Stockmakers Opinons on This Stock Please !!

[RustyReel]

Richards Microfit recently updated their close out bargain list and I ordered a couple of stocks from them. One was the maple stock in question. It was a factory second and I was very surprised at the grade of wood when I pulled it out of the box. I was also surprised to see it had a limbsaver recoil pad installed. Has a couple of obvious flaws which I can deal with but I have a question about the grain flow in the grip area. My intention was to use this on a future 458x2 project. Not a terrible thumper but when loaded warm it can have a bit of a kick. I have always heard that grain should flow horizontally thru the grip area. Grain in the grip area on this stock seems to be all over the place. My question is "is it serviceable" and would you use it on something like a 458x2?? Advice would be appreciated.

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[leftiye]

It may just be me, but I can't tell which way the grain is running. FWIW maple splits easily even with plain grain that runs parallel if stressed the wrong way. It actually might be stronger (don't quote me) with the curl. The manufacturer might be the best expert on this.

[chsparkman]

That is some beautiful wood. I've always wanted a maple stock. I don't know about how strong that grain would be, but I wonder if it could be strengthened using a threaded rod and nuts, much like the way maple butcher blocks are made? Just a random thought...no experience here.

[MBTcustom]

Anything with heavy recoil should be stocked with slow growth, straight grain. The only place you can allow some fancy stuff is in the buttstock well rear of the grip area.
You want the grain to flow through the wrist of the stock as smoothly and straightly as possible, as that is a major weak point.
However, if you build this stock for yourself, your not going to go suing anybody if it breaks, so you might just give it a try. If it breaks on down the road, you can just get another one.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Another idea might be to fix the problem before it rears it's ugly head and you waste all your finishing time.

Drill a hole lengthwise thru the stock and wrist and Epoxy about a 3/8-1/2" metal rod in there.

Any metal will do. I'd rough up the OD of the rod so that the glue has a place to grab onto.

Then it won't matter what the grain is doing.

Randy

[seaboltm]

Another idea might be to fix the problem before it rears it's ugly head and you waste all your finishing time.

Drill a hole lengthwise thru the stock and wrist and Epoxy about a 3/8-1/2" metal rod in there.

Any metal will do. I'd rough up the OD of the rod so that the glue has a place to grab onto.

Then it won't matter what the grain is doing.

Randy

I have used all thread, so you don't have to worry about the glue attaching to the steel rod. Drill the hole, insert all thread, then pour Brownells bedding compound into the hole until filled. Done and Done.

[M-Tecs]

I always use aluminum threaded rod and Devcon on thumpers or thin wrists. I have also used knurled 7075 rod but get the epoxy in with the threaded road is easier for me

http://www.metalbythefoot.com/onlinestore-3/aluminum-threaded-rod.html

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=aluminum+threaded+rod

[RustyReel]

Reinforcing the area was my first thought but wanted some informed opinions first. Didn't want to screw it up and make it even weaker. I'm assuming we are talking about running the bolt in the center, from inside the action inletting in this sort of direction??

115759

When I've made stock repairs in the past I have used stainless steel bolts from my local hardware store with the heads cut off. That's probably what I will do here unless someone thinks that is a real bad idea. I had already planned to do something similar in the barrel channel near the forend to reinforce a knot/check in that area. It is a great looking stock and I would like to be able to salvage it for something.

Thanks for your help!!

[DLCTEX]

If you are not leaving any of the bolt exposed then no need for stainless. just coat all metal with the bedding compound, it will be sealed from moisture.

[lefty o]

the grain of that stock is running pretty close to straight through the grip. that nice looking stuff swirling around and running different directions is not the grain of the wood.

[xs hedspace]

Hard to tell direction, but if you drill the reinforcing hole, pour epoxy into the hole, then insert the all thread while twisting, so excess epoxy oozes out, and air bubbles are forced out. Cut a slot for a screwdriver in the end of the rod for twisting while inserting.

[Mk42gunner]

Reinforcing the area was my first thought but wanted some informed opinions first. Didn't want to screw it up and make it even weaker. I'm assuming we are talking about running the bolt in the center, from inside the action inletting in this sort of direction??

115759

When I've made stock repairs in the past I have used stainless steel bolts from my local hardware store with the heads cut off. That's probably what I will do here unless someone thinks that is a real bad idea. I had already planned to do something similar in the barrel channel near the forend to reinforce a knot/check in that area. It is a great looking stock and I would like to be able to salvage it for something.

Thanks for your help!!
rusty,

A 12" or longer drill is your friend when trying to reinforce the wrist of a rifle stock. It is hard to get the right angle and still have room for the electric drill without the long bit.

I have repaired the broken wrist of an 1899 Krag with this idea. Take your time and be sure the drill doesn't come out the side of the stock, this is supposed to be a hidden repair/ reinforcement.

As to whether the stock is suitable for a .458x2", hard to tell from pictures.

Robert

[Reg]

Figure and grain flow can be and often are two different things, one has to look close sometime to tell what the actual grain flow is. Very difficult to tell from the pics but it does appear that you have what Linden called a musket grain flowing thru the grip area and in that case a glassed in reinforcing bolt might be a good idea.
If the figure in the rest of the stock matches the grip that is one great looking piece of wood.

[RustyReel]

Guys...thanks for the advice and opinions. The grain flow is very difficult to determine, even after a bit of sanding. I've decided to use the stock on a .244 Rem build instead of the 458x2 so I don't think it will take quite the pounding I originally anticipated. Plus, I hope to do a good job of glass bedding the rifle at the recoil lug and relieving he stock a bit at the tang. The barrel channel is not a real close match to my .244 barrel but I think the lighter recoiling caliber is a wiser choice. After I get it closer to final sanding and can see the actual grain better I'll decide about the reinforcing rod/bolt. It is a VERY nice looking stock (IMHO) with a combination of both birds eye and fiddleback. I'll post a few pics when I get it finished....but it may be a little while. Thanks again.........

[flounderman]

To start with, what kind of maple are we talking about? The west coast, Tiger maple, is a light weight wood and does not have the density of the eastern maple. The eastern hard maple will weigh more than a walnut stock, has a wavy grain and is hard. I don't see the need to doing anything like glassing a bolt in it, unless you intend to slim the grip down considerably. Unless you use it for a club, I don't see it breaking. The flaw in the fore end is what made it a second, not the grip. I always preferred to work with seconds because they had better figure. I wouldn't do anything to the fore end but float the barrel