Uneven revolver forcing cone= poor accuracy?

[destrux]

I've got a nice little H&R revolver, 1950's vintage, and the gun has a nice 3 pound trigger pull and operates smooth as silk, but it can't hit a paper plate consistently at 25 yards. I can shoot, I have no problem shooting small groups with my other pistols.

I took a look at it and the cylinder lockup is tight, the crown is in excellent shape and the bore is clean and shiny. The forcing cone though appears to be cut off center. You can see that one side of the cone is cut deeper than the other and after shooting a few rounds you can see lead starts building up about a half inch into the bore on only one side, opposite the offset of the crooked forcing cone. I'm assuming this is the big cause for the poor accuracy, but I don't know a great deal about revolvers. Am I on the right track here? I was going to buy a forcing cone reamer (they call it a revolver chamfering tool) from brownells and recut it straight myself.

[Outpost75]

Reaming the forcing cone with the Brownell reamer will fix it. You need to be careful not to overdo it. They made a Go-NoGo drop gage to measure your progress which is worthwhile to get also. Lacking the gage, if you carefully ream the existing cone just enough to clean up the eccentricity, you should be OK. You want the major diameter of the forcing cone entrance not to exceed 1.05 times max. bullet diameter, or .330" for a .32. A fired .32 S&W Long case will be about .335" mouth diameter. If the case mouth not quite goes into your recut forcing cone you have not over-done it.

[destrux]

Thanks. This one's actually a .22LR, I forgot to mention. I'll give it a try and see how it goes.