Primers seating loosely... Trash the brass?

[Bulltipper]

I have some twice fired FC brass I was giing to load some plinkers (.308) and some of the primer holes don't hold the primers tightly. (just a feel in the hand primer tool, they go in too easy...) I am inclined to throw the brass away, anyone have any comments on this, seen it before, caused by... Thanks,
Bulltipper

[Big Boomer]

There is some kind of serious leverage even with hand priming tools. I use the old old old Lee brand and have so for nearly 40 years. You can test how strongly the case is holding the primer by simply taking a manual de-priming device from your sizer die and see how easily you can push the primer out with your fingers. That may help you determine whether to pitch the brass or go ahead and use it. Big Boomer

[SOFMatchstaff]

I have run into a lot of Federal cases that have soft alloy, three loadings is about it unless you can find a different brand primer that will hold. I had a batch of Rem 9 1/2s that were loose in the Feds and Rem 338 rums, went to a Win LR and they seated fine for one more loading. If you are brass poor, it might be worth it, otherwise not so much. Fed 223s I dont even try for two loads, once thru the Shrike and in the scrap they go. We had a 100k pulled from service because the primers were falling out and locking up the ARs. Not good in the field! Trust level in the Federal brass is low in my loading room...

[Bulltipper]

Exactly what I did, thanks Big Boomer.

[MaryB]

Federal supposedly fixed the soft brass problem and newer brass is fine, I have 5 reloads on some 5.56 federal American Eagle brass with no issues. Might get one more out of them, necks split on 2 out of 200 last time so getting close.

[Bulltipper]

Thanks guys, that is what I thought and very glad to have confirmation.

[freebullet]

No federal brass for me. I used to loose primers from new fed factory loads in 270. Most fed brass gets downloaded or traded off.

[1johnlb]

There's a technique used to shrink primer pockets on berdan case conversions that works on lose boxer pockets that I use. It's quick and easy, using a large ball bearing and a lite tap with a hammer. Search berdan conversion to boxer should bring it up. I've not had any problems with the cases that I've done.

[HeavyMetal]

You might also try switching brands of primers, some are a little "fatter" than others, CCI in particular.

Leverage plays a big part in seating primers and feel is huge when setting up a load, I to will suggest trying to push a few out by hand and set aside any that seem easy to de prime in this manner.

[sdcitizen]

I do the same thing that 1johnlb does, except I made a swaging punch out of a grade 8 bolt to shrink the pockets. The end of the punch is .205 dia and .090 long and the shoulder above that is .220 dia. Put the case upside down on a bolt that fits through the case mouth clamped in a vise, and one whack with a hammer on the swage punch, then run over the RCBS primer pocket swager to get the correct profile, can be done a couple times at least. I haven't thrown any brass out for some time now.

[Bulltipper]

Might give the ball bearing a try, now I have to dig those cases out of the trash...

[runfiverun]

I think I'd rather spend another hour at work.

[GSM]

Hmmmmm.

Throw away a 10 cent piece of brass or spin the roulette wheel and possibly get an eye or face full of hot gas and brass pieces?

Anyone mention what happens to depth perception when you lose one eye? Put an eye patch on or, if you wear glasses, cover one lens with masking tape for a few hours.

Go ahead and dig the brass out of the trash - it will be worth it.

[Cmm_3940]

Federal supposedly fixed the soft brass problem and newer brass is fine, I have 5 reloads on some 5.56 federal American Eagle brass with no issues. Might get one more out of them, necks split on 2 out of 200 last time so getting close.

Mary,

Does the newer Federal 5.56 brass have the same identical FC headstamp as the soft stuff? Any way to tell the two apart?

[1johnlb]

I have some 06 converted to 8x57 and have had absolutely no problems. I use l.pistol primers and the Harris 200 yd load. After a few times FL sizing they harden anyway. As long as you have a good chamber, properly head spaced, I wouldn't hesitate to use them.

[Lloyd Smale]

I agree. Brass is cheap. When the pockets get opened up because of pressure ive found that case head seperation isnt far behind. I toss it
Hmmmmm.

Throw away a 10 cent piece of brass or spin the roulette wheel and possibly get an eye or face full of hot gas and brass pieces?

Anyone mention what happens to depth perception when you lose one eye? Put an eye patch on or, if you wear glasses, cover one lens with masking tape for a few hours.

Go ahead and dig the brass out of the trash - it will be worth it.

[Green Monster]

Save it and make some wind chimes or key chains for people you know. X-mas is coming....

[Bulltipper]

Can I mail them to you GSM? I will pick up the tab.

[MaryB]

I checked the cheap American Eagle ammo I buy for range fun where I am not going for accuracy and it has the smaller FC head stamp on it.

Good pic from AR-15.com "Federal Brass with LARGE headstamp on left, small headstamp on right.
the brass on the left (Large FC headstamp) has a web thickness of less than .170 while the brass on the right (small headstamp) is .186 on average. .186 is typical for LC Brass, Win, and other brass considered to be top tier brass. The large headstamped brass will have a loose primer pocket after one or two firings and there are many reports of case head seperation. Personally I load the large headstamped brass once for use in my bolt gun then scrap it.
ETA: I also have FC Brass which has a date code rather than the "223 REM" that has the small text headstamp. Its the good stuff also. Dryflash has a method describing how and why to measure web thickness up in the tacked threads. Every reloader should learn to make a thickness measurement."

http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af6/UpstateEd/IMG_4359.jpg

Mary,

Does the newer Federal 5.56 brass have the same identical FC headstamp as the soft stuff? Any way to tell the two apart?

[Alstep]

That 10 cent piece of brass is the gasket that keeps 50,000 PSI from blowing back into your face, and turning your gun into shrapnel ! When in doubt, scrap it.

[gew98]

I knew of a copper whom did the reloading for his PD for practicing. He was taking the loaded 556 rounds and dripping crazy glue on th eprimers to keep them in place on the worn out brass. I told him he was a nutjob and asking to get one of his buddies hurt , let alone wreck a rifle. The second I feel a primer go 'swoosh' with no resistance I set it aside and later retrieve primer and it is SCRAPPED , No exceptions.

[snuffy]

IF I pick up federal brass of any caliber at the range, it goes straight to the recycle pail when I'm sorting it for loading. Scrap brass prices what they are, it's worth the effort to pick it up.

[blackthorn]

If I get a "soft" seating primer I hold the case on an angle, rap the edge sharply two or three times on the bench and if the primer shows any sign of backing out I remove it, then crush and scrap the brass. If the primer does not move I mark the case with a sharpie, complete the load and use that case one more time. It is crushed and scrapped after firing.

[Char-Gar]

When the primer pockets get loose the brass is trashed. I crush it so somebody else won't use it. There are no exceptions to this rule for me.

[1johnlb]

I wonder, if anybody, recognized the thread drift?

[Bulltipper]

Right on the thread drift... In the scrap bucket they are. Thanks to those who gave their honest opinions and weren't snarky...