Thinking of getting rid of my autos

[tomme boy]

I have been fighting back problems my whole life. In the last few years it has been to the point of not even shooting my autos anymore. I have a hard time picking up the brass. I have been thinking of going to all revolvers. Problem is, I know nothing about them.

I had a Taurus M66 4" in 357 mag years ago. Only had it a few years. I only used it for hunting deer one year and got the deer. That is all I have ever messed with one. And it was factory ammo.

I know I want one with adjustable sights. But I can not afford a S&W. How are the Taurus revolvers now a days? Looking to spend about $500 max

[Alablam]

You might look at used weapons in the price range you're interested in. Don't forget Ruger's Security-Six. They are strong and accurate devils and will likely wear out numerous owners when fed lead. Also Ruger's Blackhawk tribe of revolvers are plenty good as well.

[jmort]

You can never go wrong with a Blackhawk. In your price range. I have only owned revolvers. I have had bad luck with Taurus revolvers. Revolvers are easier to load for compared to semi-autos.

[Lead Fred]

We had a Taurus 44 mag, the only thing they got right in the name was BULL, it was full of it.

If I had my buds custom Ruger, Id sell off my Sig P220 in a heartbeat.

Not a handgun fan at all. Id make an exception for a Model 29a S&W 44, or that Sig

[daniel lawecki]

The Blackhawks are great also throw in the Ruger GP100.

[contender1]

Before you sell off your autos due to chasing brass,,, have you looked at the nifty tool for picking up brass W/O bending over? I can't recall the name (for sure) but they are listed in the Dillon catalog as "the Brass Magnet" I THINK. Basically it's a pole, with an oval shaped wire rolling basket that the wires spread & pick up brass.
I own one & it does save a LOT of bending over. It comes with a neat little wire accessory that hangs on the side of a bucket. I use a square sided cat litter bucket & it works great.
You just roll it gently over the ground over the brass & the brass spreads the wires & snaps upward into the center. When you get a dozen or two pieces in the center, using the bucket with the spreader, dump the captured brass.

Just an idea.

And, BTW I'm a serious revolver guy myself. But I also own a gun range where USPSA competition happens. I get to pick up a fair amount of left behind brass.

[Petrol & Powder]

Revolvers have a lot going for them and they can be both useful tools and fun guns. When compared to S&W or Ruger, Taurus quality seems to be inconsistent, with the newer model revolvers leaning towards more often poor in quality. I owned an older Taurus .357 that was decent but after shooting a few other models (some mine own, some not) I decided they were not worth the risk of purchasing. It appears that they can make a good gun but they don't always pull it off.

I would strongly suggest looking for a good used Ruger or S&W. I totally agree with Alablam, a good Ruger Security-six is an excellent choice. There was a time when a savvy shooter could pick up a Ruger Security-six for less money than a good used S&W and get a very good gun for the money. Unfortunately the secret seems to be out and the Six' series Rugers are getting harder to find. The GP100 is heavier but if you don't mind the extra mass, it's also an excellent gun.

In the vast S&W camp you will find just about every possible variation you desire and some of them are outstanding revolvers.

Learn how to examine a used revolver. Teach yourself some discipline so that when you spot a worn or damaged revolver for sale you will be able to make an appropriate offer or just decline the purchase.

If you take your time and resist the urge to buy a gun just because it's there and you have the money, you can find some very good used revolvers. My advice is that you sit down and write up the criteria of exactly what you want BEFORE you start looking (caliber, barrel length, finish, type of sights, etc. ) and only buy what you want. Don't buy what someone else has for sell just because it's available, buy what you want!

As for the adjustable sights, that's a personal decision but I actually prefer fixed sights on most revolvers. Fixed sights are better than a lot of people will give them credit for and you never have to worry about the adjustment :?

Good luck !

[tazman]

I have a Taurus tracker 6.5 inch 7 shot 357mag that I think the world of. It is accurate and reliable. It eats anything I can get in the cylinder and groups better than I do. It has a few boolit preferences but nothing serious.
I mostly shoot 38 specials in it and it is a really fun gun to shoot. The trigger was a little heavy at the start but after several thousand rounds is really smooth.

[MT Gianni]

Plenty of used smiths on gunbroker that will beat a Taurus all to pieces, many are in your price range. There are a couple of different devices that pick up brass for bottom feeders, IIRC they aren't a lot of money.

