LEE Dippers: Old (Black or Red) powder dippers vs New (Yellow) powder dippers

[nitro-express]

"I use both the old red dippers and the new yellow dippers. Using the red ones often allows you to get powder weights in between the yellow dippers. If you use the yellow dippers, try to get a old red set to use with the yellow set"

That is a quote from an archived thread. I was looking for a chart for the old dippers, to compare the volume to the new Yellow CC dippers.

The history is well documented, LEE went out of business, and he started over. His old cubic inch dippers, made of black or red plastic were replaced with cubic centimeter ones.

I couldn't find a chart, and to make the conversions easier I used an Excel speadsheet to come up with a comparison chart. After all it's just maths, convert cu to cc (and it helps if you keep the decimals right).

Here is a chart that shows the old dippers cu marking and their equivalent cc.

120974

The formula is ((old dipper #)/0.061024/1000)

And if you compare the cc, indeed you discover that the volume of the old dippers falls between the volumes of the new ones.

I used the VMD chart in the back to make a list for the powders I use.

And the formula is ((cc of dipper)/(VMD of the powder)). The VMD is from the LEE "Modern Reloading" manual, pages 704 and 705.

IF ​you use a consistent method for your dipping and striking off or shaking off the excess, they can be surprisingly consistent, and It only takes a couple of seconds to check the weight with a digital scale. Digital scales are pretty cheap, as are a set of dippers. There are tons of old dipper sets out there, I picked up 2 at a gunshow the other day, 5 $ for one that was incomplete and 7$ for a complete set that was almost unused.

I use them to update old LEE and MRC loaders, and those are cheap at gunshows also. Most of the parts are available from LEE, Sizer body is not, and reasonably priced. Some of the kits I just use for parts. After I get them cleaned up, I sell them, so I can buy more. It's a hobby.

120983

[EDG]

When you run into a cheap used set of dippers you can "adjust" them with a file to the top or a spacer in the bottom. With a few extras you can throw almost any possible load.

[nitro-express]

Don't forget to file off the numbers while you're at it. Or drill a hole in the bottom and put a screw in, instant fine adjustment. Replacements cost a dollar.

Oh my, I just realized I spent way too much time on something worth so little. On the other hand, if the SHTF, a stack of LEE loaders in common calibers, with some powder, molds, and a book, would make you king. Barter reloading for food and ????

[Mk42gunner]

I have at least one set (15) of the yellow Lee dippers, with the slide chart, I also have some of the Red ones. My problem with them is they hardly ever throw the exact charge that I want.

A few years ago I thought about looking for a whole set of the red ones (the black in my experience were meant to be shot dippers), but they are getting hard to find; and some of the sellers want an exorbitant price for them if you can find them.

Since I read a lot of Dean Grennell when I was growing up; I had a better, or at least cheaper, idea. I make my own from various brass cases. Solder on a piece of stiff wire or a nail for a handle and trim the case to throw whatever charge you want.

Robert

[William Yanda]

I wanted some classy dippers so I bought some cheap old silver plated silverware to make the handle. Now to find a round toit to get the soldering done.

[mikes farm]

I prefer using the dippers vs my thrower.
I put a small piece of foam in them to tweak the volume.
I usually dip them a little light and trickle a couple granules to proper weight.

[bedbugbilly]

Since this is a thread on dippers .. . I'm just curious.

I use dippers for a number of loads - my BP 38s but also for other various cartridges with primarily Bulls Eye, Red Dot and Unique. I use a combination of dippers made from various cartridge casings and also the smaller Lee yellow dippers.

My curiosity is how do many of you do your dipping? In other words - consistency is the key, we all know that. But, when batch loading, are you weighing each charge that you dip? Or, are you just using "experience"? Most of my 48 loads are on the leaner side - nowhere near Max. As an example, I load 38 Colt Short with 2.2 gr of Red Dot. If I'm a tenth of a grain under or over, they still work just fine. I "practice" dipping and checking weights just to keep consistent and I'm usually "right on". So in a case of what I'm doing where the target load is 2.2 but 2.1 or 2.3 grains will work just fine . . . what would most of you do? Weigh each charge or just check every 5 or 10 as you load? Of course safety is the primary importance but I'm curious of what the "old timers" who have done this for ages do )and I'm an old fart).

