Best 44 Magnum reloading die set

[6bg6ga]

I will automatically exclude Lee from the discussion if possible. I do not like Lee so please lets not even discuss Lee.

The gun is a new Super Black hawk 44 magnum

I am currently looking for used dies on ebay and have found some interesting ones. Most of my reloading dies are RCBS and the rest are
Dillon and are used on the Dillon 650 press.

Questions... I see there are some G-18 RCBS reloading dies. How do they differ from standard carbide dies?

Do I just purchase a used set of carbide dies with a roll crimp? Do I stick with taper crimp?

[375supermag]

Hi...

I use and recommend RCBS carbide dies.

I have used a set to load .44Mag loads for several different handguns and have loaded thousands of rounds with nary a problem.

I do always buy a separate seating die for each bullet style and weight in any caliber...I do not like constantly re-adjusting seating dies.
I set them where I want them with the amount of roll crimp that I desire and lock the die ring down.

I do spray them out with GunScrubber periodically and wipe them down with a RemOil cloth.

Many years of use, no rust or lube build-up...keep them clean and maintained and they should last a lifetime. I fully intend my son be able to use mine for decades after I am dead and gone.

[6bg6ga]

Do you recommend the roll crimp dies over the taper crimp dies? How do roll crimp dies work with plated bullets or jacketed bullets?

[DougGuy]

You won't get enough tension out of a taper crimp die to hold the boolit in place with magnum loads. Case neck tension is a MUST and then a roll crimp is traditional for the .44 magnum. What boolits are you planning on using? For hunting, the .44 magnum does really well with heavy for caliber boolits up to 310gr over slow burning powders.

[6bg6ga]

It will never see any time as a hunting gun. It will see usage in a target shooting roll as a fun gun. I had planned on casting some 240 SWC bullets I have the Magma mold in the MARK IV right now but its too cold to enjoy trying to cast in a 30 degree garage. I had planned to purchase some 240 grain plated Xrtreme bullets and I don't believe they have any crimping groove/area. Powder will probably be Unique or WW231.

[lightman]

You can't go wrong with either RCBS or Dillon. Sounds like they are already your favorite, might as well stay with them. I would go with the roll crimp on the 44, or any other revolver for that matter.

[Char-Gar]

I no longer use carbide sizing dies anymore as I feel they size the brass more than necessary. I have both older Lyman and older RCBS steel dies in 44 Magnum and they both work well. I take the bullet seating plug and turn the face of it flat with the lathe and it can be used with any bullet that has a flat on the nose. I don't use RN nose 44 bullets that covers them all.

[nicholst55]

I suspect that this thread will turn into a statement of personal preference, rather than what's "best." You began this by immediately dismissing Lee dies because you don't 'like' them. I don't necessarily like them, but I do use some for various reasons. I don't prefer Lee dies, but that's just me.

Besides, how do you define 'best?' Price? Appearance? Results? Not trying to be contrary (well, not really), just trying to clarify things somewhat.

[Char-Gar]

I suspect that this thread will turn into a statement of personal preference, rather than what's "best." You began this by immediately dismissing Lee dies because you don't 'like' them. I don't necessarily like them, but I do use some for various reasons. I don't prefer Lee dies, but that's just me.

Besides, how do you define 'best?' Price? Appearance? Results? Not trying to be contrary (well, not really), just trying to clarify things somewhat.

There is no best, just dies that produce good ammo and those that don't. Beyond that there is just personal preference based on experience.

[jmort]

"There is no best, just dies that produce good ammo and those that don't. "

What current production dies produce "not good ammo?"

[Char-Gar]

"There is no best, just dies that produce good ammo and those that don't. "

What current production dies produce "not good ammo?"

That would require testing multiple sets of dies from every maker and the firing of many thousands of rounds and this I have not done or care to do. I can only state what I do that gives good results. Everybody else can do the same.

[jmort]

Would it fair to say that you know what dies work for you but have no clue what dies do not produce "good ammo?"

[Char-Gar]

Then why make nonsense statements? Would it fair to say that you know what dies work for you but have no clue what dies do not produce "good ammo?"

