almost ready to start casting - what alloy combo to shoot for?

[wquiles]

I got the Forum's Lead Calculator (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?105952-Lead-alloy-calculators) (awesome!), and I got Isotope lead ingots (the ones without Zinc, from Hammerlane (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?257961-lt-lt-lt-lt-ISOTOPE-LEAD-For-SALE-gt-gt-gt-gt-gt)), clean hardball boolits that I melted into my DIY ingots (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?259483-DIY-ingot-molds), and linotype ingots at my disposal. I will be casting using a bottom pour #1 ladle, from the Lee Pro 4 20lb furnace.

I got a .460", 355gr, gas checked, Ranch Dog mold (2-cavity, Accurate 460-355RG) with the tumble lube grooves, that i understand can be "picky" to fill. I want to be able to push this up to 1700-1800fps for the "hot" loads, and about 1100-1200 for more practice/fun loads.

With the lead calculator I can mix the right amount to achieve a "target" alloy, but not sure that target to aim for (alloy-wise). What alloy and temperate recommendation you guys suggest as a starting point?

Thanks,
Will

[Shiloh]

The short answer is whatever works. I use a harder alloy for rifle, and pure range scrap for handguns. That being said, I never load up past midrange loads. I keep some records, but don't have a hardness tester.

Shiloh

[Tatume]

Like Shiloh said, whatever works for you. For many years I just used straight wheel weight metal. Then I found it getting scarce, and starting mixing 50/50 wheel weight metal and range scrap. Now that I have abundant metal at my disposal, I like to use a specific alloy, 2/3/95 tin/antimony/lead. It casts well, and shoots well in my high performance revolver and rifle loads. However, I can't really claim that it shoots any better than wheel weight metal (it might, but I haven't done enough testing to support the claim).

[popper]

You didn't state gun or twist. You will probably need 2-3% Sb. Don't know the assay of the hammerlane isocore but I've shot ~1900 308MX PB with a 6/2 mix. I didn't chrony the GC shots, probably well above 2200. GCd you could probably add more pure.

[bangerjim]

I cast 9-12 for subsonic and plinking. 14 or so for sonic rifle ~1500FPS. Higher are all FMJ's.

Then powder coat all the cast for no grease, no leading, no smoke. And I hold my mouth right!

Your calc will get you in the 1Bhn range if your ingot weighs are accurate and you measure them out correctly. I use the calc for all my mixes and normally hit the hardness within 1 unit!

Have fun making those little lead thingies! And even more fun shootin' em.

banger

[wquiles]

Thank you guys :-)


You didn't state gun or twist. You will probably need 2-3% Sb. Don't know the assay of the hammerlane isocore but I've shot ~1900 308MX PB with a 6/2 mix. I didn't chrony the GC shots, probably well above 2200. GCd you could probably add more pure.

H&R Handy Rifle, 1-20" twist.

[popper]

With that slow twist I'd start with 50/50, add Iso till it works right (or the other way around). Then tweak the load for best accuracy. I tried Iso in 300BO PB, too hard even for high end loads.

[ShooterAZ]

The IsoCore should be 1/3/96. Perfect for most handgunning. You can water drop for low-medium velocity rifle.

[dragon813gt]

The IsoCore should be 1/3/96. Perfect for most handgunning. You can water drop for low-medium velocity rifle.

Was just going to post the same. The isotope cores are almost the perfect lead. I shoot it unmodified from low power handgun loads to full power 308 loads. The only time I change the alloy is for hunting. I get to 96/2/2 for reliable expansion w/ no brittleness. You really don't have to play w/ the alloy for most applications.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Kind of hard to go wrong using either Isocore lead by itself of 50/50 alloy.Robert

[georgerkahn]

Haven't seen mention of temp... I'd suggest a good "spot" would be in the 750* area; keeping it this "cool" will hopefully keep zinc from melting in, while being hot enough to fill your mould. Two things to keep in mind -- you regularly read about the tinsel fairies on this site -- often NOT nice fairies: It takes an incredibly small amount of moisture in your lead pot to make a humongous splash of molten alloy -- pre-heat your mould, as well as alloy you add to pot; which brings up the "usual": cotton clothes, SAFETY GLASSES!!, gloves, strong fans to suck away nasty fumes, and the like. And, don't forget flux. Suggest getting/reading, say, the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook (I like 3rd edition), or even the Fryxell (sp?) book which is free, online, vis the Los Angeles silhouette site ( http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm ). BE SAFE!
BEST!
georgerkahn

[hickfu]

I have loaded my Tombstone boolits from very lite to almost 458 Win Mag velocities (yeah I know I was pushing it in a lever gun) in my 1895SBL Co-Pilot with 3/4 WW alloy to 1/4 Pure with 2% Pewter added and water quenched. For the lite loads I air cool...

[wquiles]

Thank you guys. Looking forward to casting my first 45-70 bullets this week :)

[robg]

i just use coww ,soww & a couple of yards of lead free plumbers solder . works in my 308 & 357