Please check my Rex C100 PID wiring

[htuong95]

Can someone check if my diagram is correct? I am using a Rex C100 PID.

116917

[el34]

The controller appears to have relay contacts for its output. If that's correct it won't trigger the SSR. Has this controller been modified to convert it to SSR output?

Everything else is good.

[htuong95]

Thanks! This one does not have the internal SSR.

116918

[dikman]

This is posted in your other post, but I'll answer here as well - are you sure that you want a 220v input (being in the US)?

[htuong95]

It should be 110v. Is it not going to work with 110v?

[el34]

Good catch dikman. On the diagram in the first post the controller connection diagram shows relay contacts for its output. That is still possibly another issue in addition to the 220 supply voltage.

[htuong95]

Here is my updated diagram.

116976

[el34]

Copied from that other thread running in parallel to this one-


I looked at the datasheet for the Rex-C100. It shows power input is either 24VDC or 100-240VAC. It also says to make sure your model is specified for the power you will be using.

So if it's an AC model, 110vac should be fine.

It also says the full model number indicates SSR or relay output.

C100 QQQ -Q~ QQ

The bold/underlined Q tells you the output-


Control output [OUT]

M : Relay contact
V : Voltage pulse
8 : Current 4 to 20mA DC
G : Trigger (for triac driving) *1


Is yours a model# qqq-V qq? (Just looking at the 4th Q).


Your two TC wires might be backwards. Red is the negative (-) by industry standard. Nothing bad will happen if it's bckwards, you might get a weird display, just reverse them.

[el34]

Thanks! This one does not have the internal SSR.

116918

It was there all along- model number has "-V" which means the output is to control an SSR.

Only other issue- input power. Rex documentation says 100 to 240 volts AC. There is no indication that there are different models for different AC input power. That's also the same with Auber and Mypin controllers. Then again his label only says 220.

htuong, I'd suggest just hooking up a line cord to the AC terminals and plugging it in. If it comes alive, it is happy with the 110V. The display might show funny characters, possibly indicating no TC connected, so a better sanity check is to hook up the AC and your TC to confirm the TC colored wires are correct. Remember which one goes to + and -. Just 110vac and TC connected it should show you room temp on the display.

[el34]

Just decoded more of the model number.

REX-C100FK02-V

The F means "reverse PID action" as opposed to "direct PID action" (B instead of F). Hopefully that doesn't mean it's for a cooling system instead of a heating system where it'll turn on its output if temp is too high, not if it's too low.

K means the TC is a type K. Good.

02 means the operating range is 0 to 400C. Probably ok, 400C is 752F.

Already stated, the -V means the main output is for controlling an external SSR.

So "reverse PID action" is the only question to me. Dikman, do you know what this means?

If you'd like, PM me an email address and I'll send the manual I found.

[dikman]

Nope, I tried to figure it out but there always seems to be this assumption in the various instructions that the user actually knows all about these things!! The problem is likely to be that the input voltage is too low (110v), it's highly likely that it's trying to operate but parts of it simply aren't functioning properly due to insufficient voltage (fairly unlikely that it's been damaged by this).
As for reading to 400*C, I'm not quite sure what that means either, as under one of the sub-menus when you select the K type T/C it indicates that it reads 0-1372*C.

I decided not to worry too much about a lot of the settings, as mine is working fine for what I need.

Htuong, I think you should concentrate on only one thread, as you currently have three going at once about the same thing (can be a bit confusing).

[el34]

I think I remember you or someone saying the Rex temp range could be set for a much higher range than the default.

Dikman, is yours of the "reverse PID action" variety as indicated by an F right after the C100 in its model #?

Agree- 3 simultaneous threads is becoming a hassle.

[htuong95]

The Rex temperature can be set to a higher range under the secret menu. Hold set and left button for 3 seconds, then enter 0001 under the code menu.

Right now I got it to display a positive number, but it is showing an incorrect temperature. I will have to calibrate it some how. Maybe this is because of the unit is a 220v only version.

[el34]

It would be useful if you can stick the tc in hot water along with a thermometer and compare.

[double bogey]

reverse acting in controls means: a rise in temperature causes a fall in output (for our purposes this is the correct action)

direct acting means: a rise in temperature causes a rise in output

[dikman]

el, I can't remember what was on the label, but the option is there in the sub-menu as I recall seeing it while looking through all the menus. I'm pretty sure the default is Direct Action. If I remember I'll turn it on tomorrow and check the setting (my gut feeling is that it's set to DA).

[leadman]

I've tried that pid before and could not get it to activate the SSR. The output should say SSR even though the tag said it does. Has to say SSR on the unit by the terminals.

