Need help making 243 brass

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I have a 243 bolt action rifle with very little brass for it. I do have lots of once fired 308 brass however. I thought it would be a simple job to neck size the 308 to 243 if I ran the 308 cases into a 243 sizing die, after all isn't that what the 243 is? Well it just didn't happen. While the neck on the 308 cases were partially sized to 6mm the case would not go into the die far enough to make the 243 shoulder. As you can see in the picture the 308 cases have a bulge where a smooth shoulder should be. This bulge prevents the cases from chambering. If anyone has made 243 cases from 308 I would appreciate it if you told me the steps I need to make to do the same.

[243winxb]

Waste of time. But if you must. Size first in 308 die. Lube well with RCBS lube. Push into 243 die part way, back out, do this 3 times. Its possible that the 308 brass will never fit. Also check neck diameter of the loaded rounds. Should not be larger than .276" to fit chamber.


Forming vs. Sizing
Posted by on 19 October 2011 02:58 PM



Case forming dies are usually cut to size the case slightly smaller than the minimum SAAMI (Small Arms Ammunition Manufacturers Institute) dimensions, to account for the brass case's tendency to spring back after sizing.

Our full length sizing dies are cut to size the case closer to the middle of the SAAMI dimension, because that is where most rifle's chambers are made, and to size to the minimum would shorten case life. Whether or not our full length sizing die will work as a case forming die depends upon the chamber dimensions of your rifle, and how much spring back there will be when sizing the case.



http://leeprecision.net/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/126/0/forming-vs-sizing

[pworley1]

You should be able to make the conversion. You will need to anneal the necks and remove the expander stem from you sizing die in order to form the neck properly. After you make the brass you may need to thin the newly formed neck. Good luck.

[bruce drake]

1. Use more case lubricant. I recommend using Unique or Imperial sizing wax. I've reformed 308 Win cases to 260 Remington and all the way down to 6.5 Creedmoor with no problem if properly lubricated. The 6.5 Creedmoor is basically .264 diameter and pushes the shoulder 5mm further down to 46mm versus the 260 Rem which is a 6.5x51mm.

2. Once you do get that neck sized down, you may find that the brass is thicker so be prepared to thin the neck with a neck turning. But load a dummy round first and see if it chambers in your rifle. If it does, than you'll be blessed with less neck failures.

[williamwaco]

Gopher,

Don't give up.

It is possible.

I have done it with RCBS full length sizing die but it was 50 years ago. I am sorry I don't remember the details.

After sizing down, the necks will be too thick and you will have to either ream them or outside turn them.

[bruce drake]

And I'm sorry, but I reformed nearly 100 pieces of 243 brass into 6.5 Creedmoor a month ago as the cases were range pickups and had been sitting on a shelf for nearly a year. There is a WTB/WTS column on this forum where other shooters may have the 243 Brass you need if the reforming doesn't work for you. If I had known I might have just thrown them in a box and mailed them out to you.

Bruce

[243winxb]

A cheap press may be damaged doing this sizing.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I was using the Rockchucker press to resize the cases and I was using STP as a lubricant. You can't get much slicker than that. I did not anneal the cases however. I will try that tomorrow. 243, Normally I wouldn't bother with this extra step in reloading but I do have lots of time and no 243 brass so I thought , why not. I want to thank all of you who responded to my request. As I have said many times, on this site you just have to ask and help arrives muy pronto

[country gent]

You might try using the seating die to "rough" form the brass first it is slightly bigger than the sizing die. Annealing before sizing helps alot also. Chances are good you will end up neck turning these formed cases also. You might consider annealing again as the last step as sizing down this much will harden brass some. Also reforming down in neck size lengthens cases and thickens necks. Measure nek walls to see how thick and that they remained concentric. Bullet dia + neck wall thickness X 2 = loaded round dia. A fired case will give a good idea of neck dia of chamber or a chamber cast. Leave at least .001 clearence for neck to release bullet. Imperial sizing die wax is the case lube to use for this. STP sprays dont always have the viscovity for these pressures reforming cases.

[Artful]

Ok, it's been 30+ years but here's some things besides the above good advise you were given.

When I made 243 or 22-250 from 7.62x51 NATO - I tried to go in steps
1st was pull the decapping stem from my 308 sizing dies
- full length size then sized again in small base 308 dies
- and Imperial wax is head and shoulders above stp trust us,
if you don't want to buy Imperial look for lanolin (yes from sheep)

Then I annealed the brass, don't over anneal or the shoulder will collapse.

Then I started to size down the neck again - as I remember it was 7x57 die with expander removed, then 250 savage die just doing the neck again and then it was 243 die.
unless I wanted 22-250 then it followed by that die.

