using it for about 4.5 decades.
I have heard of this happening. The fix that I also heard, was to drill and tap a couple of holes into the side of the casting, where set screws can be tightened into the sides of the nut. These should be across from each other. Probably at least 120* to 180*This should be an easy fix if you are mechanically inclined.
Regards
Jack

[yeahbub]

Thanks for the suggestion, Littlejack. You've had that thing for 45 years? I've only had this one for 20 or so. Set screws are one possibility, but wouldn't that allow lube to leak out through the threads? This would not allow for the die to be held forcibly down to seal against the bottom hole to prevent leakage. A helicoil, maybe? This may have the same leakage problem, and the thread rate is probably not commonly used in that diameter, so a helicoil may not be available that the nut can screw into. I was thinking more along the lines of opening up the stripped hole in the casting and brazing or silver-soldering a ring in place which has a much closer fit on the nut threads, possibly with a flange on the inside for a positive mechanical lock to prevent stress on the solder joint. I wonder if such a threaded collar could be worked into the lower chamber through the cylinder. . .

[Boolit_Head]

I'd give Lyman a jingle before getting drastic, might be worth seeing what they will do.

[JCherry]

Yeahbub,

This thread might help some.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?145614-Another-Lyman-450-Issue-Sizing-Die-Retainer-Nut-Size&highlight=sleeve+450

Have Fun,

JCherry

[W.R.Buchanan]

These threads were probably concocted for this specific use. There is no rule on custom threads. They are delineated by the major diameter and pitch. IE .1656-37 , Which is the Ejector Screw on a #4 Enfield.This one just happens to be a BA Thread. British something?

I doubt you will find a tap, and I know for sure there aren't any Helicoils that size. So your final option is to make a tap or have someone make one for you which should only cost you about $150.

Take a piece of O1 Rod and turn the OD to whatever the OD of the Lyman Retainer Nut is + about .005. Thread it to your required pitch. Put it in a mill and cut a few relief grooves in the sides and deburr it.

Since you are not creating new threads and are simply chasing old threads this should be good enough. It doesn't need to be heat treated since you are chasing Cast Iron and not making new threads.

This has always been the weak part of these tools. The way around having to do all this is to pay damn close attention when threading the nut back in the hole.. Obviously it is easy to screw up, and not easy to fix.

One thing you can do is leave the die sticking up above and put the nut onto it and then push the whole mess down. This keeps the nut strait while you attempt to thread it back in the hole with your finger tips only.

Randy

[triggerhappy243]

send it back to lyman for the lifetime warranty.

[Pavogrande]

I think you will find all efforts to repair the threads are complicated by the smaller diameter of the ram bore and the lack of space between the ram boss and and the main die body --
It will be difficult to work through the smaller bore. Setting up to single point a new thread in the body will require skills above my paygrade.
I don't think there is enough meat in the body casting to use a set screw as the #45 sizer -
I have tried to envision a practical solution for this but so far - no joy
My guess is that lyman's solution will be to replace the body -
Hard to understand why lyman used such a fine thread and so few threads for this application --

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Recently, I was sizing some boolits which were sticky coming out of the sizer and after a while, the die retainer nut ripped out of the lubrisizer without even trying hard. This particular 450 always had threads in the casting which seemed to lack depth, engagement, and were prone to cross-threading on installation. I think they were marginal all along, but now they've ripped free and I need to fix it. I'm certain I'm not the only one this has happened to, so this has been tackled before and I need words of wisdom on how best to effect the repair. Words of wisdom, anyone?

I know there are some folks here that prefer the 450 and 4500 over the older model 45...of course I'm not one of them.

Here is my wisdom? let's call it my opinion :)
Fixing the old casting will be more expensive than a New casting from Lyman ($120 if there webpage is current), unless you have some machining talents and access to a Lathe/Mill...OR a friend who is a machinist. Getting any repair to be perfectly aligned with the ram will take "Skills", that's for sure.

Now, I just seen this model 45 sell on fleabay, seller claimed "unused" for $100
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-UNUSED-LYMAN-IDEAL-NO-45-BULLET-LUBRICATOR-amp-SIZER-IN-BOX-amp-PAPER-WORK-/161504378238?ssPageName=ADME%3AB%3AEOIBSA%3AUS%3A3 160&nma=true&si=4zCMyyqljX9O42s%252B9S2MWUwnjzI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557