Possible Luber/sizer Heater Thermostat

[leadman]

I was at Home Depot buying some roof sealer when I noticed this fan switch by the attic ventilation fans. I am wanting to put a thermostat control in my motor home for the ventilation fan so it will turn itself on and off.
Then I got to thinking that this might be used as a thermostat for a luber/sizer for those that do not want to buy a pid. At one time I had an older Midway brand heater that had a switch just like this built into the heater.
I am thinking of mounting this on an aluminum plate that the heater is mounted to so it would duplicate closely the design of the Midway heater.
Cost was $26.50122570122571122572

The dimensions are 3"W X 3 1/2"L X 2" Tall.

The stop for the thermostat dial could be modified if more than 120 degrees heat was needed.

[Yodogsandman]

Good idea! Where's the sensor located on it?

[leadman]

This uses a bimetal switch just like a hot plate. It you see the purple washers in the picture in line with the control knob the bimetal strips are to the right. Same setup as the Midway lube heater I had.

These are not normally the most accurate controls but should be good enough for a lube heater. I don't need the control for my motor home until hot weather so I am going to adapt it to my Lyman heater just to see how it works.

[Mike W1]

Just took a look at HomeDepot.com Looks like $26.50 for that thing. I built a PID for about $30 and some scraps and my time. I'm thinking that's the way I'd go if I were gonna do something.

[6bg6ga]

You can actually do a PID for within $5 of the price of the attic fan switch and end up with something that not only last longer but provide better accuracy.

[leadman]

I have 3 pids that I use on my pots and ovens and supplies to build a couple of more.
This would be much easier for the members that do not know how to build a pid as it is very simple wiring. 122767

[dragon813gt]

The problem is the sensor; or lack of one. The bimetallic strip is in the middle of the box. Sure you can sit it on the heater. But it's more than likely going to heat soak or never cycle the power off. Bimetallic strips/coils are one of the most inaccurate ways to control temperature. There is a reason they've gone the way of the dodo when it comes to HVAC controls.

A simpler and cheaper option is a rheostat. While it won't control temperature. It will control current so you have control of how much heat the heater is putting out. They are power in, power out so there is nothing to wiring them. Even though I have a PID I use a rheostat to control the lubesizer heater.

[rbertalotto]

You really don't need a PID or automatic temperature control on your lube / sizer. On a lead pot as the level of lead decreases, the temperature rises. Sometimes dramatically on the small LEE pot. This is the main reason for automatic monitoring temperature control.

On a lube heater, the temp stays very constant. I have a Lyman under my Star and I use a simple aquarium remote thermometer to read temperature and a light dimmer to vary the temperature. Once I set it, it does not vary even a little bit.

[mold maker]

One deep 4" sq box w/combination plate, a cable clamp, a HD light dimmer, a receptacle, and a cord with plug. Less than $16. and done.
Built one in the 70s, and still going strong.
If you split the recp, you get a spare recp on your bench.