What rod are you using to do pound cast

[glockky]

Alright I have searched and am not able to find posts about different kinds of rod you use for pound cast. I know it Goodsteel's excellent post on how to do a pound cast he used 1/4" steel rod wrapped in masking tape. But wanted to hear other options.

I have several rifles that I figure doing a pound cast would really help me get some better groups at higher velocity. It just kills me to think of putting a steel rod down the bore of my rifle and go to hammering on it. Call me crazy I just would hate to tear up one of my rifles.

If you do use steel where do you find a good really straight piece of steel. I work with metal a lot and it seems once you get down to 1/4" round stock most of it is not really straight. That worries me about part of the rod hitting the rifling as I am hammering.

How much hammering is usually needed to get the cast done?

[5Shot]

I bought a brass rod, but that was years ago and they might cost a fortune now.

[glockky]

I wouldn't care to pay it considering everything I shoot is 30cal. and up. I could buy a 1/4" rod and cover everything. But I am not sure where to even go about getting one.

[GabbyM]

I bought two brass rods 36" long at the local farm supply, Rural King, store. They were $4 or $5 each IIRC. 3/16th and 1/4" to cover 22's thru 30's. I mainly bought them for removing things stuck in bores. Like when you extract a tight fitting boolit but it stays behind and powder dumps out in your action. I keep them under the foam in my hard case. All you need for a bullet remover is a six inch or so piece to drop down the bore.

[waco]

I wouldn't care to pay it considering everything I shoot is 30cal. and up. I could buy a 1/4" rod and cover everything. But I am not sure where to even go about getting one.

My local toy&hobby shop carries an assortment of brass rods. Something I need to invest in myself....

[NavyVet1959]

I bought a pack of door hinge pins that were listed as brass so that I would be able to unstick a bullet from a handgun and after using it, I checked it with a magnet and then realized that it was just brass plated.

[Hannibal]

I have collected several different steel rods for this purpose. I use the masking tape technique as described by Goodsteel and have had no problems with it. I use the largest diameter rod I can still freely pass thru the bore with the tape applied, paying extra attention to the ends. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries on the muzzle end. Roll the rod on a flat surface to check for straightness. Tweak on it until you get it true, then store it in a safe place. Take the time to do it right, irreguardless to the rod you choose.

As to the amount of hammering required, you will feel the difference when the lead has fully filled the chamber. It will be as if you are hitting the end of the rod with the other end on a concrete floor. Once this 'feeling' is acheived, I give the rod two more strikes with the hammer. And remember, a large ball-peen or small shop hammer swung with a firm but controlled strike is the key. We're not trying to drive a fence post here.

And do not forget the gas check or paper at the chamber end. Don't want to gouge your barrel down there, either.

[fecmech]

I use a steel rod bought at Home Depot with masking tape wraps to bore size about every 6". No way for the rod to touch the rifling. I use a 1/4" rod for .30 cal and 5/16" for .35's.

[williamwaco]

Machinist, please chime in here.

In the olden days, all the gunsmith books recommended the use of only one piece steel rods. The reasons given were

1) The joints might get dinged, raise a burr, and scratch the bore.

2) Wear or abrasion, occurs when a hard particle gets embedded in a soft object and rubbed against another object. As in sand paper, grinding compound, etc. The softer the rod, the more likely it is to pick up a particle and rub it against your bore causing wear or worse, a scratch.

I have never used anything but one piece steel rods and I have never damaged a bore. ( Of course the end result does not prove the assumption is correct. )

[tomme boy]

For rifles, I have coated one piece steel rods with a brass end. Works for me.

[Mike W1]

I got a short brass rod from Track of the Wolf, seems like they were in Elk River, MN. Can't remember what lengths they had. Most of the online places were outrageous on shipping charges which is why I settled on them.

[MBTcustom]

Steel is used because it has the strength not to buckle in between the tape bearings and it absorbs none of the energy from the hammer and passes it cleanly into the lead slug. I use O-1 tool steel rod bought from McMaster Carr. It is very strong, straight, and rigid. Much better than cold rolled, but cold rolled is better than brass by a long shot.

The object is to transfer the shock of the hammer deep into the lead slug. This is why we use a steel rod. This is why we use a big hammer, and this is why we just tap with straight, following, measured strokes.
I think people are envisioning whomping the living bleeping blank out of the rod with a big hammer, and that is just not the case!
Do me a favor:
cast a boolit out of soft pure lead. Place it nose up on a hard surface. Take your big hammer and tell me how hard you have to hit it to make it swell in the middle by .005 inches.