That is not a question but an invitation to a fight and I won't bite. But is has earned you a place on my "ignore" list.

[jmort]

For what it worth, 44man loves the Hornady dies, period.

[6bg6ga]

Forgive me. I couldn't resist injecting sarcasm in my title. If you check various threads on this forum you find a reference to the word best. I will clarify. There is no best but there is for sure junk and Lee in my opinion based on what I purchased from them is like I already said junk. Therefore I again wish to not even discuss them or or their product. I do believe and I'm sure someone will want to stand on their soap box and challenge me for it but dies that do seem to work better work the brass less and show less brass abuse. I would like to hear of the dies that seem to work well and yes I do understand that all will produce ammunition and yes I do believe that ammunition quality is a result of not only the operators skill in setting up the dies but in the quality of the dies in producing ammunition with like OAL and crimp. It is my opinion that finished ammunition with consistent OAL helps in contributing to accuracy and reliability.

[waksupi]

If I wanted the best, I wouldn't try to save a few bucks on Ebay to buy someone's worn out scratched dies.

[r1kk1]

I use a combination of dies. I've been using a Dillon set and after following Char-Gar's posts, CH4D is who I use for a steel sizing die, their version of a M-Die with a JDS Quick Measure or the standard Dillon powder funnel measure setup, CH4D seater with a couple of different plugs and CH4D taper crimp die.

Dave at CH4D talked me into the taper crimp die and I'm glad he did. It not dependent on case length. He is making me one for a 500 Linebaugh. The load I use in a Dan Wesson is Bluedot, 255 grain bullet, Winchester primer and does 1570 fps out of a 10" barrel. I measure OAL of the remaing loads in the cylinder and length if it moves is barely preceptable on the calipers. It gives me low ES on the Chronograph.

I'm liking steel dies a lot.

take care

r1kk1

[6bg6ga]

If I wanted the best, I wouldn't try to save a few bucks on Ebay to buy someone's worn out scratched dies.

Actually Sir a little more sarcasm on my part and you bit on it. Ebay can be a source of used up well worn dies depending on who you purchase from. I seriously doubt that I will give an ebay seller a price that is within $5 of the new price but thanks for your concern.

[6bg6ga]

I use a combination of dies. I've been using a Dillon set and after following Char-Gar's posts, CH4D is who I use for a steel sizing die, their version of a M-Die with a JDS Quick Measure or the standard Dillon powder funnel measure setup, CH4D seater with a couple of different plugs and CH4D taper crimp die.

Dave at CH4D talked me into the taper crimp die and I'm glad he did. It not dependent on case length. He is making me one for a 500 Linebaugh. The load I use in a Dan Wesson is Bluedot, 255 grain bullet, Winchester primer and does 1570 fps out of a 10" barrel. I measure OAL of the remaing loads in the cylinder and length if it moves is barely preceptable on the calipers. It gives me low ES on the Chronograph.

I'm liking steel dies a lot.

take care

r1kk1


Finally a post when someone isn't trying to take a shot at me. I gather the taper crimp works well?

[ubetcha]

If I may make a comment about crimping dies, I seat and crimp as a seperate operation. Lately I have started using Redding Profile Crimp dies. My understanding is that this style die produces a slight taper crimp just before the roll crimp. I suspect the reasoning for this would be that the taper crimp section holds the case from being bulged when the roll crimp is being applied. Thats my theory anyway and all I see is a very even and positive roll crimp on both my 357 max and 44 mag cases. I have not done any testing between a profile crimp or a regular crimp for any other dies. The Redding Profile Crimp dies do require that the case are all trimmed the same length, which everyone understands why.

[jmort]

I have a .357 Redding Profile crimp die, and it produces a roll type crimp. I like a separate crimp die station, but many do not.

PROFILE CRIMP DIES (http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/31-profile-crimp-dies)http://www.redding-reloading.com/images/stories/media/profilecrimpdie.jpgThese handgun cartridge crimp dies were designed for those who want the best possible crimp. Profile crimp dies provide a tighter, more uniform roll type crimp, and requires the bullet to be seated to the correct depth in a previous operation.

