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View Full Version : RCBS sizing die - primer ejector brakes twice!?



jayjay1
11-25-2014, 08:28 AM
Hello gentlemen,
after Hornady, Dillon, Lee and Lyman, I bought my first (used) RCBS die set in .38/357.

Iīve loaded some .38 Special on my Dillon 550 with the sizing die on station 1.

Within making only 100 rounds, I broke the primer ejector pin twice, which didnīt happen with the other die sets over years.

What the heck is wrong with this?
Did I make a mistake?

Ordered some pins now, but donīt want to break those too.

Begging for help or info.

6bg6ga
11-25-2014, 08:36 AM
I realize that you have probably already done this but I would re-measure the original pin diameter and make sure the new pin diameter is correct. Second I would check to see that the decapping pin is coming down straight instead of at an angle. I have to ask ...what type of brass is this? If its military brass the primer could be staked in?

jayjay1
11-25-2014, 08:49 AM
No military brass, Boxer primers, no Berdan.

If the new pins come in, I will measure them.
And I will be aware, that the pin comes down straight.

Thanks.

Have never took care of that, with the other dies I never had that problem (inspite with Hornady and rifle brass).

kungfustyle
11-25-2014, 08:54 AM
It's happened twice to me on two different sets of RCBS dies. I didn't have a problem after RCBS sent me replacements. Agreed check the angle and center of the rod, could be off center? You may want to call RCBS and run it by them. They may just replace the thing.....

cheese1566
11-26-2014, 09:03 PM
Hate to suggest....but make sure the decal rod is adjusted to a height that the pin will push the spent primer out , but high enough to keep the nut from hitting the internal case bottom. Also, make sure the recap rod is snug with the top lock nut.

kevmc
11-29-2014, 09:35 PM
hate to suggest....but make sure the decal rod is adjusted to a height that the pin will push the spent primer out , but high enough to keep the nut from hitting the internal case bottom. Also, make sure the recap rod is snug with the top lock nut.


this!!

country gent
11-29-2014, 09:58 PM
Measure the broken pins or the new pins and call the local tool supply store and buy a few drill blanks in that dia. Use a cut off wheel to trim them to legth and radious one end. The drill blanks are hardened but not to the point of being brittle. Radiousing the bottom of the pin allows itto "center" better in the fired anvil and keeps spent primers from sticking to the pin to be pulled back into pocket

wv109323
11-30-2014, 12:13 AM
I broke some pins on a set of Lyman .223 Rem. dies. What was happening with me was the the decapping stem was working loose. The nut on top of the die was thin and would allow the stem to come loose with usage. I would bend the pin first and then break it when it the pin was not aligned with the primer hole.
The Dillon 550B at station 1 has the "paperclip" to hold the case in position. The case should be entering the die before the decapping pin goes through the primer flash hole. If not the paperclip will not hold the case in the exact position so that the decapping pin enters the primer flash hole first. This misalignment could cause the decapping pin to hit the case.

wrench man
11-30-2014, 02:49 AM
I find that if the "Cartridge Spring" at station one isn't holding the shell firmly in the shell plate the die body or the expander hits the shell mouth, usually I stop and see what the problem is?, and some times I tear the side of the shell out!
Only issues I've ever had with decapping pins was with crimped military brass, but I've always locked down the decap/expanding stem with it down in the shell so the flash hole has it centered.