Lee 6 cavity mold cutting technique

[jonk]

So riddle me this...

I've got a number of Lee 6 bangers. Never was overly impressed; never could get enough leverage on the cutter handle to cut the sprues until the lead was REALLY hot. What always seemed to happen was, I'd move the cutter handle and it would wedge open the sprue cutter perhaps 1/5" and stop, and I'd have to beat on the sprue plate with a dowel anyhow.

So... I just got one of their .520 6 cavity molds (which I think was a large custom run anyhow) and noted that the handle seemed loose... but then something magical happened.

Normally when I operate the cutter, the handle stops about 10 degrees further out from the sprue plate than it was at rest.

With this mold, with a clunk, the handle rotated out a full 90 degrees, perpendicular to the sprue plate, allowing the cam shape of the cutter handle to... actually cam over!

So: question is, what is your experience with how these work? Anyone care to post a pic of their mold in closed and cut positions?

[tazman]

That is unlike any of the Lee molds I have. Sounds like a good idea.

[tomme boy]

They just recently changed the cam on the six cavities. It has received high marks from what I hear. The main problem is the metal used.

[Springfield]

I have found noting wrong with the 30 or so LEE 6 cavs I have, you just need to run them hot. Why is it guys resist running their mould hot when it works so much better that way?

[tazman]

I have found noting wrong with the 30 or so LEE 6 cavs I have, you just need to run them hot. Why is it guys resist running their mould hot when it works so much better that way?

Not so much a case of not running them hot, but of starting to pour too soon while the mold is cool. Or not pre-heating the mold at all.

[runfiverun]

a trick to the 6 cavity's is to not use all 6 of them at first start out with one-two and add one more as you go untill everything is running smoothly.
i have an 11 cavity mold cut on a LEE 6 cav. mold block,,,, trust me, even when it's hot you want to start out with just the first 3-4 cavity's. [just to make dang sure]

[Cmm_3940]

I had this problem when I started using the Lee 6-bangers. Until the mold heats up, the sprue instantly freezes solid and is hard to cut. Now I put the mold on a hot plate set to medium-high at the same time I plug my pot in. The sprues cut effortlessly from the start and fall right off.

[tazman]

Lately I have been deliberately getting things hotter than I need to at the start so there are no issues with sprue cutting before I turn down the temp. Sometimes I have to wait for the sprue to cool for a while on the first cut or 2. If that is the case, the first set of boolits are too frosty to use. Things cool off quickly though. Never need to throw back more than the first set.
This avoids all sprue cutting problems for me.
I used to use the 2 or 3 cavities till things got warmed up but that seemed tedious and inefficient to me.

[deathdragon147]

I actually bought a replacement cam and lever arm from a guy on the forum. It is all on machined al part. Works flawless

[TXGunNut]

Hot plate is a big help with Lee 6-bangers (and my NOE 4-5 cav) moulds. Give the mould time to get hot all the way thru, including the sprue plate. When I was heating my moulds on top of the pot I would position them sprue plate down to insure the sprue didn't harden prematurely. And yes, those Lee 6-bangers seem to like it hot & fast. I have to keep a wet sock around in case I get carried away. ;-)