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View Full Version : Can you tumble and lube at the same time?



mallen
10-27-2014, 02:15 PM
Some people use lemi-shine to clean when they tumble, but i don't think that actually lubes the cases, is there anything that will lube the cases while tumbling?

wlc
10-27-2014, 02:22 PM
Not that "I" know of. Tumbling is for cleaning, lubing is for ease of sizing, don't think the two can be combined.... I have always used the LEE case lube. I use a glob of it placed in a zip lock bag with my brass, close up the bag then shake rattle and roll it around for a few minutes. Dump the brass out and let dry a few minutes then go on a sizing rampage. NEVER in over 20 years of reloading have I had a stuck case using that lube. When I finish sizing I dump that batch of brass in the sink and wash it off with really HOT water, let dry then finish my loading. Washing the lee lube of isn't necessary, but that's what I do.

bangerjim
10-27-2014, 02:35 PM
Cleaning is one thing. Case lubing is another.

I have always tumbled/vibrated with various media and additives.

I use lanolin Unique brand for case lube. One at a time. Just takes a second or two for each case. Just tap my finger in the tub lightly and a quick swipe around the case and all is well.

Mabe someone has a magic brew they use for clean/lube and will post it.
banger

Garyshome
10-27-2014, 03:41 PM
I use Lee case lube then tumble again after sizing. Sizing [rifle] is a pita!

mallen
10-27-2014, 04:27 PM
Well I'm thinking for my 9mm. I use wax on the outside of each case. Expanding the mouth is where it likes to get stuck

dondiego
10-27-2014, 04:28 PM
The Dillon spray lube is quick. Lay out several cases in 2 or 3 rows on a plastic bag, shake up the lube well, spray a light mist over the brass, roll brass back and forth, let the alcohol gas off, size brass.

trixter
10-27-2014, 06:51 PM
Cleaning is one thing. Case lubing is another.

I have always tumbled/vibrated with various media and additives.

I use lanolin Unique brand for case lube. One at a time. Just takes a second or two for each case. Just tap my finger in the tub lightly and a quick swipe around the case and all is well.

Mabe someone has a magic brew they use for clean/lube and will post it.
banger

Banger, I use the same stuff, but only for rifle cartridges (mostly 223's) I dab some on my fingertips and massage about 200-250 at a time. It works great and I don't get compression dents from excessive lube. Just a thought.

bangerjim
10-27-2014, 06:57 PM
I tried the Lee tube of creme and did not like it. So I got a little tub of the Unique lube and it works great! And smells good too!

Makes your hands soft!

banger

bangerjim
10-27-2014, 06:59 PM
Well I'm thinking for my 9mm. I use wax on the outside of each case. Expanding the mouth is where it likes to get stuck

I only use case lube on bottleneck rifle boolits. None of the others need it. I use Lee carbide dies for case sizing. Mabe you need a lube with the other dies that are not carbide for pistols? I have never had stuck pistol cases.

banger

Pinsnscrews
10-27-2014, 07:17 PM
My pistol brass goes through Redding's equivalent to the Bulge Buster for .40sw/10mm brass. Since I didn't get the carbide (not going to complain at all, it cost me $15 to the door) I sit down with a small tin of Redding Imperial Wax, which Redding was so nice to include. It helps that I also have a larger tin of Imperial that I had gotten for my rifle brass. I also have the small plastic container of ceramic beads coated in graphite for dunking the case mouth in before neck sizing.

To make an observation with regards to case lubing while tumbling; You will end up lubing the insides of the case at the same time as the outside...

runfiverun
10-27-2014, 07:33 PM
I just swipe a little lube on the expander when it starts to stick like that.
a little motor mica or graphite does the trick, I like the mica better it doesn't stain everything I look at.
I dab a tick on my finger then rub it between it and my thumb, then wipe the expander down.
it works pretty well with carbide dies too,, I dust a pinch on the cases and wipe them with my fingers.
it's just enough to make things go smoothly.

tking308
10-27-2014, 08:29 PM
I also have the small plastic container of ceramic beads coated in graphite for dunking the case mouth in before neck sizing.

I really like this idea. how small are the beads? I'm going to have to look into this, I hate q-tipping the inside of the necks.

KYCaster
10-27-2014, 09:16 PM
Some people use lemi-shine to clean when they tumble, but i don't think that actually lubes the cases, is there anything that will lube the cases while tumbling?


Hmmmmm............my first reaction was completely negative, the purpose of tumbling is to clean the cases to remove dirt and grit that can damage sizing dies and lubing in the same operation will leave some of that undesirable crud stuck to the cases with the lube......

.....but.....

