I need help wiring my lathe.

[MaLar]

I have an old South Bend 11" swing 5' bed 1923 lathe.
It came with an old 1/2 HP motor when I got it.
Well the old motor finally got old and tired, had to pull on the counter shaft pulley to get it to run.
I bought a new 1/2 HP motor and doesn't have the power of the old motor.
I bought a HF 1HP motor.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-horsepower-farm-duty-agricultural-motor-68288.html

And I have a Square D drum switch.
When I wired the second motor the wires where color coded not so with the HF motor.
They are numbered.
P1, P2, T3, -T8.
Are there any electricians out there or someone in the know that will help?

Oh and read the reviews on the motor stop button what stop button. I think they were referring to the reset button pretty funny some people should stay away from these kind of things.

Thanks LaMar

[5Shot]

220v?

[MaLar]

110v-120v

[fast ronnie]

If it's 220, it's possible. It's been a while since I did mine and can't remember all of it. One leg has to be routed through and will remain hot at all times. The other leg has to be crossed going through the switch. There will be two wires that have to have the connections reversed to start in the opposite direction. If I remember correctly, one incoming hot lead has to be hooked up in the center position. If yo draw a diagram of the switch terminals on a piece of paper, then draw connecting lines to the terminals, it can be figured out. The wiring on each motor is different, depending on brand. It isn't according to hoyle, but can be done. My lathe has been running on a drum switch for nearly thirty years like that. One problem with doing it that way, though. if you drop the switched leg and not the other, it can (probably will) burn up the motor if you don't catch it immediately. Want to guess how I know That? If you still can't figure it out, pm me and I can pull mine apart and trace the wires. I've been through this a couple of times myself.

[beroen]

There should be a wiring diagram on the motor or on the little panel you took off to get to the wires post a picture of it.. it's a multi tap motor and if I can't see that diagram I can't tell you anything.

Also need to know what your old one was running on 240 or 120

[beroen]

Ok it was in the manual here's 2 examples am going to use pictures because it's late and I can scribble faster than type, excuse the spelling and grammar and yes after 15 years of electrical I can't seem to ever spell neutral right Damn! But this should help you to understand the hieroglyphics there.
I don't know witch model you actually have. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/26/b7e5e72fe54878751b1410c5af291695.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/26/42a570a759c0509035e284ff497537d0.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/26/e63bf52f01d3a5425b062b7136d5b51e.jpg

[1johnlb]

Make sure you've got the same rpm motor. It should be stamped on the plate, some of those smaller motors have to be wired a certain way for high and low speed

[6bg6ga]

Sometimes its best just to take the motor to a rewind shop and let them rebuild it. You get the same motor back it fits as it should and it wires back up the same. Just my .02

[5Shot]

Per your OP you are shy some wires in the box...Where are T2, T4 and T5? Are they in the box and already connected together?

[beroen]

Make sure you've got the same rpm motor. It should be stamped on the plate, some of those smaller motors have to be wired a certain way for high and low speed
It's a single listed RPM motor.. variable by control

Sometimes its best just to take the motor to a rewind shop and let them rebuild it. You get the same motor back it fits as it should and it wires back up the same. Just my .02
That's about 4 times the cost of this. Certain scenarios it's well worth it but it doesn't sound like this is one

Per your OP you are shy some wires in the box...Where are T2, T4 and T5? Are they in the box and already connected together?
He has all of them see the little -he put in there.



Disregard the diagram on the right in the small box the motor you have is the big box diagram... but I still can't tell you exactly how to hook it up because of rotation.. stand over the motor with the shaft facing out and that is the rotation... use the appropriate chart. Your squareD switch should be fine unless you took it all apart.

[bangerjim]

Follow the above instructions and the diagram in the book that came with your motor.

It is simply an 1800 RPM 120V 1HP single phase motor. YOU can wire it for CW or CCW rotation. Normally a SB lathe should has a drum reversing switch to allow you to reverse the motor easily. That is what the wiring differences show you. Just bring the approporiate wires to the drum switch and land. Depending on what you do with your lathe, you may never need to reverse it. I do it all the time with mine SB, using my VFD. Before that, the drum switch on the front apron of the stand.

Your old 1/2 HP definitely has (had) more developed HP than new cheaper 1/2HP motors today! That new 1HP HF motor has SOME more power than the old one and should do a good job for you. Depends on how it is built as to developed power output. My, how times have changed.

Good luck with your magical trip into "sparky land"!

banger

[MaLar]

I'm thinking this is what I was looking for other than not having a T1 and T9 lead.122853

[doc1876]

I think this is the manule for what beroen was showing you

http://www.adventignitions.com/pdf/SeaDoo/SD-dual-e.pdf

[doc1876]

no, I can't spell manual, or minuet

[MaLar]

Success!!!!!!! This is what I used. Thanks to everyone for your help. 122979

[akajun]

I'm glad you got it going, but you will be disappointed in the hf motor as they will hum, and it will show up in the work. I would have the old motor rebuilt, but to be honest it sounds like it just needs a new start capacitor, which is something you could easily do yourself . If you don't want to do the rebuild , get a three phase motor and vfd for fingertip speed changes.

[bangerjim]

You can mount the HF motor on thick rubber pads to try to minimize the vibration. And figure out some way to isolate the bolts also!!! Old motors were suspended in a C frame cradle and that mounting shank on either side had rubber in it to minimize the hum carry over. New ones hum like a beech. My old 1/2 and 1HP motors are very quite! A new one I have will run you out of the room.

As said above.....the hum/vibration is of more concern in the ripples you will see in the surface of your work! Definitely a potential problem....but depends on how well you isolate the new motor from the lathe frame and it's mounting carriage. It can be done. There will be a little carry over thru the belt, but nothing to worry about. It's the metal to metal contact you need to break up.

Most of those HF motors are mainly built for compressor duty and the motor vibrations are nothing compared to the compressor banging around! And the last time I checked, my farmer friends did not care how much noise/vibration their grain auger motors made.

good luck.

bangerjim

[MaLar]

The motor is not mounted too the lathe. It is mounted on a stand behind the machine. There is a cam over linkage that tightens the flat belt to the machine. I'll look for some ripples when I do some finish cuts. If so we'll figure some thing else out.

Thanks for your input LaMar