What best use in ROA

[Mach_Cat]

Just picked up a couple ruger old army's. Never shot black powder before. Mostly plan to use these for cowboy shooting. What is the best load, powder and wad for this?
What is best used for cleaning these after shooting. One stainless the other blued.
thanks ed

[Nobade]

Oh man, this is going to get interesting. I'll start. My loads for the ROA are a .457" soft lead ball, a 1/8" lubricated hard felt wad, around 35 gr. FFFg black powder, and a CCI #11 cap. Hits to the sights and cuts one hole groups at 25 yards off the rest. (I use enough powder to make the ball come out just below the mouth of the cylinder. Depending on powder density that may be 35 - 40 gr, but it's not critical.)

Guns are cleaned with water and a toothbrush for the outside, bore patched out with a water soaked patch, cylinders cleaned by removing the nipples and soaking everything. Toothbrush the outside, test tube brush for the chambers, grease the nipple threads on reassembly, everything gets spray Ballistol inside and out. (Except I don't oil the chambers.) Takes maybe 15 minutes, and guns look like new forever - no rust ever.

Now, let's hear the other 200 ways you can shoot and clean these wonderful revolvers...... (only slight sarcasm, since they are very versatile and there are many ways to shoot and clean them as you'll see.)

-Nobade

[rodwha]

It seems, as with many repros, that the most accurate load is somewhere in the 18-22 grn range with Cream of Wheat as filler. My dad gave me a bunch of this when he gave me my ROA. I did this once. It's fairly tedious to an already tedious action, and adds another variable to consistency. I quit doing it.

I don't shoot ball much, but I do believe my ROA did best with 35 grns of 3F Olde Eynsford or Triple 7 powder as it does with both my 170 and 195 grn bullets. I also intend on hunting with mine and 18-22 grns with some cereal just isn't going to cut it! I use what I'd typically use in the field, and 35 grns ought to give me .45 ACP performance from the powders I'm using compared to other's chronograph results it seems.

I use a small plastic container a little longer than a shoe box for storing my cleaning gear and for cleaning in. I run warm/hot water and use dish soap. I disassemble and allow to sit a moment. I use a bronze bore brush and a bronze wire brush. For the nipple areas I use pipe cleaners with stiff plastic things embedded in them. Works great! I use a small plastic cup with plain water to hold all of the nipples and small parts after they've been cleaned. Once everything is done I towel dry and place in my dishwasher and use the dry cycle. I often get small bits of flash rust that a brush will remove. I then oil down with Ballistol. However, I'm wondering if the dishwasher dry cycle is really all that wonderful as Ballistol is an oil that will mix with water. After the water evaporates you are left with oil. Ballistol is wonderful stuff too!

Ballistol doesn't make a great long term oil. I go back several months later and refill them. Sometimes I find small spots of surface rust.

I've read that if you are short on time you can douse your gun in Ballistol which will mix with the powder residue and keep it from being able to absorb water, which will give you some time. I tried this and left my two pistols in the garage where it's humid (TX). It worked rather well.

[FLHTC]

I doubt that Bill Ruger produced the ROA from any lesser grade material than the Blackhawks, Redhawks and Super Blackhawks were made from. I haven't cleaned mine in quite a while. I'll leave it at that.:popcorn:

[ShooterAZ]

As mentioned 35 gr. of FFFG over a .457 round ball is perfect for best accuracy. I use Remington #10 caps in my ROA. I also use the Lee 250 REAL conical boolit sized .454 and lubed with 50/50 bees wax/olive oil blend for hunting. Some serious knockdown power with that one. I clean with hot water followed by Butch's Bore Shine Black Powder formula. Great stuff. I oil down the exterior with a light coating of CLP for storage. Enjoy your ROA!

PS: If you use Pyrodex, clean Immediately after shooting!

[bubba.50]

I have no idea what's "BEST" in yer Old Army but, the Lee conical designed specifically for the Ruger along with 30gr pyrodex P was awesome in the one I had.

no problems whatsoever with Remington #11's but, CCI #10 caps had to be run around the cylinder twice on my gun. never in about 50 rounds did one go off on the first strike.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Lots of good info so far.
I never had any good luck with conicals, tried the Lee as well as the collar button...maybe it's my technique ???
ANYWAY,
I've found the 457 RB is the way to go for me and my STS ROA.
and the most accurate load I found was 25gr FFF and 15gr cornmeal.



It seems, as with many repros, that the most accurate load is somewhere in the 18-22 grn range with Cream of Wheat as filler. My dad gave me a bunch of this when he gave me my ROA. I did this once. It's fairly tedious to an already tedious action, and adds another variable to consistency. I quit doing it.
...snip

Yeah, it can be a little more tedious.
What I do is fill a powder horn with cornmeal and measure it like I do with the BP.
Below is a simple solution for me. a 45 case soldered to a 9 case. custom trimed to get the 25gr measurement as well as 15gr.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/100_0696.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/100_0696.jpg.html)

[Mach_Cat]

What does the corn meal do for the load? Why do you need filler over the powder?
Would like more info on what wads to use? do you guys make your own?

