Beroen's reloading questions thread.

[beroen]

I hate to make a few threads for the questions that come up so I am making one thread for all my questions that come up.

And thanks in advance!

I pretty much have my mind set on a dillion press 550 or 650 that being said I have questions/advice needed about the other things needed.

I know that starting on a progressive is generally not a great idea but I have been shooting muzzleloaders since I was 5 and have full knowledge of what bad loads can do from lack of attention patients. I also tend to learn almost everything about something before I even start and am extremely Anal.
And I have a veteran realoaders that I know will help me when I actually get everything.


The calibers I want to reload are. .223.
, .300SAV,
.9mm and .45acp

[beroen]

My first question is about case prep stations.

I want to do. 223/5.56 so I will need to hog out primer crimps what is a good case center for that that is good for bulk process and I won't ever want to replace.


There is a lot of options it seems but I have no clue on witch ones are best.

[M-Tecs]

My first question is about case prep stations.

I want to do. 223/5.56 so I will need to hog out primer crimps what is a good case center for that that is good for bulk process and I won't ever want to replace.

Super Swage 600 http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600

If money is not an issue this is by far the best primer pocket swager. http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23877/catid/1/Super_1050 IMHO best progressive on the market but not the best choice for your first progressive.

[beroen]

Super Swage 600 http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600
Cool so You can actually swage the pockets out also I just learned something new.

That seems like a cleaner easier way than hogging out with a case prep station. I imagine as with most dillion products the case falure rate is fairly low. Like a short prime on cases prepared with it?

[M-Tecs]

Only issue with the Super Swage is on 223 if you over swage you can compress the primer pocket.

RCBS has this http://www.midwayusa.com/product/235832/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo-2 and http://www.brownells.com/reloading/case-preparation/primer-pocket-tools/reamers-swagers/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-bench-tool-prod54151.aspx. Reports I have read claim Dillon is nicer.

I had a Super Swage 600 until I purchased a pair of Dillon 1050's.

Depending on volume you can use anything from a pocket knife to a 1050.

[beroen]

......

[Cmm_3940]

If you don't care to spend the $300 for a Dillon swager, you can get a reamer bit and put it in your cordless drill. Hornady makes a nice one. You can also chuck up a case deburring tool and use that. Shooting .223 in an AR, I find I lose the brass long before I have to worry about the primer pockets wearing out. The same is true for .45ACP.

That being said, I use both. The SS-600 is a very nice tool. Every so often I run into an oddball headstamp the needs a hit with the reamer even after going through the swager. Some brass can also benefit from having the pockets squared up using a uniformer. Again, just get the bit and put it in your drill. I've never seen the point of buying one of those fancy motorized case prep stations that just do the exact same thing for more $$.

[M-Tecs]

Have not used this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPaf3RqoM3o and http://www.ebay.com/itm/G-S-Custom-primer-pocket-swager-uniformer-for-Dillon-XL650-223-308-9mm-45-/321512054811?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4adb9ca01b

[beroen]

Cmm_3940

As far as I understand almost all. 223. 5.56 has case stretch to the point of needing to be trimmed almost every time correct?

I thought there was case prep stations that had trimmers built in but is that usually a separate piece of equipment?

[M-Tecs]

If you don't care to spend the $300 for a Dillon swager, .

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/3086

Price:
$101.99Prices include shipping!

[Cmm_3940]

Cmm_3940

As far as I understand almost all. 223. 5.56 has case stretch to the point of needing to be trimmed almost every time correct?

I thought there was case prep stations that had trimmers built in but is that usually a separate piece of equipment?

Trim frequency varies based on how hot you load them and the headstamp of the brass. You will want to trim any brass that is new to you the first time you load it, even fresh factory brass and once-fired brass, since consistency varies quite a bit from headstamp to headstamp and lot to lot. I find that while many do not need trimmed at all, many need trimmed quite a bit. You should then at least check the length after each firing; they may or may not need trimmed. I find it quicker to just run them all through the trimmer than to measure each one.