[Cornbread]

I own two Taurus Raging Bulls in 454 Casull that are almost 20 years old now and have owned several 357s of theirs over the years. It's a cr@p shoot with Taurus. The two I kept are the most accurate double actions I have ever owned and they have functioned flawlessly over 1000s of rounds but my best friend bought a Tuarus just a few months after I bought one of the ones I kept and I have never in my life seen a gun have so many problems. It was a complete piece of junk. Yet my first 357 from them I bought 25 years ago and it was an amazing gun. I learned to reload on it and shot literally tens of thousands of rounds through it from 38 special level to "oops I'm learning to reload" bulge your primers 357 levels. That gun was awesome! Remembering that I bought another one 4 years ago and it was just OK, the gun was just sloppy, no where near the quality of the first one. I sold it less than a year after that.

Given that Taurus is so hit and miss I switched to buying BFRs and Rugers. BFRs are out of your listed price range, but Rugers aren't. Rugers have issues but they aren't of the cheap problem type that Taurus has. For 30 dollars at my local smith I can have the tight cylinder issues trued up and I just budget that into the price when I go to buy one. There is a guy on the board here who does it for around that price as well.

You could get a Ruger convertible Blackhawk in 357/9mm for what you are looking to spend (it may end up being used or you could find a deal) and that would give you the ability to shoot 38 special, 357, and 9mm all in one gun.

[rintinglen]

Given your financial limits, I'd look for a good used S&W. Now my personal experience with Taurus Revolvers has been good, but I have heard too many people, including a few whose opinion I respect, state that they have had problems. Still. I have generally found the snubby 38s to be on a par with the Rugers and S&Ws. Their autos I do not recommend. There are literally hundreds of thousands of good S&W 38's out there that can be had for what you are looking to spend. The magnums and N-frames are priced out of your price range, but I have seen several k-frame 38's priced under 450$.
I will observe that the Tracker models seem to be a cut above the average. Both I and my brother currently have 44 mag Trackers, and while I doubt that they could stand up to regular heavy use with magnums, mine shoots 44 Specials most of the time. I have about 500 rounds through mine and it seems fine, though I must confess that only about 1 in 10 were magnums...and that ratio is likely to decrease not increase.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

Personally, I would opt to chuck the shell shucker in the first place, then choose a Blackhawk or a Security Six or GP-100, but if you want a Smith and Wesson then my advice to you is sell, save and shop until you get what you want. There are deals to be made out there if you keep an eye on gunsamerica and gunbroker.

Cast, shoot and repeat.

[tomme boy]

We shoot at a range that is gravel. So the brass magnet will not work. What are the things you look for in a revolver that is used. What are the wear points and stress points that show abuse, tons of rounds, or just junk?

[twc1964]

Go for the new model blackhawk. I bought a 4 5/8 model in 357 for 389.00 at a gun show in fw tx. It appeared to have not been shot much at all and balances well in the hand. Also, you would be hard pressed to wear on out, no matter what loads you ran through it, sane loads that is. Lol

[Alablam]

We shoot at a range that is gravel. So the brass magnet will not work. What are the things you look for in a revolver that is used. What are the wear points and stress points that show abuse, tons of rounds, or just junk?

__________________________________________________ ____________
Essentially look for wobble where there shouldn't be any (cylinder, crane etc.) and bring a set of feeler gauges and check the gap between cylinder and barrel. On older magnum Smiths before they started heat treating the frames (I think older than 25 years) check for flame cutting of the top straps and lower barrel shank on the M-19. Recoil junkies and slow ball powder might not have been too kind to some Smiths.

[Groo]

Groo here
Keep the autos if you can,
Find a Smith ,Colt , or Ruger 357 used and you will be fine.
PS Be advised that 9mm and 45acp can often be found cheaper than 38 or 357.
A revolver that shoots either or both [ ruger convertables or S&W 25/625s] will be the best of both worlds.....

[M-Tecs]

if you don't run and gun these should work. http://www.ctkprecision.com/universal-brass-catcher.aspx

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/771785/caldwell-universal-brass-trap?cm_vc=subv1771785

[paul h]

I've had mixed results with Taurus, I'd say if you could up your budget a tad you could get a new stainless ruger GP-100 and have an outstanding DA revolver.

