New 44 1/2

[Old44]

120243120244120245120246Hello all.

Just acquired a new toy. It's a Stevens 44 1/2 model 52!

Needs a little TLC but it's in pretty good shape mechanically.
Been re-barreled with a Douglas in 22 l.r. marked "Doug XX" and "C.C. Johnson"

The cracked stock will need repaired and the trigger guard will need refinished.
The butt plate needs some obvious help.

I welcome any comments and suggestions before I do anything serious.

Mark

[Chill Wills]

Hello and great old Stevens. Looks like a fun project. Because you are even interested in this rifle I have to assume you might have a lot of knowledge on old Singleshots and I would not want to start out by telling you things you may know better than me.
So....... I will ask, do you know about the first and best resource CPA Stevens?

Also, for my personal "want", could you post a picture of the stock comb / tang area from the top down?

To stabilize the open figure in the butt grain I would look into a dark brown epoxy product; fill it and bring it back down to level. Easier said than done and many good gunsmiths really have no experience with this. However out there amongst us are many wizards with restoration, both pro and hobbyist that know how to handle this repair and have patients enough to restore this great old wood. Maybe you?

[oldred]

Those cracks appear to be too wide for the Super glue trick but I have had really good results using the Epoxy that CW just recommended. What I did was to mix sanding dust from the surrounding wood with the Epoxy, just takes a little to get the color right, then I thinned it with Acetone to a water like consistency that wicked down into the cracks quite well. If you do thin Epoxy with Acetone try a test batch first to make sure it will harden properly before using any of the mix on your stock but so far it has worked for me. Normally on thin cracks or checks in the wood I use a good quality (NOT the cheap stuff!) Super glue such as Loctite brand, that stuff will wick into even hairline cracks and most times will go all the way to the bottom, I have cut open test pieces and it's incrediable how deep Super glue will wick into a crack and the good brands make a stronger bond than the surrounding wood.

[Superduty]

I have had good luck using arglass bedding compound on large cracks comes with coloring to match your stock.

[Old44]

I'll get you that picture of the stock later today, you'll have to tell me of your special interest in that area, I'm curious.

When I removed the butt plate, I found the stock was drilled filled with many pounds of lead!! Will have to remove that to make repairs.
Yes, I am fairly good at wood-working and feel I can bring the splits down to level before gluing it. But the lead is probably what caused the damage.
When I fill the hole back up, I thought about using stock bedding compound as it doesn't expand and possibly adding lead to it for weight. Will seek the forums advice on that. advice on that.

Now the superglue trick is something I haven't tried. Will have to experiment with that if I can get the wood down to reasonable level..

[john hayslip]

If you need it Frank DeHaas's book "Single Shot Rifles" has a good section on the 44 1/2. I have a copy. I have a Ballard that was relined with a 22 liner by CC Johnson. It's a tack driver. What caliber is the 44 1/2? Since it's a Schutzen I'd guess 32-40. As they were primarily off hand guns the lead is probably there for balance when shooting off hand.

[Old44]

If you need it Frank DeHaas's book "Single Shot Rifles" has a good section on the 44 1/2. I have a copy. I have a Ballard that was relined with a 22 liner by CC Johnson. It's a tack driver. What caliber is the 44 1/2? Since it's a Schutzen I'd guess 32-40. As they were primarily off hand guns the lead is probably there for balance when shooting off hand.

It's a 22 L.R. now, but as I mentioned it has been re-barreled. The barrel is 28", 1.115" at the breech and .995" at the muzzle.
Add that the butt stock is 3lb 7oz without the butt plate, is quite a heavy rifle.

I do have James J. Grant's "Single Shot Rifles" first printing 1947, a gift from a friend.

[OuchHot!]

I had an old M75 .22 that someone "improved" by drilling the butt and filling with lead. The lead oxidized and expanded with the same end result as your rifle. That is a great rifle and, I bet, soon to be beautiful.

[John Allen]

That is a great looking stevens. I have not met a single shot that I do not like.

[big bore 99]

A beautiful project rifle. I've used sawdust mixed with 2 part epoxy for stock repairs with good results. Post a pic when complete!