There are dozens of ways to do the actual trimming, ranging from dead simple to elaborate. Trimming methodologies have been discussed here ad nauseam many times. Check out the forum search feature, you will find it helpful :)

FWIW, I use the RCBS Trim-pro with the optional 3-way cutter head. Trims, deburrs, and chamfers in one step. For doing large batches of brass, take off the crank handle and attach your cordless drill.

[Cmm_3940]

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/3086

Price:
$101.99Prices include shipping!





OK, the are cheaper than I remember. I got mine many years ago.

BTW, Listen to what this guy has to say; He has been doing this for a while and knows a thing or two. :bigsmyl2:

[beroen]

To properly set up a dillon XL650 for another caliber I will need a conversion kit and a set of dies right?

Or Will some conversion kit parts interchange between caliber?

I assume it is nice to have dies already on there own shellplate does that save some tuning time when switching caliber?

[M-Tecs]

To properly set up a dillon XL650 for another caliber I will need a conversion kit and a set of dies right?

Or Will some conversion kit parts interchange between caliber?

I assume it is nice to have dies already on there own shellplate does that save some tuning time when switching caliber?

Yes some conversion kit parts interchange between calibers. Dillon sells the parts individually http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/XL650_Caliber_Conversion_Kit_Individual_Parts-8-50.html

Part charts
http://gunwiki.net/pub/Gunwiki/RefDillon650CaliberConversions/Dillon650CaliberConversions.pdf

http://gunwiki.net/Gunwiki/RefDillon650CaliberConversions

On a 243 to 308 the only thing required would be a powder funnel. On a 45 acp to 308 you would need a powder funnel and case feed adapter.

If using the casefeed you need the correct size, small pistol, larger pistol, small rifle, large rifle or mag. rifle.

Going from 223 to 45 acp you need the complete kit.

300 Savage would be the 308 kit.

[Duckiller]

Based on Your Questions get a GOOD single stage press. RCBS makes a nice tool that removes crimps for large and small primers. You only have to do it once. Forester and Lyman make case trimmers. Not a fun task but once it is set up you do a bunch. RCBS X-dies eliminates repeated trimming. Once you learn what you are doing a single stage press can produce much ammo in lots of 50 rds . With a progressive press you are relying on the machine to do everything right. It doesn't always happen that way. With a single stage press you NEED to look in the case at every step. Catches many errors of omission as well as comission. Speed doesn't count in this hobby, accuracy does. Good luck!

[Wayne Smith]

"Speed doesn't count in this hobby, accuracy does" Engrave that on your mind. Over and over again.
You obviously are an experienced shooter and a completely inexperienced reloader. One does not translate to the other. The problem isn't poor judgment, such as result in poor loads and explosions, it is mistakes, simple, stupid, avoidable mistakes in set-up, in the use of the equipment, and in processes. The slower and more deliberate you go at the beginning the quicker you will catch those stupid mistakes that we all make as we are learning a new skill. This is the issue. Agreed, as an experienced shooter you have proven your judgment. That is not the issue here.

[beroen]

Would this kit and a set of .300SAV dies get me started? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6?vs=1

I already have some spent brass and I could have a friend clean it for me. He will probably be the guy giving me a lesson he told me he would at the LGS yesterday.

I just don't want to spend $300+ on a SS kit when I know how fast I learn and how I will end up buying a progressive.

I probably will like to do the 300SAV loads on a SS any way so I can work up/try some different loads easier.

[beroen]

Would this kit and a set of .300SAV dies get me started? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6?vs=1

I already have some spent brass and I could have a friend clean it for me. He will probably be the guy giving me a lesson he told me he would at the LGS yesterday.

I just don't want to spend $300+ on a SS kit when I know how fast I learn and how I will end up buying a progressive.

I probably will like to do the 300SAV loads on a SS any way so I can work up/try some different loads easier.

[Wayne Smith]

You would be better off in the long run getting the Classic Cast press. It will last you a lifetime and probably your children as well. You will always find a use for the press, from dealing with individual primers to sizing a few cases sometime. Pick your buddies brain for what else you will need - powder measure, powder scale, trimmer, etc. Most kits have things you don't need and questionable quality of some of what you do need. Buy good quality that will last and you won't regret it. That may mean a powder scale of one company, measure of another, etc.

