Simple INEXPENSIVE Annealing Setup

[DoctorBill]

PLEASE NOTE - This post has been edited because the Picture Hosting Web Site changed some links - so things may not jive well WORDS TO PICTURES. I hope you can follow it.

Been annealing with Pliers or by hand (with large Rifle cases) and dropping the cases in
water to keep the base from getting hot.

I was lusting after some better way to anneal and remembered some of the homemade
devices here and on Youtube, so I visited the AMAZON electric motor section.

They sell small 12v gear reduction motors from China for next to nothing.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/184-3056815-6293730?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Hossen+DC+Motors
...so I got two of them plus a 12v PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) speed controller for $11.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-12V-40V-Electric-Controller-Stepless/dp/B00CGXJSNY/ref=pd_tcs_subst_hi_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZD10TD257ESZN8QD2Y2
You can also order DIRECT from China for 30% of the above price - just takes 2 weeks to get here.

Decided to make it adaptable from Pistol Brass up to large Rifle Brass (.577-450 Martini Henry Brass)

Made a flat topped spindle on my Mini-Lathe out of Aluminum Rod.

Here is what I have - it works fine with a Butane Torch and a pair of long Forceps.
The water filled Steel Can top is held in place by the circular magnet and the water
is filled up far enough to protect the Brass Base Portion of the Cartridge.

The Entire Device - I use a Car Battery Charger (Cheap in Garage Sales) to run it.
https://i.postimg.cc/wvTXsMJZ/Finished-Unit-1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/65BJhcCs/Annealing-Tool-A.jpg

Here it is in my Bench Vice gripped very lightly. I plan to make a wood or plastic
holder for it. The "Center Spot" tells me where to place the Brass Case....

https://i.postimg.cc/tT4dQWC1/Entire-Unit.jpg

Here is the device with a Magtech .44 Magnum Brass Case ready to be heated with
a Butane Torch. The water keeps the base below 600° F to protect it.
Just set the case on the center spot while it is running and go for it !

http://s19.postimg.org/hb8l7hmsj/Annealing_a_44_Mag.jpg

You can take it out (hot) when done (with a forceps) and toss into water or
just wait a few seconds and it cools fast in place.

Maybe this will encourage someone to make one or a variation on it.

DoctorBill

PS - The Aluminum Rod could be drilled out with a 15/64 Drill and honed
(emery cloth on a round wood stick) to the exact diameter of the motor shaft
(5.95 mm) so it fits fairly tightly w/o a set screw. No torque is needed here !
Make the top flat and use Super Glue to stick the circular magnet (found in
most Hardware Stores or Harbor Freight) to it. This allows you to use ANY
size steel can for the water holding top portion.
Just make sure everything is centered and FLAT.

[prsman23]

Very cool. I'll try it out this week!

[slim1836]

I mounted a deep socket on top of a 12 volt automotive window motor, and hinged it in order to tip it over to release shell casing into a pot of water. Set my casing into the socket and aimed a propane burner toward the bottle neck portion of the casing. In subdued lighting, when I see the color change, I dump it in the pot of water and put another casing in the socket and repeat the process.

Works well enough for me and cost me nada to make.

Slim

[Hardcast416taylor]

A socket of approximate rim size set in a socket extension mounted in a cordless drill chuck. When case is done being heated just tip it over into a pot of water.Robert

[daengmei]

McGiver clones? :mrgreen: I learn so much here. Thanks all.

[prs]

For fast work with high volume of cases, box the end of a 4' section of 1" C channel. Lay this "trough" on your work bench and clamp a block of wood on each side to form a guide so you can pull the channel in a straight line. Using wood "V" blocks, lay a couple of propane soldering torches on the table so that the flame will be at neck height and the two flames converge. Pour a little water in your trough, add the brass, light the torches and slowly pull the trough and the brass necks through the blue flame.

prs

[Motor]

A socket of approximate rim size set in a socket extension mounted in a cordless drill chuck. When case is done being heated just tip it over into a pot of water.Robert

This is my method also but I AIR cool not water quench. There is no need to water quench.

If done correctly its almost impossible (unless by total idiot) to anneal too far down the case. Once the heat is removed there is not enough left over to run down the case and anneal the head.

Annealing is a science and most of us have no way to precisely do it. Most very likely do a little more than needed (makes neck softer than required) but after being sized one or 2 more times it gets back to normal.

I got around 20, neck only sizing, cycles on my LC 7.62x51 brass. Annealing makes this possible.

[troyboy]

I do the same as Robert. Thanks for the idea Doc

[EDG]

I use a drill to power my case spinner for annealing brass. It takes about 4 seconds for most cases but to do it that fast requires 150 to 200 RPM. This insures the case is spun fast enough to evenly head the neck rapidly.

[DoctorBill]

I did exactly that same thing with a socket and small motor doo dad from a rock tumbler.

Know a fellow who uses a drill and a wire that goes thru the primer hole - same idea.

Wanted to make it a bit more sophisticated - didn't NEED to do it, but ***....one needs
projects to do and keep one's self from going bonkers.....and it was fun.

Whatever floats your boat, different strokes for different folks, etc.

Just have fun ! The alternative will come all too soon enough ! The Dirt Nap.....

DoctorBill

[DoctorBill]

Well, here it is - dirt simple.

http://s19.postimg.org/tiv7exfoj/Finished_Unit_1.jpg

The Geared reduction Motor Unit is clamped to a piece of Aluminum
Stair Step Molding I picked up at a scrap metal yard (a favorite haunt)
mounted to a piece of 4x4 I had laying around.
I run it from an old 12v Car Battery I keep on my work bench as a
good 12 volt power supply.

When the case is done annealing, I pick it up with the forceps at the
bottom of the photo and toss it into the bowl of water on the left.

The unit does not have to be robust, in fact the lighter the better to me.
The one Geared Reduction Motor cost $14 on Amazon, and all the rest
was stuff laying around my shop.

For what it's worth....

DoctorBill