What are your temperature setting for PID's and different mold types?

[Yodogsandman]

I've never used a thermometer or a PID to be able to know my casting pot temperatures. Now, with a PID all set up, I don't know what temperature to set it at. What are your temperature settings for your PID's and different mold types? I figure there's three basic mold types and also basically double cavity and six cavity. What are your PID temperature settings for aluminum, steel and brass double cavity molds? What are your PID temperature settings for six cavity molds made of aluminum, steel and brass? What's worked for you?

I know we all use different alloys but they are all very similar.

[dragon813gt]

What is the ambient temp in your casting area? What is the temp of your mold. How big are the mold cavities? How fast/slow do you feel like casting? Is it a hollowpoint mold? Answer these for every single mold and you will have an answer. There is no one size fits all answer regardless of mold block material and number of cavities. Mold temp is more critical then lead temp. And ambient temp is going to effect the temp you need to keep the lead at. Hollowpoint molds usually require a higher lead temp to keep the pins hot. Most of my molds are four cavity so I can't answer anyway ;)

[Mike W1]

Every mould will naturally be different. I've been casting Lyman 452374 with 2 DC. One cast just fine with my particular alloy at 635° F. The other one not so well! Bumped it up to 645° and it was like magic the difference. I suggest you make temperature notes of what your moulds like for reference. Great little toy ain't it? I can't imagine having an eyeball that will keep you within that narrow a temperature swing or moving the pot knob to increase it 10°. And stem thermometers are pretty slow registering change compared to your PID.

[dikman]

Like Mike said, they're all different, but the mold temp is basically determined by your casting temp, it's trial and error to work out at what temp they work well. Plus just to confuse things they may reach a temp (overheat) when they stop casting properly and need to cool down.

As for alloy temp, again it's a matter of working out the best temp for your setup. As guide, pure lead will need a higher temp (I run mine at about 750*F) while alloys need a lower temp, maybe 650 as a starting point?

As an example, I've just started casting some 200 gn semi-wadcutters for my 44-40 using range scrap from a pistol range. It tests at about 12-15 BNH. I was running it at about 750*F, only because that's where the PID happened to be set. I was getting wrinkly boolits, so decided to drop the temp to just above 650*F and Bingo! instant perfect boolits, smooth and nicely formed. Bottom line is don't be afraid to experiment to find what will work for you.

As someone once said, it aint rocket science.

[jsizemore]

Set your PID for 100F above liquidius. Use you casting pace to control mold temp. Your casting pace should be where you cut your sprue instead of ripping it out. If your pace is correct you'll be able to cut the sprue with your gloved hand and not beat on it with a hammer or mallet. Steel/iron is slow to heat but cools slowly. Aluminum heats fast but loses heat quickly. Brass is closer to steel/iron then aluminum.

[dragonrider]

I keep it simple, my pid is set at 735 degrees, I never change it.

[wv109323]

I keep mine temp around 700 to 725 for most steel and brass molds. With 6 cavity aluminum I may bump it up to 740. My allow is range scrap and cow.

[retread]

I run 700F for most everything. May drop to 650 if I have a heavy lino mix.

[popper]

I just control pot temp. Used it to measure mould temp once, wasn't worth the time, Al moulds, 2, 4, 6x.