[Handloader109]

If you are only doing rifle, get a single stage and learn on it. Wife bought me the kit you mentioned for Christmas last year. Have done a couple of thousand 9mm and some 243 and 762x39. It does really teach you reloading and what works. Just got a xl650 in trade a couple of weeks ago. I will use for 9mm, have dies and changeover kit for 223 which I probably won't use it for. I don't know if I would have wanted to jump straight to a progressive. A LOT of things going on and a person new to reloading will make mistakes. Heck I frustrated myself trying to set it up and I knew what I needed to do. You can ALWAYS sell the Lee later if you want to jump to a 550 or 650.

[OuchHot!]

It has been a while but I used to shoot 5.56/.223 competitively and loaded tens of thousands of rounds on a pair of presses. I used the rcbs primer pocket swedge successfully but others seemed very happy with the Dillon. I trimmed and sized on a cheap lee single station press using the Dillon trimmer/sizer and a vacuum cleaner to pick up the little brass shards. I then had to inside bevel the mouth as the Dillon trimmer did leave a burr. A friend used the graco unit and it was superior. There are other options as well. My case lube was lee case lube dissolved in water and applied to bulk cases as a wash. After this stage, the brass was tumbled to get some of the wax/lube off and loading went to a Rock chucker. I did not have to trim but every 4-5 loadings and while I was loading hot, the chambers were well made (wylde) and probably limited case stretch. Today, I would use a lee classic turret to finish each round after the size/trim thing. I was never comfortable with lubed cases on a progressive but many (most?) do it that way. I generally prepared a bucket full of brass through the trim/size stage at a time. That took a while!

[beroen]

I need some help making a list please.

I am going to get this http://www.midwayusa.com/product/423081/lee-challenger-breech-lock-single-stage-press-anniversary-kit

Does a zip trim come with the cutting tool head to use these? http://leeprecision.com/gage-holder-300-savage.html

I know the kit has the hand tool but I don't want to bring my drill home from work a lot..

.Dies
.Digital scale
.Loading blocks
.extra breech lock bushings?
.Good first type of bullets?

[EDG]

The essence of good reloading is having exactly what is needed to do the job and then using the stuff correctly.
Speed rarely accounts for much.

Kits are not usually very good. They just make you think you will have all you want and need.
Much of that Lee kit is not very good to just junk.
You will find the best hand loaders are the best scroungers and they usually buy the best item for a specific job.

The Lee classic cast press is very good
The Lee powder scale is ****. It has poor dampening and takes forever to quit oscillating. I inherited 2 neither are used.
You do not want a digital scale to weigh powder. When adding powder grain by grain to a pan the digitals do not respond.
Get a good triple poise scale like a 505 or the drum type poise 510 , both by RCBS.

The Lee measure is not very good. But the Lee dipper set is excellent for small lots
Buy a better measure. Even then you will not like it if you use extruded powders so you may resort to weighing each load. hence the digitals scale are not so good for trickled loads. A RCBS Uniflow can be found used at decent prices. ebay can be your friend.

One of the most versatile affordable and repeatable trimmers is the Forster. Used can be good here.

Get a Wilson or a RCBS deburring tool

I like RCBS dies because they are very commonly available used at great prices and they are quality dies with the best customer support in the world.
Redding and Forster are also very good. There are many lesser brands that work ok but why bother for a few $$$ savings. I hate the lock rings on Lee dies. Lee often designs unique features in an attempt to differentiate his products in the market place. The lock rings are **** and only fool the newbies.

There are a number of decent loading blocks. I like the old Flambeau Twin 60 the best. They are sort of a cult item now and bring ridiculous prices. I think MTM also makes a pretty good one.

Breech lock bushings - a good idea that is about 50 years too late. They are too expensive for me to put on all of my dies.

Good bullets for the .300 Savage? Remington, Speer, Hornady, Sierra in any order you like. Plain old RN bullets work fine on white tails. Watch the magazine length with long pointy bullets.

[nicholst55]

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/3086

Price:
$101.99Prices include shipping!





The BEST $100 I ever spent, too!

[beroen]

Ok then what about these kits?

http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=RC09357&src=ppj&utm_source=pj&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=43737

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/828368/rcbs-reloader-special-5-explorer-plus-single-stage-press-kit

And what's the deal with 1 1/4" dies vs standard 7/8"

[r1kk1]

I don't care much for kits.

