Redhawk hitting DA notch when fired SA

[hogstad7]

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[contender1]

I would start with a factory spring first. It's the easiest & cheapest part to replace & work from there.

[Petrol & Powder]

I concur on replacing the mainspring as the correct starting point. I can strongly recommend, http://www.triggershims.com/ as a source for springs and shims for that Ruger. They are good folks to deal with and it's an inexpensive place to start. If that fails to fix the problem you may have to send the gun to Ruger because they do not sell hammers & related parts. However the plus side it that Ruger is very good to deal with.

[Petrol & Powder]

Just noticed you are in Norway. Shipping the gun to Ruger may not be a good option for you.

[44man]

The gun depends on a trigger pull to bring it back enough. The wrong thing is to cut the spring, reduces trigger pull just enough. Best trigger fix for a RH is to work metal. Put a new spring in and it will work.

[jrayborn]

The spring has nothing to do with your issue. Mechanically there is something interfering with the SA trigger. I suspect it is the hammer dog. Take it apart and have a look. Should be easy to figure out.

[44man]

Too light a spring will break the sear without the trigger moving rearward enough. The trigger MUST go back more to clear the double action dog.
I have the same trouble with SA's with transfer bars. If I make the trigger too light, it will kick my finger forward and drop the transfer bar. I fixed it by making my own transfer bars for a few guns. I make them longer so they don't come off the pin. I have an average of 1-1/2# on my SA's.
The RH is a pain with one spring, no way to fool with it without trouble.
It is SURE the spring.

[hogstad7]

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[44man]

That makes sense. I have looked at the gun today with a flashlight pointed down at the hammerdog. It seems it releases a bit early and the dog hits the searnotch. It it also kicking my finger forwards. I will replace the mainspring and see what happens. I noticed also that one of my chambers is hard to cock. Both SA and DA. Is there a easy fix? If not, I think I will just mark the chamber with a punch and not use it. It is only allowed to load and fire 5 shots in the diciplines i compete in, so it is not a big deal.
Could be a burr on the ratchet that the hand turns. I lube cylinder pins and the front bushing and rear ratchet with STP, don't shoot dry.
Fast, double action is hard on a gun so make sure you lube. STP also cushions the cylinder slam to the recoil plate. Gun oil will not do that.
Inspect, check for a burr and stone it off.
You found the problem, your finger kicks with a perfect pull.
I bought my 10-1/2" SBH when it first came out, about 1980 or so. I shot only heavy IHMSA loads and for many years use 320 to 330 gr boolits for deer. I am very near 80,000 heavy loads and uncounted can loads. I can not measure end play or side play without a dial indicator. It is as tight as new due to STP. It prevents hand wear too.
The stuff creeps into the actions too and is welcome on all parts.
I know I am the first to use it but someone says I just use "this", not good enough, believe me. I try to convert so you have no wear. A little jug is a lifetimes worth of saving your gun.

[hogstad7]

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[44man]

Yes, oil treatment. I think RCBS case lube is STP and it works too. So will chain saw bar oil. The lube does wonders on the contender pin or a break open shotgun pin. Your gun will not get loose. Over under shotguns thrive on it.
It only takes a small amount.
Put STP on the cylinder pin of a cap and ball and you will get more shots without binding.
It is a wonder lube. I keep it in a squeeze bottle so I get a drop at a time.

[hogstad7]

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[jrayborn]

Hmmmmmm not the spring... Well if you wanted to, you could remove the hammer dog completely and then try the single action without it. If the problem goes away you will know with certainty that it is the hammer dog that needs to be fit...

Give it a try, its easy and free!

Good luck!

[44man]

Time to go to Ruger. Call them.

[Outpost75]

The condition you describe at the factory is called "hammer hang-up" and is supposed to be inspected for 100% and corrected during initial assembly. You should return your gun either to Ruger or a factory authorized service center.

[hogstad7]

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[Three44s]

hogstad7,

Hello,

A half Norsk here in the states with a RH also, and a pile of other Rugers as well!

I think you need to start with a call to Ruger. There must be a recommended service option that you can legally and feasibly get your revolver to. If Ruger likes Norsk money ..... they better keep their act together!

I realize you bought your RH used but that's immaterial. You may well not get the work for free though you should ......... but it needs to be "right" and economical at the very minimum.

I hope this works out for you ........ the RH is one heck of a good platform ...... and durability is it's strong suit. Your's is not living up to that right now and the ball ought to be in Ruger's corner to get you some help.

Best regards and much luck!

Three 44s

[44man]

I wish I had a RH here to study, I do not at the time.

[nhrifle]

Take a good look at the pivot pins or screw for both the hammer and trigger as well as the holes in the hammer and trigger. If there is some wear at any of those places, it could cause unwanted movement and lead to your condition. If this is the case, an experienced machinist should be able to correct it quite easily.

[hogstad7]

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[happie2shoot]

if you can get the prints of the RH and find what the
distance is between the trigger pin and the hammer
pin you can drill that in a block of steel and put pins
in block and trigger and hammer on pins and study
the movement between them and see where they
are hitting.

[hogstad7]

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[44man]

Yep, pull too light.

[happie2shoot]

There still can be something bumping and you are not noticing
it and taking power away from the hammer fall.

I have seen this in Redhawks including my own.