Normally I load on a Lee Turret and use a Lee Perfect Measure attached to the powder thru die - it throws very consistent charges for me but I still check every 10th round with the scales. I like using the dippers though - especially in conjunction with the 310 tool when I'm loading 38s and also when I'm loading RD in my 8 X 57 but those are "cat sneeze" loads and even then, I check each one and adjust as necessary to hit the exact grain weight..

[Mk42gunner]

bbb,

I usually weigh a few dippers at the start of a loading session, for a couple of reasons: 1 to get back in practice since I don't use them everyday; and 2 to verify the dipper is throwing what it is supposed to.

I will also measure a few during the session, usually at one end of the loading block. this way I know the charges are good and if I have a problem I don't have to dump the whole block of cases.

Robert

[bedbugbilly]

Robert - thanks! For my "dipper sessions" when I'm not weighing each dipper full, that's pretty much how I have been doing it. If I know I'm going to be "dipping", I'll practice for a few minutes to make sure I'm consistent and then start in. I don't load anywhere near "max" so I know I'm safe as far as being off + or - a tenth of a grain. I also use loading blocks and have several when I do it - I place my empty casings in one - take from that to a block that holds a single cartridge - drop the charge with a funnel and then it goes to a separate loading block. I make sure I'm not distracted in any way - what can I say? I'm old and need all the help I can get! LOL Thanks for your reply - it's nice to hear how others do it as a person can always learn something new!

[jmort]

I hate using a scale. Dippers are the safest way to charge. No moving parts and static volume. Fast and efficient. The key is getting a standardized, repeatable, predictable dip or scoop. Richard Lee and Dean Grennell both used the same dipping method, push the dipper bottom first, let the powder fall in, and strike it off with a straight-edge/card. I like to scoop as the standard dippers tend to throw light charges. I scoop and shake off excess powder to level top. That gets me around +/- .1 grain. Close enough for me, but not for benchrest shooters.

[gunwonk]

I couldn't find a chart, and to make the conversions easier I used an Excel speadsheet to come up with a comparison chart. After all it's just maths, convert cu to cc (and it helps if you keep the decimals right).

Here is a chart that shows the old dippers cu marking and their equivalent cc.

120974

The formula is ((old dipper #)/0.061024/1000)

And if you compare the cc, indeed you discover that the volume of the old dippers falls between the volumes of the new ones.

Thank you, thank you! I've got both sets, and this information was the missing link.

FWIW, here's a chart of both sets, interleaved.
124388

[Texantothecore]

I hate using a scale. Dippers are the safest way to charge. No moving parts and static volume. Fast and efficient. The key is getting a standardized, repeatable, predictable dip or scoop. Richard Lee and Dean Grennell both used the same dipping method, push the dipper bottom first, let the powder fall in, and strike it off with a straight-edge/card. I like to scoop as the standard dippers tend to throw light charges. I scoop and shake off excess powder to level top. That gets me around +/- .1 grain. Close enough for me, but not for benchrest shooters.


That is the technique that I use. I also make sure that the powder which is falling into the dipper is always the same heigth above the dipper rim. Works very well.

[perotter]

Thanks for posting the chart. It will prove to be useful to me.