I like the RCBS 10-10 scale because of the capacity. I also have an old Dillon terminator that I use. I use Wilson/CH4D trimmer. Presses that are single stage are from Forster, RCBS, CH4D and Redding. I use die sets from everyone but a couple of Lee's. I shoot quite a few obsolete and wildcat stuff and those dies are mainly CH4D, RCBS, and Hornady. I buy everyone’s reloading book and they come in handy for specific condom bullets or oddball cartridges. Powder measure are down to three - Dillon for the 550, JDS Quick Measure and RCBS ChargeMaster. The last two handle any powder I've tried with no problems.

A colorful bench but has items I wanted, liked, and kept.

This was NOT an overnight purchase but spans almost four decades. I like certain hinges from certain companies and not any company can cover everything I load for.

A single stage is a great press to have. I've formed countless thousands of brass over the years.

take care

r1kk1

[beroen]

Who likes the lee auto disk?

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Don't buy a kit, make a list of individual components after taking the time to investigate and ask questions. I suggest if you're going single stage, to start with the Lee Classic Cast single stage. Darn fine press and you can't beat it for a lot more money.

The Lee Pro Auto Disk is a good powder measure for ball type powders, such as pistol powders and .223/BLC2 type powder. Not so great on stick powders like IMR4895. An RCBS Uniflow or Hornady LNL powder measure would be better for stick powders.

As far as a scale goes, Dillon, Hornady and RCBS all make good scales. The Lee one works, but not much fun to use. You'll need a powder scale, a powder measure, good die set, powder funnel, a primer swage (for military crimped primers), a trimmer (rifle, not pistol), primer seater and perhaps a couple hardwood blocks drilled to hold cases.

Were I you, I would reload rifle cartridges first on the single stage and learn how they reload. Pistol cases, unlike rifle, generally don't need trimming, so you can do them in "one pass" as it were. I learned to reload rifle first on a single stage, then started reloading pistol on a progressive right from the start. Rifle needs two passes through the progressive, one to size (and possibly trim), one to build a cartridge.

Also, before you buy a progressive, take a hard look at how much you are shooting and how much you want to shoot. Doesn't do you any good to buy an expensive progressive, then not have any money left to buy components to make cartridges. Another good alternative to a progressive is a auto advance turret press like the Lee Classic Turret. Very well made, can load over 200 (250 average) cartridges an hour and it's very inexpensive to add a caliber for.

The progressives are wonderful if you have lots of money, but little time or you need to make lots of cartridges fast because you're competing. But for the average shooter, they can be a bit expensive to setup if one is just getting started. You spend all your money on the progressive, then have little money for other tools you need and components, so the progressive just sits there gathering dust.

[jeff423]

If money is not an issue get the 650, you will not regret it.

[Vinne]

Who likes the lee auto disk?

I do...used it for many years!! It is a great powder measure for pistol powders and with the double disk set you can load heavy magnums. If you do any rifle reloading, get the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. Very accurate and the powder shut-off is great when swapping powders and you can't beat the price.

[Bayou52]

I think some good advice for a starting reloader is to buy the basic stuff - a decent single stage press, scale, powder measure, dies and incidentals like loading blocks, powder funnel, etc. A set of calipers for measuring case lengths, and something to trim with. Lee makes an inexpensive trim tool that chucks into a drill and trims from there, etc.

Rest assured that you want to start small. No matter what equipment you buy to start with, chances are you will like some pieces of equipment and dislike others. You will use some, and put others on the side never to be touched again, or perhaps even resold.

The key here is to get some basic equipment and to build on your reloading learning curve. Get some experience, move to different pieces of equipment at different points in time as you see fit. It is a hobby after all - your equipment will change with your skill level. The "buy it once and forever" principle will be more of an exception than the rule.

Happy Reloading.....

Bayou

[beroen]

Hand priming vs press priming. Is there much difference in accuracy in a finished load?

[M-Tecs]

Hand priming vs press priming. Is there much difference in accuracy in a finished load?

No...

[beroen]

What is everyone's favored hand primer?

