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View Full Version : Some help & advice needed regarding H & A 357 Handi Rifle & Powders / Loads



bedbugbilly
09-04-2014, 01:31 PM
I recently got a .357 Handi-Rifle (which I greatly enjoy). My main experience is in reloading 38 spl. and I usually use Bulls Eye. So far in the rifle, I've shot standard 38 spl reloads - SPP - 3.5 gr of BE with my cast 158 gr. RN from my Lyman 358311 mold. It shot pretty decent the first time out with that load but I know there is room for improvement (for me and my ability - I'm "old" what can I say?). ;-)

I've never fooled with .357 Mag. as I mainly do lighter 38 spl plinking/target loads. I've got some .357 brass on the way though and I'd like to load and try that in the Handi.

So . . . my question is in regards to "powders" and loading for the Handi with a rifle length barrel.

I was able to get some Red Dot (figured I'd use it in my 38 pistol loads if I ran out of Bulls Eye). I also know that Red Dot is a "fast" powder - usually listed below Bulls Eye and 700X. I found some loading data on Alliant's site but only for the 38 spl and 38 spl. +P.

38 Spl.
158 gr. LSWC
OAL minimum of 1.44
3.4 gr. of Red Dot
793 FPS

38 Spl +P
158 gr. LSWC
OAL minimum of 1.44
3.8 gr of Red Dot
846 FPS

Being a "fast burning" powder - used in a rifle, am I correct that the burning of the powder is going to take place completely near the very end of the breech and thus cause a spike in pressure upon ignition as opposed to a slower powder that will continue to burn and increase pressure slower as the bullet travels to the muzzle?

If so . . . is Red Dot a bad idea? . . . as opposed to using a slower burning powder such as Unique?

Does anyone use Red Dot in a 357 load for their Handi? If so, as much as I hate to ask for loading data - what is a minimum/maximum grain weight that should be used in a 357 load for a rifle using a 158 gr RN boolit with a small pistol primer?

I'm tumble loading my cast bullets in Alox/Paste Wax which works well in my pistols. I'm not looking to "push" the 357 loads for the Handi as I don't want to have a leading problem.
I'm also thinking that if I can get the slug closer to the bore by using the longer 357 casing, it will help with improving the accuracy. I don't have any desire to ream the chamber and go to the 357 Max - I don't hunt anymore and this rifle is mainly to play with plinking and maybe a woodchuck once in a while.

Above all, I don't want to do something that will be "unsafe" in terms of the powder used - with the shortages and having to "make do" with what you can get - I know that I have seen some references to using Red Dot for rifle cartridges. I do have some Unique on hand but I haven't looked yet for data on that - my Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook does not list any data for Unique with the 158 gr 358311 cast boolit.

Powder supply is "iffy" in my area - I just happened to "luck out" and hit the LGS one day when they got some in so was able to get some Red Dot and Unique. If there are any suggestions for better powders to try, I can see if I can get them but it will all depend on the day I go to the LGS and what they have at the time.

Also a question on "primers". All I have on hand is standard small pistol primers (CCI). When loading the 357 Mag cartridge - is it really necessary to use a "Mag primer"? Or, does that depend on the type of powder you are loading - i.e. some powders harder to ignite than others? Or, would there be any noticeable difference in accuracy between two cartridges, everything being equal but with one having a standard primer and the other having a magnum primer?

As far as bullets go - would there be any noticeable difference in accuracy if I went with a heavier boolit - say a 200 gr. over the 160 gr.? Right now, I have molds for .358 boolits - 105 gr (SWC), 121 gr (RN), 148 gr (WC) and 158 gr. (RN, SWC) but would consider getting a mold for a heavier boolit down the road.

Any advice or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

DeanWinchester
09-04-2014, 01:51 PM
I've only just begun with mine, but you're probably gonna want to invest in a larger boolit. Think, HEAVY. 200g or so. Our rifles have mammoth throats. You wan the boolit out there as far as you can feasibly get it.

So far my best has been with an RCBS-35-200 and of all things, 4198 powder and a small rifle primer.

Which receiver do you have? If you have the SB-2 you can get away with things the .357 should not be doing. I've already run 12.0g of 2400 under the 200g boolit. Which, by pistols standards would be a pretty stout load. It's a cat sneeze from my SB-2.

I have another Lyman 200g mold on the way. I know many folks give up and ream the chamber to .357 Maximum to get cast boolits to shoot but given my results on just my first try, I'm not inclined to do it. I believe I can get satisfactory performance from the magnum chamber.


There's also an article I just read where one person has been using Maximum data in Magnum cases by seating the boolits WAAAAY out there. Only enough in the case to hold it straight. Not sure how far I will push mine. I have a new chronograph on it's way so time will tell.

Please join my thread and share any and all results you come up with. Same goes for anyone else with the .357 Handi http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?251645-My-357-H-amp-R

357Mag
09-04-2014, 05:28 PM
BBB -

Howdy!

If your .357Mag SB2 was chambered anything like my .357Max " Ultra Rifle ", you'll note significant " freebore ".
In my rifle, I could not even get 200's to reach the rifling, w/o also having next to nothing left inside the case' neck.

As mentioned by DeanW above.... you'll probably be best served by going heavy on boolit wt.

FWIW -
In my .35 cal " carbines " ( 22" .357AutoMag, Marlin 1894SC .357Mag; .357Max H & R SB2 ) WW296 powder worked out best.
Loads were shot w/ Magnum primers in the SB2 & the Marlin. I used SR primers in AutoMag carbine.

WW296 worked best ( my guns, my loads ) under boolit & bullet wt's of 150 - 180gr.



With regards,
357Mag

bedbugbilly
09-04-2014, 07:38 PM
Dean - I've been following your thread with great interest and have really enjoyed it.

My .357 Handi is on the SB-1 frame. When I got it I discussed that with the LGS and when they checked, that's the only frame they could find that the 357 is currently being made on? At least that's what their distributor told them. I decided to get the .357 just to have it to play with and see how well I could get one to shoot since I'm set up for re-loading/casting for my 38s.

My 357 brass came today so I'll keep looking for data and hopefully can get a few sample rounds to try loaded up tomorrow. I'm hoping to get to the LGS tomorrow and will check and see what I can find on their shelves as far as powder. I'll work with the boolits I have molds for now but I kind of figured that a heavier slug would work better.

I have only had a chance to shoot it once but really enjoyed it. I had an older scope I had laying around put on it and bore sighted - I don't have a bench to shoot it off of so really need to come up with something that I can get a consistent rest on.

I'll keep you posted on how things are going with it. I greatly appreciate the information as I'm sort of stumbling my way through this - not used to shooting cartridge rifles! :-)

DeanWinchester
09-04-2014, 08:13 PM
Play with seating depth. Seat them long as you can. Pressures may be a touch lower but the closer you get to the rifling the better.

gpidaho
09-05-2014, 11:24 AM
Be aware that just because SB-2 is stamped on the barrel the frame is still most likely SB-1 I was momentarily excited to find my new .357 Handi to be SB-2 Then with closer inspection found the frame stamped .357, 44mag and shotgun only. As Dean mentioned the freebore on these .357s is very long and long heavy bullets will most likely give gest results. Heres a repeat from another thread that sheds some light. http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/index.php?cid=658& will give you a good idea what we are dealing with. Good luck with yours, I really enjoy mine. GP