[Blacksmith]

Here is a list of cartridge cases and their capacity in grains of water, H2O. This should get you close but actual capacity in powder will depend on the density of the powder. Pick a case a little oversize then weigh test charges and file the case down until you get to the charge weight you want. be sure you mark them plainly with both charge weight and powder type so you don't make a mistake and pick up the wrong measure.

http://kwk.us/cases.html

Cartridge Case Capacities

.14 Hornet 12
.17 Hornet 14
.17 Rem 27
.204 Ruger 33
.22 Hornet 14
.22 Hornet Impr 16
.218 Bee 18
.22 Rem Jet 18
.221 Rem 21
.222 Rem 27
.223 Rem 31
.222 Rem Mag 32
5.6x50R 34
.219 Zipper 34
.225 Win 41
.22-250 Rem 43
.220 Swift 48
.223 WSSM 53
.22-06 65
.22-15 Stevens 17
.22 Sav 35
6x47 33
6x52R Bret. 36
6 BR 39
6x70R 39
.243 Win 54
.243 WSSM 54
6 Rem 55
.240 Wea Mag 65
6 USN 51
6x62R 67
.240 Fl. N.E. 58
.25-20 WCF 19
.256 Win 22
.25-21 Stevens 25
.25-25 Stevens 29
.25-36 Marlin 37
.25-35 WCF 37
.25 Rem 42
.250 Sav 46
.257 Roberts 56
.25-06 Rem 66
.257 Wea Mag 84
6.5x70R 39
6.5 Jap. 48
6.5x52 Carcano 49
6.5x53R 49
6.5x54 M-S(.256) 50
.260 Rem 53
6.5x55 57
6.5x57(R) 58
6.5 Rem Mag 68
.264 Win Mag 82
.270 REN 16
.270 Win 68
.270 Wea 83
.28-30 Stevens 37
7-30 Waters 45
7x72R 54
7-08 Rem 56
7x57(R) Mauser 59
.284 Win 66
.280 Rem 67
7x65R 68
7 WSM 81
7 Rem Mag 84
.30 Carbine 21
.300 Whisper 24
.30-357 AeT 25
.30 Rem AR 44
.30-30 45
.30 Rem 46
.303 Sav 48
.300 Sav 52
.307 Win 54
7.62 NATO 54
.308 Win 56
.30 Fl.NE Purdey 58
.30-40 U.S. 58
.30-06 U.S. 69
.300 H&H 86
.30 Newton 88
.300 Win Mag 89
.30 Fl. H&H 90
.300 Wea Mag 99
.30-378 130
7.62x54R 64
.303 Brit 57
.375/303 W-R 62
.32-20 WCF 22
7.65 Mauser 58
8x72R 59
.32-40 Ballard 41
8x50R Lebel 66
8x57(R) Mauser 62
8-06 70
8 Rem Mag 98
.318 W-R 69
.333 Jeffery 86
.33 WCF 63
.338-06 70
.338 Win Mag 86
.340 Wea Mag 98
.338-378 132
.348 Win 75
9x57(R) Mauser 62
.357 Mag 27
.357 Max 34
.357/44 B&D 35
.400/350 Rigby 78
.350 ME Guide 2 49
.35 Rem 51
.356 Win 57
.358 Win 57
.35 WCF 69
.35 Whelen 71
.35 Greevy 72
.350 Rem Mag 73
.358 Norma Mag 88
.358 STA 105
9.3x57 Mauser 64
9.3x54R Finn. 65
9.3x72R 67
9.3x62 77
9.3x74R 82
.360 No.2 NE 111
.375 Win 49
.38-56 Win 62
.375 2½ N.E. 67
.375-06 73
.375 H&H 95
.375 Fl. Mag 97
.375 Ruger 100
.369 N.E. 102
.378 Wea Mag 136
.38-55 Ballard 52
.38-72 Win 74
.38-40 WCF 39
.400 Whelen 75
.405 Win 78
.400 Jeffery 117
.450/400 NE 3¼ 123
.416 Taylor 92
.416 Rem Mag 107
.416 Rigby 130
.416 Wea Mag 134
.423 OKH 77
.404 Jeffery 113
.44-40 WCF 40
.44 Spl 34
.44 Rem Mag 39
.444 Marlin 69
.45 Colt 42
.454 Casull 47
.45-70 U.S. 79
.450 Marlin 74
.450 Alaskan 88
.45-90 2.4" 90
.458 Win Mag 94
.458 Lott 108
.450 3¼ N.E. 129
.460 Wea Mag 140
.465 N.E. 144
.470 N.E. 146
.475 3¼ N.E. 137
.50-110 109
.50 BMG 293

[Chev. William]

Since this is a thread on dippers .. . I'm just curious.