[jmort]

Auto Prime. No longer made, but works real good. Have a fleet of them.

[Bayou52]

What is everyone's favored hand primer?

I have 2 favorite hand primers, and both of them are no longer in production. First is the RCBS Posi-Prime that uses standard shellholders. It works great.

The second is the old style Llee handheld primers with the screw-in shellholders. These shellholders are not standard, but were specific to the tool. This tool, like the Posi-Prime, is no longer in production. It also works great.

I bet there are quite a few newer/younger reloaders who have never even heard of theese tools.....

Below is a pic of my Posi-Prime. It looks almost new even though it has been out of production for about 25 years.....

Bayou52

117613

[beroen]

Do you have to load the posi prime each time Or does it contain a tube?

[beroen]

Auto Prime. No longer made, but works real good. Have a fleet of them.
How does the auto prime XR compare?

Auto Prime. No longer made, but works real good. Have a fleet of them.

[jmort]

Lee made it "safer" so primer feeding is not as reliable. I would get the Lee Precision Ergo Prime over the XR. I have the Ergo for a few months and it works just fine. The K&M priming tool is really nice, but it is a single primer set-up. Priming off the press works for me, but the Lee Ram Prime is a good option that I use as well.

http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/primer-seater-tools/primer-deluxe.html

[r1kk1]

http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/primer-seater-tools/primer-deluxe.html

That's what I use for some stuff and will open your eyes to rim thicknesses and primer heights before installing primers.

Great tool jmortimer!

Love mine!

r1kk1

[beroen]

I have 2 favorite hand primers, and both of them are no longer in production. First is the RCBS Posi-Prime that uses standard shellholders. It works great.

The second is the old style Llee handheld primers with the screw-in shellholders. These shellholders are not standard, but were specific to the tool. This tool, like the Posi-Prime, is no longer in production. It also works great.

I bet there are quite a few newer/younger reloaders who have never even heard of theese tools.....

Below is a pic of my Posi-Prime. It looks almost new even though it has been out of production for about 25 years.....

Bayou52

117613
So the posi prime will use the shell holders that work with the presses? And its fairly easy to pick the primers up and put into it?

[Moonie]

How does the auto prime XR compare?

I have had the old round Lee primer (worked great but no longer available) and the XR and the Ergo. My preference between the two available now from Lee is without a doubt the Ergo. With the XR you prime with your thumb, with the Ergo you prime with the other 4 fingers, it seems more comfortable for priming a large amount of cases.

[beroen]

I picked up a posi prime off eBay for $30
I kept it to myself because i know Bayou wants another one 😉. I wish it was a chrome one!

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/29/16902fb53b80cfe9edaca4ac7f953b16.jpg



So what's the real deal with DIE'S. is it worth it to buy rcbs or dillon?
I will be reloading for accuracy as well as savings so I want dies that will grow with my reloading skill

And what is the deal with factory crimp dies do some guys not crimp there ammo?

The die sets seem to not include the crimp dies?

What is the deal?

Thanks guys

[Bayou52]

I picked up a posi prime off eBay for $30
I kept it to myself because i know Bayou wants another one . I wish it was a chrome one!

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/29/16902fb53b80cfe9edaca4ac7f953b16.jpg



So what's the real deal with DIE'S. is it worth it to buy rcbs or dillon?
I will be reloading for accuracy as well as savings so I want dies that will grow with my reloading skill

And what is the deal with factory crimp dies do some guys not crimp there ammo?

The die sets seem to not include the crimp dies?

What is the deal?

Thanks guys

Good buy, beroen -

You got a nice Posi-Prime. I was actually watching the bids (all 2 of them) for your Posi-Prime, but I did not bid on this one. If you have any questions on using it, feel free to PM me if you wish.

Regarding your question on dies, I buy RCBS dies due to their stellar customer service - no questions asked. Doesn't matter if you buy new or used, it's a no BS policy - they stand behind their products for life - no receipts, no docs, no questions. I can't tell you how many parts they've sent me over the years at no cost, not even for shipping.