On the flip side, for not much money you can put together a brass catcher so you don't need to bend over and otherwise chase empties.

[dubber123]

I prefer revolvers myself. I don't care for chasing brass, but the accuracy advantage revolvers hold over most autos is their biggest draw to me. I haven't come across many autos that will shoot in 1.5" or less at 25 yds., but thats reasonably common in a quality revolver with good loads. My last 1952 Mfg. pre model 14 K-38 cost me $365 less than a year ago from Gunbroker. I did have to firelap it, but it has also given me quite a few .75" 25 yard groups since.

[shooting on a shoestring]

Tomme boy to answer your question in #13, when I shop for used revolvers, I stick with Ruger, Smith or Colt. There are very few problem guns that wear those names.

After that I check the crown, don't want to see any ding, flat spot or anything not uniform.

With the cylinder closed a Ruger or Smith should have barely discernible cylinder play forward and backward. A Colt DA will have more by design.

Rotational play should be less than 1/4 of a primer diameter, but there must be some so expect it to be there.

Next with the gun verified to be unloaded, I slowly pull the trigger in DA or slowly cock the hammer SA while lightly impeding the cylinder rotation with my other hands fingers. I want to see/feel/hear the cylinder lock up before or just at the instant the hammer falls in DA or when the hammer cocks in SA. If the hammer falls in DA or cocks in SA and the cylinder isn't locked or can be rotated backward, pass on it.

For or barrel to cylinder gap, look at a couple of new revolvers. A used one should look the same. If you have a feeler gauge, expect used revovlers to be in the neighborhood of 0.006" to 0.010". Anything larger than 0.010" should be left with the present owner. I once had a high mileage specimen that I shot out to 0.013". It started having problems hitting the primer in DA. It got fixed by a trip to S&W for less than $100 and I was very happy considering the gun was a bit loose when I got it and I shot a HUGE number of rounds through it. It's now a great shooter again and I'm not young enough to wear it out that far again.

After that, it's a look at grips and finish. Grips can be changed easily and can make a big difference in how the gun looks and feels. Grips are fairly cheap. The guns finish is not a big deal to me. I expect a used gun to have some blueing wear, some scratches and if old enough some freckles or even some pits. That's a bargaining point to me.

The chambers should all be unblemished and smooth inside. Any rust pits there can make for hard extraction. The barrel can have lots of roughness or pitting and still shoot great.

Check the the front sight blade. It should be straight up. If the rear sight is adjustable it'll probably be close to centered, or run real far to the right. Right handers tend to push their shots left and crank the sight to the right to compensate. So don't be bothered if the rear sight is severely adjusted, it's rarely an indication of a gun problem.

Next think to look at is the price tag. I often see those out of adjustment.

A used revolver is a is a slight gamble. Of course you can traded it latter if it doesn't suit you and you won't loose all your money.

Best of luck in the hunt.

[Petrol & Powder]

There are several good write-ups on how to inspect a DA revolver. The basics steps involve examining the bore & forcing cone, timing, lock-up, end shake, barrel to cylinder gap, cylinder alignment, checking for "push-off" in single action, checking for a bent ejector rod, general operation, condition of sights and general fit & finish. It's too much to go into here but I'd suggest you research the procedures.
I've also seen some good YouTube videos that cover basic pre-purchase revolver inspection.
Some collectors get caught up in small details but they're in a different market.
A good shooting, used revolver can often be found at reasonable prices. I would avoid guns with signs of abuse such as badly damaged cylinder locking notches, damaged muzzles and clearly bent cranes. Some types of wear/damage can easily be repaired and a smart buyer will use those flaws to negotiate a lower price.
The more you handle revolvers the quicker you will learn to pick up on flaws.

[OTThomas]

Well I would personally recommend a nice used smith model 10 because my dad and I are convinced they are one of if not the best center fire handgun design ever produced (plus being able to load 38 for about as cheap as 22 makes them even more fun). But I see you want something with adjustable sights and I think a nice condition used model 15 would be the ticket. That is still well within your price range and will be a great shooting handgun, plus it's a smith so it would have a better chance of holding it's value.