I use dippers for a number of loads - my BP 38s but also for other various cartridges with primarily Bulls Eye, Red Dot and Unique. I use a combination of dippers made from various cartridge casings and also the smaller Lee yellow dippers.

My curiosity is how do many of you do your dipping? In other words - consistency is the key, we all know that. But, when batch loading, are you weighing each charge that you dip? Or, are you just using "experience"? Most of my 48 loads are on the leaner side - nowhere near Max. As an example, I load 38 Colt Short with 2.2 gr of Red Dot. If I'm a tenth of a grain under or over, they still work just fine. I "practice" dipping and checking weights just to keep consistent and I'm usually "right on". So in a case of what I'm doing where the target load is 2.2 but 2.1 or 2.3 grains will work just fine . . . what would most of you do? Weigh each charge or just check every 5 or 10 as you load? Of course safety is the primary importance but I'm curious of what the "old timers" who have done this for ages do )and I'm an old fart).

Normally I load on a Lee Turret and use a Lee Perfect Measure attached to the powder thru die - it throws very consistent charges for me but I still check every 10th round with the scales. I like using the dippers though - especially in conjunction with the 310 tool when I'm loading 38s and also when I'm loading RD in my 8 X 57 but those are "cat sneeze" loads and even then, I check each one and adjust as necessary to hit the exact grain weight..

I currently load .25ACP and similar size cartridges so my process is to use a dipper to 'trickle' powder into a Ballance beam pan for EVERY Charge, then place the measured charge in a case and seat a bullet on it. One cartridge at a time to assure no overloads or Squibs. A Tenth of a Grain is too much variance for these small capacity cases with most powders for consistent Accuracy.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Pavogrande]

My "dippers" are all pre-Lee made from various cartridge cases trimmed to specific length--

[bruce drake]

the nice thing about the dippers is their multi use capability. I dip and level off with a card on my plinker loads. I scoop and pour onto my digital scale pan and then trickle the last few grains when I want specific load weights.

To each their own. I like to use them and they do a good job.

[gwpercle]

When you run into a cheap used set of dippers you can "adjust" them with a file to the top or a spacer in the bottom. With a few extras you can throw almost any possible load.
A small disk(s) of cardboard, pressed firmly into the bottom , can get an exact weight with a certain powder. I mark my "adjusted" dippers and record what weight each will dip with all the powders I use.
I also do this with the standard marked dippers and the dippers I make with fired cases and wire handles. Dippers can be quite accurate.
With all these new powders popping up my notebook is getting full.
Gary

[psweigle]

I love my dippers. I use them for many of my hand loaders. I have all 3 of the sets. The red and black are the same. I find I can make a tailored charge pretty consistently. Great for taking on the road. The

[Geezer in NH]

Never dipped a smokeless powder load, never will. To easy to use a measure and a scale.

[quilbilly]

I make new dippers from brass cartridge cases and a pipe cutter to fill in the holes between the multiple colors of dippers. For handles, I twist heavy (.035) stainless wire around the cases. They work great and I confirm exact powder charge before each session on the scale.

[Landy88]

I make new dippers from brass cartridge cases and a pipe cutter to fill in the holes between the multiple colors of dippers. For handles, I twist heavy (.035) stainless wire around the cases. They work great and I confirm exact powder charge before each session on the scale.

^^This^^
I, especially, like reclaiming cases who's necks finally split; since it lets them still work for me, and they've even got the right head stamp for what I'm loading.

Although, I do have a number of Lee's, too. Even though I only own one Lee die, a Speed Die, I bought their dippers and data sheets for their equivalents of each my RCBS and Hornady die sets and tucked them in my die boxes. This seemed the most compact way to have some data and a measure always along when I through a die set in my portable kit.

