Need advice removing a Rem. 11-48 action spring plug

[Ramar]

Need advice removing a Rem. 11-48 action spring plug


The action spring plug is rusted and resisting my attempts to free it. The action spring tube nut was a real bear to get out. It took an impact tool and a 12" breaker bar. The action spring plug pin came right out but no movement on the action spring plug. It's soaking in penetrating oil from both ends now.


The spring and follower are moving when pressure is applied towards the rear but no movement on the plug. I believe I can drive the follower and spring towards the rear but that would result in a need for a new spring and probably a follower also.


I can always drill out the plug and hope I can find a replacement.


Any ideas?

Ramar

[Goatwhiskers]

Letting it soak for a while is advisable. I would put the retaining pin back in to keep parts from possibly flying out at the wrong. A heat gun is a good idea, warming things up often breaks a part loose. I also advise using a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, in my experience it penetrates better than all the other penetrants on the market. Driving the whole mess out really isn't such a bad idea as the spring probably should be replaced on such an old gun anyway.
Re: using a heat gun. I just broke down a Win X-1 that hasn't been touched since last season, the barrel was frozen. Took two hours using my penetrant, a heat gun, a heavy plastic mallet and a brass punch. GW

[Ramar]

Thanks GW.
All I use is the 50/50. It's the cheapest and the best. Instead of putting the pin back in I put a long boot sock on it in case it let go. I'll try some heat in a couple of days.

I guess I should check the availability of parts before I do much more.

The owner complained of full out and emptying the mag when he asked me to look at it. A whole bunch of rust and 1949 Rem oil or cosmo. on all internal parts.
Ramar

[Mk42gunner]

I have never had a Rem 11-48 apart; but in general, if you soak with penetrating oil, try some heat expansion to break the rust bond. If that doesn't work, you can try vibration.

I am NOT saying beat on it, just a bit of light tapping.

What you basically have now is a spring loaded plug that is stuck tight, right? I have freed up spring loaded ejectors by flooding the bolt face with oil, then using an electric engraving pencil with the bit turned so as to have a flat faced hammer, letting it rattle against the ejector. In short order the rust bond gives up and the ejector comes out.

You may need to get use bigger for your hammer and punch, but once you get the slightest movement, it will come out.

Robert

[Ramar]

Robert, thanks for the reply. "What you basically have now is a spring loaded plug that is stuck tight, right?"

You've got that right. I've got the time to wait on it; to let the oil take effect. If it were mine and the parts available I'd drill it and go for new parts. It's far from new.
Ramar

[Goatwhiskers]

Ramar, FWIW, almost all parts can still be found for the 11/48, in fact many are still used up to the present day. The one exception is the friction piece, it is apparently made of unobtainium. I suspect tho that once you get the crud cleaned out and properly lubed, being sure to lube the mag tube same as the Browning A5, you should be good to go. Good luck. GW

[Ramar]

Update: Plug came out with some heat and tapping after the soaking. I had no idea that the plug was made of wood. I had to hook the spring inside the tube to pull it out. All parts are cleaned now and tomorrow it goes back together.

GW, thanks for the parts info.
Ramar

[Mk42gunner]

Gee, with my luck the oil would have swollen the wood plug and it would be stuck there forever.

Robert