Scope block heights for Lyman Super Targetspot on 1885 w/ No. 3 Barrel

[ohland]

Folks, I would like to get a set of scope blocks for a Lyman Super Targetspot on a >real< Winchester 1885 low-wall with a No. 3 barrel. Taper is @ .0046 per inch, bases will be on 7.2 inch centers, so the front block would be @ .034 higher in order to keep the scope level.

Having said that, for this gun, a 32-40, would it be OK to just use the same block heights fore and aft? I sent a note to Steve Earle a few days ago, and either my phrasing was obtuse (quite possible), he's busy, the French (Deathrace 2000, anyone?), or whatever.

[Hiwall55]

Look at the sizes at buffalo arms. Get a rear and two fronts . You can change the fronts out if need be. Look under posa mts.

[country gent]

On the 7.2 spacing the .046 diffrence would be About 9 mins elevation built in. Should zero and be a benifit for longer ranges.

[nhrifle]

Scope bases can be shimmed.

[Doc Highwall]

On the 7.2 spacing the .046 diffrence would be About 9 mins elevation built in. Should zero and be a benifit for longer ranges.

I agree and most of mine the rear base is at least .100" higher.

[frnkeore]

I agree that same hight should fine but, make sure you get blocks at least .250 tall. I have .200 on the rear and .180 on the front, on my rifle and the STS bell just clears the barrel by about .020 when set at 200 yards.

Frank

[rr2241tx]

I recently put a set of Steve Earle's 3/16 flat bottomed blocks on an original 1909 Winchester 1885 Single Shot low wall with a #3 barrel and mounted a 10X Unertl scope on it. There's about .25" clearance between the objective bell and the top flat.

[John Boy]

Having said that, for this gun, a 32-40, would it be OK to just use the same block heights fore and aft? Yes, the only time one wants to use different height blocks is for elevation increase shooting long distance, ie. 700 to 1000yds. With a 32-40, you'll maybe be shooting 300yds. Be sure to sight the scope in for 100yds using a bore sighter ... 1 grid equals 4" elevation increase or decrease

[ohland]

Just czeching to be sure. As soon as Steve tells me a good time to call, I'll be getting a standard set, 1/4" high.

Start message ---------------- //
As a very general rule, using same-height blocks front and rear covers about 90% of the applications, for "normal" calibers out to 200-300 yds. If you want to shoot 22 shorts at 600, that's another problem! The basic principle is that the bullet is dropping or falling as soon as it leaves the muzzle. So having the scope level means that you'd be using up elevation from the start, just to get the scope aimed downward at the already-falling bullet. The barrel taper does this for you, for nothing, and gets you closer to the center of scope's elevation adjustment from the beginning.

Either 3/16" or 1/4" high blocks should be fine here.
Steve -------------------- // End message

[Doc Highwall]

It has been mentioned make sure the front block is high enough that when you raise the scope up for distance shooting, that the front of the scope moves down toward the barrel. I have Winchester 52C that has a 15X Unertl 2" Ultra Varmint with a 6" sun shade that almost touches the barrel when I raise it up for 200 yards.

[EDG]

Just a data point here but I have bored sighted many low velocity rifles - mostly 45-70s shooting 1100 to 1400.
These rifles normally have the bore pointing up hill about 3 ft.

If the cross hairs or aperture sight is on the bullseye at 100 yards the bore will be pointing 3 ft over the target after sight in.