[brtelec]

You could get one of these to pick up brass.

http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1310

[Low Budget Shooter]

Tomme Boy, I did the very thing you are describing a couple years ago. It was not due to back problems---I just decided I was not going to spend the rest of my life picking up brass. Dumping the cylinder out in the coffee I am just happier!

You might re-read dubber's post above. If my budget were $500, I could pick out a nice old S&W revolver, maybe even a K38 Masterpiece, and have money left over for primers and powder. My actual budget, however, is about 14 cents, so I'm thankful for the guns I have!

LBS

[MarkP]

You may want to look at a S&W M 67; it is stainless steel and has adj sights. The 67 is a M 64 with adj sights or a SS version of a M15, a 64 is a stainless steel version of a M 10. You can find these at reasonalby prices usually former Law Enforcement / Security. (The 67's are 38 SPL's so that could be a drawback depending on your intended purpose) Most of the time these guns have some external wear on them from carry and have been shot very little. The SS guns can be cleaned up easily at home as compared to a blued revolver. IMO it would require less time and money to make a SS revolver look good as compared to fixing up a blued revolver.

[FergusonTO35]

A bit less than $500.00 will get you a really nice GP-100 with adjustable sights and 4 or 6 inch tube. Sadly the half lug versions exceed that even used.

[gpidaho]

tomme boy: I have thousands of rounds through my GP-100, love that revolver and the BH and RH are very good also , I own 5 Ruger revolvers and though there are prettier guns few are more reliable for the $500 range. GP

[tomme boy]

I do not like the single action revolvers. I stopped at a local shop and they had a S&W K 357 for sale. It was in about 65% condition on the finish. It was very solid and no play anywhere on it. But $750 on consignment. No thanks.

[Petrol & Powder]

tomme boy: I have thousands of rounds through my GP-100, love that revolver and the BH and RH are very good also , I own 5 Ruger revolvers and though there are prettier guns few are more reliable for the $500 range. GP

Personally, I think the Rugers are pretty; in their own tough, totally reliable and functional way.

And I completely agree that they are excellent revolvers. When you look at cost, strength, durability, accuracy and design; the Ruger DA revolvers are outstanding. For the money and value, It's hard to beat a GP-100 or better yet, an old Security-Six or Service-Six.

[Petrol & Powder]

tomme boy, I'm with you - not a big single action kind of guy. Nothing wrong with them and I've had a few and still have a couple but I much prefer a good DA revolver.

[gpidaho]

As I'm sure you know the GP-100 and the Redhalk are double action. Son-inlaw just bought the special order 5 inch 357 GP-100 the stacking of the double action trigger is one of the best I've ever shot. GP

[Cord]

I personally do not think you will ever see a Colt revolver in your $500 price range.

The older Ruger “sixes” are very solid and a comfortable size, but are becoming pricey.

Speed or Service Sixes are going for around $500 or more. Sure do miss the one I sold.

The GP100s are larger and heavier, but I will buy one if I can find a Wiley Clapp version.

Desirable K Smiths are bringing higher prices now because many don’t want the lock models,
and this is especially true for the older adjustable sight .357 magnums.

The best buy around may be a fixed sight Model 10 .38spl – a friend just bought one
he found through Armslist that is 90% + for $375 and it is as tight as a tick.
Bud’s online has Police trade-in M10s at 70 – 80% condition for $319.00
but you get what you get, sight unseen.

[charlie b]

I also would not get rid of my autos. In fact I did not. But I also have two revolvers that I like to shoot a lot just for the reason you point out.

I have my Python and a Ruger SP101. I would buy just about any Ruger of size and type you want. I have always wanted a Security Six for truck duty and fun shooting.

I keep my autos around for SD duty whenI dont want to carry the little Ruger.

[contender1]

Ok, a brass wizard isn't an option. (I have some gravel on my range as well & it works ok, but I do get some gravel as well when I use it to pick up brass.

You apparently have made your mind up to get a revolver, and that's perfectly fine.
You have mentioned you do not care for the Single-Action revolvers, again, perfectly fine.

You seem to have settled on the idea of a double-action revolver. Now look at all the excellent advice above about the various quality makers of them. Ruger, S&W seem to top the list.
As noted, due to the S&W changes with the locks, etc, many want the older S&W's over the new ones, making the prices of the S&W DA revolvers creep higher. Similar things in Ruger with the "Six" series of DA revolvers.