I do, however, buy Lee Factory Crimp Dies as RCBS do not make these. I use them for all calibers, and they work great. There will be differences of opinion on this, but not all cartridges require crimping. There's more than enough neck tension in my 30-06 Garand rounds to securely hold the bullet until full ignition of powder, for example. On the other hand, my magnum pistol rounds get a heavy crimp. Lee FCDs do a heautiful crimp.

Bayou52

[beroen]

You know it's funny I thought I bid $30 but I got it for 25.95 lol!

Ok does crimping affect head spacing?

Let's say I load a batch of match grade 5.56 with some good sierra bullets and I factory crimp...

Then I load another batch later how do I keep the crimp consistent in the batches?

Thank you for the help

[Bayou52]

You know it's funny I thought I bid $30 but I got it for 25.95 lol!

Ok does crimping affect head spacing?

Let's say I load a batch of match grade 5.56 with some good sierra bullets and I factory crimp...

Then I load another batch later how do I keep the crimp consistent in the batches?

Thank you for the help

You simply keep the lock nut in the same place on the die and the setting won't change. It's very easy to use, and with a small amount of practice, you'll get consistent crimps....

Bayou52

[Wayne Smith]

Once you get your dies adjusted and the lock nuts locked down you won't have any changes. Getting them adjusted initially is the challenge. They, if you crimp, making sure all your cases are the same length so the crimp will be the same. The difference is in case length, not in the die, when your crimps are different.

[beroen]

Do most older dies have a set screw? that's why I asked I don't see them on older dies and I don't mean ancient just rcbs older dies

[Bayou52]

Do most older dies have a set screw? that's why I asked I don't see them on older dies and I don't mean ancient just rcbs older dies


Yes, both current and older RCBS dies have a set screw in the lock nut. I was given an older Redding die that has a set screw in the locknut.

Newer Lee dies do not- they have an o-ring in the lock nut that keeps the lock nut firm. As I indicated in a prior post, I purchase only RCBS dies due to their stellar customer service. I have numeerous Lee FCDs, as these are not made by RCBS.

Bayou52

[sparky508]

Ok does crimping affect head spacing?





For the most part no, bottle neck cartridges, such as the .223 head space off of the shoulder, regardless of how much crimp you use.

straight walled pistol cases that head space off of the case mouth, such as the 45ACP, can be made to head space deeper then intended with an exaggerated taper crimp.

[beroen]

Thanks sparky that makes sense I didn't know if roll crimping tended to pull the bullet down with it or anything. The pistol chamber thing makes total sense also.

[David2011]

Beroen,

You asked a lot of questions and got a lot of good answers. I've had a 550 for over 20 years and a 650 for 7 years. I've tried most of the primer pocket swagers and reamers on the market. I'll start with the primer pocket tools. This ended up being kind of long but I hope worthwhile.

Dillon- great but not the only game in town. Very fast if rigged up to lift the shell automatically. Lots of YouTube videos available to demonstrate. Will not damage the case if set up correctly. Will bend the rod if set too tight, especially the small primer rod.

RCBS press mounted tool- Relatively inexpensive, does about the same quality job as the Dillon ant a tiny fraction of the speed. Fine for 20 or even 100 cases of occasional use but not good for volume production.

Lee chamfer tool - Terrible for removing crimps; poor for case mouth chamfering

Lyman primer pocket reamer - not very effective. Not sharp.

Hornady primer pocket reamers - Second in line behind the Dillon Super Swage for ease of use. IMO, gives the best quality job. Will not cut too deeply as the end that bottoms out in the primer pocket does not cut. Available with an aggressively knurled aluminum handle which is OK for low volume use but poor for high volume (referring to the handle). The threads fit the Lyman case prep station which is a nice tool and less expensive than most prep stations. Once motorized, the Lyman primer pocket reamers are fast and easy to use. You can feel when they have done their job. The Lyman prep station turns about 100 rpm and it takes 1-1/2 to 3 revolutions to cut the crimps away. Primer insertion is easily the smoothest when using the Hornady reamers.

Countersink tool - effective and inexpensive. There is a huge difference between the cheap ones and a quality tool like a Hansen. Fast but requires care to not over-cut the crimp. Smooth primer insertion, approaching the Hornady's smoothness.

Pocketknife or similar sharp object - Works. Slow, inconsistent, better than nothing. Better than the Lee chamfer tool.