[44magLeo]

I got my PID in yesterday. It is a REX C100FK02-V*AN. The tag on it has most of the same info as the one htoung posted. The NO is 14F96983, The Supply is 100-240 AC 50HZ-60HZ.
Berme INSTRUMENT INC , Made in China.
It has screws 1,2,3,4,5 on one side and 9,10 on the other.
It came in a kit with a 25 Amp SSR and a very short TC. I bought one with a 4 inch probe.
The SSR has 24-380 volts on terminals 1, 2.
On terminals 3, 4 it says 3-32 VDC.
I assume the VAC side can handle 120 VAC ok.
I plan on wiring it up this weekend. Was just reading this thread to make sure I wired it right.
Also found the directions to adjust the max temp. Plan on trying that once it's powered up.
Thanks for the info.
Leo

[Mike W1]

Both my REX's are FK02V-AN models and they're for the SSR outputs. The SSR is what switches the 120v to the pot so that's just what you want. Default on mine was the reverse action FWIW.

[Mike W1]

The Rex temperature can be set to a higher range under the secret menu. Hold set and left button for 3 seconds, then enter 0001 under the code menu.

Right now I got it to display a positive number, but it is showing an incorrect temperature. I will have to calibrate it some how. Maybe this is because of the unit is a 220v only version.

Are we talking about setting the SLH parameter here?? 400° C is plenty high for my uses but am curious about this. I notice there's an "Input Scope Table" with some codes for various K type TC's but haven't ever noticed where you would input those codes if indeed one has to do so.

[44magLeo]

Ok, I got my C100 wired up. Hooked up a ohm meter to the AC side to tell if the PID activates the SSR. It does.
When it first powers up the display shows 888 on both lines. It then changes to C04 on the top line, then changes to 999 on the top line and the K symbol on the second line.
I got instructions online from FM Franklin PTY.
When you push the set button it lets you set the temp. If you hold the set button it brings up a list of things. Some of the things on the list don't show up on my display. Some things on my display are not on the list.
On the list it shows the factory presets for the items on the list. Some of my values don't match the presets.
My unit lists these things,
AL1..at..50
ATU..at..0
P.. at..20, instructions call for 30
I..at..130,instructions call for 240
D..at..20, calls for 60
Ar..at..0 calls for 100
T ..at..40
LCK..at..o, calls for 0100
The ones on my unit that are not in the instructions are,
SoH.. at 999..
SC..at..1
oH..at..2
Does the 999 at start up and on the list as SoH mean it can be set to 999 degrees? It only reads degrees Celsius.
Also what are SC and oH?
It doesn't seem to want to turn on the AT, perhaps it needs the draw of a heating element before it will turn on. The ohm meter won't draw much current.
Just used it to tell if the PID would control the SSR, it does. With the TC in a cup of warm water and setting the temp to just above and below the water temp turned the SSR on/off. Just below turns the SSR on, just above turns it off.
If anyone can tell what some of this means, thank you.
I'll go read the link on PID's and how they work as well.
Leo

[Mike W1]

Ok, I got my C100 wired up. Hooked up a ohm meter to the AC side to tell if the PID activates the SSR. It does.
When it first powers up the display shows 888 on both lines. It then changes to C04 on the top line, then changes to 999 on the top line and the K symbol on the second line.
I got instructions online from FM Franklin PTY.
When you push the set button it lets you set the temp. If you hold the set button it brings up a list of things. Some of the things on the list don't show up on my display. Some things on my display are not on the list.
On the list it shows the factory presets for the items on the list. Some of my values don't match the presets.
My unit lists these things,
AL1..at..50
ATU..at..0
P.. at..20, instructions call for 30
I..at..130,instructions call for 240
D..at..20, calls for 60
Ar..at..0 calls for 100
T ..at..40
LCK..at..o, calls for 0100
The ones on my unit that are not in the instructions are,
SoH.. at 999..
SC..at..1
oH..at..2
Does the 999 at start up and on the list as SoH mean it can be set to 999 degrees? It only reads degrees Celsius.
Also what are SC and oH?
It doesn't seem to want to turn on the AT, perhaps it needs the draw of a heating element before it will turn on. The ohm meter won't draw much current.
Just used it to tell if the PID would control the SSR, it does. With the TC in a cup of warm water and setting the temp to just above and below the water temp turned the SSR on/off. Just below turns the SSR on, just above turns it off.
If anyone can tell what some of this means, thank you.
I'll go read the link on PID's and how they work as well.
Leo

I have 2 of those units (same numbers) and without going out and pulling the covers I only think mine were made in China but not sure of that. I'm going to PM you a text file of the settings of one of mine which might give you an idea or two. P, I, & D are set by the Autotune function. Get that ATU up on the parameter sequence and change it to "1" and then hit the SET button. When it's in autotune the AT indicator will flash till it's done. You'd probably want a load on it like your pot or a hotplate like you are thinking.