These dies are not for cartridges that headspace on the case mouth.

[6bg6ga]

If I may make a comment about crimping dies, I seat and crimp as a seperate operation. Lately I have started using Redding Profile Crimp dies. My understanding is that this style die produces a slight taper crimp just before the roll crimp. I suspect the reasoning for this would be that the taper crimp section holds the case from being bulged when the roll crimp is being applied. Thats my theory anyway and all I see is a very even and positive roll crimp on both my 357 max and 44 mag cases. I have not done any testing between a profile crimp or a regular crimp for any other dies


Thank you for sharing your observations. I'm leaning toward seating and crimping as seperate operations because my observations seem to indicate with the combo die there is a lot of variations in OAL. What you have indicated makes 100% sense. The slight taper holds the bullet firm enough so that a roll crimp can be used with success. Unfortunately unless you are willing to part with the extra $$$ you end up with something that is so so. Anyone can make ammunition but accurate ammunition is another thing. If I may ask did this help in accuracy?

[6bg6ga]

I have a .357 Redding Profile crimp die, and it produces a roll type crimp. I like a separate crimp die station, but many do not.

PROFILE CRIMP DIES (http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/31-profile-crimp-dies)

http://www.redding-reloading.com/images/stories/media/profilecrimpdie.jpgThese handgun cartridge crimp dies were designed for those who want the best possible crimp. Profile crimp dies provide a tighter, more uniform roll type crimp, and requires the bullet to be seated to the correct depth in a previous operation.

These dies are not for cartridges that headspace on the case mouth.


May I ask if you use a micrometer type seating die and if so are the results much better than the standard?

[Char-Gar]

If I wanted the best, I wouldn't try to save a few bucks on Ebay to buy someone's worn out scratched dies.

I have purchased several score of dies on EBay and only had one that was bad. I clean the dies and polish the inside of the resizing dies with Mothers Mag polish on a paper shop towel. I do this in my lathe. They finish the process as good as new. Maybe I have just been lucky but that is my experience.

But, my RCBS steel sizing die in 44 Mag was new old stock and cost me $10.00.

[ubetcha]

The 357 max is a new caliber for me and I 'm still in the process of developing a load for it. With the 44, I just switched from using the "L word" dies to Hornady. My 357 max dies are also Hornady. Most of my rifle dies are Hornady except for a L word collet dies for my 30-30 and 30-06, but I do have Hornady for those too. The reason I'm starting to like Hornady dies is there is a floating support sleeve in the seating die to hold the bullet straight before it touches the seating stem. I regret to say that I have not done a comparison to test if its more accurate. But I have had several comments at the range about how nice the crimp looks when showing the Max to people that have not seen one before.:bigsmyl2:

[jmort]

"May I ask if you use a micrometer type seating die and if so are the results much better than the standard?"

No, never have used one. They do look precise.

[Love Life]

I ensure consistent crimp by trimming my brass to consistent length. No die can really make up for brass of varying lengths.

OAL variations can be cause by many things, but not usually the die. It's usually bullets with varying nose lengths, short stroking, loose seater backing out (operator error), lube build up, etc.

As for the best dies, I prefer whatever is cheapest but NIB. Usually Lee. Having to remove the cutting oils, chips, deburr threads is a pain but the price for NIB sho' am good!!

[375supermag]

Do you recommend the roll crimp dies over the taper crimp dies? How do roll crimp dies work with plated bullets or jacketed bullets?

I use the roll crimp on all revolver cartridges, whether cast or jacketed.
I do not use plated bullets.
I do use a profile crimp die for autoloader handgun cartridges.

[r1kk1]

Finally a post when someone isn't trying to take a shot at me. I gather the taper crimp works well?

It really does. This is my IHMSA gun a Dan Wesson in 44 mag and I set the barrel cylinder gap to .002". Very tight and HD revolver. I use to shoot quite a bit of 300+ grainers and used a Redding profile crimp die. Dave talked me into it. He cut down a .30 Carbine taper crimp die for my wife's 327 Federal Magnum. It works very well!

