Converting 357 magnum to large primer pocket.

[Bazoo]

I am a big 357 magnum fan. I am figuring its the perfect survival caliber for any number of reasons. I know the original loadings were with large primers. I want to convert a few hundred cases to LP to have just in case.

I'd like some advice on converting small primer pockets to large. I surmise, i'll i'd need to do is get a lp uniformer and chuck it in my drill press, make a jig to hold the casing, ream it out to the proper depth.

Since the casing used to be LP, I reckon it'd be strong enough?

I know large primers will give better ignition, thus giving higher pressure. Id have to back off my hot loads and work up again.

They changed in the 60s or so if im not mistaken. Can anyone recommend old data that was based on LP loads?

I know its not worth the effort to convert them, and I have plenty of sp primers. Thats not the answers im looking for.

~Bazoo

[6bg6ga]

Easy--but not with a drill press. Such are not stable enough, even the best. You need the solidity of a mill, i.e. a Bridgeport. Then you make a set-up fixture that is solid to insert each case precisely, and cut a new pocket. But wait--to do this you need to purchase a specially ground end mill to properly cut the new pocket to precisely the correct size. $$$$$. So, you have to have a mill, you have to build a fixture, and you have to have a speceial end mill (see MSC). We're talking money--but it is certainly do-able.
Or you could go the way of a lathe. Set up a depth contolled collet fixture, then a contolled depth tail stock feed with a specifically cut reamer (an end mill in actuality) and you're set!

[6bg6ga]

My suggestion is this..... go with a 10mm. The 10mm is from what I am told the same power. Its a larger caliber which is good for take down. It has a large primer as opposed to the 40 cal. You don't have to go out and buy a mill, make a fixture or purchase a lathe and tooling.

Another way to look at this.....if the large primer for the 357 was such a good idea they all would have them.

[357Mag]

Bazooka -

Howdy !

.357Mag to LP primers ? Boy.....I dunno....

You'd be reducing the amount of available case "web" materiel yourself, in–deference to normal manufacturing practice.

You did mention the notion of an ideal survival calibre, and listed. .357" calibre.
To operate in the .357" cal realm, perhaps a .35Rem would hold appeal ?
.357" cal bullets can be used w/ .35 Rem, often w/ great results.

A .35Rem is also famous for being cast boolit friendly, and.... can even be shot w/ BP; if pressed.
Sounds like a survival cal/cartridge/rifle to me !

Having a handgun & cartridge that match a similarly chambered rifle is a god thing, fer sher.
Still...operating w/ .357" cal handgun(s) in-association w/ a good .35Rem rifle has its own merits


With regards,
357Mag

[357Mag]

Bazoo -

The computer did fill-in thang on your name, and I missed catching it. I apologize !


With regards,
357Mag

[HATCH]

I would rethink this.
The reason you are going to large primer is if you can't get small primers??

I would suggest you get a 610 revolver and a bunch of moon clips
I shoot 40 cal and 10mm out of my 610

[MT Gianni]

I am a big 357 magnum fan. I am figuring its the perfect survival caliber for any number of reasons. I know the original loadings were with large primers. I want to convert a few hundred cases to LP to have just in case.
Not a bad idea.
I'd like some advice on converting small primer pockets to large. I surmise, i'll i'd need to do is get a lp uniformer and chuck it in my drill press, make a jig to hold the casing, ream it out to the proper depth.
Probably best done with a lathe.

Since the casing used to be LP, I reckon it'd be strong enough?
We don't know that, they went to Sp in the early 40's or late 1930's.

I know large primers will give better ignition, thus giving higher pressure. Id have to back off my hot loads and work up again.
Different not necessarily better.
They changed in the 60s or so if im not mistaken. Can anyone recommend old data that was based on LP loads?

I know its not worth the effort to convert them, and I have plenty of sp primers. Thats not the answers im looking for.

~Bazoo
I put some answers in green. I believe I would invest in a 44 special or mag if you just can't get sp primers some day. You could probably get one for the cost you are looking at.

[williamwaco]

The thought occurs . . .