You have to access the 2nd set of parameters to ensure that your unit is set for a K type TC. They usually are ....but. That is where you get those various SL* parameters.

I've acquired a number of REX manuals and there's a little variation in them. On my sheet OH is 2 and SC is 0.

I have a feeling that those numbers and symbols you see on startup may be different on different C100's. If things don't work for you I'll record mine and see. Even the lock codes vary a bit from manual to manual.

Set your parameters to what the sheet says if your's differs from it and give it a try. You'll know more after you play with it a bit.

[Mike W1]

Checked both REX's startup sequences
Power ON
InP shows in PV screen first
°C K shows in SV screen

then goes to 400 in PV screen
and 0 in SV screen

then goes to basically room temp in PV
and the set value in SV screen

If the TC isn't hooked up it flashes FOUR
Zeros in the PV screen

[Mike W1]

Played with my unit today and came up with a few observations. The 400 in the opening sequence of mine means you cannot input a Set Value of more than 400° C, it won't allow you to. If for some reason you wanted that to be a higher value you can change it in the SLH parameter which is what I'd call the 3rd set. In the 1st set adjust LCK to 1000. Then when you hold SET & Shift key till CoD =1000 (0 on mine) appears you can arrow through the settings with the SET key. The 400 figure on mine wasn't too visible till I shifted to it and it could then be changed. .Didn't get the impression this changed anything on the PV, and suspect PV would have read a higher temperature if it detected it. Being 400 (752F) is higher than I'd ever set it I didn't check that part out. Changing SLH though does allow a higher input SV.

Also noted my units do not have the capability of setting the decimal places and confirmed that changing SL2 to a 1 will not make mine read in Fahrenheit. It's just not possible to do on mine, a FK02V-AN unit. A googled search also indicated that V is SSR output whereas a M would indicate relay output.

[44magLeo]

Ok, got my PID built, in an old cash box. Hooked it up to the pot. Used the bent wire trick to hold the TC. Holds tip of probe up off the bottom of pot and out from edge about 1/2 inch.
At first it would over shoot the set temp by a lot. Went over 400 *C, mine reads in *C not *F. No problem. as 370 *C is 698 *F.
I went into the settings and could only Change a few things. It is a cheap Chinese made unit. I could change the Ar setting, with it set to 5 it doesn't over shoot but once it reaches about 300*C it slows the heating, it starts to cycle the pot on/off.
Once I got to the SL settings it listed SL1, SL2, SL# and SL4, SL 4 is the only one that I could change, either 0 or 1.
MikeW1, one of what you sent was the same as I had. The others were different. Thanks for that. A lot of reading. It did help me better understand some of the things about PID's. I learned enough that the next one won't be so cheap.
I think my PID being a cheap unit is the reason I can't change the settings. It came in a kit for $12.99, with the PID, SSR and one of the very short TC's, I bought a longer TC, about 4 inches long, one as shown in other threads, has the coil spring strain relief. $2.48, And a heat sink, $1.98. Total $17.45, these all had free shipping. The heat sink came quickly, less than two weeks, The TC came about a week later, the PID took the longest. over 4 weeks.
Next time I get one I will spend a bit more and get one quicker.
The rest of the stuff I used to build with is stuff I had.
Next time I will try to find one that gets here quicker, even if I spend more for it. For now I'm pleased with how it operates. even the slow heat up isn't a problem, I set the PID up so I could just plug the pot into it. I can plug the pot straight into the wall, get it hot then hook in the PID.
I don't cast fast but the better temp control will help get more good bullets with less rejects.
Thanks for the help.
Leo

[Mike W1]

Really the only thing you probably had to change out of the box is the set temperature and let it autotune. Autotune will set the Ar according the my sheet. I'd put it back to 25 were it me and check it later on. Generally the only values it changes are the P, I & D.

Far as more expensive units, I have an Auber SYL-2352 and HAD a Mypin TA4-SNR. I really disliked that particular unit and got another REX. In all reality it controls things about as well as the Auber at 1/4 the cost.

Far as heat up time I wouldn't see how that would be a problem. Both my Lee 10# units get to full heat in right at 20 minutes whether they're hooked to the pot direct or through the PID.

[RP]

Man I been reading on PIDs for days now and after talking on the phone with a member that has built a few I ordered my parts man I hope all goes well. I am so glad we have so many members that are willing to help out others figure out how to get theirs going odds are I will be asking a lot of ? and sweating the build until its up and running. Wife been laughing at me since I been thinking of building one since 2014 with notes research and shopping. I just hate to buy something just to put on the shelf.

[dikman]

Don't sweat it, they're really not that hard to build and get going (just sounds like it is!).

[No_1]

There should be no worries RP. I built one some time back and I am not an electrician. There is lots of good folks here that will help you troubleshoot it once it is assembled if you can take a good picture of it to post.