My suggestion is to keep shopping around. There are still very fair deals out there. I'm currently assisting a friend in selling off his collection, and we have a 629 Classic 44 mag and a good shooter in a Model 10 for sale. The model 10 is only $300 locally. If I ship it, It'll add $20. (I'm not trying to make a sale here, but rather making a point.)
Shop, study, & find what YOU desire.

[bangerjim]

I made a case catcher for all my "ejector" guns (rifles and semi-s). Works 95% of the time to catch that flying brass. The guys at my right really appreciate it also!!!

Just a plastic storage tub i mounted on a tripod style stand I had. Something like a fold-up music stand would with a little "yankee ingenuity" rolled in! Once postitined at my shooting station correctly most of the flying brass is caught. Add some weight to the bottom of the stand or you will have a kite in the wind!!!

But I REALLY like revolvers!

banger

[GoodAlloy]

What you do is keep the autos. Find some youngsters that would like to shoot some and let them. They would be more than happy to help with the brass policing in exchange for your wisdom and kindness in sharing your hobby with them. In this process you also help to build a following among the next generation for our passion. Who knows these youngings might become true freinds that could bless you in many more ways than simply picking up your spent brass.
Win/Win in my book. Oh any by the way buy a revolver anyhow. Everyone should have at least one.

[Char-Gar]

Tomme boy to answer your question in #13, when I shop for used revolvers, I stick with Ruger, Smith or Colt. There are very few problem guns that wear those names.

After that I check the crown, don't want to see any ding, flat spot or anything not uniform.

With the cylinder closed a Ruger or Smith should have barely discernible cylinder play forward and backward. A Colt DA will have more by design.

Rotational play should be less than 1/4 of a primer diameter, but there must be some so expect it to be there.

Next with the gun verified to be unloaded, I slowly pull the trigger in DA or slowly cock the hammer SA while lightly impeding the cylinder rotation with my other hands fingers. I want to see/feel/hear the cylinder lock up before or just at the instant the hammer falls in DA or when the hammer cocks in SA. If the hammer falls in DA or cocks in SA and the cylinder isn't locked or can be rotated backward, pass on it.

For or barrel to cylinder gap, look at a couple of new revolvers. A used one should look the same. If you have a feeler gauge, expect used revovlers to be in the neighborhood of 0.006" to 0.010". Anything larger than 0.010" should be left with the present owner. I once had a high mileage specimen that I shot out to 0.013". It started having problems hitting the primer in DA. It got fixed by a trip to S&W for less than $100 and I was very happy considering the gun was a bit loose when I got it and I shot a HUGE number of rounds through it. It's now a great shooter again and I'm not young enough to wear it out that far again.

After that, it's a look at grips and finish. Grips can be changed easily and can make a big difference in how the gun looks and feels. Grips are fairly cheap. The guns finish is not a big deal to me. I expect a used gun to have some blueing wear, some scratches and if old enough some freckles or even some pits. That's a bargaining point to me.

The chambers should all be unblemished and smooth inside. Any rust pits there can make for hard extraction. The barrel can have lots of roughness or pitting and still shoot great.

Check the the front sight blade. It should be straight up. If the rear sight is adjustable it'll probably be close to centered, or run real far to the right. Right handers tend to push their shots left and crank the sight to the right to compensate. So don't be bothered if the rear sight is severely adjusted, it's rarely an indication of a gun problem.

Next think to look at is the price tag. I often see those out of adjustment.

A used revolver is a is a slight gamble. Of course you can traded it latter if it doesn't suit you and you won't loose all your money.

Best of luck in the hunt.

That is a very good short course on buying used sixguns and I only disagree with the part that says "A used revolver is a slight gamble". If you check the sixgun over well and don't get caught up in the "got to have it" impulse, there is no gamble. If there is any doubt, put it down and walk away.

I would also add to check for any gaps or play between the cylinder crane and the frame. There should be little or no movement when side pressure is put on the cylinder. While uncommon, used revolver do show up with the crane bent from folks snapping the cylinder closed with a flick of the wrist like they see on TV and in movies.

I also agree with those that said, stick to Smith and Wesson and Rugers. I like old Colts, but they are somewhat more fragile and more often found with issues. For the novice, best stick to Smiths and Rugers.