If the .357 really needs a LP primer, Why are the people who have the knowledge and equipment to develop and test now converting the .45ACP to small primer?

Best I can find, the .45 ACP has significantly more capacity than the .357 Mag.

I just yanked one of each out of my fired cases bins and the .357 held 14.4 grains Bulls Eye The .45ACP held 18.2 grains Bulls Eye.

If you want hotter spark try the SR primers. ( Do reduce 10% and work back up. )
( This does not work with LR vs LP primers )

[rondog]

Sounds like a nutty idea to me.

[seaboltm]

I wouldn't call it nutty, just not necessary. The 357 can already use small rifle primers, which surely you would keep a stock of for 223. That adds versatility. I think there are tools made to do this. There was another post here concerning the same thing, and the conclusion was the same: why?

[blueeyephil]

Only reason I can think of to use large primers in a 357 is if you are setup for LP for all of your other loading. That I could understand. Most of us don't like to have to change the primer setup's on our presses.

[robertbank]

The thought occurs . . .

If the .357 really needs a LP primer, Why are the people who have the knowledge and equipment to develop and test now converting the .45ACP to small primer?

)

The reason is the manufacturers could not make lead free large pistol primers work so they were forced to go to lead free small pistol primers. They work just as well as large pistol primers and are lead free. This is why you see small pistol primers in the 45acp and the only reason.

Take Care

Bob

[theperfessor]

Leaving aside the reasons for doing it, I would use a lathe with an accurate three jaw or collet chuck and bore out the primer pocket to be slightly undersize using an appropriate tool, followed up by swaging the pocket to final size.

[robertbank]

The perfect survival cartridge likely is the .22lr HP. Nothing is forever so why worry about it anyway. Assuming we lost everything our modern world now offers consider that in 1900 the average American lived to be 49 years old. If you are older than that now do the math and work backwards.

Take Care

Bob

[Boogieman]

I think you missed the OP's point. He wanted to be able load .357 mag's with whatever size primers He could find. Not a bad idea

[MattOrgan]

I run accross .357 cases with large primer pockets on an irregular basis, why not post a want to buy or trade, I know they are out there. That should get you enough cases to satisfy your curiosity.

[454PB]

I won't address the reasons you may want to do this, but I modified 50 rounds of .454 Casull brass to accept large pistol primers (normally it uses small rifle primers). I did this in my lathe, then used a Lyman primer pocket uniformer to achieve the flat bottom.

[robertbank]

I think you missed the OP's point. He wanted to be able load .357 mag's with whatever size primers He could find. Not a bad idea

Considering the powder/primer shortages we are going through right now and we are not in a survival environment I suspect the quest is a bit like charging windmills. In a survival situation if you don't have them going in you likely are going to be out of luck on the way out.

I don understand the goal just not sure the effort is worth the quest.

Take Care

Bob

[9.3X62AL]

Do your own cost & effort/benefits analysis, and see if it makes sense to tool up. This is a highly individual thing, and not my place to critique someone's else's reasons or motives.

I have not seen a 357 Magnum casing bored with a large primer pocket, but from what is said they do exist. It occurs to me that the ammomakers arrived at the "Use a small pistol primer" conclusion for SOME reason......perhaps it is a good reason. Don't mind me, though.

[Bonz]

I would discuss with Starline Brass, the experts. They do custom stuff and may be willing to run off a few thousand

[Guesser]

Here I have some 38 S&W Spcl cases with large primer pockets. The 14 Peters cases are factory primed and unfired, nickel and brass. On the left are 10 Super Speed unprimed, unfired nickel 38 Special cases with large primer pockets. Just goes to show that there are a few of the antiques still floating around.

[9.3X62AL]

Thank you, Guesser!

[robertbank]

Guesser were these WW11 Production cartridges or produced shortly after WW11?

Take Care

Bob

[GRUMPA]

I would think in order to do this little project properly, it would be prudent to have a lathe. If it was me (And I'm not volunteering) I would use a collet and have the head stop on the collet, like a solid stop. Then use the right sized reamer to finish it off. Sounds simple enough but for me personally I'll stick with something that's already been proven to work, small primers....

