Which Russian?

[bigbear]

I just bought 300rds 7.62x54R ammo,oops! I don't have a rifle for the round. Never did that before but it seemed like a good idea at the time (6a.m.):roll: So I guess I need to look for a rifle for it. I like the look of the the sniper Russians? Suggestions on what to look for/look out for. I guess I should look for brass and dies too. I would guess brass not easy to come by. Ammo prices going up so quickly of late FASTER THAN MY STOCKS FOR SURE!!! so I am a sucker when I see a good deal on ammo.Thganks for any tips.

[35 Whelen]

I ordered one of J&G Sales $59.95 specials the other day and WOW!! That sucker was in nearly perfect condition!The bore WAS in perfect condition! For a $10, they'll hand pick one..even hand pick the bore. That'd be the way I'd go.
35W

[jack19512]

I just bought 300rds 7.62x54R ammo,oops! I don't have a rifle for the round.






I assume it is surplus ammo and if it is whatever rifle you decide on do not be disappointed if the rifle appears to be inaccurate with this ammo. I have shot a lot of the 7.62X54 surplus ammo and some of it was not accurate out of my M/N's. I would probably start with a 91/30 but there are several to choose from. I should add also if it is surplus it is probably corrosive and cleaning after firing should be performed.

[trickyasafox]

I have a m38 and a m44- I prefer the 38. its pretty handy. AIMSURPLUS.com has privi partisan reasonably priced.

dies come up used pretty frequently on the used market as well :)

[Shepherd2]

I've got all the Russians and like the 91/30s best. I've gone thru a couple cases of the Czech surplus ammo with good results accuracy wise.

Graf and Sons has brass cases for the 7.62.54R.

[nicholst55]

RCBS dies for this cartridge are a standard item so they're not terribly expensive. Graf's has brass at a reasonable price, although I have heard some reports of out-of-spec primer pockets with this brass.

Classic Arms in NC has some nice rifles; I bought one of their 'rifles of the day' some time ago and got a very nice pre-war hex-receiver Tula with a mint bore. I must confess, I haven't shot it yet though. Once it warms up a bit I'll take it to the range with an assortment of ammo - heavy ball, light ball, Wolf Gold, and some handloads.

[jack19512]

Once it warms up a bit I'll take it to the range with an assortment of ammo - heavy ball, light ball, Wolf Gold, and some handloads.






I have a M38 that shot so bad with the surplus ammo I was ready to get rid of it, this was at a time when I just started handloading and now this M38 is one of my most accurate rifles. It loves the Barnes Tripple Shock bullets.

Here is a 3 shot group from my M38 and if I remember correctly it was from a distance of about 70 yards. Before handloading for this rifle it would shoot around an 8-10 in group using the surplus ammo from this same distance.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a63/jack19512/M38reloads.jpg

[Ricochet]

Yes, all surplus 7.62x54R is corrosive.

[bigbear]

Yes, all surplus 7.62x54R is corrosive.

So final scrub with Windex, then oil?

[Ricochet]

I recommend using something with water in it to dissolve and flush out the corrosive potassium chloride produced by the primers. Windex is one possibility. I don't use it. I use soapy water to clean and rinse with plain tap water, and I use ammonia for copper removal when needed. I'm also careful to keep it all moving only from breech to muzzle, not wanting to drag salt-contaminated solution back down the bore I've cleaned.

[35 Whelen]

So final scrub with Windex, then oil?

It's really not rocket science. I just keep a cup of 50/50 water/ammonia on the floor by my work bench. After a session with corrosive ammo, I run a couple of wet patches through the barrel then dry it and clean as usual.

And for what it's worth, a year or so ago I did a "nail test" with some 7.62x54r. This is performed by driving a few nails in a board after sanding any coating off the heads( I used 3 nails per load), pulling the bullets and dumping the powder some corrosive ammo, inserting the heads of the nails into the muzzle and popping the primer. The corrosive priming compound will coat the head of the nail and you can get an idea of how corrosive the ammo is by how quickly the nail begins to rust. I tested Czech and Hungarian surplus ammo and also did the same test with some commercially loaded, boxer primed ammo. Ironically, the "non-corrosive" commercial stuff showed the greatest formation of rust...which was not much at all. Even a year or so later, the nails tested with the surplus corrosive ammunition shows little more than minor surface rust.
35W

[Three44s]

My M38 likes Winchester 150 power points ...... hits golf balls at 45 yards with the supplied irons.

My 91/30 shoot better than that!

Viva Mosin Nagants!!!

Three 44s

[dmftoy1]

Graf's has brass at a reasonable price, although I have heard some reports of out-of-spec primer pockets with this brass.


I'm curious what type of "out of spec"? Loose primer fit, not deep enough, too deep?

I just picked up a batch from Grafs and it appears to work fine in my M44 BUT I did notice that using Winchester LR primer's they're quite a bit deeper seated then what I normally see on my "American" brass. (.308, 30-06, etc.)

Just curious.

[Newtire]

I'm curious what type of "out of spec"? Loose primer fit, not deep enough, too deep?

I just picked up a batch from Grafs and it appears to work fine in my M44 BUT I did notice that using Winchester LR primer's they're quite a bit deeper seated then what I normally see on my "American" brass. (.308, 30-06, etc.)

Just curious.

Only problem I have had with any Russian brass was the stuff marked "Win" but reportedly made by someone else for Winchester was that the primer pockets were too shallow for Large Rifle Primers.

[Ricochet]

Prvi Partizan reportedly makes that for them. Also for Graf's and Wolf Gold.

[nicholst55]

That's what I've heard; primer pockets too shallow, and some say too small in diameter for US-made primers. It can be remedied by reaming and uniforming, but it shouldn't need to be remedied when it says W-W on the headstamp.

[dmftoy1]

Well FWIW the brass I got from Graf's was perfect in terms of seating 'effort' the only thing different that I can say is that with LR primers they are seated deeper than what I'm used to. Doesn't appear to affect function/accuracy in any way.

Regards,
Dave

[nicholst55]

Well FWIW the brass I got from Graf's was perfect in terms of seating 'effort' the only thing different that I can say is that with LR primers they are seated deeper than what I'm used to. Doesn't appear to affect function/accuracy in any way.

Regards,
Dave

I got my brass from Graf's, so hopefully I'll have the same luck with it that you did, Dave. I sure hope so, anyway! :roll:

[Johnch]

I have shot a few hundred Sellier & Bellot rounds for the brass
They had tight and slightly shallow primer pockets
But I reamed them

I much preferr them to the perfict looking Graff brass

Not that the Graff brass is bad ( 8 or more loads , anealed after the 3 loading , 2 lost cases out of 200 )
I just am getting better groups and case life with the Sellier & Bellot brass
Some of it has been loaded 14 times and never lost a case ...............OK I steped on and crushed a few

John

[Buckshot]

And for what it's worth, a year or so ago I did a "nail test" with some 7.62x54r. This is performed by driving a few nails in a board after sanding any coating off the heads( I used 3 nails per load), pulling the bullets and dumping the powder some corrosive ammo, inserting the heads of the nails into the muzzle and popping the primer. Ironically, the "non-corrosive" commercial stuff showed the greatest formation of rust...which was not much at all. 35W

Try this. Drive a couple nails into a piece of plywood so you have a good amount of the nail exposed (pointy end). Best are common bright finish nails. Disassemble a round and up-end it over a nail. Use a punch to set off the primer then remove the case. Take a look at the nail the next day. It'll be orange :-)

.................Buckshot