[GabbyM]

You can buy S&W 38 Special police trade ins for $350 all day long. Model 10 and 15's are absolutely fantastic revolvers.

[Geezer in NH]

I have been fighting back problems my whole life. In the last few years it has been to the point of not even shooting my autos anymore. I have a hard time picking up the brass. I have been thinking of going to all revolvers. Problem is, I know nothing about them.

I had a Taurus M66 4" in 357 mag years ago. Only had it a few years. I only used it for hunting deer one year and got the deer. That is all I have ever messed with one. And it was factory ammo.

I know I want one with adjustable sights. But I can not afford a S&W. How are the Taurus revolvers now a days? Looking to spend about $500 max

Duh! Trade for the S&W's you want with the autos you have

[tomme boy]

I'm not going to just give away my pistols I have now. I will have to sell outright. I see what guys do to just get a new gun and the dealer just shakes their head like I believe he actually took that offer. Sorry, not going to happen. I am going to keep my CZ75 compact for my EDC. But my Citadel 1911 is going to be sold along with a couple of moulds for it. I also have a bunch of mags and about 2 1/2 USPS Med FRB's of brass.

[DR Owl Creek]

Tomme,

Sorry to hear about your problems!

I've had 4 Taurus revolvers over the years, and never had a problem with any of them. One was a Taurus 617 7 shot snub nosed 357. I liked it a lot, even though I usually just used 38 Spc ammo in it. I gave it to my daughter when she moved away. I would buy another one if I found it, and had the money in my pocket.

One was a Taurus 608 8 shot 357, which was built on the 44 frame. It was large, heavy, accurate, and had a trigger almost as good as my S&W 629, which is the revolver I compare all others to. I sold it to a buddy of mine.

Another was a Raging Bull in 454. It had a 5 inch barrel with a case colored frame and blued cylinder and barrel. That model was only made in 1999, I believe. I let another buddy talk me out of that one. I still miss it.

The last one was a Taurus 85 snubby in 38 Spc. I had Crimson Trace laser grips on it. I let my ex keep it to use for CCW when we split up.

On the other hand, another buddy got a Taurus 22 mag revolver for his wife. The trigger pull was so heavy that she couldn't even shoot it. It went back to the factory twice, and they could never get it right. He eventually sold it for a loss.

I've also seen new, in the box "Taurii" on the shelf in several places that were totally locked up. You couldn't even pull the trigger, or swing the cylinder out on some of them. I don't know if they had timing problems, or what could have caused that.

Despite my personal experience, I don't know if I would recommend a Taurus to a friend. I think I would save my money, and keep looking for a good, slightly used S&W or Ruger instead.

Dave

[charlie b]

I am torn on the Taurus thing too. I have had two nice ones, .38 and .357 snubbies. Friend has a full size .357. All have very nice triggers and shot well. I traded off the snubbies, then wanted another one and could not get it. Seemed that Taurus would simply make a run of guns, sell them to dealers, then not make any for a while, even if a dealer wanted another one. So, ended up an SP101. Nice gun and more substantial than the little Taurus, but, the trigger is not as good. Serves my needs.

Would I recommend them to someone who doesn't know guns? No. If someone knows guns, then they can look at the ones in the shop and decide for themselves. I would not buy one over the net, I'd want to handle and inspect it first. But, that goes for most guns I buy.

[str8shot426]

I have a taurus 66 6". I paid under $500 new from lgs. I can't say it is a great gun, but I am not disapointed. I had some work done to it to tune it to my liking.
I heard about taurus issues and gave the gun the "used revolver" check when buying it new. It weeded out a bad one, but shouldn't have to be done.

I also have a Ruger BH convertible in .357mag/9mm. I paid $400 dollars for it. This is a great gun.

There are deals to be had, keep looking and be patient.

[tomme boy]

Went by the range today and there was a guy there with a new Ruger GP101 6" SS model. He let me shoot it. It had a really nice trigger. I may have found the one I want.

[jmort]

My next revolver will be a blue GP100 6".

