What Do You Use To Box Up a DIY PID Temperature Controller?

[Yodogsandman]

What do you use to box up a DIY PID temperature controller? I was going to use an old ammo box but it seems like overkill.

[slim1836]

I gutted a power supply out of a computer and used the box.

Slim

[VHoward]

I built a wooden box out of 1/8 inch plywood and some 1/2 inch square stock.

[JASON4X4]

I used a gray outdoor electrical box.

[MrWolf]

Computer power supply

[Nueces]

Try a google image search for "electronic project box"

[Handloader109]

computer power supply box. Had one laying around. Ammo Box was second choice.

[500MAG]

Project box from radio shack

[Steve Steven]

I also used a computer power supply for the enclosure. I kept the fan, and bought a cheap 1 amp charger from ebay to power it.

I used the HP input plug for the power in, and made a strain relief for the output cord. I fit a MYPIN controller, a 25amp SSD relay on a heat sink, a jack for a Type K thermocouple and kept the choke on the AC input. That's a lot of stuff!

Steve

[Yodogsandman]

I guess part of my problem is that I don't have the parts, yet. So, I have no idea how much room they'll take up. Anyone got any photos of their setup?

[CGT80]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=34

I bought all of my parts from this place. The case wasn't what I would call cheap, and the one I chose barely had room for the SSR inside of it, but it looks great and worked out.

[dikman]

A computer power supply measures maybe 5" wide x 6" deep x 4" high, should give you a rough idea of what's needed. I used a couple of old printer switch boxes, but it was a bit squeezy getting it all in. If you look for posts referring to PIDs, there are quite a few with photos of different cases people have used. Doesn't have to be anything fancy.

[el34]

Wood- 2x3 sides, 3/8th plywood top and back, pegboard with the holes removed for the bottom.
Aluminum- front panel covered with printout made with Excel graphics for labeling (in a sheet protector).

The height is to get the spout at eye level, the width is for stability. Plenty of room inside.

Check the left side in the lower right pic-

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[lancem]

I'm going to have to do that one of these days... Right now I have the SSR screwed to a block of aluminum, and the PID just sort of wherever it ends up on the bench, no box, no cover. I know very dangerous, very dangerous...

[Springfield]

Went to Fry's and bought an aluminum project box.

[OuchHot!]

very nice el34!

[el34]

very nice el34!

Thanks! It is just a wood box. Before the trim and paint and top tray and Excel labeling and the green light I added-

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[Yodogsandman]

very nice el34!
Yes it is. Very handy, el34. Nice, finished look! Thanks for showing a photo of it, too. I'd also wondered about using a duplex outlet... and you did it.

[el34]

I'd also wondered about using a duplex outlet... and you did it.
It's one outlet and one switch, got it at Home Depot. You can see it in post 13.

[dikman]

One advantage of using wood - it's much easier to work with!

Btw, it looks like you have a PID bypass wired in?

[Garyshome]

Thanks for all the ideas!

[el34]

One advantage of using wood - it's much easier to work with!

Btw, it looks like you have a PID bypass wired in?
Yep. But I've never used it. Just last night for the first time I set the switch to OFF (breaks connection to the pot outlet) to see how slowly the pot cooled. The controller was still on. Then I realized I could have unplugged the pot or turned its knob to minimum, don't need no stinkin' switch.

[CountryBoy19]

I just bent up some scrap AL into a project box like enclosure (after making the various cutous), welded the corners, tapped some holes for a cover plate, and it was done. The box is the heat-sink for the SSR, I have a duplex outlet and K-type thermocouple outlet in the back, on/off switch and PID in the front, and salvaged a 3-wire power cord from a fan motor to plug the PID into the wall. I don't think anybody looking at my PID would believe I made it (unless they know me and know that I pretty much make everything myself). My thermocouple wire and power cord for my pot are zip-tied together and I just plug them both into the PID when I'm ready to go.

[hermans]

Old computer power supply, you get them for free. Did the cut out's with my Dremel, piece of cake.

[Yodogsandman]

I just bent up some scrap AL into a project box like enclosure (after making the various cutous), welded the corners, tapped some holes for a cover plate, and it was done. The box is the heat-sink for the SSR, I have a duplex outlet and K-type thermocouple outlet in the back, on/off switch and PID in the front, and salvaged a 3-wire power cord from a fan motor to plug the PID into the wall. I don't think anybody looking at my PID would believe I made it (unless they know me and know that I pretty much make everything myself). My thermocouple wire and power cord for my pot are zip-tied together and I just plug them both into the PID when I'm ready to go.
I'd sure like to see a photo of that! I have some sheet metal and some old ventilation flat stock.