Thanks for all the info so far.
Ed

[Mach_Cat]

Any have a 457 RB mold to sell? I do have a post up in the wanted section.
thanks Ed

[bubba.50]

the corn meal is simply to fill the extra space in the chamber when usin' lite loads. it keeps the ball at the end of the cylinder preventin' a big jump from there to the barrel that could affect accuracy.

[ShooterAZ]

Black powder & pyrodex is more consistent when it is compressed. That's why the fillers.

[John Allen]

Oh man, this is going to get interesting. I'll start. My loads for the ROA are a .457" soft lead ball, a 1/8" lubricated hard felt wad, around 35 gr. FFFg black powder, and a CCI #11 cap. Hits to the sights and cuts one hole groups at 25 yards off the rest. (I use enough powder to make the ball come out just below the mouth of the cylinder. Depending on powder density that may be 35 - 40 gr, but it's not critical.)

Guns are cleaned with water and a toothbrush for the outside, bore patched out with a water soaked patch, cylinders cleaned by removing the nipples and soaking everything. Toothbrush the outside, test tube brush for the chambers, grease the nipple threads on reassembly, everything gets spray Ballistol inside and out. (Except I don't oil the chambers.) Takes maybe 15 minutes, and guns look like new forever - no rust ever.

Now, let's hear the other 200 ways you can shoot and clean these wonderful revolvers...... (only slight sarcasm, since they are very versatile and there are many ways to shoot and clean them as you'll see.)

-Nobade


Nobade, we are pretty much identical. I also put anti seize on the nipples when I am done.

[John Allen]

Lots of good info so far.
I never had any good luck with conicals, tried the Lee as well as the collar button...maybe it's my technique ???
ANYWAY,
I've found the 457 RB is the way to go for me and my STS ROA.
and the most accurate load I found was 25gr FFF and 15gr cornmeal.




Yeah, it can be a little more tedious.
What I do is fill a powder horn with cornmeal and measure it like I do with the BP.
Below is a simple solution for me. a 45 case soldered to a 9 case. custom trimed to get the 25gr measurement as well as 15gr.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/100_0696.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/100_0696.jpg.html)



Jon, that is a neat idea. I am going to use this on my stuff.

[FLHTC]

I can't resist....if Trailboss is mild enough for 19th century Colts, the ROA will love it. And it does.

[Mach_Cat]

Trasil boss smokeless powder? how much do you use?

[FLHTC]

Trasil boss smokeless powder? how much do you use?

PM sent

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

What does the corn meal do for the load? Why do you need filler over the powder?
Would like more info on what wads to use? do you guys make your own?

Thanks for all the info so far.
Ed
I don't use a wad...I guess the cornmeal is kind of a wad ?
the cornmeal on top of a lighter load allows the RB to be seated to the end of the cylinder...Just where I want it.

I also smear some Lube over the RB after it's seated, Beargrease in the wintertime or my ML lube (olive oil/beeswax) in the summertime.

[swathdiver]

Ruger used to brag that one could fill the chambers full with smokeless powder, seat the ball, fit the cap and fire it off and the gun would not blow up. They are that tough. They are however meant to be a black powder sixgun, the best and toughest of them all.

[True.grit]

If you use corn meal as a filler it gives you that fresh baked smell of cornbread. LOL
Your point of aim might detmine your powder charge, at least it does with mine. Happy shootin

[Mach_Cat]

In cowboy, we always load only 5. Would it be okay to leave one nipple off so as not to damage any thing if accidently dry fire that chamber. Sometimes loose count When in the heat of the match. Mainly cause I am not thar good.

[True.grit]

I would not fire on a naked nipple. Might damage / mushroom. If you are only loading five remove one nipple and make sure not to charge with powder and ball.

[Mach_Cat]

That is what was asking if it was okay to remove a nipple.
Thanks

[True.grit]

That is what was asking if it was okay to remove a nipple.
Thanks
O sorry I missed that. Thats what I would do.

[Mohillbilly]

My Ruger ROA instructions claim " no amount of black powder or substitute/replica powder and ball " could over load . Also ROA factory nipples are not struck by the hammer if there is no cap . Of course if it is changed out for after market they may be high , or if you don't run down the factory nipples . I checked my ROA AND IT IS SO ON MINE . I load Pyro till the cylinder is full , and card off the excess with a business card . I use an oxyoke felt,prelubed wad , thumb it on and ram , then start a ball with the spru nib out centered as best I can , and ram the ball as hard as I can . Black is different in that it does not compress as much as Pyro . Use your measure and find the proper setting so that the ball can compress the wad/powder load , AND get the ball all the way in ....