......after the cleaning cycle, would tumbling in clean ceramic or SS media with lube added be an efficient way to lube the cases inside and out? Would that solve the problem of dry case necks and expander ball?

I don't have any ceramic or SS media, so would any of you guys who do be willing to try it and report.....or better yet, send me 10 lbs. of ceramic media so I can try it? [smilie=1:

BTW............

Hornady Unique.....................................$5.19 for 4 oz.
Dillon spray lube....................................$8.95 for 8 oz.
Lee............................................... .......$3.98 for 2 oz.
Imperial sizing die wax...........................$8.39 for 2 oz.
Greenlee wire pulling lube.......................$6.40 for 32 oz.

I've tried the Lee, Hornady, Dillon and a couple of home brews and the wire pulling lube beats them all! (Gardner-Bender brand works just as well)

Jerry

mallen
10-27-2014, 09:32 PM
I just swipe a little lube on the expander when it starts to stick like that.
a little motor mica or graphite does the trick, I like the mica better it doesn't stain everything I look at.
I dab a tick on my finger then rub it between it and my thumb, then wipe the expander down.
it works pretty well with carbide dies too,, I dust a pinch on the cases and wipe them with my fingers.
it's just enough to make things go smoothly.

This is what I have been doing.



......after the cleaning cycle, would tumbling in clean ceramic or SS media with lube added be an efficient way to lube the cases inside and out? Would that solve the problem of dry case necks and expander ball?

this is basicialy what i want to do. 2 steps would make more sense, but would get inside lubed. but what lube would work in this manner without contamination?

you can get SS media for 17 bucks

country gent
10-27-2014, 09:47 PM
I use the imperial sizing die wax and a bath towel. Lay towel out on a flat surface ( floor table chair) pour cases on to towel in middle, A finger or 2 of imperial lube in the cases. Grasp each ends corners of towel in each hand ( from a sling ) and raise and lower hands for a minute or so rotating cases in towel. A first it will take more but as the towel impregnates with lube less will be needed. Also less time agitating will be required. When cases are lubed roll towel into zip lock bag for storage. I do a 1000-1500 308 cases at a time like this. 9MM would probably be 3-4000 at a time. Cases get a very fine even coating of lube like this.

mallen
10-27-2014, 09:51 PM
wouldn't it take quite a bit of lube doing that, as much lube would go into the towel?

that method wouldn't get anything inside the case

prs
10-27-2014, 10:55 PM
Sassy Sue at antiqueguns.com sells a corn cob media with some kind of wax in it, but I don't get into that. I think it would just let the grime accumulate on the brass.

I wet tumble with citric acid and detergent and no ceramic or steel. After the tumble, I place in sink with strainer and rinse until clear. While still wet in the sink with just the residual water on the brass, I put a sweat pea sized piece of Lee Case lube on my hands and run the brass though my fingers like a miser with his gold. I dry in 4 tier food dehydrator. Batch size of 40S&W, 45 Colt, or 45ACP can exceed 300, so not much lube for all of that. Most of the lube probably drips away, but the tiny trace left lets the progressive press run like a knife though hot butter. Even with the carbide dies the force needed with unlubed clean brass is considerable and the dies pick-up brass. Dies stay clean with the trace of lube and my arm appreciates the ease.

prs

mallen
10-27-2014, 11:05 PM
my goal is to get lube on the inside.

i should be able to just tumble in teh stainless after its all clean, but with wax added? what type of lube you think will work? obviously something that wont screw with powder as itl be inside the case

KYCaster
10-28-2014, 12:20 AM
my goal is to get lube on the inside.

i should be able to just tumble in teh stainless after its all clean, but with wax added? what type of lube you think will work? obviously something that wont screw with powder as itl be inside the case


Doesn't matter what lube you use, it's best to remove it before you shoot them.

Yes, I know it's not absolutely necessary to remove the lube, but I've used quite a few different lubes and I think it's best to remove the residual lube before shooting.

Jerry

mallen
10-28-2014, 12:30 AM
wouldnt be able to remove lube from the inside.

country gent
10-28-2014, 12:36 AM
Also wet lubes inside the case can affect the powder charge's ignition and burn. Best is the shot with moly, graphite or motor mica. Another nice applicator for this is a short nylon pistol brush. Drill and tap a 8X32 hole in a 1" copper pipe clamp on center. drill and tap the same hole in a block of wood. Put a little of the dry lybes in the bottom of the capwork a little into the brush to start. With a twistig motion run case onto brush down to pipe cap and back up brush will apply a light coat and not be excessive. The same pipe cap with plastic, steel, brass, rubber, or lead beads works also. Inside the case neck you need a dry lube or to clean after expanding.

mallen
10-28-2014, 12:41 AM
dumb noob qeustion here.

ss media can be used dry?