[dikman]

el, I put bypass switches in my first two enclosures. The first time I used one I put it in bypass and left it to heat up (Lee pot). I came back a little while later and looked at the temp on the PID, which was still active as I can use the T/C to monitor the temp, and it was reading nearly 900*F :eek:! I discovered that the Lee pot heats up quicker than the RCBS and can get things very hot!

In the interests of safety I decided that I didn't need a bypass switch.

[el34]

el, I put bypass switches in my first two enclosures. The first time I used one I put it in bypass and left it to heat up (Lee pot). I came back a little while later and looked at the temp on the PID, which was still active as I can use the T/C to monitor the temp, and it was reading nearly 900*F :eek:! I discovered that the Lee pot heats up quicker than the RCBS and can get things very hot!

In the interests of safety I decided that I didn't need a bypass switch.

My switch is center off and selects what gets connected to the pot output- 110v coming out of the SSR (PID) or nothing (OFF) or 110v from the line cord (ON). It's the control freak in me but this time it didn't give me anything useful.

[edctexas]

I was lazy and used the Auberins box which had the hole for their PID precut. I fooled myself because their box was steel. I should have used an aluminum project box. I did raid an old computer supply for the input cord, socket, fuse holder, and on/off switch.

The box I did use has room for a second PID. Eventually I will control the hot plate for mould warming. I sanded a smooth spot on the inside of the case and heatsinked the SSR to the case using computer heatsink compound. Checking the SSR and the case with Infrared Temp gives only a few degrees over room temp. It was a fun project and super useful. Very grateful for the on-line suggestions here.
Ed C

[CountryBoy19]

I'd sure like to see a photo of that! I have some sheet metal and some old ventilation flat stock.
My wife is out of town this week with the computer. I'll see if I can figure it out from the tablet thing-a-ma-bob...

[chumly2071]

I used an 8x6x4 box from Amazon that was like $8. It is steel, and the flat cover covers the 8x6 profile. I can't remember the brand offhand, but is an import that they carry many sizes of. It worked well for my control, and had enough room to work my big hands in.

[Walter Laich]

here is a short web page I wrote about mine
has some pictures of the completed box
Used the one from Auberins but it's pricey and the SSR is on outside of box at rear
.
http://home.comcast.net/~walterlaich/pid.htm (http://home.comcast.net/~walterlaich/pid.htm)

[htuong95]

Here is mine that I am currently working on. I bought the psu from goodwill for $2.50. Added some scrap metal to cover up the unwanted cutouts then painted the case with black bed liner paint.

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[chumly2071]

The one I used was $10.40 when I bought it, but is now like $25 plus shipping.

This 8x8x4 (http://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-JB-3957-Junction-Lift-off/dp/B005UP9UII/ref=sr_1_17?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1411255699&sr=8-17&keywords=bud+junction+box+steel) is $12.

This 6x6x3 (http://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-JB-3945-Junction-Lift-off/dp/B005UP9QBY/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1411255699&sr=8-29&keywords=bud+junction+box+steel)-1/2 is $9.65

Both from Amazon with my Prime account.

[htuong95]

Finished mine yesterday. I've baked the case in the oven at 250 degrees for 20 minutes. I will be installing a female type thermocouple connector to the back and a 110v red led to the front once the items come in the mail. Also, I will be replacing that Rex C100 with a MYPIN TA4 soon.

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[el34]

Finished mine yesterday.
Looks good! While you're waiting on that controller you can mount that press!

So what are you going to cast?

[Yodogsandman]

htuong95, That looks very professional! What are the dimensions?

I'm still waiting on that slow boat from China, my fault...I thought the 40A SSR was included with the heat sink. Still searching yard sales and stuff for something usable for the box, I'm not nearly as handy as el34 is. I might just go back to the milsurp ammo box idea...it was only $5.

I have a 2M long, SS, K-type t/c with 4" probe. Can I cut it to attach a plug-in connector to make it removable/interchangeable.

I still need to order a lighted on/off switch, 120V receptacle, wire-thru grommets, indicator lights, K type t/c male and female plug and a terminal strip block. Any favorite online stores for these?