I tried to to follow your post and respect it. That's all brother.

take care

r1kk1

[Airman Basic]

I have Lyman pistol dies in 38/357, 41, 44, 45ACP and 45 Colt. Been using them over thirty years now with no trouble from them. Never found anything better than the "m" expander dies by any maker for boolits. Oops, next year will be 40 years with them and my Rockchucker. Tried just about everything you could name in dies, presses and whatnot, always come back to the originals.

[Newboy]

Whatever carbide sizer is handy, a Lyman "m" die, whatever seater is handy (the floating type is optimal), and a Redding profile crimp. This is what I use for cast.

[Kevin Rohrer]

I just started loading for my Super Blackhawk tonight, and am using Hornady New Dimension dies. So far, so good.

[MT Chambers]

I always use and buy Redding dies whenever I can, both std. and carbide. I especially like their "deluxe" die sets which include both neck and full length sizers.

[Lefty Red]

On the subject of taper vs profile/roll crimp dies, I would like to inject my opinion........
I have been using more j-word bullets and most do not come with a cannelure. I find the taper crimp holds them just as good as the roll, maybe even better since the likely piercing of the jacket with a too aggressive roll crimp. Feeds well in my rifle as well. And no bullet set back from recoil.

Its the neck tension that holds the bullet in the case. And I found that when I got away from Lee sizing dies, that the crimp was less important. So I apply just enough to smooth out the mouth of the case. Helps with case life as well.

Jerry

[cuzinbruce]

I can second ubetcha's recommendation of the Redding Profile Crimp die. I have several in different calibers. They give an excellent roll crimp. The amount of which you can easily change by how you adjust the die. You do have to do it as a separate operation, first seat the bullet, then change dies and put the crimp on. The cases also need to be relatively uniform in length or the crimps will vary. Not an issue with 44 Mag but they are for revolvers for the most part. (Although I have used one for 38 Spl for S&W Model 52)
You didn't want Lee dies, however Lee does make a Factory Crimp Die that does an excellent job, in my experience.

[Safeshot]

What I consider as my personal preference for .44 Mag and/or .44Special: RCBS Cowboy action (carbide) dies (or RCBS Carbide dies) with a Cowboy Action expander (two diameter expander plug with case mouth flare), Taper crimp seating die (adjusted to just remove the case mouth "bell" and VERY SLIGHTLY crimp the case. Then, in a separate operation a final crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp (COLLET CRIMP TYPE) (I do not think that any other manufacturer makes anything like this "collet" crimping die.) (not the "carbide sizing ring" type of die), adjusted to give a moderate crimp into the cannelure or crimping groove. I think that this combination is especially good for cast Boolits. I also like this approach for .45 Long colt and .38 Special. Hope that this is helpful, Safeshoy

[6bg6ga]

I'm going to get my hands on an older carbide set that has a roll crimp and then purchase a Redding Profile Crimp die as suggested. I'm interested in a micrometer depth setting die so that is on the list also. I appreciate all the good info and suggestions.

[9w1911]

I use:
Lee FL Carbide sizer
Dillon powder expander
RCBS seating die
Redding Profile Crimp

Im on a Dilloin 550b

[6bg6ga]

Provided that I purchase the caliber conversion for my Dillon 650 I plan to use the following.

RCBS carbide FL sizer
Dillon powder expander
RCBS bullet dropper
Redding micrometer adjustable bullet seating die
Redding profile crimp die

If I don't purchase the dillon conversion I will use my Lyman turret press and
RCBS Fl sizer
RCBS expander
Redding micrometer bullet seating die
Redding profile crimp die

[1bluehorse]

[QUOTE=6bg6ga;3027267] New Super Black hawk 44 magnum



Since we're talking reloading for handguns here I'll say the "Best" dies for loading cast boolits are the Hornady Cowboy dies....they will size at least .001 less than a regular sizing die from RCBS or the "standard" Hornady new dimension dies, (have not measured any other brand sizer die) they have a larger expander plug, (sorta like a Lyman M die) and a larger "sleeve" for cast boolits in the seater die...also you can get these dies with a taper crimp or roll crimp...I have both type in my 45 colt die set...can get it with the 44 also...they do cost a bit more than most die sets .......for jacketed bullets....any will do...(even Lee dies) I'll bet 98% of handgun shooters would never see a difference on paper no matter what dies were used....JMO..