[JWFilips]

TommyB:
I started shooting My S&W wheel guns and forgot about my autos ( yes I still shoot them on occasion but I did not sell them) You can't have too many guns!........... But it is so nice ...especially in the winter ( when the back doesn't respond to the "Up -Down...Up - Down"!)
However ; When the weather is warm and the planets align, out come the 45, 40 and the host of 7.65 antique autos!....I pick up what I can then the undaunting task of "I have to reload these suckers"!:bigsmyl2:

[tomme boy]

I have not hardly even shot my 45 this year. I just got tired of chasing the brass. I shot rifles mostly the whole year. I just put it up for sale in the sale section. Alone with some moulds and mags and holster and I also have a bunch of brass too.

[JWFilips]

I have not hardly even shot my 45 this year. I just got tired of chasing the brass. I shot rifles mostly the whole year. I just put it up for sale in the sale section. Alone with some moulds and mags and holster and I also have a bunch of brass too.
I kind of understand...I too have shot my rifles 90% of my range trips this year

[Doc1]

Tomme,

I own - and have owned - a lot of handguns, both autos and revolvers. In my case, besides enjoying shooting, my guns are an investment and part of my retirement, so while I'm not a dealer I've probably handled and owned more guns than the average bear.

First, if you are on a budget, I recommend buying used. Unlike a lot of consumer goods, most firearms don't see a lot of use. Sure, some owners put a lot of hard use on their weapons, but an amazing percentage of handguns spend most of their lives in someone's nightstand. There is no reason for me to go over the good tips on inspecting used revolvers that are already on this thread as that's been adequately covered, but I can offer some buying suggestions. Try hitting the local gun shows in your area and seek out tables with private sellers. They will usually be more open to bargaining. This is not a knock at the FFL holders, but those guys are dealers running a business. They have to look more closely at the bottom line. Private sellers may just be hobbyists or someone liquidating an estate and can be very flixible on price. Additionally, look for walk-ins trying to sell their guns on the floor. Often, the longer those guys walk around, the lower their bottom line becomes. The economy is in rough shape and, at least here on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, I'm seeing a lot of good deals at the local shows. If possible, take an experienced friend along with you to double check your choices.

One of the least expensive, quality revolvers you can find will be a Smith & Wesson Model 10 or pre-Model 10. Good ones generally go for $250 to $350, though you can often do better with hard bargaining. I bought a decent, nickle, pre-model 10 a couple of years ago for $135 from a gun show walk-in. If I was limited to only one revolver to do everything from hunting to defense, it would have to be the venerable Ruger GP100 in .357. This is going to cost you more than a Model 10, but it's one of the world's strongest revolvers, is easy to field strip and will probably outlast your grandchildren.

Beat regards
Doc

[Petrol & Powder]

The GP-100 is an excellent gun and one of the strongest revolvers one can get in .357. Don't let some gun store commando tell you the triggers are bad or they will not shoot - The GP can be an incredibly good revolver. It is a bit heavy for what it is but you'll never break it!
A 6" barrel is a bit long for my taste but that's just personal preference.

Getting back to the auto pistol thing. I often put a tarp down to catch brass. It takes about 2 minutes to lay it down and put a rock on each corner. At the end of the session I just fold up the tarp with the brass in it. Not the most elegant solution but it does help recover brass.

[charlie b]

My problem with autos and brass is each one throws the stuff a different direction.

My 1911 tosses them back and right (most of the time. With hot loads it is directly to the right). Springfield XD right behind me. Wife's Colt Commander, way back (like 20 ft!). Mauser Broomhandle, straight up and a little in front. 1903 Colt forward a little and to the right.

[Petrol & Powder]

Big tarp

[charlie b]

I'd have to ask the guy in the next lane to step aside so I could stake it down :D :D :D

[robertbank]

The GP-100 is an excellent gun and one of the strongest revolvers one can get in .357. Don't let some gun store commando tell you the triggers are bad or they will not shoot - The GP can be an incredibly good revolver. It is a bit heavy for what it is but you'll never break it!
A 6" barrel is a bit long for my taste but that's just personal preference.

Getting back to the auto pistol thing. I often put a tarp down to catch brass. It takes about 2 minutes to lay it down and put a rock on each corner. At the end of the session I just fold up the tarp with the brass in it. Not the most elegant solution but it does help recover brass.