[el34]

I have a 2M long, SS, K-type t/c with 4" probe. Can I cut it to attach a plug-in connector to make it removable/interchangeable.

Sure! And use a piece of the leftover to connect the box connector to the PID controller. If you use 'regular' wire you'll introduce an error. When you do this keep the wire colors lined up (red to red etc), it matters.


I still need to order a lighted on/off switch, 120V receptacle, wire-thru grommets, indicator lights, K type t/c male and female plug and a terminal strip block. Any favorite online stores for these?

Connectors that are actually correct for type K TC's-
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7_43

TCCON is with a panel mount female, TCCON2 is for inline disconnects. Polarity matters- red is the industry standard for the neg wire.

What lights are you planning? You can hook up a NEON (120v, Radio Shack) light across your output socket to show power is being sent to the pot. Any others will be driven by the controller alarms- have you already checked your alarm outputs and what kind of lights you can use?

[htuong95]

The box is from a standard PSU. The dimension are 5 7/8" x 3 7/8" x 5 1/2". I got all my parts from ebay.

I will be casting 9mm soon. This will be my first time casting. Later I will move on to.308, .223, and .40. Should be fun.

[Yodogsandman]

el34, I like the TCCON but, the TCCON-3 would be easier to cutout the female panel mount connector with just a drill bit. Also, an extra male connector for extra probe for whatever.

A light indicated on/off switch and a pot-on light to start. I haven't hooked up the PID to power, yet. I hoped the alarms had indicator lights.

htuong95, thanks for the dims, wonder if I should go a hair bigger for my fat fingers to get in there.

[el34]

el34, I like the TCCON but, the TCCON-3 would be easier to cutout the female panel mount connector with just a drill bit. Also, an extra male connector for extra probe for whatever.

A light indicated on/off switch and a pot-on light to start. I haven't hooked up the PID to power, yet. I hoped the alarms had indicator lights.

htuong95, thanks for the dims, wonder if I should go a hair bigger for my fat fingers to get in there.

Agree! The round panel mount would be considerably easier to mount.

What is the complete model name of your controller?

[Yodogsandman]

MyPin Universal Digital PID Temperature Controller SSR Control output TA4-SNR 1 alarm

[el34]

MyPin Universal Digital PID Temperature Controller SSR Control output TA4-SNR 1 alarm

As I recall, you can still program alarm 2 and a little LED on the front will respond. It just doesn't have the few parts inside to create a connection to the outside world. Those little front LEDs are really small.

[Yodogsandman]

That's fine, I doubt I'll be too mesmerized by the pretty lights, anyhow. Thanks for the info! I need all my concentration for casting.

I'm hoping to run my pot at a lower temperature for slightly larger boolits on a few of my molds. Mostly for larger noses on some bore riders. I don't want to have to resort to using lino or other harder alloys.

[el34]

That's fine, I doubt I'll be too mesmerized by the pretty lights, anyhow. Thanks for the info! I need all my concentration for casting.

I'm hoping to run my pot at a lower temperature for slightly larger boolits on a few of my molds. Mostly for larger noses on some bore riders. I don't want to have to resort to using lino or other harder alloys.

I cast up some 452-230 the other day and found 620F was a happy temp using the Lee 6-cavity. The alloy I've always mixed is 12.5BHN and has done well in my 1911 and now the PCd ones do excellent in both my 45's. Best I've ever shot, including with factory, and no leading.

[Yodogsandman]

Thanks, I'll try 620F, when I can tell where it is.

I don't PC to prevent leading. I've only experienced a leading problem once, when the 50/50 alox lube I was using was found to have way too much alox.
I'm trying ESPC'ing to get more velocity with accuracy in rifles. Getting a bit discouraged on that front. I've been able to get about 250 FPS more but, accuracy has suffered. There is a solution...just can't find it , yet.

I forgot, I'll also need inline fuses.

[Yodogsandman]

I've ordered all the parts I'll need now. I can get wire and connectors locally.

Also, I found a possible PID box. Cost was $0. It was inside a freebee metal desk I picked up last spring. The desks make great reloading benches (my third). It's an old, metal card file box complete with alphabetical cards. The box is 5 1/4" x 6 1/4" x 8 1/2" with a flip top. It has a little rust so, I've got to decide on cleaning it up, converting it and painting or PC'ing it. Or trashing the idea and finding something else, lots of yard sales this weekend!