Drill bit - No! It will grab, yank the case out of your hand or overcut and ruin the primer pocket.

Overall winners - The Dillon is the fastest but the Hornady driven by a motor is a good second and the best job. Just my opinion but based on lots of cases.

Presses:

I have several, like most members here. I also think everyone needs a good single stage press. I load my hunting and target rounds on the single stage as well as big bore handgun rounds. If I'm not loading more than 100 rounds I find it faster to set up the single stage and be done with it than to try to set up a Dillon for a short run. If I'm loading more than 100 rounds, it's usually several hundred rounds.

I have to offer a different pinion from Wayne on accuracy. Your accuracy needs to fit the task. IMO, it's pointless to attempt 1/2 MOA accuracy if your shots are on whitetail at 40 yards in a thickly wooded area like Pennsylvania or East Texas. OTOH, it's unethical to take 400+ yard shots on living creatures if your best accuracy at 100 yards is only 2". I shoot USPSA matches and consider the speed of reloading and reliable function to be far more important than pinpoint accuracy for that type of shooting. I want every advantage I can get but am satisfied with 1-1/2" at 25 yards. The load I use for USPSA has been the same for years because it has adequate accuracy and flawless function. I could spend a lot of time trying to get a hair better accuracy but don't think it's important enough for that application.

If you're hunting with a scoped rifle, it's worth the trouble to get reasonable accuracy. An inch or better at 100 yards is good enough for most North American big game unless you're a highly experienced long range hunter pushing the limits. If you're hunting Bambi or Porky the Pig at under 200 yards, 2 MOA is plenty good.

RCBS Rock Chucker - Good all-around press capable of producing very accurate ammunition if you do your part on the case prep and testing. I've added the Hornady LnL bushings to my RC and all of the dies I use in it. It eliminated all doubt of correctly adjusted dies when they're changed. If I need to pull a bullet I just seated, it only takes seconds to pop put the seating die, install the puller, pull the bullet and get back to loading. As I mentioned earlier, the go-to press for 100 rounds or less. I load some cartridges for the pure enjoyment of crafting accurate loads to take game or hear a far away gong ring. It may take all evening to load 20 good rounds of rifle ammunition.

Dillon 550b - IMO the most versatile progressive press available. Probably the backbone of the Dillon line. It will load most calibers of rifle and pistol cartridges. The caliber conversions are far less costly than the XL650 conversion kits. Changing calibers and primer size is relatively fast. The primer slide has to be kept very clean for reliability which isn't difficult but has to be done. Typical production with pistol rounds is 400/hour for me and a little slower for bottlenecked rifle cartridges, mostly because I slow down when loading rifle cartridges. I have conversions and toolheads from .223 to .45-70 and all of the common pistol cases from .380 to .45 Colt. EXCELLENT resale value.

Dillon XL650 - While mechanically as versatile as the 550b, the additional expense of conversion kits and toolheads make adding additional calibers more expensive. It's also a little more time consuming to change calibers than the 550b, especially if you have to change the primer size. There is a primer pocket swaging tool available from a third party that sells them on E-bay. I haven't used the product but it looks interesting. IMO, it is pointless to buy a 650 over a 550 if you don't pony up for the casefeeder. Oh, yeah, casefeeder plates can be another expense when you add a new cartridge. They come in small/large pistol and small/large/magnum rifle at $38.95 each. I love my 650 but it is not my all-around press. I have .38 Super, .40 S&W, .45ACP and .223 setups for it but normally only load .40 and .223. I load .40 to shoot in large volumes so speed is important. The XL650 will load 300 rounds in 20 minutes. If you have a helper to load the primer tubes and replenish the bullet supply it will exceed 1000 rounds/hour and easily 800/hour working alone. It's not ALL about speed. It's all about speed when shooting thousands of rounds/month as I did for several years.

Before anyone starts flaming me about the speed, go back and re-read the part about taking all evening to load 20 accurate rounds. My 6.5mm rifle will shoot groups under .400. When I load .223 for accuracy, it does well with a best group at 200 yards of .720" with Sierra Match King bullets. Just to dispel any notions of Internet Ninja accuracy claims, the same rifle with mil-spec bullets shoots 3"+ at 100 yards with the same case, primer and powder.