This is not a harsh operation. This is a very controlled operation that requires finesse. The rod is made of steel so that the stroke of the hammer is carried deep into the slug.
If you were to use an aluminum rod, and a light weight hammer, you would never swell the neck of the slug properly.
As it is, I usually make the slug and push it out, then file off the rifling marks, spritz it with case lube, reinsert and do it again till I get a very clean, well filled out, perfect impression of the chamber. Usually, the third time is a charm.

[dragon813gt]

If you can't find the rods locally you can purchase them from McMaster Carr. There is always something I need from them anyway. Nice thing is that they sent them in a nice heavy duty cardboard tube. Care to guess where they are stored :)

[alamogunr]

Go here:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?216105-Slugging-a-barrel-Brass-or-Steel-Rod

Lots of information and arguments for various ways of making a pound cast(impact throat casting). I've got my preference on the kind of rod and others prefer something different. Some modify either one.

[bigarm]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but can someone post a link to this "pound cast" method and how does that differ from slugging a barrel? I should be getting a new (to me) Marlin 30-30 tomorrow and would like to find the size of bullet I should cast for it. However, I am no gunsmith and don't want to mess it up.

[s mac]

It's a stickey on this page, FYI How I do a pound cast.

[glockky]

Thats a good thread thanks. Looks like im gonna hit McMaster Carr I can get 3' 1/4" 3' 5/16 for $9.19 before shipping

[ShooterAZ]

Just go to your local Ace or True Value, much less than that. I use a 1/4" steel rod, and use the tape every 6" as others have mentioned. Make sure you have an inch or so of tape around the rod at the muzzle.

[fouronesix]

I simply repurposed a cleaning rod. It's a long, one piece, polished, stainless, 1/4" rod that had the handle bushing go bad. I removed the handle and taped about every 8". Have used it for all manner of slugging and "pounding" for years. No worries about joint edges, kinks, bends, flex, distortion or riveting. It will outlast me.

[wmitty]

I got 3/16" and 1/4" dia. brass rods at the local welding supply. I noticed today the 1/4" is bent and touching the inside of the barrel I was slugging. Never used a hammer except to tap a slug out of a throat; simply used the mass of the rod (36" length) to pound the slug into submission.

[Gtek]

Mr. Goodsteel's advise is gold. BFH=2 lb.ish Large hammer, little more than a drop thump, follow through. Nothing hard, no big swings, thump, thump, thump. Also a gas check epoxied on driver end helps me get good smoosh. 2" wide gray tape up to bore size on 1/4" rod (drill rod is really cool if you can source) every 4"-6" and away you go.

[MBTcustom]

drill rod is really cool if you can source

0-1 tool steel is drill rod. $3.70 for a 30" piece from McMaster Carr, is cheap enough for anybody.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-rods/=ul2u67
It's precision, it's tough, it's straight, and it's perfect for the job.
I go up to 5/16 rod for 35 caliber, and 3/8" for 45 and over.

[geargnasher]

Spiral the tape candy-cane style if you use a brass rod.

Gear

[williamwaco]

0-1 tool steel is drill rod. $3.70 for a 30" piece from McMaster Carr, is cheap enough for anybody.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-rods/=ul2u67
It's precision, it's tough, it's straight, and it's perfect for the job.
I go up to 5/16 rod for 35 caliber, and 3/8" for 45 and over.

Steel, That link will not work for me. I would like to order some. Can you check the link please?

Never mind. It finally came up.

[bigarm]

Steel, That link will not work for me. I would like to order some. Can you check the link please?

Never mind. It finally came up.

Do you know how much shipping is? It doesn't show. I would have to complete my order to find out. Not sure I want to risk that.

[MBTcustom]

Do you know how much shipping is? It doesn't show. I would have to complete my order to find out. Not sure I want to risk that.

I'm thinking its about $8. I do business with MC all the time, and I never felt screwed over by their shipping dept. They are after all, not affiliated with the gun industry, so they have to be competitive. LOL!

[bigarm]

Thanks. I ordered one.

[alamogunr]

I got mine from MSC.

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/Raw-Materials/Metals/Steel/Drill-Rod?navid=12102055

[MBTcustom]

Drill ye terriers drill.......