Good advice all around. I love my 4.2" GP-100 SS. I use it shooting IDPA. The gun actually weighs one once less than my 4" 686 no dash 'smith. Trigger is smooth as glass and I can't tell the difference between the Ruger and the S&W. I like the balance of the 4" guns over the 6". I don';t shoot a 6" any better than my 4". I know the longer barrel has a longer sight radius but for what I am capable of it makes no difference.

Take Care

Bob
ps The taro works great for those tumes I have my 1911's at the range.

[tomme boy]

Mine throws in a nice little pile at about 4-5 o'clock. The bending over is what gets me.

Been having a bunch of tire kickers in the for sale section here. Seems like they want me to just give it to them. We have a gun show coming up this week end. I may just take it with me to see what they offer. I'm not going to give it away. I know I bought this when it first came out so you can get it cheaper than what I paid. I also know that the parts I put on it don't matter much to the buyer.

[trapper9260]

There is something I think you can put on the gun to catch the brass for semi autos You might want to check into that also before you give up your semi autos.I know they make them for rifles.Just a Idea.

[Geezer in NH]

I'd have to ask the guy in the next lane to step aside so I could stake it down :D :D :DAsk politely :bigsmyl2:

[tomme boy]

Well I ended up getting a 4.2" blued GP100. Local dealer must have had someone that wanted my 45 or he wanted to get rid of this pistol really bad. He gave me exactly what I wanted for the pistol. It is brand new and has been sitting in his safe since about August he said. He said everyone wants the SS version. Does not matter one bit to me.

[GaryN]

You're going to love the GP100. I have a stainless in the six inch model. It has become the best 357 I have ever had. I have had security sixes, 686, and BHs. I sat down this summer and shot 25 out of 25 pop cans from 10 to 30 yards that were filled with water. The trigger is fairly good and it is just plain tough. I love it.

[FlatTop45LC]

Well congrats!

I am looking at adding a GP-100 after the first of the year.

[robertbank]

Well I ended up getting a 4.2" blued GP100. Local dealer must have had someone that wanted my 45 or he wanted to get rid of this pistol really bad. He gave me exactly what I wanted for the pistol. It is brand new and has been sitting in his safe since about August he said. He said everyone wants the SS version. Does not matter one bit to me.

I have to echo the previous comment. I use my 4.2" SS GP-100 in IDPA and love the gun. I have a 686 as back-up. The trigger on my Ruger is excellent and just as good as the 686. The Ruger weighs a full ounce less than the 686. The gun is accurate and a joy to shoot. I had to open up the cylinders to .358 to accommodate my cast bullets and have yet to have the forcing cone cut to 11 degrees. I do experience leading in the first 1/16th inch of the rifling as I do with the Smith as well. Powder coated bullets will solve that once I get set up for them this winter.

Take Care

Bob

[Ed in North Texas]

I prefer revolvers myself. I don't care for chasing brass, but the accuracy advantage revolvers hold over most autos is their biggest draw to me. I haven't come across many autos that will shoot in 1.5" or less at 25 yds., but thats reasonably common in a quality revolver with good loads. My last 1952 Mfg. pre model 14 K-38 cost me $365 less than a year ago from Gunbroker. I did have to firelap it, but it has also given me quite a few .75" 25 yard groups since.

Dang, I wish I could get my 64* to shoot like that. Heck, even if it were still capable of SA fire, and had an adjustable rear sight, I can't hold a pistol or revolver that close at even 15 yards, by the time I've fired all 6 rounds (even if I didn't shoot 2 at a time, from the holster) the group is larger than a couple of inches much closer than 25 yards.

* S&W Model 64, 3" bbl, bobbed hammer for DA only, normal fodder is Remington .38 Special 125 Gr JHP +P.

Correction, I feed the 64 Remington .38 Special 110 grain Semi-Jacketed HP +P. Another senior moment. Noticed my mistake when I went out to clean a .45 and saw a box of .38s. Anh xin loi.

[tomme boy]

This one is really smooth. Not any leading so far. Only loading 38's right now. I am using the MiHec 124gr HP bullet at 0.3585" lubed with Randy Rats Tac X lube. With 4.2 gr of Bullseye. I was out yesterday and hit a plastic pop bottle 4 out of 6 times off hand at 35 yds. Just trying to get used to the trigger. Not like my 1911 or my CZ75 at all. It has some creep in single action. It is smooth, just a little long.

Anyone have any insights on the hold and trigger control?