[country gent]

I have several dippers for different rounds that for one reason or another I don't want or need to set up a powder measure. I do weigh every charge thrown with the dipper though. I also make my own from old cases or other available materials. I have dippers made for powder, Shot, powdered fillers ( grex, corn meal,). Dippers are a handy tool on any bench. I also have a set of dippers for measuring the correct rartio of bisonite bedding compound since its a 10-1 mix and hard to measure otherwise.

[barrabruce]

I tend to use old cases and fill with lead then drill out to the weight I need.
Empty cases at the range can be a god sent when you left your dippers at home when you have made a few out of cases and know what they weight at.
Not for full noise loads though.
Did that the other week and a 22lr case of bullseye and a 22mag case of unique kept me shooting for the day but not what I intended to do at the time.
:)

[Chev. William]

Electronic scales seem to all be Listed As .1 Grain Resolution +/- several Counts and Temperature Variations.
I have found Electronic Scales Too Inaccurate for Charges around 1.00 Grains to 3.00 Grains, and Use a RCBS (OHAS) "Balance Beam" type to measure My Charges.

But then, i am Loading .25ACP cases with a Gross Water capacity of 6.7 Grains full to the rim. 3.1 grains of BE-86 under a 50 Grain FMJ RN Jacketed Bullet is a 100% fill Load in the .25ACP cartridge!

Chev. William

[Chev. William]

Trivia Post:
My Yellow Lee .3cc Dipper will throw a 3.0 grain charge of BE-86 repeatedly.

Chev. William

[richhodg66]

When I first started loading for a handgun, I didn't have a suitable powder measure and bought one of the Lee sets. Best six bucks I ever spent. Seems like I find all kind of uses for it. Actually pulled it out to load a few the other day and was too lazy to adjust a powder measure. 25 years or so and that dipper set is still going strong.

[mattw]

Sorry to wake an old thread back up... I have been loading since the late 80's and have never used a dipper! I am starting down the road of 32acp and find that I actually plan on dipping! My Uniflow with a small drum is not accurate enough and I hate to set up and trickle charge each one, very slow process. So, I am planning on using the included Lee dipper and maybe making an tuning a couple more from 22LR or 25acp cases. Will still weigh each charge on the Ohaus beam, my Dillon electronic has to much variation for my comfort in that tiny case. I really should get a full set of dippers, might be very handy with short runs of test loads!

[alamogunr]

Check S&S here. You might get lucky and find both old and new Lee dippers for less than retail for just the new . Making your own is a good alternative.

[Green Frog]

With my 32 S&W (not Long) loading project (with old S&W tools) coming along, I'm looking at very tiny dippers to measure charges like 1.3 gr of Bullseye, etc. so I'm looking at the very smallest of the Lee dippers. I fear I'll be forced to make my own out of 22 rf cases... I may have to go to a 22 s case to get small enough though... it looks like even a 22 lr case holds too much. While I'm at it, I'll probably make dippers for 32 S&W Long as well as that brass is so much more available.

Froggie

[Traffer]

Since I reload 22lr, there were not any commercial dippers available for that small amt of powder. So I made my own. Now I wonder why anyone would purchase a powder dipper. They are so easy to make and tailor to the type of powder that you use. Just use the scale to tweak the weight of powder. Now that has turned out to be so easy and accurate, I will do it for all calibers. Absolutely no need to purchase something so simple to make.

[Landy88]

That's a good point on how easy dippers are to make.

The best argument for the Lee's may be the capacity "slide-rule" and the charge tables, rather than the dippers themselves.

I make some, but I've also bought a set; and I've bought individual dippers and charge tables from Lee's parts section for their dies to add to the boxes of most of my other dies' boxes. One or more dippers and a charge table in the box with the dies ensures that there's basic data and measurement ability always very handy.

[Firebricker]

Thanks for posting that. I have an old set of red ones. That I picked up somewhere and never even looked at them. Just thought they were the same. FB

[archangel2003]

Check S&S here. You might get lucky and find both old and new Lee dippers for less than retail for just the new . Making your own is a good alternative.