YMMV
David

[beroen]

Thanks Dave

I was wondering about the LNL bushings today and it was a question I was going to ask.

Good to know about the changeover on the 550vs650


Eventually I would like a 550 or 650 for pistol and 5.56 as I have gotten into steel matches and going to do some USPSA matches also.

For now I think my budget is going to allow a good single I picked up a NIB special 5 and eventually a redding turret. Who knows it may fill my needs just fine but with all the other stuff needed besides a press it's going to be a while.


I have some more questions

Who likes the RCBS quick change powder measure ?

Is there any inexpensive digital scales that anyone recommends?
It sounds like most do not work very well
I want to use it in conjunction with a beam scale.
What's a good starter beam scale?

Lee powder dippers for plinking ammo?

How long does the RCBS charge master take to dilly out powder let's say a 21g and 42g charge?

It looks like you can buy the RCBS digital scale then add the charge master later is the scale alone a good one?

Pistol case trimming do they even stretch or it it just good to trim them all to length for accuracy?

[Bayou52]

"What's a good starter beam scale?"

I've been using the same RCBS 5-0-5 beam scale for decades. Checkweights reveal that the scale's accuracy is spot on - as accurate now as when Jimmy Carter was in the WH....

Bayou52

[David2011]

Thanks Dave

I was wondering about the LNL bushings today and it was a question I was going to ask.

Good to know about the changeover on the 550vs650


Eventually I would like a 550 or 650 for pistol and 5.56 as I have gotten into steel matches and going to do some USPSA matches also.

For now I think my budget is going to allow a good single I picked up a NIB special 5 and eventually a redding turret. Who knows it may fill my needs just fine but with all the other stuff needed besides a press it's going to be a while.


I have some more questions

Who likes the RCBS quick change powder measure ?

Is there any inexpensive digital scales that anyone recommends?
It sounds like most do not work very well
I want to use it in conjunction with a beam scale.
What's a good starter beam scale?

Lee powder dippers for plinking ammo?

How long does the RCBS charge master take to dilly out powder let's say a 21g and 42g charge?

It looks like you can buy the RCBS digital scale then add the charge master later is the scale alone a good one?

Pistol case trimming do they even stretch or it it just good to trim them all to length for accuracy?

Just my opinions:

I have an RCBS but am not much of a fan of it. My very old Saeco and the Dillon powder measures are more consistent unless measuring something like Win 748 that meters well in any measure.

Not a fan of low end electronic scales. The RCBS are "moderately" priced and much more sensitive when trickling than the low end scales.

Most pistol cases never need trimming. Some people trim them before the first use to assure more consistent crimps but most pistol cases either don't stretch or stretch jus a few thou and stabilize. I have never trimmed a pistol case. I have never seen a .45 ACP case that was over SAAMI spec. My .45 Colt loads are hot and they don't stretch.

David

[beroen]

Thanks Dave.



Is there any reason you can't de'prime and resize then clean your brass?


I see 8 pounds of powder Is a good deal but how much is hazmat charges?

Where do you guys buy your powder?

[OuchHot!]

Just a data point on one of your questions. I have a RCBS Charge Master. Throwing a 60gr charge of long logs will take 17-18sec from scratch with stock trim settings. (You can adjust the electronics by getting into the software menu....not recommended, generally) If you throw roughly 55g with any powder measure and punch "go" the Charge Master will top it up in just a few seconds. If you are doing 1k 7mm mag it is a useful step! Throwing 25gr of ball powder takes about 12sec, but why bother! The powder measure is faster and accurate enough!

[beroen]

What is needed for the lee auto disk pro obviously the "auto disk pro" but I am not sure do I need the "riser" and the "powder through expanding die" or can i just use the auto disk with just the powder through expanding die.

This will be on a redding T7 turret press

[Moonie]

What is needed for the lee auto disk pro obviously the "auto disk pro" but I am not sure do I need the "riser" and the "powder through expanding die" or can i just use the auto disk with just the powder through expanding die.

This will be on a redding T7 turret press

The riser is not required, it can make things easier but it isn't required. I personally don't have one but I do have the swivel adapter on all of mine.