[slumlord44]

If it was mine I would find a pro to fix the stock. Removing the lead seems like the first step. This is a rare and high dollar gun. Unless you are and expert on stock repair, I would have it restored properly. Beautiful gun.

[slumlord44]

If it was mine I would find a pro to fix the stock. Removing the lead seems like the first step. This is a rare and high dollar gun. Unless you are and expert on stock repair, I would have it restored properly. Beautiful gun.

[Frank46]

I was just going to post about the lead oxidizing and expanding enough to cause the cracks. Someone beat me to it. Somewhere there is a jungle carbine that had lead shot glued into the cutouts in the forend and also some in a plastic baggie in the butt. Frank

[Chill Wills]

I'll get you that picture of the stock later today, you'll have to tell me of your special interest in that area, I'm curious.
.

Sure, sorry I did not provide why I asked but I did not want to highjack your post.
I have a CPA reproduction that is a very close match to this rifle right down to the grain flow in the butt. I got it 12 or 15 years ago.

However my real question is that I have always felt the butt stock on mine was a little wide and clumsy through the nose of the comb and many of the old rifles of that vintage are extremely thin or narrow through this area. Stevens tho, did things their own way and some of the stock work WAS thick and a bit of a boat oar. Also, some of the target rifles of that time were sent with production wood and a few were fully custom, one-off rifles. So, this is an opportunity to check one more example.

So if there is any chance you would post more pictures I know some of us would enjoy seeing them. Thanks! -Michael

[Chev. William]

After you get the Lead out of that Butt Stock, and repair the splits, you might consider replacing the Lead with an Equal weight of Tungsten Rod or Shot, Epoxy coated to reduce the remote possibility of future expansion from corrosion, and held in place bysome 'forgiving' filler. Tungsten being of higher density than Lead, should allow a smaller Volume to be used for the Counter-balance weighting.

Lovely Rifle even in it current condition, "You Did Good".

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Old44]

Chev, those are the lines I'm thinking. To use Tungsten in a medium of stock bedding, since it is actually designed for that use.
The lead is not an option since two postings of similar bad results have been posted.

This is why I'm seeking advice before I do the serious work. Nice to talk it over.

Chill, no problem about the highjacking, since these are pictures of the rifle!! Let me know if they answer your question.

120389120390120391

[Old44]

Here's some additional interesting information.
In the book I mentioned above, Mr. Grant cites:
"The standard 44 1/2 action and higher grades of this action--models 45, 47, 49 and 54--were made in a thickness of frame of about 1 3/16 inches. The models 51 and 52 were slightly heavier,usually about 1/32-inch thicker, and slightly deeper at the point of the barrel housing, or receiver ring.

I bring this up because this rifle is a model 52 and is only 1 1/8" wide. Chill how does this compare with your gun?

Anyone have something to add to this?

[Chill Wills]

Old44,
The new reproductions are wider than yours at 1.230" This was not measured from the Schuetzen rifle but an other one I have. The Schuetzen rifle was in back, hard to get to.....
You might know this; Paul Shuttleworth said when they decided to produce new actions as reproductions, he wanted to be able to include the larger rifle cases as optional chamberings that the old Stevens 44-1/2 never could. Cases up to 45-70 diameter. So he designed in some additional width. It is hardly noticeable.

Thanks for the pictures! They confirm the accuracy of the stock blank CPA offers in this style. In other words, my rifle is close in width to what your photos look like of yours. I have been checking. That has been the consensuses so far and this rifle of yours supports it too.

You have a very nice rifle! The additional pictures were not only helpful but are great to look at. Great wood. Great case still showing color and engraved! Wow! Very nice!
A keeper! -Michael

[Gunlaker]

Here's some additional interesting information.
In the book I mentioned above, Mr. Grant cites:
"The standard 44 1/2 action and higher grades of this action--models 45, 47, 49 and 54--were made in a thickness of frame of about 1 3/16 inches. The models 51 and 52 were slightly heavier,usually about 1/32-inch thicker, and slightly deeper at the point of the barrel housing, or receiver ring.