[Nueces]

Bazoo, were I to try it, I also would use a small lathe, partly because the speed could be kept low. I'd start the counterbore with a tool, to center the carbide commercial uniformer, with which I'd finish the pocket as you suggest. Darn few drill presses can be slowed down enough to make this other than a hair raising process.

Since you intend only a small supply of modified cases, take look at how to use one of the case trimmer tools powered by a small hand drill/driver. The Wilson uses solid collets to hold cases concentric with the rotating cutter. You could make your own collet, split horizontally and clamped in position to hold a case with the primer pocket facing the cutter. Aluminum or brass would work.

I hope you try it and report back (may do it myself). I think it's a good idea for keeping your 357 in action during a future shortage. If you had a hand-powered setup for making the mod, you'd need not go into production until required.

[Guesser]

I'm of the opinion that the Winchester Super Speed were post war as I've never seen any boxes of that label that were pre-war. The Peters, I have no idea. None of them have been loaded and fired.

[Joni Lynn]

In the pre 357 days when the original 38/44 38 Special ammo was being made it had large primer pockets. A few years ago some people on the S&W forum contacted Starline and got the specifics on getting a run of properly headstamped large primer brass made but we could never get enough people interested to make it affordable. No where close to affordable.
For ignition, I read in the Accurate Arms loading manual that in their testing the WW small pistol magnum primers were the most powerful off all tested by quite a margin.
Good luck.

[Four-Sixty]

I called Starline a month or so ago and asked about doing a custom head stamp. For that I was told there was a year long backlog, and a minimum of 250,000 pieces. Oh, and there was a tooling fee of around a $1,000.

If I was concerned about only being able to get one type of primer in the future, I'd buy more primers and guns now. It'd be more fun anyway.

[Bazoo]

Most of yall are missing the point. Most of yall's comments aint helpful. Thanks to those with helpful comments .

Does anyone have a line on data for a LP primer in 357?

[Bazoo]

Bazooka -

Howdy !

.357Mag to LP primers ? Boy.....I dunno....

You'd be reducing the amount of available case "web" materiel yourself, in–deference to normal manufacturing practice.

You did mention the notion of an ideal survival calibre, and listed. .357" calibre.
To operate in the .357" cal realm, perhaps a .35Rem would hold appeal ?
.357" cal bullets can be used w/ .35 Rem, often w/ great results.

A .35Rem is also famous for being cast boolit friendly, and.... can even be shot w/ BP; if pressed.
Sounds like a survival cal/cartridge/rifle to me !

Having a handgun & cartridge that match a similarly chambered rifle is a god thing, fer sher.
Still...operating w/ .357" cal handgun(s) in-association w/ a good .35Rem rifle has its own merits


With regards,
357Mag

Thats not a bad idea. I still want LP 357 cases though. Also, I appreciate the name thing.

[Guesser]

The old load manuals that I have seen pre-war didn't specify what size primer, large or small. Just 2400 powder in most of the higher pressure 357 loads. I don't own any older books, pre-war, any longer, sold them off some years back. There are reprint Ideal hand books available from about 1900 on.

[CLAYPOOL]

Buy more guns and don't look back. If the world collapses you can all ways trade them. Or do as I do, just keep buying and ordering 1000 cases at a time. BUY, BUY, BUY I tell my son, I'm increasing his inheritance and decreasing his sisters. She says he isn't getting all those guns dad. Me and hubby will be there as soon as your buried. There will be a wreck out front at my drive way of about 10 cars.. I just wished I could be a little fly on the wall.!

[Bazoo]

I wouldn't call it nutty, just not necessary. The 357 can already use small rifle primers, which surely you would keep a stock of for 223. That adds versatility. I think there are tools made to do this. There was another post here concerning the same thing, and the conclusion was the same: why?

I have not any SR primers as I do not load 223. I much prefer calibers which lend themselves to casting. I do not have an ar15 anymore, Didnt fancy loading for it when I did have it.

[44man]

LP is too much for the .357. Same as for the .45 ACP. So is a SR in the .357. Moves boolits out before ignition.
Nothing to do with case strength. All of our modern brass can take it but you are still wrong.