Where is the S&S, I can't find it.

[JBinMN]

Where is the S&S, I can't find it.

You have to have 30 posts before you can see it, and/or post in it, I think. That is maybe why you have not seen it yet, since your post count is at 24 right now. Make some more worthwhile posts here, & then you should be able to see it & go in there.

I would post the link to the forum & the rules forum link below, but I am not sure that the forum software will allow you to even enter without the required posts. I did post what you will see if you do get to 30 posts from the main forum page listings. S&S is about 2/3rds or 3/4 down the main forum page...

You are just going to have to participate a bit more, I reckon.
;)

G'Luck!
:)

Swappin & Sellin(23 Viewing)
Gun / Casting / Shooting / Hunting Related Items Only. 30 Days Active Membership & 30 Post requirement to sell. 5 threads per month limit, 10 items per thread limit. No Estate Sales. No spamming. No degrading posts in sales threads. No ebay links. First post of threads MUST be updated as items are sold. Threads will be closed if no activity for 30 days. See sticky in the S&S area for rules details & descriptions.

Moderators:No_1
Sub-Forums: S&S RULES, Straight Shooters & Deadbeats, The Boolit Exchange, Completed Deals

[archangel2003]

I did end up finding the swappin and sellin section, just a little slow these days, old age and all.


You have to have 30 posts before you can see it, and/or post in it, I think. That is maybe why you have not seen it yet, since your post count is at 24 right now. Make some more worthwhile posts here, & then you should be able to see it & go in there.

I would post the link to the forum & the rules forum link below, but I am not sure that the forum software will allow you to even enter without the required posts. I did post what you will see if you do get to 30 posts from the main forum page listings. S&S is about 2/3rds or 3/4 down the main forum page...

You are just going to have to participate a bit more, I reckon.
;)

G'Luck!
:)

Swappin & Sellin(23 Viewing)
Gun / Casting / Shooting / Hunting Related Items Only. 30 Days Active Membership & 30 Post requirement to sell. 5 threads per month limit, 10 items per thread limit. No Estate Sales. No spamming. No degrading posts in sales threads. No ebay links. First post of threads MUST be updated as items are sold. Threads will be closed if no activity for 30 days. See sticky in the S&S area for rules details & descriptions.

Moderators:No_1
Sub-Forums: S&S RULES, Straight Shooters & Deadbeats, The Boolit Exchange, Completed Deals

[JBinMN]

I did end up finding the swappin and sellin section, just a little slow these days, old age and all.

:)

:drinks:

[RCL]

Been using the Lee dippers for years for several calibers.
The slide rule is great.
A lot of times I just don't want to set up my powder measure.

[archangel2003]

The thing is that I have 2 electronic scales, one for the heavier things and won't go to grains, and the other for grains of powder, the only thing is, the smaller one goes to hundredths of a grain and the numbers fluctuate every time the heat, or A/C cycles on as the air movement screws with it.
SO, I take it that + or - 1/2 a grain is nothing for reloading?
When the smaller scale fluctuates, it can go as much as .25 grain or so, and I can't seem to get my smaller yellow Lee measure cups to draw any kind of powder within 2 grains of what it's supposed to pull, or even 2 grains between one pull and another no matter how I scoop it out of the can!
The larger ones are even worse.
I tried like they said, pushing it down and letting the powder fall in, then I tried scooping up and out, sliding sideways back and forth, nothing is consistent!

[JBinMN]

The thing is that I have 2 electronic scales, one for the heavier things and won't go to grains, and the other for grains of powder, the only thing is, the smaller one goes to hundredths of a grain and the numbers fluctuate every time the heat, or A/C cycles on as the air movement screws with it.
SO, I take it that + or - 1/2 a grain is nothing for reloading?
When the smaller scale fluctuates, it can go as much as .25 grain or so, and I can't seem to get my smaller yellow Lee measure cups to draw any kind of powder within 2 grains of what it's supposed to pull, or even 2 grains between one pull and another no matter how I scoop it out of the can!
The larger ones are even worse.
I tried like they said, pushing it down and letting the powder fall in, then I tried scooping up and out, sliding sideways back and forth, nothing is consistent!