I bring this up because this rifle is a model 52 and is only 1 1/8" wide. Chill how does this compare with your gun?

Anyone have something to add to this?

That is interesting. I have a reprint of a Stevens catalog from Buffalo Arms. It mentions the heavier frames as adding weight (and if I recall they were optional?) but I've seen no other reference to it.

Chris.

[calaloo]

Most certainly the lead oxidized and caused the split. I have added lead to the butt stock on several rifles but always encase it in a stainless steel tube. C.C. Johnsons grandson frequents the ASSRA forum and will provide shop records if requested.

[Old44]

Thanks for the info on C. C. Johnson, it would be great if I could find some history on this rifle. I imagin someone changed the barrel because of black powder fouling. We've all seen it ruin a barrel before.

Maybe a little more research is needed on the heavy frame, seeing there is an inconsistency between Mr. Grant and my gun. Maybe a misprint in his part?

Does anyone have a dimension on an original 44 1/2 to compare?

[Old44]

I have removed the stock, trigger group and hammer for cleaning, all came out easily.

Now there is a cross pin that the lever pivots on. There is a threaded hole running vertically that appears to be missing a screw. Looks like this screw enters a notch that holds the cross pin in place. Does this pin need to be driven out to free the lever, if so which direction?

[Chill Wills]

I have removed the stock, trigger group and hammer for cleaning, all came out easily.

Now there is a cross pin that the lever pivots on. There is a threaded hole running vertically that appears to be missing a screw. Looks like this screw enters a notch that holds the cross pin in place. Does this pin need to be driven out to free the hammer, if so which direction?

No. that pin is not tapered. It will go in and out from either side and wrong side too.:shock:
That pin holds the breach block and extractor with the lever all coming out the bottom. Sounds harder than it is.

Also, back off the mainspring screw a few turns (where it attaches to the tang) when doing to take down.

[Old44]

Thanks chill, the pin is tight and I didn't want to force it, guess I'll soak it for a while.

[Lead pot]

I just picked up a 44-1/2 from CPA the receiver is 1.240". I sent Paul my reamer for the .44-75 Ballard chamber. This case is 2.5" based on the cut down .45-2.6 case. I think this is about as long as I would go to clear the hammer.
That sure is a fine rifle you have. You could have CPA make you a new butt stock and put the original away for safe storage if you ever want to put it back on.

[Old44]

I just picked up a 44-1/2 from CPA the receiver is 1.240". I sent Paul my reamer for the .44-75 Ballard chamber. This case is 2.5" based on the cut down .45-2.6 case. I think this is about as long as I would go to clear the hammer.
That sure is a fine rifle you have. You could have CPA make you a new butt stock and put the original away for safe storage if you ever want to put it back on.

I think that giving the 1.240" for the CPA the 1.125" for mine sounds about right. But like Gunlaker says, there is reference to a heavier frame, which the 52 is supposed to be.

Now for an update: the lead is out of the stock, all 2+ pounds of it!! I scrubbed the stock down as a lot of the lead had turned to white powder. Then clamped the cracks together till it dried. The separations closed up some and a light clamping will let it go all the way now that the lead is no longer there.
Now I always used wood glue as I've always been into woodworking. But now all your suggestions about epoxy and super glue has me thinking.

Got the pin out of the lever and disassembled the rest of the gun. Cleaned all the gunk and everything looks great except for a broken firing pin. Too much dry firing in the past. What I did find is a re-worked extractor, looks like a brazed addition to the top. This indicates that the gun was not a .22 at birth, could have been a 32-40 as John suggested.

Still have to deceid what to do with the lever and butt plate. Might just put it together and shoot it then finish it at a later date.

[Chev. William]

You might think about getting a new extractor from "Wisners" and save the 'brazed' one for the future.

"Gun Garage" on Ebay has been selling reproduction firing pins so you mihg tcheck waht they have.

If you are into repairing the firing pin, think about drilling the existing piece and inserting a suitable size Dowel Pin, then trim it to length, to form a new Tip.

Best Regards,
Chev. William