[44man]

You need to see what results I get from my 30-30 with LP mag primers instead of LR primers. Same in the 45-70. Most calibers have too much primer pressures. All you want is FIRE!

[robertbank]

Bazoo if the 45acp is any indication powder loads and results would be virtually the same using large or small pistol primers.

You may not like the answers you are getting but then don't ask the question. From what I can see the most practical responses reflect the attitude that you are coming up with a solution to a problem that does not make any sense.

As I understand it you expect at some point, no matter how many SPP you have you will run out and won't be able to buy more and you assume you will be able to source LPP. It would occur to me if SPP supplies dry up so will LPP. Your options are:
Option 1

1. Learn how to make SPP or
2. put in a lifetime supply of primers. I am going to assume 100,000 SPP would manage to keep most small untrained crowds at bay or alternatively feed most families into some far off future.

Option 2

Increase your supply of SPP. (100,000 SPP @ $30./000 = $3,000) Doable even in today's market.
100.000 loaded cartridges @ 14.5 gr of 4227 = 210kb powder @ $30/lb = $6,300 Powder might be a problem now but we can assume this will change sometime next year.
100.000 158 gr lead bullets from scrap lead WW FREE You will need 2300lb of WW alloy most of which should be available from neighbourhood cars that have long since run out of gas.
I am going to assume you have an ample supply of .357Mag cases that will last you as long as 100,000 reloads. On the assumption you can reload each case 15 times you will need approx. 6,700.

All calculations rounded. For an outlay of approx. $10,000 you will have at your disposal 100,000 loaded cartridges to ward off malcontents, feed your family and live a long and safe life.

or you can spend approximately the same amount of money or less to manufacture a few cases capable of using LPP. Now I put it to you. You won't need 100,000 rds of .357mag so the $10K reloading expense is way over stated. But you can easily scale the costs down in your head and come up with a reasonable amount of 357mag loadings that you and your family would feel comfortable with and load and have them available and I am talking about a lifetime supply. From the above numbers I would suggest an outlay of no more than $2,000 would give more .357 mag rounds (20,000) than you would use or require over your lifetime of survival no matter how bad the situation got.

Play with the numbers as you will but they are not far off the mark.

Take Care

Bob

[9.3X62AL]

Most of yall are missing the point. Most of yall's comments aint helpful. Thanks to those with helpful comments .

Does anyone have a line on data for a LP primer in 357?

It is difficult to be helpful when the question borders on the absurd. You'll find most reloaders and casters to have pragmatic, practical personalities that would consider such a question ludicrous, given the response content herein. If you can spell out a bona fide reason for creating 357 Magnum cases with large pistol primers, perhaps the responses might lean toward more informative and succinct information. I tend toward 44 Man's beliefs, that some calibers (45 ACP, for example) are over-primed already, and you may indeed be working in the wrong direction if the bullet derives significant movement by the primer impulse prior to proper ignition of the powder charge.

[Bazoo]

I want them, so in case of a shortage, or disaster, I have the ability to run my 357 with the most components possible. I am not going to run them constantly. I know its not needed, I know SR aint needed.

[robertbank]

I want them, so in case of a shortage, or disaster, I have the ability to run my 357 with the most components possible. I am not going to run them constantly. I know its not needed, I know SR aint needed.
Buy 38spl rounds, probably more likely to run in to them than .357mag or just buy 10K of primers. It is not like they are impossible to get.

Take Care

Bob

[Bazoo]

Okay, lets try another approach. Where should I begin looking for some original LP 38, or 357 cases. Preferably ones that aint shot out.

[MT Gianni]

Okay, lets try another approach. Where should I begin looking for some original LP 38, or 357 cases. Preferably ones that aint shot out.
In an article in Handloader about ten years ago, Brian Pierce was able to come up with one to dispel the rumor that they had always been sp primed. The initial run of them would have been long gone unless you inherit some from a relative who never reloaded but kept brass from 80 years ago. Even them you are shooting 80 year old brass. Just because you want something to happen, doesn't mean that it will.

