Question about rem-age barrel

[shawnba67]

Can a rem 700 factory barrel be turned into a rem age barrel? I think I want to make my 243 a switch barrel rifle. But would like to keep the good shooting 243 barrel I have. Then add others Later. Also want to add a 30-284 to my short action

[lefty o]

i wont say positively yes, but i believe the chamber area of the factory barrel may have enough meat to be threaded for a barrel nut. i know pac-nor will set up barrels like that, and supply a barrel nut. i do not believe it is the same thread as a savage though.

[country gent]

A friend has a 700 rem set up with the barrel nut and it does work. His is 6 br and hes putting a new barrel on it. When I rebarreled my savage we shouldered it and did away with the nut.

[Nobade]

Why do people want to put barrel nuts on 700s to make them switch barrel rifles? If you do that, the headspace is never exactly the same twice. If the individual barrels are simply fitted properly, they will always turn into the same location and work just fine. If you have the capability to turn and thread a barrel for a nut, why not just fit it right to begin with and swap them out when you feel like it?

The Savage can do this because the back end of the barrel is flat and so is the nose of the bolt. The Remington barrel is counterbored and the bolt nose fits inside that. If the chamber needs to be deepened to make the headspace come out right, the bolt will hit the bottom of the counterbore before it gets to the headspace gauge and give a false reading. It is far better to make sure your barrel is machined correctly to fit, so you don't have problems like this when swapping barrels. Plus you won't need to inlet your stock for a barrel nut.

Just my 2 cents.

-Nobade

[shawnba67]

Why do people want to put barrel nuts on 700s to make them switch barrel rifles? If you do that, the headspace is never exactly the same twice. If the individual barrels are simply fitted properly, they will always turn into the same location and work just fine. If you have the capability to turn and thread a barrel for a nut, why not just fit it right to begin with and swap them out when you feel like it?

The Savage can do this because the back end of the barrel is flat and so is the nose of the bolt. The Remington barrel is counterbored and the bolt nose fits inside that. If the chamber needs to be deepened to make the headspace come out right, the bolt will hit the bottom of the counterbore before it gets to the headspace gauge and give a false reading. It is far better to make sure your barrel is machined correctly to fit, so you don't have problems like this when swapping barrels. Plus you won't need to inlet your stock for a barrel nut.

Just my 2 cents.

-Nobade
Most of us dont have the capability to turn and thread,hence the end user installation with only one $40 special tool. I agree your way is better, but the other is good enough and easier.

[lefty o]

i agree , for most people that want to do this, it is about convenience. im not big on switch barrel anything, but if i were, i'd do the barrel nut.

[country gent]

The reason I went with out the nut on my savage was two fold. I was putting a heavy pac nor barrel on in 6.5 mm. I feel the shouldered joint is much stronger/solider ( when all is square and true) another issue is the barrel stub is 1.060 if memory serves me. There is stub ahead of the nut so the heavy barrel 1 3/8" dia at breech is bieng supported on the stub dia rather than the shouldered 1 3/8" dia. WHile the barrel nut has proven out Is it as solid as the shouldered barrel locked tight?

[lefty o]

absolutely rock solid. but as you mentioned though, the barrel nut determines max diameter of the barrel.