[robg]

i like lee dies.sad i know but they work well

[sw282]

My stuff is a little red and a little green..l have purchased both new and used..l don't know about customer service because l have never had any issues with them. l don't think l have ever used anything to prime but a Lee priming tool..

Recently l started shooting 460 S&W.. l chose Hornady 4 die set because everything l had read on this cartridge recommended it

[1hole]

I've reloaded with a lot of die brands for a lot of cartridges including .44 mag since 1965. The first thing you need to look for is something with ".44 Mag" on the label because they all work the same and, on average, one brand works as well as another. (Come to think of it, I've never used any dies that didn't do a good job.) However, Lyman's pistol dies come with their "M" expander and, used correctly, that design works a lot better for cast bullets than conventional expanders; ditto Redding's excellent copy of it.

Taper crimps are for rimless auto loader cartridges that head space on the case mouth. Trying to use a taper crimp on heavy .44 mag loads is a mistake, even if you could find a taper crimp die for it.

[GP100man]

I`ve loaded a many an accurate round with Lee dies for 44 mag.

[6bg6ga]

Lee dies may work well but I have owned my one and only Lee die. Please no more comments about Lee dies.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Before you dive off this cliff, let me dump out my .02 on this subject.

I have a bunch of .44 dies. I have a Pacific 3 die set from 1978, and RCBS 3 die set from the 80's and a C&H 4 die set from a few years ago, plus a few extra loose dies I've acquired to do specific jobs.

Dave at C&H also talked me into a Taper Crimp die with that set.

You definitely want a 4 die set.

They work completely different than a 3 die set does. The three die set's sizing die usually only sizes the case and doesn't deprime as it has no plug in it. Then the expander die expands and bells the case mouth and knocks the primer out. The seating die is required to seat and crimp in one op or else you can back the seating stem out and crimp as a second op.

With a 4 die set the sizing die also de-primes, and the expander typically has a hole thru it to drop powder thru.

Some boolits do better with a roll crimp some with the taper crimp. Depends on what the crimp groove looks like.

Roll Crimps are super with jacketed bullets with a cannelure, and most Cast Boolits. With Plated Bullets or Jacketed with no cannelure,,, then the taper crimp will work better.

As much as you don't want to hear it,,, Lee has one die that is exceptional for this round. (none of their dies are bad) They have a collet style Factory Crimp Die which works exactly like their Rifle Crimp dies. It has no sizing ring in it, and it makes a factory style crimp on a bullet with a cannelure that hooks onto it better than anything else out there. A must have die if you want to load heavy loads in the .44 Magnum with jacketed bullets.

There is absolutely no reason to buy a Micrometer Seating Die for this round, the OAL of these rounds is not so critical as to require minute adjustments. You simply run the seating stem in the seating die down until the case mouth is in the right position on the bullet and then crimp it in a separate die. You can do this just fine with a regular seating die.

I do recommend a Carbide Sizing Die. They just work better and you can clean your cases first and then size them and load them without having to remove a bunch of case lube after they are done. makes sense?

My current set of .44 Spec/Magnum dies consists of a C&H Carbide Sizing Die, a C&H thru powder expander die, with either a funnel or C&H powder measure mounted on top, a C&H or RCBS seating die depending on what type of bullet I am loading, and a Pacific Seating die with the stem removed to roll crimp or a C&H Taper Crimp die depending on what type of bullet.

I have not found one instance where any given manufacturer of reloading equipment makes dies for every conceivable situation, therefore mixing die sets is the only way you're going to get where you need to go.

The .44 Spec/Magnum is one of the most versatile cartridges in existence. In order to take advantage of that you must be able to load many different ways.