[9.3X62AL]

Bazoo is a very focused individual.

Having never seen any LP-primed 38 Special or 357 Magnum cases myself, I have no idea.

[robertbank]

Al would you recommend he try asking Google? He might try writing Remington Arms and see if they have any historical information that might help in his search.

Why do I keep thinking just buying a couple thousand SSP would solve his problem. What am I missing?

Take Care

Bob

[9.3X62AL]

He seems hyper-focused on having all possible options available for igniting 357 Magnum cartridges. If primer availability is that large a concern, a cheaper--easie--and more fun route might be to buy a 44 Magnum revolver--ammo--reloading tools--and components. Just another way of having magnum wheelgunning regardless of what size primers you can scare up.

These ongoing droughts and shortages have really warped peoples' thinking.

[Love Life]

I have several LP 38 special cases. Kind of give you a headscratching moment when running the Dillon.

[starmac]

I have to wonder why so much concern about why he shouldn't want what he wants. I do not get into the shtf stuff, but having a million primers would do absolutely no good if something happened to where they were destroyed or even if you couldn't get to them, the same thing scenario could be said for extra different caliber firearms. I can see why he wants them, but the cost may be a big deterent for the possibility a guy would have them if and when he really needed them. Personally, I think it is a goofy thing to dwell on, but he would probably think a lot of my stuff is goofy too, soooo who am I to tell someone not to want something if it can possibly be obtained.

[robertbank]

He poses a problem and a possible solution and others consider his question, reflect on their collective life experiences and come up with some rather obvious solutions to the problem. Seems like that is how things tend to get worked out.

No matter the desire for LPP cases at some far off point in time there is a distinct possibility that his solution is no solution since if his needs are great over any sustained period of time he will run out of access to both SPP and LPP and his empty cases will remain empty.

Laying in a lifetime supply of SPP's negates the inevitable supply shortage as the shortage would not be his. The problem is with the supply of primers of any kind not the absence of LP primed 357 cases. He perceives an absence of SPP but ignores the fact LPP may also not be found. All of this is predicated on an ample supply of powder being at hand. Not a given as we now experience. Just saying.

Take Care

Bob
Love Life I think I know where there is a buyer for your LP primed cases.

[happie2shoot]

I don't think it would be that hard to do with a few thousands smaller drill bit with a stop on it
so you did not go too deep and then finish it off with a carbide LP pocket reamer.

I think you could do it with a hand drill, not even a drill press, two small 2x4 about six inches long
and a vice.

[starmac]

Robertbank, I agree, I just don't see it as my place to decide another guys wants. I can even see what his thinking is about it.
I do think if a guy wanted to he could do this with by hand, acceptable enough for what he wants, we are talking about a piece of brass.

[Bazoo]

Cant blame a guy for liking 357 magnum. Heck, i want some LPP 357s just for the historical aspects.

Anyone got a clue as to the 38 specials use of the LPP? Is it something they did to start with, or just a fad they had for a while?

[Bazoo]

I suppose my wanting to obtain lpp 357 brass aint any more crazy than some folks learning to make their own black powder. Why do folks spend countless hours tinkering with a bullet mould to get it right instead of just throwing it away and buying another? Why cant I want LPP 357 cases without a good reason? And if I can make them for say, less than 100.00, would it not be as worthy an investment as 100.oo spend on a family outing to an amusement park, if it made me happy?

[Maine1]

Bazoo is focused on have 357 ammo come what may for years.
If he sticks with it, he will likley be shooting his 357's when others are using slings and arrows.

To get LPP 357 brass, i would buy fresh Starline brass, 500-1K, and have it done by someone who knows *** he is doing with a lathe. Older brass would not be on my radar- i want something durable for the long haul with this project.

BUT...

