Bluing advice

[Petrol & Powder]

I've got an older shotgun that has a lot of sentimental value and I'm considering having it re-blued. It's well worn but still pretty good shape, no pitting or serious rust. However the finish is going in some places and flat out gone in others.

It's not a terribly expensive gun but it means a lot to me. Due to fear of loss, I'd prefer not to ship it.
Does anyone have a recommendation for someone in Virginia that can do a decent re-bluing job?

Thanks

[MaryB]

I had a local gunsmith reblue and restock the old Stevens 16 gauge I got from my dad when I turned 14. When I go tit the stock had been sawed off to fit him as a kid then some ugly hunk of other stock screwed back on the lengthen it again. When it was finished I gave it back to dad at Christmas and he used it for 10 years as his favorite pheasant gun. I got it back when he passed away this summer and am engraving it with his name for a nephew who wants it. Keep it in the family! My nephew is going to use it to teach his daughters to shoot when they get old enough. He picked up a loader and 1,000 hulls so feeding it won't be an issue.

[RKJ]

Take a look at Brownells OxphoBlue. It does a bang up job and is easy to use. There are some very good directions on their site (in the reviews). I did a 1911 and a S&W M28 that (I think) look real good. The only complaints I have are the hazmat charge for shipping (I understand it's not Brownells) and on the L/S side of the slide on the 1911, I must have not degreased it well enough as it's a little light there. The frame and all small parts are as black as coal and the M28 turned out great too. Seriously, if I can get a good looking finish anyone can. The 4 oz bottle almost did both guns but I had 2 bottles and used just a little from the 2nd one.

[Petrol & Powder]

I've used cold blue on small parts but I don't want to tackle an entire long gun.

[Ickisrulz]

Plinkington Classic rust blue is easy to use and you get a nice finish. You might want to research this as an option. The only thing is parts have to be boiled so some kind of large tank is needed. The bluing and a tank runs about $100 from Brownells.

[captaint]

The true art of a re-blue is in the polish. This is where it usually goes wrong. Guys polish WAY too much with the abrasive wheel and actually wreck a gun, finish wise. Hand polish is the way to go - does it cost more ? of course. But we get a much better job, overall. Often, it's difficult to even find somebody to polish by hand. If you're handy, I would consider the rust blue mentioned above. You'd even have the satisfaction knowing you did the old heirloom yourself. Mike

[Petrol & Powder]

I though about that but I don't think it would be economical to acquire all of the equipment needed to blue 1 long gun vs. paying someone else to do it. I'm fine with gunsmith type work but the initial set-up costs for bluing is too much to justify for one gun and I don't really want to get into the bluing business.

[Ickisrulz]

I though about that but I don't think it would be economical to acquire all of the equipment needed to blue 1 long gun vs. paying someone else to do it. I'm fine with gunsmith type work but the initial set-up costs for bluing is too much to justify for one gun and I don't really want to get into the bluing business.

You didn't say what kind of shotgun you have. The cheapest I see bluing prices is about $100 for a single shot. If you buy the tank and a bottle of bluing you can do many guns in the future and be ahead money. Just something to think about.

[HangFireW8]

If it is a S/S or O/U and old, keep in mind it may have soft solder and will come apart in hot bluing tanks. If this is the case, rust blue or professional hot water blue is the way to go.

And +1 on the advice given that the finish is in the polish prep. Bluing is just for color and glare reduction.

[Mk42gunner]

One other thing to keep in mind is if it is case hardened, it will come out of hot bluing tanks a golden/plum color not blue.

Robert

[Petrol & Powder]

It's an old Ithaca 37 so I don't have the problems with the solder between the barrels or a case hardened receiver. What I'd like to find is a decent gunsmith in VA that can do a good polish and hot blue.

[country gent]

Hit the gun shows and ask around at the local clubs. A local guy might be recomended by word of mouth. Ask around at guns shops sporting goods stores and where ever shooting takes place. A few answers of the same smiths name and good reviews are a good sighn.

[beroen]

Sorry to thread jack I hope the OP does not mind but I was searching when I found this.. so it's not a great idea to let a gun with no blueing left on it to pitina?

if it's getting used it would be more susceptible To rust with no blue so if one is going to use it they should blue it right.

My savage 99 has no blue on the receiver at all!
The last 7 year's of no use have started a light rust pitina trying to figure out what to do.

[Mk42gunner]

Gotta love those older Ithacas, especially if they have that big orange Raybar front sight on them.

IF you know any trap shooters ask them, the ones I used to know were always changing something on their guns, including refinishing; in the search for one more broken target. Most of them were pretty picky too, so you might get some good advice.

Robert

[MtGun44]

From what I read, a rust blue is labor intensive but cheap as far as equipment and chems. Also, easily
redone if needed.

Bill

[rking22]

My rust blue "tank" is a piece of pvc pipe. Boil the water in a pot, pour into the standing pipe, lower barrel/ action assy into the steaming water. Has worked fine on several projects. Sorry, I don't know anyone in VA that does bluing. Just thought I'd chime in on the 100$ tank thing :)

[oldred]

My rust blue "tank" is a piece of pvc pipe. Boil the water in a pot, pour into the standing pipe, lower barrel/ action assy into the steaming water. Has worked fine on several projects. Sorry, I don't know anyone in VA that does bluing. Just thought I'd chime in on the 100$ tank thing :)


For around $50 a person can get enough Mark Lee Express blue and a piece of PVC pipe to blue a bunch of guns, looks and wears REALLY good too! I just finished a Marlin 336 and an old Revelation (Model 94 Stevens sold by Western Auto) 16 ga shotgun and both turned out really nice. I have found this product to be very easy to use and to produce outstanding results, I usually go at least 8 to 9 applications and sometimes more but after the parts are sanded/polished/prepped the rest is easy. The PVC scalding method seems to work fine although I think they recommend actually boiling the parts for 5 minutes in distilled water which would require a metal tank and a burner set-up, I have done it both ways and either seems to work just fine.

Probably the toughest blue a person can use.