A perfect example is here in CA we must use non lead bullets for hunting. The crimp groove on Barnes Bullets is simply an undercut, and that Lee Collet Style Factory Crimp Die I spoke of earlier is about the only way to crimp those bullets in place so they don't move in a magazine of a rifle or jump crimp in a revolver when loaded hot. Lee is the only company that makes this die.

Sometimes you have to bridge the personality gap of being adverse to certain brands for whatever reason you have,,, in order to get what you need to do a job. I personally don't like Redding Dies as I consider them to be grossly over priced, and many I have seen have really inferior machining for their cost. They say they are the best, and yet I have seen too many examples that say otherwise, and that has shaped my opinion.

I still have a few of them, simply because they serve a purpose I can't get elsewhere.

I did not see any reference to what type of loading press you have, but for loading the .44 I would lean towards some kind of multi-station tool. I use a C&H 444 for assembling most all of my rounds and it is works very well for the .44's. It is something you should look into, or a least some kind of turret press.

Whatever you decide you'll have a lot of fun with this round and that gun.

Randy

[Jtarm]

I suspect that this thread will turn into a statement of personal preference, rather than what's "best." You began this by immediately dismissing Lee dies because you don't 'like' them. I don't necessarily like them, but I do use some for various reasons. I don't prefer Lee dies, but that's just me.

Besides, how do you define 'best?' Price? Appearance? Results? Not trying to be contrary (well, not really), just trying to clarify things somewhat.

I doubt there's any empirical testing that will show one is superior to the others, so opinions and anecdotes are about all the OP will find here.

If it's not going to be used for hunting or precision competition, gilt edged accuracy isn't a top requirement and just about anything should work just fine, including Lee. Accuracy is going to be more a result of the load and technique, anyway. The only way I see dies being a big factor is if the gun is chambered to very tight tolerances, like a Freedom Arms.

If best accuracy is what's desired, I'd try & find out what the IHMSA silhouette competitors are using.

[6bg6ga]

I did pick up a used RCBS die set from a member here and it has a carbide sizing die. I was interested in a Redding seating die but I have not purchased one as of yet. My thought was to possibly use it in conjunction with other seating dies. I seem to have two sets for most calibers one that is RCBS and the other that is Dillon. I had wondered if the Redding micrometer portion would thread into a RCBS die.

As to the Lee dies....cannot seem to get away from them it seems. My Lee experience is slim because I own a Lee hand primer which broke and I own a 9mm taper crimp die that leaves a nice scar at the top of the case when the Dillon or the RCBS don't do it. That tells me the angle inside is different and the finish inside isn't up to par. Absolutely no more Lee stuff for me. I was told that I had too much flair at the top of the case but with dialing that down to the point where the bullet will barely start the Lee leaves a marking. No, I'm not trying to seat it too hard. Its just a junk piece in my opinion. Why should I purchase Lee when I can put a few dollars with the Lee cost and purchase RCBS? To each his own..... like Lee? Go ahead and purchase it but please do not sing its praises to me because it would be falling on deaf ears.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Deaf ears: ;>) Simple reason is if you want a collet style crimp which holds a cannelured bullet better than any other method,,, Nobody else makes a collet style crimp die, so there is no other place to get one.

You will notice that virtually every rifle and pistol cartridge that is Factory Loaded with cannelured bullets has this style of crimp. There is a really good reason for this.

The whole point of my post was,,,

there is no one outfit that makes everything for every reloading operation.

Randy

[Alvarez Kelly]

I did pick up a used RCBS die set from a member here and it has a carbide sizing die. I was interested in a Redding seating die... I had wondered if the Redding micrometer portion would thread into a RCBS die.

Snip...

No. It will not. Also, the a Redding die has a very precision fit sliding sleeve for seating. The RCBS set has a fixed seating plug.

[6bg6ga]

There has been mention of 4 die sets. I don't see a need running a Dillon 650

[Clark]

I have 280 dies, and 5 more arrived today. I need to add those to my spread sheet.
Looking at the spread sheet, my RCBS 44 mag dies are carbide with a 0.447" opening.
I also have a steel CH die that is 0.451" and would not change the brass as much, but would require lube.