Before I did that:

1) have thousands of peices of 38/357 brass. Lifetime supply- 15-20K? \
2) Powder for your developed loads for 357- calculate how much you will need, plus a safetey margin, and buy it. in incriments if you have to. 20 8# jugs of unique would make me pretty comfy.
3) Primers for loading all these. 100K was a number mentiioned earlier, its a good start.
4) Bullet molds for 357 in your selected profile for the end times ( keith, mihec HP, ect) Get 2-3 of these
5) Lead for above. ALOT.
6) multiple ways to cast this lead.


and 7) turn to and LOAD all this ammo. Come SHTF you want loaded ammo that was created when you werE sharp and alert, not half starved, exhausted and worrying about the zombies outside.
8) Store this ammo well, in multiple locations.


9) then worry about LPP brass.



Just like the "scrounging after SHTF"...it might no be nesesary if one plans ahead- you are already doing so by focusing your resources on ONE caliber.

[FLHTC]

Bazoo,
The 45 Government was loaded with a special sized proprietary primer for power, which I found reference to on page 46 of Lyman's 35th edition. This manual has a 1948 publishing date and it states that the 45 government used the special primer, which was one of three primer sizes commonly used, large and small pistol and the one for the 45 Government. It's quite possible that the post war 357 cases shared this primer in the quest for power that would be head and shoulders above the 38 Special.
I personally have had large pistol primed 38's but never any 357's. The cases you search for might be too sloppy for what we call a large pistol primer anyway.

[DukeInFlorida]

Dang, I previously tossed a BUNCH of older "Herters" large primer 357 mags. I hadn't seen such a thing before until I dug into a batch of older brass a while back. The small primer fell right out at the press, and upon investigation, see that this was one of the companies that made some this way. They are long gone to the scrapper, since it wasn't practical for me to keep them separate.

Other than having a few for show and tell in your brass collection, it's not worth converting 357 Mag from small primer to large primer. The manufacturers of the powder and primers figured out a long time ago how to make the system work with small primers. Use small pistol magnum primers if you are worried about ignition. Just be sure to start at a starting load, and work up slowly, looking for signs of pressure.

I shoot 99% 38 specials. And, I haven't had to reload 357 magnums in a long while. If I do, and if I bump into some more of the old Herters large primer brass, I'll try to keep this thread in mind.

[pme166]

http://eickpm.com/picts/large_vs_small.jpg

large pistol primed brass can be found at gun shows if you look for it.

Starline was approached about making a run of large pistol primed 38/44's (38 special case with the 38/44HS headstamp) but the deal fell through. At the time we needed buy 50K of the brass and not enough of us wanted it as badly as I did.

I suggest you see if you can drum up enough orders to have starline make a run for you. By the time you can pull together the orders, they are probably going to be through their backlog and can crank it off then.

[paul h]

The most practical way to do this would be to buy a small lathe or mill and suitable tooling and have at it. You can't just whittle out the holes with a drill press, you'll need an appropriately sized two flute end mill a few thousandths undersize and then you'll want to swage the primer pocket to size. It's not rocket science, just drilling a pocket consistently to the right dia and depth.

I'm with the others in that I'd put the money needed for the tooling into 10-20k of primers and hermetically seal them. From what I've seen in the past, when primers dry up, it'll be both small and large pistol primers that disappear.

[9.3X62AL]

I wasn't trying to discredit Bazoo's inquiry--in my first response I specifically addressed that his project was none of my business to critique. I retain that feeling. I would add that there are other less labor-intensive ways to go about getting where he wants to go, but that may not be germane to the thrust of his thread. Heck, if you guys want to get Starline to make X,000 357 Magnum cases with LPP pockets to help out Bazoo, I'll buy 500 just for grins and novelty factor. They won't go to waste.

[Bazoo]

Lets forget for a minute any reasoning behind the idea. Besides any reasons I might could think of either for against it, its what I want. It, to me, is the historical aspect that intrigues me. For me, its the same reason I looked at a navy arms schoffield revolver today in the gun store. Sure, They are obsolete and not as good as anything you can get now. But they are pretty dang neat.

Those that suggest I should just buy a lifetime supply of sp primers, to you, i pose a question in return. Why dont you just buy a lifetime supply of factory ammo instead of loading or casting your own? Get the picture.