Then trimmed brass to same correct length.

This left the neck too thick so I then put the outside reaming attachment
on my Forester tool and this made a uniform neck of correct thickness.

Then annealed again, otherwise I only got like 2-3 reloadings out of 'em.

Total pain in the rear, and I use commercial cases now - so you could see about swapping or selling and the procuring 243 brass.

[Houndog]

Anneal the case necks before you even try to size the cases down! Life WILL be a whole bunch easier! Forget the STP as a sizing lube and use Imperial die sizing wax or a mixture of 50/50 ANHYDROUS lanolin and either Castor Oil or Vaseline. Just put this mix in a microwavable container, pop it in a microwave for about a minute, stir, and let it cool. Get a little of this mix on your fingers, rub them together and LIGHTLY coat your cases. A little goes a LONG way! If you have or can beg/borrow or buy a 7/08 sizing die, use that as an intermediate step, and DO NOT use an expander ball/decapping stem while you are sizing down the cases! I reform lots of brass into something else for Benchrest and other wildcat chamberings. This basic method hasn't failed me yet!

[trails4u]

Many of us have surpluses of .243.....anything interesting to trade? Other than 308 brass!? :) I'm being a bit facetious, but in all seriousness, if you have other calibers you can spare, I'm sure you could find a trade here.

[williamwaco]

Ok, it's been 30+ years but here's some things besides the above good advise you were given.

When I made 243 or 22-250 from 7.62x51 NATO - I tried to go in steps
1st was pull the decapping stem from my 308 sizing dies
- full length size then sized again in small base 308 dies
- and Imperial wax is head and shoulders above stp trust us,
if you don't want to buy Imperial look for lanolin (yes from sheep)

Then I annealed the brass, don't over anneal or the shoulder will collapse.

Then I started to size down the neck again - as I remember it was 7x57 die with expander removed, then 250 savage die just doing the neck again and then it was 243 die.
unless I wanted 22-250 then it followed by that die.

Then trimmed brass to same correct length.

This left the neck too thick so I then put the outside reaming attachment
on my Forester tool and this made a uniform neck of correct thickness.

Then annealed again, otherwise I only got like 2-3 reloadings out of 'em.

Total pain in the rear, and I use commercial cases now - so you could see about swapping or selling and the procuring 243 brass.


I didn't think of this but this is very important.

If you size down to .243 with the decapping rod still in the die. The case neck will be much too thick and the inside diameter of the case neck much too small.

When you pull the case out of the die, the expander plug will make it difficult to pull the case out of the die, and here is the bad news, the expander plug will/might pull the shoulder forward enough to look funny and in my case so far that the case would not chamber.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Some of the advise above is good, some not so much. If you must do this a progressive approach is the best way to go, and by that I mean size the neck down in steps. .308 to 7mm, 7mm to 6mm. This way you are only sizing the case neck about .040 at one time. Trying to go all at once will probably give you problems. It would be better yet if you could do it in .020 steps, as that would work the brass less.

Cases neck up easier than they neck down as it is easier to stretch metal than it is to compress it.

A much easier way to obtain .243 Brass is to go to the WTB section and ask if anyone has any they'd turn loose of. You will probably get a response within minutes and surely within an hour.

What you are trying to do is possible, however it is not necessary. If there was no other way or you simply wanted the challenge I'd say go for it. Reinventing the wheel seldom results in a better wheel.

One other thing to consider is that it would be nice to have the ".243 Win" on the case head to differentiate that brass from .308 brass.

My .02

Randy

[cowboybart]

You defiantly need to go in steps, the more the easier. You WILL have to turn your necks or inside ream the necks. I did this a few years ago when I couldn't find reasonably priced 7-08 brass. I did not turn the necks as they chambered in the rifle fine. However upon firing the neck had no room to expand and caused high pressures (flat primers/hard bolt lift). Necking up is much easier and safer. If you have to neck down I usually try to make it one cal size only.

If you fully prep your 308 brass (size/deprime/trim/clean), I'm sure somebody will trade you 243 brass for it. Unfortunately all my 243 brass has been necked up to 260.

[Airman Basic]

I did this years ago also. Just one step, though. From 308 straight to 243. Did have to turn the necks, and anneal or they won't last long. Left a crease in the shoulder, but it ironed out on firing. Still using some of those after 20 some years, so it works.

[r1kk1]

I guess if I can find correct headstamp brass I don't bother with it. I try to neck up when I can and use a tapered expander like the one CH4D sells. I agree that necking down in steps is the way to do it.

Take care


r1kk1