Other than suggesting you get a beam scale, I would suggest you try something that might help....

I do not know what size the scale "pad" is on your electronic scales, but try putting jacketed bullet that you know is of a certain weight( Like a 158gr./38sp., or a 230gr./45ACP, etc. ) on the scales "pad", off to the side & then place the little pan on there as well, then "Tare" the two together.

Then try weighing powder in the pan from the scoops & see if it stops the scale from wavering & being inconsistent.

It may be that the scale just does not have the amount of weight on it to be accurate & steady, but adding a bit more weight may make it get more consistent for you.

Just a suggestion, but it may help & is easy enough to try anyway.

I use a beam scale to check my loads ( + I have a check weight set, but bullets work too) , whether it be from one of the measures or from the dippers. The only time I did not use the beams is when I am not at the bench, like at the range or somewhere else. Then I just use the dipper & stay below the amount required for safety, or I use my litte FA elct. scale I got for weighing boolits & powder a while back. I just did not trust it if I was getting close to MAX suggested loads, so I just went to using the beam most of the time.

Anyway, I guess I rambled a bit. Gonna go hit the rack.
;)

G'Luck! and if the suggestion works for ya, please share that it did! I'd bet no one would mind, as it might help someone else too later on if they read here.
:)

[archangel2003]

That sounds like a really good idea.
Less fluctuation from light air movement.
I have a beam scale that came with my classic turret press kit but it's difficult for me to use as it seems kind of sticky when it goes up or down like it's rubbing on one side or the other.

I'm getting to the point where I need one of those large 6 foot by 3 foot flat top, roll around tool boxes for all the reloading equipment, parts kits and building tools I have accumulated over the years.


Other than suggesting you get a beam scale, I would suggest you try something that might help....

I do not know what size the scale "pad" is on your electronic scales, but try putting jacketed bullet that you know is of a certain weight( Like a 158gr./38sp., or a 230gr./45ACP, etc. ) on the scales "pad", off to the side & then place the little pan on there as well, then "Tare" the two together.

Then try weighing powder in the pan from the scoops & see if it stops the scale from wavering & being inconsistent.

It may be that the scale just does not have the amount of weight on it to be accurate & steady, but adding a bit more weight may make it get more consistent for you.

Just a suggestion, but it may help & is easy enough to try anyway.

I use a beam scale to check my loads ( + I have a check weight set, but bullets work too) , whether it be from one of the measures or from the dippers. The only time I did not use the beams is when I am not at the bench, like at the range or somewhere else. Then I just use the dipper & stay below the amount required for safety, or I use my litte FA elct. scale I got for weighing boolits & powder a while back. I just did not trust it if I was getting close to MAX suggested loads, so I just went to using the beam most of the time.

Anyway, I guess I rambled a bit. Gonna go hit the rack.
;)

G'Luck! and if the suggestion works for ya, please share that it did! I'd bet no one would mind, as it might help someone else too later on if they read here.
:)

[barrabruce]

I use a container and found for me that pushing the dipper into the powder and letting it fill then lifting works for me.No wooshing or running or double dipping.
I have a wire that goes across the top of my container and I scrape once pulling it towards me then out.

I get more variation from my luby/dirty fingers or other contaminates making the powder stick to the outside of the scoop.
I’m a strong believer in a well maintained beam scale.
I don’t do electric scales and don’t trust them at all.

Hell I only reloaded for 37 years with my first set of scales.

My replacement was made before my old ones but I can read them better.

A dipper afew tenths light and a good trickler is quick and easy for dead nuts on for bigger logs and sticks that don’t measure that well in throwers anyway.

You can spend a lot of money and not be anywhere near as good as a balance beam and few dippers and a simple trickler.