I have had the RCBS for 15 years since I started handloading.
But these days my flow chart for dies is for each new cartridge:
1) Handgun, get a Lee carbide set.
2) Rifle, a) decap with Lee, b) resize with a Forster with honed out neck and expander ball stem removed. c) Seat with Forster with modified seating stem mouth. d) Neck size with Lee collet neck die with polished parts.

There are deviants, and sometimes I have to make dies.

[Harter66]

I don't have a 44 anything but maybe I should. The best set I've seen, loaded mean bar none, best value ,highest return, etc etc are the 2 sets each of Lee's and RCBS and the Lyman set I basically have given away over the last 4 years . I had a set up for swap along with about 5 other sets and gave theM away to a guy that needed a set but could only afford 1 of the 2 needed sets.

I guess if a guy is going to be picky he ought to buy sets from the big 5 tune a perfect set of mix and match taking the best of each set and sell the leftovers . But that's me,most of this should be in purple.
Based on price points Sinclair has got to be the best . Dillon will have the lowest Hassle level since your running a Dillon. RCBS pistol dies are short dies,so they may work out ok on the Dillon. The Lyman 45 ACP set I have are longer than the rest of my pistol dies so those might not work well with your Dillon. So all in all,you probably should try them all and give us a bench and range report. Then we can all make an informed decision when/if the time comes for a new 44.

[DR Owl Creek]

I thought I'd step up and take a swing too. I have, or at least have had, reloading equipment from Hornady, RCBS, Redding, Lyman, CH-4D, L E Wilson, and Lee. I really never had a problem with any of them, other than Lee. At least I can say that Lee was pretty consistent in that I had problems with almost everything from them. That's why I replaced everything from Lee, and won't buy any more.

I think that overall, Hornady and RCBS are the best values for the money. They both make top quality products, and have outstanding customer service. In addition to that, Hornady is still offering a free box of jacketed bullets with each die set purchase, and RCBS is still offering a rebate on theirs. I really think that makes either one of them a much better value for the money than Lee too.

Having said that, most of my standard die sets are from Hornady and I fill in other specialty dies with RCBS, Redding, etc. I have Redding taper crimp dies for most of my die sets where Hornady doesn't offer one. That's the situation with the 44 Magnum.

From my experience with jacketed, plated, and solid copper bullets, if there isn't a crimping groove, the taper crimp die can give a much better crimp that with trying to use a roll crimp die. I know it might not be very scientific, but if you try pulling a bullet with an inertia type bullet puller, you can easily see the difference. I like the taper crimp die much better than a collet type die too, because it isn't as hard on the brass. I still think, however, that for most cast bullets with a crimp groove I would prefer using a roll crimp.

Going back to Hornady dies again, another thing I like about them is the floating sleeve in the seating dies. It makes getting concentric loads much easier than with many others. An added plus is that you can replace the standard seating adjustment in the New Dimension dies with Hornady's micrometer seating stem, which essentially makes them like a benchrest/competition die seating die. I've done this with all my rifle die sets. See: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/394708/hornady-microjust-seating-stem

The micrometer adjustment makes getting really precise adjustments to OAL on rifle loads very easy. I haven't replaced the micrometer seating adjustment stems on my handgun dies yet, buy I might at some time.

Dave

[BCRider]

I'm still learning as I go but I've settled in on roll crimping for cast and jacketed where there's a good useable cannelure groove. For jacketed where there's either no cannelure groove or just a light shallow vestigial marking of a groove I switch to taper crimping.

And for calibers where I don't have enough dies to allow seating and crimping in separate dies I'm working towards that goal.

And I've been bitten one too many times for me to ever buy used dies. The first non carbide set pushed me to only buying used dies if they were carbide. But I've since run into an issue with a used carbide set. And now I will only buy new from here on in with the possible exception of being able to closely inspect the dies.

[Airman Basic]

With the vestigal line passing for a crimp groove on Lee molded bullets, I'm considering a taper crimp for some of them.