[Bazoo]

As a side, i believe im going to get a sinclair uniformer, with drill adapter. And try reaming some out on my drill press. It might not work. Maybe it will though. its worth 40 or 50 bucks to me to find out. Might cut clean enough to seat properly. If that dont work, i'll find a .210 bit and drill it first, then ream it. I'll report back, as to my progress either way after I get the needed items and needed gumption.

[MT Gianni]

Those that suggest I should just buy a lifetime supply of sp primers, to you, i pose a question in return. Why dont you just buy a lifetime supply of factory ammo instead of loading or casting your own? Get the picture.
No, not in the least. 10,000 sp primers are $240 this past week at Graf and Sons. I have no idea what 10K rds of factory would run. I honestly can't see your line of reasoning. Feel free to explain more her or by PM.

[dragon813gt]

Those that suggest I should just buy a lifetime supply of sp primers, to you, i pose a question in return. Why dont you just buy a lifetime supply of factory ammo instead of loading or casting your own? Get the picture.

Apples and oranges. It's not a good comparison. I recently scrapped about 500 pieces of LP 38 brass. You could easily load a bullet long in them to attain 357 levels. Peters used to make them so I would be on the lookout for them.

[robertbank]

Those that suggest I should just buy a lifetime supply of sp primers, to you, i pose a question in return. Why dont you just buy a lifetime supply of factory ammo instead of loading or casting your own? Get the picture.

I guess it is just looking at the problem in a practical manner. 10K of SPP for loading survival rounds would do most people several lifetimes and cost around $300 - $400 and you would solve any future shortage problems I could imagine. This is after all the concern you appeared to have in your initial post.

If you view the project as an interesting quest than my answer would be totally different. I would say fill your boots and let us know how it works out. But if the issue is a concern for the need of primers in some SHTF scenario and you are concerned about a potential shortage than I respectfully suggest you lay in in a lifetime supply of SPP and powder at nominal cost and hunker down.

The next 20 odd years appear pretty promising so my view is somewhat different than yours might be because that in all likelihood is about how long I will live, God willing. That said, for the cost of a couple hundred dollars I can load a couple thousand .357mag cases using my home cast boolits. Two thousand factory cartridges would cost me about $1,400. locally plus tax. That is why I would not go out and buy factory loads, I am cheap! This is all predicated on the assumption I feel the need for such preemptive action...I don't so I won't.

Take Care

Bob

[44man]

No matter, the LP is too much in the .38 or .357, more so with cast. i see no use to even try.

[paul h]

As a side, i believe im going to get a sinclair uniformer, with drill adapter. And try reaming some out on my drill press. It might not work. Maybe it will though. its worth 40 or 50 bucks to me to find out. Might cut clean enough to seat properly. If that dont work, i'll find a .210 bit and drill it first, then ream it. I'll report back, as to my progress either way after I get the needed items and needed gumption.


A few problems with the drill bit. Drill bits have an angled point, so you can't drill a flat pocket. Drill bits don't drill round holes. Drill bits tend to drill a few thousandths oversize.

You can get a 0.210" two flute end mill i.e. a slot drill which will produce a round flat hole. The issue is since there is no pilot to guide the mill into the case, you will have to have the case rigidly held and since the only mills made in that size are solid carbide you'll need a rigid tool to drive them, i.e. a mill.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/37290533

No one is saying it can't be done, and many are providing the means to do the job properly. That said there is a reason those who know how to do the job properly also know that there are good reasons to approach the "problem" differently.

[9.3X62AL]

I see "cabin fever" is setting on already, these sorts of posts don't normally appear until February. Do whatever blows your dress up, Bazoo--some people just seem to need to p-e on the electric fence to verify its charge status. Have at it.

[454PB]

I went back and looked at my notes. I used a #5 drill (.2005") bit with the point ground nearly flat to open the primer pocket. I then used a Lyman primer pocket uniformer to insure a flat bottom on the hole. I also used a #45 drill bit to open (actually clear) the flash hole, since the process of drill and reaming produces burrs that restrict the flash hole opening. All of this was done in my lathe, and it is a time consuming process.......but there it is if you want to go with it.

[Bazoo]

454pb that is useful information. thank you.